The Rise of Vancouver Island Wines
By Becky Garrison
Most of the attention on British Columbia (BC) wines tends to focus on the Okanagan Valley Wine Region, as this premier grapegrowing region boasts 86% of the province’s vineyard acreage. However, Vancouver Island’s ocean breezes, abundant green setting, and intimate, dedicated group of largely family-owned vineyards and wineries give this region an intimate artisanal vibe. These attributes give Vancouver Island’s vineyards and wineries a distinct alternative to the Okanagan’s grander, more established wine community.
The Island’s cooler climate and short growing season can present challenges in selecting and growing grapes designed for cooler climates. In addition, growers need to monitor their vines for the presence of botrytis. Also, the seasonal rain can lead to mold, mildew, and other related diseases if not properly addressed in time.
History of Winemaking on Vancouver Island
While European homesteaders were growing grapes for private consumption as far back as the 1800s, commercial winemaking on Vancouver Island began in the early 1920s with wines produced from loganberries by the Growers’ Wine Company in Saanich, BC.
From 1983 to 1990, the provincially funded Duncan Project evaluated about 100 grape varieties to determine which would thrive in the region, identifying Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, and Ortega (a German hybrid) as especially promising. Today, Vancouver Island is building a reputation for premium wines, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir leading the way joined by Gamay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, and a range of sparkling wines. Notably, Charme de l’Île (“charm of the island”) is a distinctive sparkling style made on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands using the Charmat method. Many producers embrace sustainable and organic practices, crafting wines that pair beautifully with the Island’s exceptional seafood, from salmon and halibut to spot prawns, oysters, Dungeness crab, and creamy clam chowder, capturing the essence of coastal BC in every glass.
Currently, the Vancouver Island GI (Geographic Indicaton) contains 321 planted acres with 22 licensed grape wineries. (Similar to AVA, a GI is a legally defined term indicating the geographical area from which wine originates.) The majority of these wineries are situated in the Cowichan Valley and Saanich Peninsula with a growing winery community in the Comox Valley.
Cowichan Valley
Home to 13 wineries, the Cowichan Valley was officially recognized as the first sub-geographical indicaton outside of the Okanagan Valley on July 10, 2020. The First Nations Salish translation of Cowichan means warm land, with the Cowichan Valley having the distinction of being the warmest area in British Columbia.
The region’s soil consists of a mixture of ancient volcanic activity, salt, and glaciers. Most wineries in the Cowichan Valley are shielded from Pacific Ocean storms by nearby mountains. The warm, dry summers and mild, moist winters make the Cowichan Valley Canada’s only “cool” maritime Mediterranean climate. The Valley records a long season of up to 1,097 growing degree days with low frost risk. This combination provides good conditions for many Vitis vinifera grape varietals that bud late and ripen early.
In 1986, an “experimental vineyard” opened in Duncan on the land that is now home to the Blue Grouse Estate Winery (Duncan, BC). This site was managed by John Harper, a well-known and respected viticulturist from the Fraser Valley.
Then in 1992, Zanatta Estate Winery (Duncan, BC) opened as the first modern estate winery and tasting room on Vancouver Island. That same year Blue Grouse Estate Winery received its license to operate a winery, retail store, and sell its wines. This was the second license issued on Vancouver Island. Jackson Family Wines purchased this now 65-acre estate winery in 2022 with plans to enhance the winery’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay portfolio.
Also in 2009, Tim Turyk, a long-time resident to this region, learned of a small vineyard and winery up for sale. After working for over forty years in BC’s fishing industry, he was looking for a new challenge. So Turyk and his wife Colleen decided to purchase this property where they set out to create a vineyard, winery, and restaurant using sustainable means. The name Unsworth Vineyards (Mill Bay, BC) is a homage to Turyk’s mother’s heritage as Unsworth was her maiden name. Like Blue Grouse Estate Winery, Unsworth Vineyards is owned by Jackson Family Wines though both wineries still retain a gracious family-friendly island ethos with guided tasting experiences.
Four vineyards on Vancouver Island are certified by Sustainable Winegrowing BC (SWBC). The mission of SWBC is to guide wineries and grape growers in BC that enable and encourage them to practice good land stewardship, offer safe fulfilling employment, and be respectful neighbors. These four vineyards are owned or operated by Unsworth Vineyards. Currently no wineries are SWBC certified though Unsworth has an application in process with their new winery.
Some of Unsworth Vineyards are certified by Sustainable Winegrowing BC (SWBC). The mission of SWBC is to guide wineries and grape growers in BC that enables and encourages them to practice good land stewardship, offer safe fulfilling employment, and be respectful neighbors.
Other wineries in the Cowichan Valley include Alderlea Vineyards (North Cowichan), Averill Creek Vineyard (North Cowichan), Cherry Point Estate Wines (Cobble Hill), Cobble Hill Winery (Cobble Hill), Deol Estate Winery (North Cowichan), Divino Estate Winery (Cobble Hill), Emandare Vineyard (North Cowichan), Enrico Winery (Mill Bay), TellTale Winery (Cobble Hill), and Venturi-Schulze Vineyards (Cobble Hill). The annual month-long Cowichan Valley Wine Festival held in August offers visitors a curated experience through these aforementioned wineries.
Comox Valley
Moving north, Comox Valley encompasses mountains, farmlands, and beaches that include the village of Cumberland, the city of Courtenay, and the town of Comox, along with smaller communities. 40 Knots Winery (Comox, BC), one of the largest wineries on Vancouver Island, was founded by Bill Montgomery and opened in 2011. In addition to a range of red, white, and sparkling wines, they produce ciders and a line of skin care products named VinoSpa made with the Pinot Noir Noble Grape, which contains naturally occurring resveratrol and polyphenols.
In 2019, Beaufort Vineyard and Estate Winery (Courtney, BC) became the first organically certified vineyard on Vancouver Island with full organic certification for the winery being awarded in 2022. This family-run vineyard and winery grows 11 different varieties across 18 acres on the estate with 100% of their wines made from organic, estate-grown grapes.
The other two wineries situated in Comox Valley are Coastal Black Estate Winery (Black Creek, BC), a fruit winery and cider, and Raven’s Moon Estate Winery & Cider Worx (Courtenay, BC), who produce hand-crafted spirited fruit wines and sparkling hard ciders.
Saanich Peninsula, BC
This region’s proximity just north of the city of Victoria makes this area particularly accessible to travelers looking to combine their urban adventures with a wine tasting experience. Situated in the picturesque city of Victoria, Prohibition Vineyard was once known as Dragonfly Hill Winery. This historic winery established in 1995 played a significant role in shaping the wine industry on Vancouver Island.
North of the city of Victoria is Church and State Wines (Brentwood Bay, BC), which opened in May 2003 as Victoria Estates. Their 25 acres afford visitors to their tasting room panoramic views of the valley and the ocean. The name Church and State Wines represents the balance they seek to achieve with their wines by balancing traditions and technologies in the cellar and vineyard. They source most of their fruit from their second location in the Okanagan Valley fruit as Vancouver Island does not produce enough supply or diversity of classic Vitis vinifera grapes.
Other wineries in this region include Deep Cove Winery (North Saanich BC)
Invinity Sparkling Wine House (North Saanich, BC), Roost Farm Centre (North Saanich, BC), and Neighbourly Wine Co. (Saanichton, BC).
