Showcasing all Iowa has to offer, including Award-winning wines
By Gerald Dlubala
Covered Bridges Winery started on 75 picturesque acres in Winterset, Iowa, in Madison County. Yes, that Madison County, of The Bridges of Madison County movie fame, and the birthplace of John Wayne. They have since expanded to another 12 acres where the winery now sits.
Kevin and Jean Fifo and their friends, Kevin and Rose Boyle, purchased the property in 2002.
“We were all living in the suburbs of Des Moines,” said Fifo. “Kevin Boyle grew up on a farm in north central Missouri. At the time I traveled for a living but were looking to get out of the hustle and bustle of city life. We looked at properties and found 75 acres in Winterset, about 30 minutes southwest of Des Moines. We contacted the Boyles and asked if they wanted to buy half and start a winery. They were on board, so we moved into the farmhouse on the property, even though we really wanted to build. There were 50 acres of trees and 15 acres in the Conservation Reserve Program (CRP), along with a small farm pond. The acreage was reasonably clear, but we had to buy out of the CRP contract. Besides that, going through it and preparing it for planting was a straightforward process. The first grapes went in the ground in 2004, and our first commercial harvest was 2008.”
Getting Started
“We spent the first eight years out on the farm with the winery housed in an old, converted pole shed,” said Fifo. Our production facility started at 800 square feet with an output of as much as 1000 cases annually. But other than the wine, there weren’t any truly good reasons to come out here. We were just a property on a dead-end gravel road. We bought the property the winery now sits on about 10 years ago, and Kevin Boyle, a furniture maker and cabinet maker by trade, designed and laid out the new building. I was a project manager by trade, and we both had done the contracting on our own homes, so I acted as the general contractor to get everyone lined up and arranged and built the building. We then opened the new tasting room and production facility in August 2016.”
“The first varietals we planted included Marechal Foch, Frontenac, La Crosse, Edelweiss, and Geneva Red,” said Fifo. “We planted a little of everything, working with other wineries and universities to get an education as to what we are getting into. We wanted to plant cold-hardy varietals that were in demand and known to produce excellent-tasting Iowa-made wines.”
Fifo told The Grapevine Magazine that they found the Geneva Red varietal to have a better tannin structure than other reds and subsequently turned out to be a good blender.
“We still use it today as an integral part of our blends,” said Fifo. “We’ve since added La Crescent and Marquette vines and will wait for spring to see what happens there. Madison County sits in a big shallow bowl and is about a half zone colder than our surrounding counties. We tried to grow Seyval grapes, but they’ve never grown well here, and Marquette has also struggled at times. We’ve restructured our Marquette vines but are still struggling with production at times.
Local Influence Resonates Throughout the Winery
“We are in Madison County, Iowa, of Bridges of Madison County fame, so we have a tourist-oriented county because of that movie and by being known as the birthplace of John Wayne,” said Fifo. “We are fortunate that the tourists are already coming to this area for those reasons, but Iowa wineries are also very much a tourism industry, so we contribute to bringing in winery tourism.”
“Sitting in the North River Valley just north of Winterset, we have one of the most outstanding views in the entire state,” said Fifo. “We have a wraparound patio to look down into the valley across farm fields with a picturesque silo. Guests really enjoy the peace and quiet that accompany those views.”
Fifo said that the prominent feature in their tasting room is a 16-foot arch-topped window overlooking the valley.
“With views like ours, building orientation was, and is, important,” said Fifo. “There are wood-finished ceramic tile floors reminiscent of our famous covered bridges. We feature local artwork in our tasting room, from quilts to photographs to pencil sketches and stained glass. All of our wall sconces are custom-made with bridge silhouettes on them. There is a powerful local influence on everything we do and produce. We’ve always been adamant about supporting locals, and it’s the foundation of everything we do. Our founding principle was to be 100% Iowa-grown and produce wines. To this day, we still are. Most of our traffic is Midwest-based, but we bring in people from all over the world because of the bridges. We are open year-round, featuring a wide variety of music, events, and local vendors. Hours vary per season, but events go on year-round. You must remain truly diverse in this business and give folks a reason to return.”
“As to available wines, we continue to feature over 20 labels available here at the winery, so there is something for everyone,” said Fifo. “Our wines go from dry to sweet, in reds and whites, and we offer some specialty wines like port-style wines and bourbon barrel-aged reds, which are currently a popular feature. A lesson I’ve learned coming up in this business is that you make sweet wines for customers and dry wines for yourself. Roughly 70% of what we sell has at least some sweetness to it, meaning anywhere from 1 1/2-3 % residual sugar, which, because of the amount of acidity we carry, are considered off-dry wines by Midwestern standards, but are extremely popular. We always rotate two dry reds and two dry whites. These are wines that I’m especially proud of because they’re all Iowa-produced, award-winning, recognized wines. We submitted 11 wines and took home seven golds from the Iowa State Fair commercial competition this past year.”
Lessons From a Winemaker’s Journey
Fifo reflected on his winemaking journey, which led him to be one of the most awarded authorities in Iowa winemaking. He mentioned three essential keys to his success, all of which he says help him continue living the winery life he loves so much.
• You need a good product. “It took us eight years to make really good wines from the hybrid grapes we grow,” said Fifo. “It’s easy to get that first bottle sold in the tasting room, but you have to earn the purchase of the second bottle.”
• You must be able to adapt. “When I first started, all winemaking was based on California wine growing techniques,” said Fifo. “And obviously, we can’t grow California grapes here, so there was a lot of learning about the different grape varietals and acidity levels involved. You can either fight it or embrace it, and we choose to adapt and embrace it.”
• You need a great venue. “You have to give your guests reasons to come back, and we do that,” said Fifo. “In addition to all of our local charm and outstanding views, our event schedule makes sure that there is always something going on here to make our guests want to come and spend time with us, whether that includes wine-related classes or events, bands, or local markets featuring local vendors that may not have a physical storefront. We do as much as we can outside. We have a 20-by-30-foot outdoor stage for music and events, weather permitting, of course. We feature solo artists, acoustic sets, and duets on our patio, and we can even move some performances indoors if necessary. We can seat 72 inside. We also offer charcuterie plates, pub-style mixes for snacks, and chocolates for wine pairing.”
Future Expectations Include Giving Back
“We’d really like to perfect our wine club program and get it up and operational no later than November of
this year for our first wine club release,” said Fifo. “Additionally, we’ve built another 40 by 60 feet of enhanced production space, which is almost completed. Our tasting program is stable, as are our event schedules. We host weddings, receptions, graduation parties, corporate events, for example. Wholesale expansion is always tough, but we’re in some local specialty restaurants that take time to educate their staff about Iowa wines. Shelf space is so hard to get, especially for locals.”
Fifo retired from his day job a couple of years ago, so he’s excited about having the time and opportunity to give back to Iowa’s wine industry. He was named Winemaker of the Year in Iowa in 2020. Additionally, he serves on the Wine Growers Association Board of Directors. He also serves on the Advisory Board at Iowa State with the Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute.
“I’ve earned a good, strong reputation for making quality dry wines,” said Fifo. “I’m immensely proud of that. I’ve presented to the Iowa Wine Growers Association at their annual conference about making dry reds in the Midwest. It’s still a hard sell. To the average person, only sweet wines are produced here in Iowa. I love changing their mind, but they won’t come to that conclusion on their own. They must be convinced. But I love collaborating with other winemakers and helping to bring up and encourage the next generation of winemakers. It’s still an agricultural industry that demands a lot of hard work, so new winemakers need encouragement to keep our industry going. Iowa winemaking is a very cooperative environment, and the best thing that could happen is for more folks here to make great Iowa wines. You want people to go to our wineries, have great times, and seek out other Iowa wineries.”
Fifo said there is a never-ending set of challenges for winery owners, from chillers and equipment that may not be working correctly to simpler things, including clogged restrooms, so an owner must be well-versed in every facet of a production and service-related business.
“It really is a great industry,” said Fifo. “We continuously meet great and wonderful people who come through our winery. We’ve also met awesome and interesting characters within the industry. But overall, we’re having a ton of fun here, and I encourage folks to seek us out along with other Iowa wineries for some great experiences and excellent wines.”
For more information on Covered Bridges Winery, including hours of operation and event schedule:
Covered Bridges Winery
2207 170th Trail
Winterset, Iowa 50273
515-729-WINE
