Category: Archived Articles

Wines of the New World: MEXICO

Cyndi

By Neal Johnston

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Mexico appears on the horizon as one of the most important and relevant wine producing regions of the Americas, or countries of the New World. A fascinating example, Mexico has a rich and wonderful history. The ‘Rio Grande’ separates the USA and Mexico all the way to the Gulf. Immediately west of El Paso the boarder runs more or less in a straight line from east to west where it reaches the Pacific coast of San Diego. Some two thousand miles from Mexico’s northern border with Guatemala.

In past times Missionaries went to extraordinary lengths to carry their first discovered grapevines accompanied by ‘conquistadores’, or conquerors in a determined effort to reach Mexico. This was done over four hundred years ago. The present day wine industry in Mexico is around sixty years old. There has always been an underlying bone of contention between Mexico and Spain which has caused something of a hidden rivalry with bitter undertones. Their has of course been a degree of speculation throughout history as to why relations between the two countries have been frayed for so long. The Spaniards maintained a deeply rooted rivalry in view of a Mexican advance towards the growth and cultivation of some of the earliest discovered vines of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Spain in many ways felt the spark of jealousy as their wine industry forbade the planting of vines. While Mexico continued to make headway over Spain, the rivalry grew. Over the course of time and on down through the centuries there has been a certain amount of leeway given to the notion of dispersing such division and angst, amid a continuing advancement on the procurement and growth of wine and winemaking throughout much of Mexico in particular.

Mexico gained its independence in the latter part of the nineteenth century. By this stage the country had begun to move in with the times, and in the midst of a post-industrial climate, Mexico steadily began to grow more notably in stature and strength from independence. This was understandably liberating and good for Mexico, but deeply frustrating for the Spanish. The continuing change and progression of ideas stirred a sense of optimism as well as the imagination, and taste buds of many aspiring grape farmers across Mexico. It was at round this time that the first two wineries were built. ‘The Bodegas Ferrino’, at Cuatro Cieneges in Coahuila, and the ‘Bodegas de Santo’, in Baja California, both of which encouraged and sustained the tradition of growing two grape varieties in particular. The Criolla, and Mission grape traditions.

Further development came Mexico’s way when at the close of the nineteenth century. James Concannon, a Californian, successfully spearheaded a campaign which encouraged the President of Mexico at that time, Profiro Diaz, to take divisive action towards improving viticulture. The aim of the initiative was to show that it was indeed possible to develop Mexican wines to a much better commercial standard than was thought previously, by adopting and using specific v. vinfera- vines imported from Livermore, California. This realisation and striking piece of ingenuity led to the formation and immediate importing of several million individual handmade cuttings. These cuttings were then garnered and planted broadly throughout Mexico’s landscape. In anticipation of the two grape varieties imminent arrival, the next move was to ensure that at least one Bodega would be established in every state.

Unfortunately for Mexico this early, spirited, and challenging attempt at grapevine cultivation was overshadowed and oppressed by the inevitable turmoil that came with the upheaval, destruction and loss of life and land that ensued during the troubled and turbulent times of the Mexican revolution. A revolution which began in earnest in1910, and lasted a further ten years.

In the aftermath of the revolution Mexico’s vineyards were still very much regarded as being in a state of decline, and needing plenty of attention in order to come back more readily to fruition. A further, even greater concerted effort was brought underway by the ‘Association Nacional de Vitivinicultores’. In 1929 it was suggested that the destructive nature of warfare during the period of revolution caused Mexico to lose much of its viticulture history. A great number of fresh newly planted and carefully cared for vineyards now lay ravaged, ruined, and torn by the effects of warfare. For Mexico the established identity of grape cultivation had been all but severed and lost. Or so it would have seemed. The next step must have seemed like a mountain to climb for Mexico. To miraculously resurrect and negotiate a determined plan of action to reinvigorate growth was the way forward, and ultimately this is what led Mexico into the modern era. The dawn and birth of the very youngest wine industry in the Americas. Mexico’s wine industry was in its genesis stage.

Vineyards were developed in certain designated areas. Saltillo, Mexico City, Aguascalientes, Coahuila, Durango and Chihuahua. The Mexican Government gave an enormous stimulus boost to its wine industry at the end of the second world war. By raising duties and enforcing quota restrictions on imported wines, this meant that the prices of US, French and Spanish wines rose to five times that of Mexican wine. As a result of government intervention the reactivation of vineyards flourished to unprecedented new heights. Coming out of the cold, and a troubled past, the determination and sheer willpower of Mexico has shone through as a leading example. In essence they overcame a period of great adversity. Mexico has gained the respect it deserves and can be understood throughout the world wine map of today as an exemplary blueprint for hard work, grit and above all, determination. It is a symbol for for all of these.

Plotted acreages of vineyards subsequently catapulted from 4,000 to 175,000 acres over time, and these are still alive and growing in numbers today. The steadfast approach gives a superb real sense of time and place, and adds real flavour, character and zeal to the evolution of vines in Mexico.

Getting the Label Right

When we purchase a bottle of red, white, or rose hot of the shelf in supermarkets today the same sense of history can and should be applied to each and every label of every bottle. Giving not only its full contents description, but also in bringing us up to date historically of its greater significance. More attention to detail like this can surely catch the eye of the more discerning consumer amongst us. As well through word of mouth, the influence and measure of Mexico’s historical influence on the development of wines of the new world will surely catch on now even more. A developing wine country in many respects. If I was in charge of labelling all of Mexico’s wine I would make sure as a top priority that there was a well written indication on each label of the evocative heroism and strong work ethic of Mexico as not only a developing nation but as a surviving one too, and how this might bring us up to the present day. It is precisely this type of true to life, vivid background story that is so very appropriately befitting to Mexico. This is what makes Mexico’s wine so special, appealing, and unique. It is simply bursting with history and flavour. By law, and in this day and age, Mexico’s vineyards are denied single ownership. Their next best alternative is combined dual ownership between two families.

Further away form the east and west coasts we find the heartland of Mexican wine country today. The arid climate is more favourable here, weather conditions are temperate and generally good. The North western border of Mexico lies at an latitude of thirty two degrees North facing. This means that for the whole of Mexico, its landscape is situated within the hot sub-equatorial region. This can in more normal conditions be detrimental to producing good, healthy, successful vines. Mexico’s central plateau is on average some 1,500 metres above sea level. For every 300 metres of elevation there is a drop of 1.7 degrees Celcius in temperature. The altitude of the plateau therefore compensates nicely for an unfavourable latitude.

The days in fall see especially good growth take shape or Mexican grapes. While the days may be shorter and nearer to the equator, the drop in night time temperatures can be quite dramatic, and this presents the threat and danger of frost damage. These conditions can fluctuate and become erratic.

An unpredictability factor like this links into the greater looming effect and threat of climate change in the twenty first century, and indeed beyond that. Rainfall on the whole is not very consistent in Mexico. This means that some of their grapes will need more attention to detail than others in the form of irrigation from a further reduction in water supplies. Conversely, some areas can become overwhelmed by the heavy rainfall and even flooded out completely during the growing season. Interestingly around 90% of Mexico’s grapes are used for brandy production as the range of climate is generally suitable for this. They are also famous for their Tequila. There are primarily eight individual regions of vineyards throughout Mexico today. From north to south these are- Baja California, Hermosillo-Caborca, on the Sonora river. Delicias in Chihuahua. Laguna and Torreon on the border of Coahuila and Durango. Parras and Saltillo in Coahuila. The Fresnillo-Ojocaliente region in Zacatecas. Aguascalientes, and the San Juan de Rio, located north of Mexico City.

During the 1980’s there was a notable period of resurgence for winemaking in Mexico when production reached an output level of four million cases per year. The comparatively smaller scale of production to that of other wine producing countries meant that Mexico experienced something of a setback in profits. Baja, California is well known for producing ninety per cent of Mexican wine sells, and distributes one and a half million barrels per year today. The quality is different here and it is thought of as a considerably improved all rounder. A much better drink in the glass than many previous efforts.

Opinion on Mexico is divided, with some down grading the system, believing that the lower level production line is detrimental to their greater success. To compete on the world stage today, you need to be adept and quick thinking to follow and embrace change and to become more scientifically aware of these changes. Changes in technology for instance, never mind keeping up with changes in our global weather systems. Recent speculation suggests the ‘Valley of Guadalupe’, in Mexico to be the next big region, with comparisons in some quarters of the industry to that of the famous Napa Valley Region. Mexico is a developing wine country. What sets it apart in my opinion is the legacy of truly rich and romantic beginnings. It is set apart as a surviving wine country, having battled its way through upheaval and revolution and still coming through as strong. Today Mexico’s wine exports reach a total of thirty eight countries world wide, and many of their finest vintages have received the high standing accolade of international award.

Taxation at forty per cent per bottle makes it quite hard for wine to face up to the competition of beer and tequila for Mexico. The good news is that Mexicans are enjoying their wine more now than ever before. Their taste is steadily growing. More often than not imports on wine make their way into the Mexican market via countries like Chile, Australia and New Zealand. There is a lot to be said for not only supporting, but having faith in the underdog.

Picking up Wine with Your Groceries

Cyndi

By April Ingram

Real Canadian Superstore South Surrey announces B.C. wine sales beginning today. (CNW Group/Loblaw Companies Limited)

A ‘Foreign’ Concept Hitting British Columbia Supermarkets

With changes to recent laws in some provinces, Canadians can now find local wines on their grocery store shelves. This is a relatively new concept for the country, although very common in other parts of the world. In fact, a recent report found that in the United States up to 70% of all wine is sold in grocery stores. In the beginning, the change in British Columbia (BC) legislation seemed like a sweet deal for grocers to share in profits generated by alcohol sales, for consumers to enjoy the convenience of one-stop shopping, and for Canadian wine producers to reach more of these consumers. However, once the confetti settled and all the rules and restrictions became apparent, many were left scratching their heads.

Although the actual policy changes, set by the BC government’s Liquor Control and Licensing Branch, went into effect on April 1, 2015, change has been slow due to the complexity and challenges of adhering to the rules. In addition to the change in provincial laws, each municipality also has restrictions, so sorting it all out can be tricky. The Vancouver city council voted 9-1 to ban grocers from selling wine, despite some grocery stores in the city moving ahead with store renovations to accommodate the new market. As of June 2017, there were still only 21 BC grocery stores with wine for sale on their shelves.

The most significant changes in the sales policy have to do with the required distance between stores, what type of stores could sell what kind of alcoholic beverages, and retailers getting their hands on the particular type of license required. These licenses restrict sales to exclusively BC wine that meets the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) standards. The BC VQA program is an “appellation of origin” system, similar to the AOC and DOC systems in France and Italy. The system guarantees the origin of the grapes and ensures that qualifying wines meet certain minimum quality requirements. The VQA wines are more expensive than many other foreign and domestic wines.

Limited Licenses

With only approximately 60 licenses available province-wide, the process is highly competitive, and grocers are using multiple approaches to get needed licenses.

Overwaitea is a large grocery chain, and their strategy has been to sign operating agreements with the BC Wine Institute, which owns 21 licenses that allow for sales of only 100% BC wine. Loblaw’s, the parent company of Real Canadian Superstore has been buying some of the provincial government’s 24 licenses, previously considered ‘dormant’ at provincial auctions.

Stores must meet specific criteria to bid on licenses. They must be at least 929 square meters (10,000 square feet) in size, not currently licensed to sell liquor, be more than one kilometer (0.62 miles) from a privately-owned liquor store, and have the accompanying deposit of $25,000. The government has stated that the rules and restrictions are in place to protect the financial viability of private liquor stores. Although the deposit doesn’t sound unrealistic for a large corporation, competition has driven the prices from the minimum bid of $125,000 to a whopping $6.9 million paid by Loblaw’s to buy its first six licenses in April and May 2016.

A Wine Shop Experience, with a Catch

The wine isn’t just appearing on store shelves, next to the crackers and soda. Stores are undergoing extensive reconfiguring and renovations to create a wine shop experience within the supermarket. Transformed from typical store aisles into inviting spaces with hardwood-looking floors, softer lighting and inviting displays, most are right in the center of the market, carry approximately 400 varieties of BC wine, and keeping wine experts on hand to providing tastings, recommendations and food pairing inspiration. Some locations invite local winery representatives and wine makers to come in and have pouring events.

The current legislation does make for some strange situations between wine producers and stores. If a winery representative wants to stage a tasting event at a grocery store, they cannot bring in bottles direct from the winery – as is permitted at non-grocery BC VQA wine markets – they must purchase the bottles at retail price from the store, a substantial markup that includes tax. The government has noted that they plan to look into these types of situations and see if more standardization of practices and pricing would level the playing field.

Underage Concerns

Initially, there were fears that wine on grocery shelves would lead to easier access for underage buyers. Stores within the Overwaitea group have put safeguards in place to prevent minors from walking out with a bottle. They have tight security and ever-present cameras in place and to their knowledge, having sold more than one million bottles out of 13 stores thus far, not a single theft has occurred. Store cashiers have to be at least 19 years of age, with their system login including a confirmation of age. If an underage employee attempts to scan a bottle of Pinot Gris for a high school friend, the scanner will fail, and the system requests manager approval. Standard practice for stores is to ask for two pieces of ID from any customer who looks younger than 40. These grocery stores already carry cigarettes and have pharmacies within their locations, and have systems in place to ensure that controlled substances don’t end up in the wrong hands.

Local Exposure

There are currently over 250 wineries in BC, so one could expect store shelves to be brimming with local options. The original intention for supermarkets only carrying locally produced wine was to showcase what was made nearby, however small and medium-sized wine producers have concerns. According to the group BC Alliance for Smart Liquor Retail Choices, with the licenses being snatched up by large chains, the concern is that most of the wine orders will be filled by a handful of big wineries with more extensive inventory and lower price points, leaving smaller producers on the sidelines. Not all small producers agree, however, and some have had excellent experiences with grocery managers reaching out to smaller wineries to invite product and event participation. Some smaller producers have made direct contact with the local managers to get their product in stores. The new law provides an excellent opportunity for small wineries that aren’t on shelves in government or private liquor stores and rely mainly on onsite winery sales.
International Concerns

Although the exposure of local wines to consumers was intended to be a tremendous opportunity, particularly for smaller producers, not everyone is happy about the change in the laws. Many of Canada’s trading partners believe the practice to be discriminatory. This past January, the United States launched trade-enforcement action against Canada at the World Trade Organization (WTO), and New Zealand and the European Union were quick to announce that they will join the action. Shortly after, Argentina and Australia also followed suit. Consumers also thought that the exclusivity was a bit strange, noting that if a retailer is going to sell wine, then sell a selection of all types of wine and let the customers choose what they want.

The local industry fears that if the international trade challenges succeed, then BC wine, which only has 17% of market share, will be displaced on the shelves by higher-volume, lower-priced products. What first appeared to be a promising prospect for both BC wineries and grocery stores, may now be a limited offering. If upheld, the trade challenge will require adding imported wines to Canadian grocery stores, or the government will abandon the initiative altogether.

The government continues to make attempts to modernize legislation around alcohol sales and support the local wine industry, an overall boon for the provincial economy. According to the BC Wine Institute, the BC wine and grape industry contributed $2.8 billion to the economy in 2015. Legislative adjustments continue to address current challenges, and recent changes are relaxing liquor laws, allowing any business that doesn’t serve children to apply for licenses, such as barbers, bookstores and art galleries.

Do I Detect a Hint of Ash?

Cyndi

By April Ingram

Knowing if You Have Smoke Taint Sooner

In many prominent grape growing regions around the globe, a new season, fire season, seems to be arriving on an increasingly regular basis. Drought conditions, high temperature, and wicked winds are turning small grassfires or a discarded cigarette into raging, devastating firestorms. The immediate concern for growers is for the safety of people and property, and then later surveying the damage to equipment, orchards and vineyards. The losses in recent years from wildfires have been catastrophic.

Long after the fire has passed, the potential of smoke taint ruining an entire vintage is a real concern. Undesirable contamination of grapes from smoke can result in less than desirable sensory expressions in the wine – smoky, burnt or ashy. When smoke taint is possible, winemakers have only two options: throw out an entire vintage or make wine and hope for the best. Researchers would like to give them more options and are looking into questions regarding the amount of smoke and how long it had contact with the grapes before it effectively ruins the vintage, what can be done to salvage the grapes and possibly alleviate perceptible taint, and earlier, more efficient detection of smoke taint.

At the University of British Columbia Okanagan (UBCO) in Kelowna British Columbia, Canada, new research conducted by Dr. Wesley Zandberg and Ph.D. candidate Matt Noestheden has uncovered a way to assess and quantify the amount of smoke taint, helping winemakers know the good or bad news sooner.

Volatile phenols are aromatic compounds found in Vitis Vinifera berries. They represent the key molecules responsible for the olfactory defects in wine. These compounds can be developed within the grape or originate from external sources. Some volatile phenols impart desirable sensory attributes, such as when the wine is barrel aged. Alternatively, the exposure of the grape to smoke may cause the fermented wine to lack some of its varietal characteristics and have variations of a burnt aroma; some have even described it as “burnt meat” or “band-aid” flavor and smell.

The Okanagan Valley of British Columbia is a diverse area, home to hundreds of vineyards, and sadly, frequent forest fires. Adding insult to injury, thick smoke from fires in neighboring Alberta and Washington State can also settle into the area. In 2003, a fire destroyed hundreds of homes in Kelowna and thousands of people evacuated. Due to the smoke and ash caused by the fire, many area vineyards had to abandon their grapes completely. One vineyard reported that “even the birds won’t eat the grapes off the vines!” Some wineries went ahead and made wine, crossing their fingers that it wasn’t disastrous. Some had to dump wine, even after expensive filtering, while others had a “fire sale” and a “$10 release.” Some wineries embraced the year, used it as marketing, highlighting the “slight burnt character,” of the 2003 reserve. A tasting note from the region the following year noted, “a toastiness to the vintage” thinking they must have intensified the toast of the barrels, realizing later that it was from 2003.

Zandberg and Noestheden set out to do field work early on and worked with some local growers to deliberately ‘smoke’ some Cabernet Franc vines. They created an enclosure and exposed the vines and berries to smoke from local fire fuel sources (typical for forest fires in the region) for 60 minutes. They then analyzed the volatile phenols in the grapes at multiple times points, from smoke exposure until harvest and then into the wine. They wanted to elucidate the chemistry and biology of how wine grapes respond to smoke exposure. Winemakers know that grapes grown in smoky conditions may taste okay, even good, but result in smoky-flavored wine. Zandberg, an assistant professor of chemistry, was determined to solve the how and why of this mystery.

The results showed that the volatile phenols increased after smoke exposure and rapidly metabolized and stored in the grape. Concentrations remained constant through the entire development and ripening period. Additionally, they found an increase in total volatile phenols after primary fermentation.

To growers, that means that once the smoke gets into the grapes, it is there to stay. If smoke taint was detectable earlier in the developing berry rather than in the wine, wineries could save themselves the expense of producing a wine of questionable taste.

2017 was a particularly smoky year in the area and despite the poor air quality, the researchers did not find any notable smoke taint in the grapes. Good news for the 2017 vintages! The study also found that visible ash or haze on the grapes is not necessarily indicative of smoke taint.

The UBCO team looked at the impact of potential mitigation strategies, testing whether overhead irrigation may be effective in reducing the effect of smoke exposure. They were somewhat surprised to find that washing or irrigating the grapes did not appear to reduce the concentration of volatile phenols. Once it is in the fruit, it stays in there.   They hope to continue to test additional mitigation strategies in the future. Other approaches, such as reverse osmosis have been considered, but winemakers tend to be wary. Often finding that when attempting to remove the bad flavor, the desired character and complexity is also filtered away.

“The compounds are converted by the grape to a form that has sugars attached and they can’t be detected by any current instruments,” said Zandberg. “They also can’t be tasted or smelled. When yeast is introduced, it has enzymes that partially cleave the sugars from compounds, which makes them perceptible again.”

Without early detection, wineries invest tremendous time and money into harvesting grapes that taste untainted, only to find out after fermentation that the wine tastes awful.  Making a small test batch of wine is nearly impossible because while waiting 10 days or more for the subjective taste and smell test, the remaining grapes would likely ferment or spoil. Now, Zandberg and Noestheden can provide qualitative results, accurately measured amounts of volatile phenols, within a matter of hours, and winemakers can make informed decisions about whether they should use those grapes at all.

Notably, the technique can also be applied to grapes that have been fermented and aged, measuring the phenol levels in the wine itself, which could be beneficial in determining desired flavor profiles, such as after aging in smoked barrels.

Based on a previous study into smoke taint in Australia, the team at UBCO recognized that the fuel sources of the fires (barley straw and eucalyptus in Australia compared to Ponderosa pine trees in British Columbia) also produce different compounds and have different impacts. Also, because this study controlled the source of the smoke and contained the exposure, unexposed, “control” grapes were only a few yards away and acted as the perfect comparators.

This work is significant to the wine industry, resource management and potential insurance issues related to the loss of a vintage due to smoke taint. The study was in the prestigious Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. Zandberg and Noestheden have presented their work at numerous national and international conferences and symposia. Supporters of the study include industrial partner, Supra Research and Development in Kelowna, British Columbia, the BC Wine Grape Council, and the Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council.

Zandberg and Noestheden will next tackle connecting analytical chemistry to the senses for a better understanding of the science behind desirable wine characteristics. They hope that highlighting ways to zero in on these traits will take some of the subjectivity out of winemaking.

Growers need answers based on evidence, and they need it sooner, rather than later.  Some existing tests for smoke taint claim to provide the solution, but currently, none can detect the effects of complex compounds and sugars until fermentation.

With the recent number of fires and intensity of smoke in many North American wine regions, wine producers needed something to help them manage the impact of smoke in the vineyard. For them, and for the industry, an effective tool in this analytical test could not have come soon enough.

Viticulture & Enology Education? Consider Looking Northward

Cyndi

By April Ingram


Viticulture is dynamic, scientific and, with innovation advancing and our environment continually evolving, it can be a challenge to keep on top of it all. Even the most seasoned winemakers and grape growers could benefit from updating or fine-tuning their knowledge. Ensuring the entire vineyard team possesses the most up-to-date skills and education to grow the finest grapes and produce premium wine is never a bad idea.

People may seek out viticulture or enology education programs to optimize their knowledge and skills, improve those of their employees, or perhaps even satisfy a career shift into the wine industry. Many programs exist, varying in depth, length and content, and provide education on specific aspects of viticulture, including combining viticulture with business management and enology.

Brock University

When starting to search out the programs that best fit your needs, consider looking northward. Canada’s most significant wine regions, Niagara, Ontario and the Okanagan in British Columbia offer viticulture and enology programs carefully designed to meet the varying needs of today’s global grape growing and winemaking industries. Alumni from these programs have gone to make waves on the international front.

Brock University (brocku.ca) in Ontario offers an Oenology (Canadian for ‘Enology’) and Viticulture degree, which focuses on the science of winemaking and grape growing. The course begins with a comprehensive education encompassing sensory science, biochemistry, biotechnology, chemistry, microbiology, genetics, molecular biology, plant physiology and cell biology. The education is enhanced by an opportunity to apply what is learned in lecture halls to hands-on winemaking labs and viticulture field-work. This includes industry experience via the co-op program, spending at least one work term in a vineyard setting with another at a winery during harvest time. Extracurricular lectures and events organized by Brock’s internationally renowned Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute connect students with leading researchers in the field.

The Viticulture Technician Diploma at Brock is designed to provide hands-on, theoretical and practical knowledge to the vineyard management team, focusing on planning, developing, planting and maintaining a vineyard for the production of quality wine. Steven Trussler, OEVI Senior Lab Instructor, told The Grapevine Magazine, “The diploma program is structured around the viticulture growing season, providing opportunities to develop and apply skills leading to sustainable practices within commercial vineyards.” Trussler adds, “An exciting aspect of working in a vineyard is that nothing is routine, as nature and the vines exert their influence, creating an ever-changing environment. Students will be exposed to this dynamic environment of viticulture, developing a range of skills and knowledge, including canopy management, pest control, pruning, training vines, sensory evaluation, occupational health and safety, and operating equipment. An integral aspect of the diploma is a co-op term to ensure students have a comprehensive understanding of the production practices and processes that enable employment within the industry.”

Trussler explained the distinction that exists between the undergraduate program at Brock, Oenology and Viticulture (OEVI) and the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), “The OEVI program is housed in the Department of Biology at Brock University. Students study core courses of biology and chemistry with the other BSc students and supplement this education with specialized courses in Oenology and Viticulture. CCOVI is a research institute at Brock dedicated to supporting the Canadian and international cool climate grape and wine industries through research, outreach and continuing education. CCOVI doesn’t have any students per se; however the students in our undergraduate program are able to use the facilities of the research institute, and the researchers at CCOVI are appointed to teach in the Department of Biology. This is important because students are trained in grape growing, and winemaking principles that can be applied anywhere-there is no particular emphasis within the undergraduate program on cool climate. Having said that, because our undergraduates interact with world-renowned scientists working within the framework of cool climate oenology and viticulture, they have the opportunity to gain specialized knowledge as they participate in research and other learning activities associated with the institute.”

The Brock undergraduate program also includes 12 months of full-time, paid co-op experience, as well as a mandatory eight-month honors thesis wherein students work one-on-one with a CCOVI researcher to complete new research, write a thesis and defend their work in front of a committee. There is also a strong Masters and Ph.D. program. These students are part of the work of CCOVI and are dedicated to understanding and developing responses to the challenges and opportunities of cool climate grape growing and winemaking.

As Trussler said, the knowledge gained is applicable far beyond cooler climates, which is why students from around the world have enrolled in the program, including from France, Australia, Korea, Argentina, the US, and China. For the 2018 intake, there have already been applicants from France and Nigeria. “Our graduate students come from all over as well,” said Trussler. “Right now, we have a post-doc working with us from China via Australia, and grad students from Jamaica and Korea. Our staff Oenologist, Dr. Belinda Kemp, is a sparkling wine expert from the UK, who completed her Ph.D. in New Zealand. Dr. Gary Pickering, our sensory science researcher is from New Zealand and is cross-appointed to Charles Sturt University in Australia. We also host interns from around the world. Right now we have one from the University of Bordeaux and three from Dijon.” Among Brock’s notable and proud alumni are winemaker Conor van der Reest of Moorilla winery in Tasmania; and Elizabeth Grant Douglas, who has had enormous success in California and other U.S. West Coast states.

The impact of the program and its global reach are impressive, considering it began in 1996, with the first students graduating in 2000, and only about 100 BSc graduates so far.

Brock also offers a certificate program for students that have already completed an undergraduate degree in related fields (Chemistry, Biology, Food Science, etc.). Students come to Brock and complete, in a calendar year, all of the specialized oenology and viticulture courses of the undergraduate program and receive a Certificate in Grape and Wine Technology. It’s an intense program, not for the faint of heart, and many students elect to complete it part-time, but it can be a great way to pivot students’ careers by leveraging their experience in other fields and applying them specifically to the grape and wine industry.

The Future is Female

Another interesting factoid about the program at Brock-the majority of the enrollment is female, a trend which continues through the graduate student population and into the staff of CCOVI. Brock researcher Belinda Kemp has a winemaking passport that includes work on three continents. She recently featured in Vintages magazine as one of 16 women who have made an indelible mark as an industry innovator in the wine world. “The women on this list are a group of forward-thinking industry trailblazers,” said Kemp. “To be named alongside them is truly an honor.”

A Viticulture Diploma Program Meeting the Evolving Needs of the Industry

Turning to Western Canada, Okanagan College, at their campus in stunning Penticton, British Columbia, has taken a uniquely strategic and collaborative approach to developing their recently piloted Viticulture Diploma program. With campuses throughout the wine-industry-rich Okanagan Valley, Okanagan College (www.okanagan.bc.ca) has been actively working with wine and viticulture partners for decades. Eight years ago, as the Canadian wine industry was hitting a real boom and the wine was making more noticeable strides on the world stage, the BC wine industry recognized that a higher level of talent was needed in the vineyards. BC wine is a $2 billion industry, so it made sense for the provincial government and industry to support the initiative of developing a program curriculum that would lead to creating a highly educated and experienced viticulture workforce for the region and beyond.

In 2011, a comprehensive human resources review was conducted and released in 2012 as the BC Viticulture Industry Labour Market Information Research Report. It provided a framework to ensure BC grape growers have the skilled and trained employees required for its continued growth and success, and to ensure employees have compelling career pathways in the sector. The BC Viticulture Human Resource Strategy was then created to research and review options for a Viticulture Technician training program model. Jonathan Rouse, Associate Dean of the Okanagan School of Business Director of Food, Wine, and Tourism was integral in working with the British Columbia Wine Grape Council (BCWGC) in building the curriculum for Okanagan College that would meet the needs identified by the industry. The goals of the program were to attract and recruit the best people and share with them the many career pathways in the vineyard; educate them on growing the best grapes for the best wines; and develop an economically, socially and environmentally sustainable career and business.

The goal of the BC grape-growing industry was to train workers with appropriate practical experience and technological skills, as well as scientific, mathematical and human resource knowledge to meet the evolving needs of the viticulture sector. They recognized that the industry was not only increasing in size but that additional skill and knowledge challenges needed to be met with regards to viticulture-related technologies, environmental stewardship and workplace safety. These challenges required the ability to be able to analyze, synthesize and integrate knowledge to solve problems in the workplace.

Furthermore, professional aspects of a viticulture technician had to be emphasized and supported by increased skills and knowledge, as well as career paths and development opportunities, with possibilities to “ladder” into degree programs. To this end, the curriculum for the two-year applied academic Viticulture Technician Diploma at Okanagan College was born. As Rouse told The Grapevine Magazine, “This is the first time in Canada there has been such a focused viticulture program offered, which includes little oenology.”
The first intake of the program was in September 2017. The curriculum timeline is built around the cycle of the vineyards, with the first students now half-way through their two-year program. The college is also looking toward delivering the program to part-time students, particularly to those that may already possess some talent or experience in the vineyards but want to explore or build on different skill sets. Rouse said that these students are not seeking a diploma, but “they would have the opportunity to pick very specific courses, such as trellis or irrigation management, in order to fine-tune skills.” He adds, “smaller wineries are looking to cross-train some of their employees, while some of the larger wineries are looking for individuals with a very targeted skill set. The industry has been extremely encouraging, and we are finding that employers are providing support in the form of funding or time accommodation for their employees.”

The program focused highly on meeting the needs of the student and their transition to meeting the needs of the workplace. A vital part of this transition is the co-op portion of the curriculum. Students spend May to August (up to harvest/crush) with a vineyard, applying and fine-tuning their skills or specific interests and developing communication abilities for employment.

Rouse and his colleagues at Okanagan College are excited about the forward momentum of the program, the very positive feedback from the industry, and the success of the first students. They continue to make subtle adjustments to the program to optimize the student experience and be adaptable to an industry that demands it. They are looking forward to the next intake of students, projected for

A Step Inside the Wine Library

Cyndi

By April Ingram

The Wine Library and Vinotheque at the University of British Columbia (UBC) campus in Vancouver, Canada are probably unlike any library you’ve ever ventured. There isn’t a stern librarian asking you to “shhh” while glaring over her glasses at you – although, there are few glasses on hand. This is a Wine Library, where row after row of bottles of wine sit, quietly aging, all in the name of advancing wine science. Unlike the other University libraries on campus, it is not open to the public, and you won’t be able to check-out or borrow anything from it, but if you have some fine wine you’d like to lend, you can certainly check it in, and they will even give you a tax receipt for your contribution.

The UBC Wine Library has the capacity to hold upward of 22,000 bottles of wine, and the Vinotheque section houses up to 8000 bottles of the worlds most excellent wines.  The Library currently contains approximately 5000 bottles in its collection and is operating under the careful guidance of Murray B. Isman, Ph.D. FESA FRES, Dean Emeritus and Interim Director of the Wine Research Centre.

The Wine Library was initially established in 2002 by Founding Director Hennie van Vuuren as a research initiative to determine which grape varietals will do best in which micro-climatic areas in British Columbia (BC) and determine how wines produced in the region age. Initially housed in an old storage room in the basement of the Nutritional Science Building, the library now hides behind a beautiful oak door with carefully controlled temperature and humidity, secured by an elaborate security system. The facility is part of the Faculty of Land and Food Systems, Wine Research Centre (WRC) and is the second of its kind in Canada (the first at Brock University in Eastern Canada, also founded by van Vuuren). A donation from Mission Hill Family Vineyards, a Kelowna, BC winery, allowed for a tasting room to be built for the library. Perhaps more libraries should incorporate a wine tasting room.

Once the facility was built, the challenge became how to fill the library’s stacks. The early research collection included young wines produced in BC from 1998-2006 from 18 different BC wineries. Each winery donated 24 bottles of wines selected for the study. The wines were aged under precise temperature and humidity-controlled conditions. Time and chemical reactions can augment imperfections in wine, so the original research planned to open each bottle eventually, taste the wine, and chemically analyze it by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry over decades. The analysis was intended to help BC vintners and growers improve their growing techniques and better compete in the international marketplace by providing details related to quality and aging of wines from different microclimatic regions.

At the time the Library was established, little was known about BC wine’s ability to age, as the vines and the wine industry in the region were relatively young. Van Vuuren hoped that the knowledge gained from the aging study would deliver science-based principles to the growers to help them find the right sites to plant specific grape varietals and maximize the Okanagan Valley’s potential to produce outstanding cool climate wines. Things have changed significantly over the past 20 years. The Okanagan wine region now includes hundreds of renowned wineries, is now established on an international level, and receiving awards and accolades from around the world.

All wines have been donated by vintners or private collectors, including some very special bottles of wine. The local wine industry responded exceptionally well to the call to contribute their vintages and provide financial contributions to establish and set-up the wine library. Contributing wineries in the area included Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, Calona Vineyards, Gray Monk Estate Winery, and Tinhorn Creek Winery.

Donations from private collectors have been incredibly valuable and are always welcomed.  Donating can be attractive to collectors for a variety of reasons. Some collectors have accumulated many special vintages over decades and are looking to pare down or trade out bottles from the collection and keep a select few for extra special occasions. In Canada, an individual would have to report any funds from selling wine as revenue, or capital gains and pay 20 percent tax on that money. Additionally, the provincial liquor control board requires a 10 percent cut on any alcohol sold, leaving the seller with 70 percent of their original value. By donating the wine, the donor is given a tax credit for the full appraised value of the wine, as if they had made a cash donation to the University. The winery and private donors tend to be wine connoisseurs with a keen interest in advancing a deeper understanding of the characteristics and composition of excellent wines.

As the region became more established and the vines and knowledge of the winemakers matured and evolved, so has the vision and focus of the Wine Library. The donated wine is now less likely to undergo chemical analysis or be tasted as part of training for winemaking because the small amount needed for any research study would waste an entire bottle of an already established, magnificent wine. These fine wines are a unique asset to the Wine Research Centre and can be leveraged into funding of new and ongoing research projects. The collection includes French, Californian and other fine wines, including Bordeaux first growths dating back to 1945.  The UBC Wine Library is becoming less of a hidden secret in the basement of a campus building. The library and tasting room have hosted dignitaries and special guests in the beautiful space. The full-service kitchen on the floor above has allowed for very special dinners, accompanied by extra special wine, hosted in the intimate and beautiful tasting room. Well-known guests to the Wine Library include Nobel Laureates, Drs. Sydney Brenner and John Sulston as well as Philippe Bascaules, Princess Chulabhorn of Thailand, and Drs. Irving K. Barber and Stewart Blusson, both major donors to UBC.

To learn more about the ongoing research at the UBC Wine Research Centre, visit…http://wine.landfood.ubc.ca/about/wine-research-centre/

The Wine Library invites potential donors to contribute great wines to this worthy cause, please contact the Wine Research Centre at…604-822-0005

South African Wine Industry Overcoming and Adapting to Day Zero Declaration

Cyndi

By April Ingram

The Western Cape of South Africa and its historic vineyards, nestled in the mountains to the east of Cape Town, are a major draw for tourists, with tens of thousands of overseas visitors enjoying tours and tastings every year. The worst drought in living memory hit vineyards in South Africa’s Western Cape hard, reducing grape harvests and adding to pressure on the region’s centuries-old wine industry. As the world’s seventh largest wine producer, a decrease in its wine production could heavily hit the country’s overall economic growth.

In October 2017, the mayor of Cape Town and the South African government made a dramatic declaration that caught the attention of the world. Day Zero, the date on which the taps are turned off due to severe drought, was to be in March 2018, leaving four million residents of the country’s second largest city without drinking water.

In light of the looming deadline, the city implemented unprecedented water restrictions, such as a daily limit of 50 liters of water per person (a single toilet flush uses nine liters of water, and a minute-long shower uses 10 liters); severe, mandatory decreases in water usage by agricultural users and commercial properties; and complete bans of unnecessary water usage, such as filling pools and washing cars.

Consider if your vineyard was suddenly hit with an enforceable water quota – reduce water use by 60 percent. Once you reach your quota, the taps are shut off – not a warning or a fine, not a slap on the wrist — turned off.

“These strict water curtailments cost farmers dearly,” said Janse Rabie of South African agriculture lobbying group Agri SA. “It also had an enormous impact on farm workers (particularly seasonal workers) who could not be employed or had to be let go.”

Although the official “Day Zero” was pushed back by generous rainfall in recent months, the drought is still very real, and the threat of shut off still looms.

Flexibility & Planning are Keys to Survival

South Africa’s wine sector, dating back to the arrival of the first European settlers in the 1650s, has been hit hard. Winemakers in the region make up 11 percent of the southwestern region’s economic output and sustain 300,000 jobs, contributing about $3 billion to the economy in 2015. Grape production fell 15 percent from last year and, according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), output from Africa’s top wine-producing region is set to slump by over 20 percent this year, leading to a production shortfall of 170 million liters of wine.

Many vine growers have deserted acres of vines, unable to sustain them with the water restrictions. However, some vineyard owners and managers are rising above the drought, reinventing growing practices, participating in research, realizing that drought in the region may very well be their new normal.

A shift in varietals is taking place, toward planting and replacing dying vines with more quality drought tolerant and drought-resistant vines. The replacement varietals produce more flavor, acidity and intensity, but have lower water needs. These include new clones of Grenache and cultivars such as Assyrtiko, Verdelho, Chenin Blanc, Vermentino, Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional, which are suited to South Africa’s growing conditions and changing climate.

Necessary Shifts in Vine Management

Vines that are typically resilient are showing visible effects from the three-year-long drought.  Shoots arrive early but are notably dry and shriveled. Corlea Fourie, head of viticulture at Bosman Family Vineyards, said, “harvest was down by a third compared to prior harvests and the berries shriveled quite a bit.”

The shriveled berries, referred to as “oumens gesiggies” (old people’s faces), are suitable for concentration but lack the vibrancy and freshness needed to complete the flavor profile. Berries that aren’t dried out are noticeably smaller, resulting in less juice and drastically affecting overall volumes.

Fourie said vine management had to shift. “Both managers and laborers spent countless grueling hours in the sun pruning in anticipation of the dry season,” she said. “We had to harvest earlier and give up some crop. It was during this harvest that I realized I wasn’t in charge anymore.”

Other vineyards have been forced to revert to the tradition of dry farming.  Many regions had irrigation supplies completely cut off months before harvest. Some young and needy vines were only able to be irrigated once in the entire season.

Cover crops are being carefully considered and planted, to ensure proper water absorption and better water retention when the rainy season starts.  VinPro and Winetech, networks which represent the nation’s wine producers and stakeholders, have worked together to present a series of information days in the region that focused on effective viticultural practices in times of water scarcity. Some of the tips shared by specialists in the field were:

  • Determine the point at which your grapevine is taking stress so that you can apply water optimally and even increase quality.
  • Irrigation should be timed meticulously. If only one irrigation is planned, véraison is the appropriate time. If there is enough water for a second round, vineyards can be irrigated during the peaberry stage. If the winter was very dry and there is enough water available for a third irrigation, it can be applied just before flowering to ensure a good set.
  • Avoid impulse irrigation, as a lot of water is lost via evaporation. Rather ensure that the entire root volume is wet and allow it to dry before irrigating again.
  • Do not remove grapes unnecessarily or mothball vineyards; it won’t have a significant effect on transpiration. No grapes equal no production.

VinPro’s regional viticulturists have been working to assist producers with drought-specific advice and issued a guideline titled “Management of grapevines during drought periods” in collaboration with the Institute for Grape and Wine Sciences (IGWS) on the two organizations’ websites.

A Drive Towards Research

Although South Africa’s wine industry has been focusing on research related to climate change for more than a decade now, there is currently a big drive towards researching different ways in which the industry can monitor and manage water usage more efficiently.  Research priorities include examining smart-agri tools, drought tolerant cultivars, water stress management, and efficient irrigation management.

Gerard Martin, executive manager of Winetech, describes some of the key research being done, specifically looking at vine’s response to water stress. “Both grapevine scion cultivars and rootstock varieties differ in their tolerance and response to limited water supplies. The reaction of a grafted vine to water stress can’t necessarily be predicted from the scion and rootstock varieties’ individual reactions,” he said.

This study will determine irrigation management standards to avoid unacceptable levels of stress that would have negative impacts on grape yield and quality. “We put different grapevine scion-rootstock combinations under defined water stress to compare the molecular, metabolic stress fingerprints. In the end, we will be able to characterize the differences in water acclimatization potential of the different plant materials to water stress to improve viticultural practices,” said Martin.

Higher-yielding trellis systems are being studied in combination with different irrigation strategies. Water use, yield and quality from bush vines and vines that are drip-irrigated, on vertical shoot positioned (VSP) trellis systems are being measured and compared to that of grapevines trained onto high potential yield trellis systems in the coastal region. The economic input requirements for grape production of different canopy management/trellis systems and irrigation strategy combinations are also being investigated.

The traditional profile of South African wine may shift, and in the longer term, producers will have to look at quality, drought-resistant vines which produce more flavor, acidity and intensity, but have lower water needs.  In the meantime, growers are working to adapt practices to fit the new normal, and while “Day Zero” still looms, and restrictions are in place, the Department of Water and Sanitation is looking for divine intervention to end the drought in the Western and the Eastern Cape: it has called on citizens to continue to conserve, but pray for rain. (Sunday Times Newspaper)

Coexisting With Wildlife in the Canadian Vineyard

Cyndi

By April Ingram

British Columbia touts the tag-line ‘Super, Natural British Columbia’ in their tourism branding and advertising, drawing visitors from all over the world to come and see Canadian wildlife in all its natural glory.  Wilderness tourism is a primary driver of all tourism in BC, which in total represents $13.8 billion in revenue and 132,000 direct jobs.

The region is blessed with a rich variety of habitats and wildlife and distinct wine growing regions surrounded by stunning natural scenery. Some of the same factors of climate, soil, and geography that contribute to growing the wine industry also support a diversity of unique ecosystems and plant and animal populations.

As the human population and development expand, many wildlife species increasingly depend on private land and working landscapes such as vineyards for all or part of their life cycle. This necessity translates into interactions with some of our wild inhabitants on a near daily basis, and some encounters are more positive than others. Wildlife such as deer, bear, rodents and birds can develop a liking for grapes, or the vine itself, and cause significant crop losses.

There seems to be a shift in attitude from wildlife in the vineyard being regarded as pests that need to be managed, to a coexistence, leading to healthy and biologically diverse ecosystems. Maintaining this balance can provide many essential services to viticulturists and reduce the need for inputs such as pesticides and fertilizers, increase the productive capacity of the land, and reduce production risks.

Vineyards provide habitat, food sources and breeding grounds for a variety of birds, amphibians and reptiles and can serve as corridors for wildlife as they move between habitats. It is important to balance the need to protect your vines and grapes with the need to maintain healthy local ecosystems and support the species that depend on them.

Before veraison, our wild inhabitants usually find the grapes to be too tart, but things can become especially problematic in the lead up to harvest.  As the grapes accumulate more sugar, they become especially tasty for birds, deer and bears, whose pre-winter appetites can be destructive to harvest yields. Even more so, as growers carefully monitor the temperatures until they dip down to the required -12 C, those grapes are one of the few food sources available at that time of year for birds and deer, so protecting them becomes a top priority.

Sound wildlife management requires using an integrated approach that should include prevention of conflict, identifying and learning about the species, monitoring them and the damage they cause, choosing appropriate control methods and reviewing the effectiveness of your actions. Most wildlife issues are managed through preventative measures. For example, habitat alteration and exclusion strategies can reduce the number of pests and problem wildlife frequenting your vineyard. These strategies may include using grow tubes around young vines to discourage chewing by rodents; selecting cover crops that are less desirable to wildlife, locating compost heaps away from forests and thickets; and clearing away brush piles that create habitat for birds.

The Okanagan Similkameen Conservation Alliance (OSCA) is a registered non-profit society run by a volunteer board of directors, with other dedicated volunteers and contract staff who plan and deliver over one hundred environmental events every year in communities in the region. They help farmers connect with organizations and resources to fund conservation projects. This kind of support is crucial because merely wanting to get along with wildlife is far easier than actually making a plan and doing the hard work. As Tanya Brouwers, the OSCA ECOstudies coordinator says, “it’s one thing to put up a bat box, but it’s quite another to have to fence off a wetland, a long stretch of creek or to replant these areas if they’ve been damaged. Projects like these can be very costly to a farmer.”

Know Your Neighbors

Getting to know your animal neighbors is vital. Invasive species and native birds may both be unwanted in the vineyard, but strategies for controlling these pests differ. The Migratory Birds Convention Act and the Species at Risk Act protect some birds (e.g., bluebirds and Lewis’s Woodpecker) and these protections require that management strategies fit within the law.

Starlings, robins, house finches and other birds feed on grapes. Starlings, however, cause the most damage. Ensure that starlings are not able to nest in farm structures, or destroy their nests before the young fledge. Creating nest traps can be useful in controlling starlings, but care should be taken not to trap other cavity-nesting birds (e.g., bluebirds, flickers). It is illegal to kill or harass most native birds and their nests in Canada as detailed in the Migratory Birds Convention Act and the BC Wildlife Act. However, the European Starling is a non-native bird for which there is an aggressive campaign of extermination and netting to prevent fruit loss.

Audible bird scare devices can be a nuisance to the vineyard’s human neighbors; therefore the provincial government’s Ministry of Agriculture has developed strict guidelines for the use of these devices.

Rodents can damage young vines by gnawing on grape shoots, roots and crowns. While the damage they cause in vineyards is usually minor, they also attract animals such as badgers, snakes and coyotes, which can become problem wildlife. Snakes are not considered an agricultural pest but can become a nuisance or a danger to vineyard workers. In fact, snakes are beneficial to crops because they are significant predators of rodents. Provincial and federal laws make it an offense to harass or kill snakes.

Deer and elk can severely damage vines. They don’t just eat buds, spurs, shoots, fruit and leaves, they scratch their itches, and rub their antlers against the plant, breaking branches and removing bark in the process.

When dealing with deer and elk, sScare devices like cracker or whistler shells, propane exploders, and electronic Av-Alarm or Phoenix Wailer Systems are an option, but may also become a problem for neighbors. Some growers allow hunters (especially bow hunters) to access their land during hunting seasons, where this is permissible. Some opt to plant “lure crops,” crops less desirable to wildlife.

God’s Mountain Estates placed their vineyard deer fence well inside their property boundaries, leaving natural habitat outside the fence but within their acreage. This fencing placement allows wildlife to travel along all four sides of the vineyard to get to their water sources and up to the cliffs and forest for shelter, but keeps them from snacking on the grape harvest along the way.

Bears

Bears can be a nuisance in some vineyards and can pose a threat to workers, becoming a severe problem as the harvest approaches. In years when native berry hosts have low production, vineyards have become a favorite target of bears in the fall. Depending on the intensity of bear attack, vineyard managers have tried many different methods to keep bears out, such as nightly patrols to scare off bears with bird flares and bangers, rubber bullets or other scare tactics. Managers must weigh this approach against staff costs and safety. The only long-term, proven and effective method for keeping bears out of vineyards is properly constructed electric fencing.

John Skinner of Painted Rock described a worrying “infestation” of black bears in the vineyard six years ago that led to a loss of 11 tons of grapes in just three weeks. “In September of 2010, we noticed bear scat and evidence that they were eating our grapes overnight. As time went on, more bears arrived, having no problem climbing our deer fence. Losing fruit at night is one thing, but the bears started showing up during the day when our staff were busy at work among the vines,” Skinner told Wine Spectator in 2016. “We had to solve the problem with a higher electrified fence, as well as an electric mat at the front gate.”

Waterside Vineyard & Winery in Enderby, BC considers their resident bear and his appetite more of a barometer for harvest and part of the “nature tax.” On their website, they describe him as, “a great bear that comes down from the mountains, and wanders into the vineyard. He seeks the sweetness and comfort of this place where he began, a place where he, too, grew and thrived, and returns to when the grapes are perfect in their ripening for magnificent flavors of wine.  He is our telltale of harvest time.”  Jennifer Marcotte of Waterside shares that this season she has not yet caught a photo of their bear, but, “just evidence, and missing grapes!”

To mediate some of the damage caused by wildlife to farmers in the province, the government created the Agriculture Wildlife Program that provides compensation for losses to harvests due to specific wildlife (bison, bear, cranes, deer, elk, moose, mountain sheep, and waterfowl). Unfortunately, this program does not extend to grape growers, only to lost forage crops.

Kelowna’s Tantalus Vineyards has numerous initiatives to preserve sustainability and peaceful coexistence with local wildlife. According to their website, they are a naturally-farmed vineyard—hand tended, no use of herbicides and the vineyard ecosystem biodiversity encouraged through the preservation of a 10-acre natural, dry land forest in its center. Kelowna also developed a partnership with Okanagan Similkameen Wildlife Habitat Stewardship to identify and enhance wildlife diversity. They have specially constructed nesting boxes to encourage populations of beneficial bird species like the Western Bluebird and sparrows, as well as newly installed bat nesting boxes to boost their populations on site. This is part of ongoing work with the Okanagan Similkameen Stewardship Society, working toward long-term solutions that allow people, vineyards and wildlife to coexist.

Architectural & Construction Trends Of Successful Wineries

Cyndi

By Gerald Dlubala

From coast to coast, the winery business is booming. With the latest statistics showing upwards of 8,300 wineries in North America, the competition is stronger than ever, making it critical for winemakers to build brand loyalty early, ideally within the first visit or tasting experience. Although the construction of a winery is an industrial project, it’s also about creating an enjoyable, customer driven, retail environment. Success in the wine industry depends on the work of many individuals but always starts with a thorough plan of action.

Planning Is Critical

Burt Shell, Director of Group Sales for industry leader Nucor Buildings Group, has over 30 years of experience and product knowledge in the metal building industry, including significant experience in the construction of wineries.

“Planning is always essential, and we do it in a uniquely different way than most companies. We use visual selling through 3D technology. With virtual reality (Oculus), we can walk you through your entire building and operation process before starting any construction. From start to finish on a 3D level, you will see and experience the flow of product and people through your entire facility, allowing you to make necessary changes before breaking ground rather than during the construction process. This step alone will save money on building costs, automatically raising your return on investment,” Shell says.

Nucor prides themselves in their strengths in design function and material performance to create the perfect environment for the owner’s business within the available footprint.

“The winery business is a very complicated one,” says Shell. “You need various professionals at different times to not only make it work but also to make sure it is set up to make a profit. Once we begin, we have the ability to integrate design flexibility from the tasting rooms to barrel storage to manufacturing and production facilities, bringing economic savings to the owner. Once we know the specifications of what we’re dealing with, we plan upfront for things like large, open spaces to accommodate better flow and traffic; the installation of properly rated racking systems for barrel storage; and even specific underground rebar needs for proper foundation related issues. We make sure our structure fits the business needs so we can confidently pass the project on to the architects and design-build teams to finish what they need to do; knowing that any profile panel, exterior cladding, or special treatments chosen will fit our structural frames and supports. This is the way to build for long term performance.”

Tom O’Neil, principal architect at O’Neil Architects in Leesburg, Virginia, agrees. “Upfront planning is critical, and time spent on a detailed master plan will always save money up front. Everything takes space, and from our experience, your vision will likely take more space than originally thought, so situate the buildings in your plan to allow for design changes or future expansion. Be aware of location-specific demands. For example, here in Virginia, you have to look at things like wastewater systems because you need a well-based wastewater system before you even get started.”

Building Flexibility Is A Must

“Using straightforward buildings is best,” says O’Neil. “We begin with a simple approach, using either a post-frame style of construction, similar to a pole barn, or pre-engineered metal. These are the type of buildings that are the easiest to modify and change.”

“It’s important to be able to add as much character through add-ons and treatments as needed,” says Shell. “That initial flexibility with your framing and structure is what will ultimately make it possible to accommodate the treatments and add-ons that you need for your buildings.”

“And some of those add-on treatments may astonish your customers,” says Doug Yancy, advertising manager for Varco Pruden, a world leader in innovative pre-engineered steel building systems. “Tasting rooms, barrel storage and labs can all be steel framed buildings with your choice of exterior cladding. While the structure is metal, the look and feel can have the traditional appearance of a European winery. Buildings should naturally be tall enough to accommodate the huge tanks of a wine production plant, and while most beverage production facilities are spread out, featuring low pitch roofs (1:12 or 2:12), most of our designed wineries have a more architectural look and feel with higher pitched roofs, as much as 4:12 or 6:12.”

“The necessary basic setup for a winery includes the crush pad production area, the building for your tank/barrel storage and the caser area,” says O’Neil. “These can be done as simple or expensive as you want, with the preferred types of materials dependent on how much customer access you’re willing to allow. Do you want to show off the barrel storage room with barrels staged in racks? The fermentation tanks, or bottling/casing area? Of course, you need the tasting room because that’s the easiest and quickest way to make money and build a following.”

Shana Reiss is the principal architect for Reiss Design Studios, an architectural design firm based in San Luis Obispo, California. She has extensive experience in winery planning and building and has seen activity increase over the past three years for both new winery projects as well as those that were, for one reason or another, on hold.

“Winery facilities need to be easy to clean and maintain. Buildings here are more pre-engineered now since no one wants wood involved in the production facilities due to the chances of TCA contamination. We use a lot of insulated metal panels for quick construction and easy sanitation. Flooring is usually concrete with an epoxy coating to prevent the staining and damaging effects of wine. Food grade trench drains are perfect for cleanup, and the fermentation tanks are generally stainless steel.”

Trending Now

“The hottest way to go currently is the boutique winery route,” says Reiss. “These small-batch wineries produce less than 20,000 cases annually and have more flexibility to try new things within a smaller footprint. They can react to trends faster and get those products in the hands of consumers for tasting.”

“Within the design of a winery and production facility, new trends have started and continued to develop,” says Reiss. “One of these, especially in California, is the focus on water conservation. Wastewater removal is one of the biggest costs in winery production because of general cleaning, sanitation of equipment and vineyard irrigation.  The amount of water used can be tremendous, as is then the cost for the wastewater removal. So a conscientious effort to use less water is considered a win across all areas, saving money throughout the production process to final wastewater removal.”

There are other cost-saving and sustainable measures that can be implemented during construction.

Shell says “It starts with using recycled steel, and Nucor is the largest, recycling 1200 pounds of steel every second of every day, 365 days a year. Additionally, we’ve seen thermal performance taking shape as an energy saver, introducing solar panel installation where possible. You might not see them as a consumer, but they can be used on the production facilities out back, installed on roofs or out of sight on ground mounted assemblies. Insulated pre-engineered panels can help with temperature stability in the storage rooms and with summer cooling — customers like feeling like they’re outdoors, even when not, so natural daylight lighting systems are big. Another thing we do is barcode our trailers of materials so that when they are delivered, we can scan the trailer and place the materials specifically at the location that they will be used. We move our product one time only to put it up, speeding the erection process by the subcontractors having all of their needed materials within reach.”

Yancy says, “There has been an increase In the use of skylights for ambient lighting. Although we haven’t seen a great deal of requests for rainwater collection, green and LEED strategies are being implemented, just not necessarily in widely recognizable ways, such as recycled steel content or efficient water run-off designs. We have seen a good mix of wood and stone interiors as well as modern designs on the exteriors.”

“Wineries are trying to be greener, but it’s not considered a driving factor,” says Reiss.” Many factors in going green depend on your production site and surrounding environmental landscape. Some areas just can’t execute every green method or idea, so they have to work with what they have control over. These include low-cost lighting, more efficient night cooling techniques, using pre-engineered, insulated metals in their construction, recycling of wastewater and more efficient layouts (less movement of wine equals less labor involved). Wineries can use automated systems such as dedicated pump over systems, lessening the need for someone to physically be on hand around the clock to perform these duties. There are also solar panels for electrical assistance and very productive and clean automated picking machines, allowing the produce to go directly into the tanks without the need for extensive manual labor. Future efficiency and savings may be in the actual grape farming because it is becoming so much more efficient.”

“We’ve done the LEED certified, but that’s strictly up to the owner,” says O’Neil. “The buildings can be sustainable by using recycled barn wood, glass or old metal roofing for building components and décor, but it’s still mostly wood and metal, usually of local origin.”

The Importance of Tasting Rooms

From an architectural design point-of-view, tasting rooms demand special treatment because of the maturing wine market and massive competition. At a minimum, tasting rooms should be covered spaces, made out of materials that complement the winemaker’s story. Wineries that are successful tend to have and promote a storyline. Consumers want to know about the winemaker, their path, and the origins of their process from the vine through the bottle. The space should be tailored to the crowd, which can be one larger room or several smaller rooms, opening up and connecting when the business is scheduled or expected to be larger. As day trips bring more consumers in, the tasting room is where the experiences will happen, so the quality level of that room and décor rises. It’s integral to the customer experience.

“The tasting room is where image comes in,” says O’Neil. “You’re letting your customers know your identity and the story of your wine. Scenery counts, so the wineries here that have that great mountain view and more natural appeal can use more glass in their design and get away with less décor. Others that don’t have that view have to work harder with décor and design.”

“Tasting rooms should tell your story while providing exceptional customer service and flow,” says Reiss. “They’re more numerous now, but you don’t want a large tasting room that can appear empty. Tasting rooms should be intimate, so they provide a lively experience to share with friends, yet still be a value-oriented space, because it is the first point of sales, and direct sales are always best.”

Return Visits Are The Goal

Wineries are looking for more than one-time visits, and the architecture should help achieve that goal by designing attractive and welcoming tasting rooms and event spaces for live music, private parties and weddings. Architects can create distinct atmospheres with natural elements, such as lounge areas that mimic living rooms. As more and younger consumers are enjoying wine, they bring expectations of not only great wine in a great atmosphere but also great food served from chefs in residence. Architecturally designed spaces allowing the winery to partner with trending restaurants or local cheesemakers for ticketed pairings events or classroom opportunities can deepen customer experiences and translate into return trips, extended stays and brand loyalty. Many now offer residential villas, condos or a bed-and-breakfast experience for an extended wine lifestyle vacation. Wineries must formulate an experience that coincides with their story, and like any great story, the beginning and end are critical.

Seeking Wine Education? WSET levels are the way to go

Cyndi

By Jessica Spengler

Wine education is a constant throughout the wine industry. From continuing education to specialized training for Sommeliers and wine professionals, quality wine education is essential. Even wine journalists, seeking to understand the industry and increase their wine appreciation continue their education through classes offered by organizations like the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET).

WSET is a globally recognized, not-for-profit educational organization that specializes in quality wine education throughout the world. From their flagship school in London, they offer qualifications in wines, spirits and sake to professionals and enthusiasts both in-person and online. These classes include first, second and third level qualifications in wines, spirits and sake, and a fourth level diploma in wines and spirits. WSET does not provide a path to Sommelier, but their classes are award-winning and highly rated. Their goal is to provide knowledge for anyone looking to further their career in wine, whether that be future Sommeliers, industry professionals, journalists or wine enthusiasts.

  The Grapevine Magazine was invited to participate in the online WSET Level 2 Wine and Spirits qualification through the American Wine School, and I was chosen to take the course. It’s an in-depth look at wine regions throughout the world focusing on grape varietals, production of wine, and how those wines will ideally look and taste. The course also focuses on labels, teaching students the terms and references relevant to determining the quality and details of a wine. It ends with a short lesson on spirits, going through production and labeling.

American Wine School was founded in 2001 by Marianne Frantz, who holds a Diploma in Wine & Spirits from the WSET and has also earned the Advanced Sommelier qualification from the Court of Master Sommeliers. American Wine School is an Approved Program Provider for WSET with a presence in seven states. They also offer wine tastings and events throughout Chicago, Cleveland,  Cincinnati, Columbus and Pittsburgh.

The Course

The value of the class is evident immediately. Class materials are presented as a packet and include a textbook, workbook and a guide for describing wines, called “WSET Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting Wine” or SAT. These materials are invaluable during the class and have personally come in handy for me since. I took the course online, so the remaining resources were accessible through the WSET classroom website, including a forum to post assignments, tastings and questions, as well as the weekly course breakdown and lessons.

Students must purchase any wine and food for tasting during the class. I recommend budgeting accordingly because, to get a good sense of a wine style, you should be tasting mid to high-end wines, which run a little more expensive. Not that you need to spend hundreds of dollars, but a $5-10 wine generally isn’t the best example of a style, and quality is important for the course.

WSET qualifications are for anyone who takes wine seriously and is willing to put in the work. The class is broken down week by week into lessons and assignments focusing on a particular subject. Tasks include analyzing labels, food tastings designed to train the palate, and of course, tasting wine. The work isn’t necessarily time-consuming; however, there’s enough of a workload that if you don’t follow the week to week plan, you will fall behind. There’s too many tastings, too much reading, and a lot of serious prep that goes into it.

In addition to assignments and tastings are comprehensive weekly tests that cover everything you’ve learned over the week. If there’s one thing I learned while doing this course, it’s that everything you read and learn is important – from how the sun affects hillside vines to the crazy amount of AVAs in California – it all matters in the course, and in the industry, and you can’t learn it all in a week.

To guide you through your courses, WSET provides a tutor who will evaluate your work and be there to answer any questions. They are the unofficial teacher of the course, attempting to keep people on task and offering suggestions if they notice problems or patterns in assignments or tastings. Having someone available in this regard allows students to find out what they’re doing wrong and improve it. I wish I’d taken better advantage of this resource. They would have been particularly useful for me during tastings, something that I felt I didn’t have the sort of grasp other students did.

Tastings

Each week, students were given a list of wine styles to choose a minimum of three for tastings. These wines reflected those covered in the weekly lessons. Tastings were to be conducted using the SAT guidelines from the card and posted on the forums for the tutor to access. The SAT provides specific language for students on describing appearance, nose, palate, aroma and flavor, and conclusions. By providing a standardized language guide, all students stay on the same page and don’t get overly particular. This guide was invaluable for someone like me with an unsophisticated pallet. It helped to describe what I was tasting without me knowing the specific flavor. I may not know when there are subtle hints of lychee, but I do taste a bit of citrus.

I did find some fault with the comments on student tastings. Once or twice I was flat out told that my evaluation was wrong, and that was it. The critiques weren’t cruel or even inaccurate; as I said, my palate isn’t the most top-notch; but they also didn’t offer any tips or solutions as to how or why I may have gotten it wrong. Moreover, while reaching out for an explanation was a possibility that I’ll admit I did not take, it seems flawed that suggestions weren’t offered unless I sought them out.

Organization

While the class was excellent, the behind-the-scenes stuff was less so. I did not receive my classroom resources until about three days before the course was meant to begin, despite having signed up two months prior, and the recommendation that you read the first weeks lesson before the start of class.

The day of my test also changed twice, as did the location. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the site had moved, and when I showed up the day of, myself and another woman were quite confused as to what was happening. It turns out we were across the city from where the test was meant to take place. To the credit of American Wine School, they sent an Uber, and we were still able to sit for the examination.

The Test

Online students must take the test in-person at one of the American Wine School testing sites. I took my test in Chicago at Binny’s Beverage Depot, along with about six other people. Despite having studied and feeling well prepared, I walked out of that test sure I would not be receiving any certificate. It was hard. I don’t say that with any sense of annoyance; I just did not prepare as well as I’d hoped. I studied, took practice tests and reread the text, so I thought I knew what to expect, but when it came down to it, I was shocked at how little I knew. I was legitimately surprised when I received word that I passed and would be getting a certificate and pin. I still can’t quite believe it.

Conclusion

Despite some organizational issues, I found the class comprehensive, challenging, informative and rewarding. It was not for the faint-of-heart or for anyone with only a passing interest in wine or unwillingness to study. For those willing to take it seriously, the WSET level 2 award provides a stellar, satisfying, and thorough education. If you are looking to forward your wine education, whether you are an industry professional or just starting out on your wine journey, then the WSET classes are right for you.

For more information on WSET levels and class schedules, go to wsetglobal.com

Designer Yeasts

Cyndi

By Nan McCreary

The primary role of yeast in winemaking is to convert the sugars in grape-must into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Selecting a yeast is one of the most critical decisions in the winemaking process. The yeast strain you choose will affect how quickly fermentation begins and how rapidly it progresses, as well as impact the aromas, color and character of the final product. While all winemakers use a yeast called Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, within this species are hundreds of strains designed to produce a myriad of characteristics.

To guide winemakers through the yeast selection process, The Grapevine Magazine talked with legendary Napa Valley winemaker Tom Eddy, who has been making wines since the 1970s. Eddy started his brand, Tom Eddy Winery, in 1991, and is well-known for his elegant, long-lived Napa Valley Cabernets. He also parlayed his training, experience and education at the University of California, Davis into a successful consulting business with a broad client base.

The Grapevine Magazine (GV): Next to the actual fruit, yeast selection is one of the most important elements in determining the quality and style of wine. What changes have you seen in options available to winemakers today?

 Tom Eddy (TE): The technology in the microbiological aspects of winemaking has changed drastically in the last 30 to 40 years, and there have been clear and exciting transformations in the use of different yeasts. When I began my winemaking career in the 70s, there were just two types of yeasts, a Montrachet for white wine and Pasteur Red for red wine. It frustrated me that the Montrachet was sluggish, and you never knew when it was going to finish fermenting. On the other hand, the Pasteur finished really fast and often left behind residual hydrogen sulfide, which smelled like rotten eggs. We never challenged this because we’d always done it that way.  We just had to adjust the temperatures and keep a close eye on fermentation. We didn’t challenge the importance of nutrients inherent in grape juice either. In other words, yeasts perform at different levels based on the availability of amino acids and other compounds, and this varies from vineyard to vineyard and season to season. We realized we needed a certain amount of fertilizer in the yeast, but we didn’t think about it to the point where we analyzed it ahead of time.

  GV:  In the 70s and the 80s, California entered the modern era of winemaking, and began to create wines that could compete on an international scale. Did advancements occur in the quality and availability of yeasts?

TE: Yes, in the early 80s, the industry really started to change. Microbiologists began to get creative, and suddenly, for the first time, a new yeast came out. It was called Prise de Mousse (PDM) and it was touted as a yeast that would do everything you wanted it to do: it didn’t need a lot of nitrogen, it didn’t ferment so quickly that it would foam over and create a mess, nor did it necessarily produce a lot of stinky wine. Fermentation was also very efficient, so you could turn a tank over in five to six days instead of nine or 10, which was very important in the logistics of the winery. PDM was a hot ticket for four or five years. I can remember converting everything I did to PDM in those days, but then I began to question the quality of the wines because they seemed to taste somewhat muted and had lost some of their varietal characteristics. Microbiologists that I respected came to the same conclusion. We determined that the problem was in the very efficiency that made this yeast so popular. In fact, the fermentation was so efficient that it created less heat but modified the chemical reactions in the juice that give us the wonderful fruity aromas, particularly in white wine. So suddenly the hunt is on for another yeast.  Now, because of developments in global communication, technology is spreading, and European suppliers are coming to the U.S. to present products that are totally unique to the wine business.  This begins the era of designer yeasts.

  GV:  What exactly is a designer yeast?

Microbiologists are looking at the DNA of yeasts and figuring out how they can manipulate it to produce desirable characteristics. For instance, they may like yeast “B3,” but that yeast produces hydrogen sulfide on occasion, so they manipulate the DNA to reject elemental sulfur. This guarantees that your wine will never have that stinky, rotten egg smell. Another yeast, “B4” for example, does well with Chardonnay and produces the buttery characteristics that many winemakers like. Now, this all sounds good, but once you’ve manipulated that portion of the helix, you may have changed the DNA so that it has undesirable attributes, like slow fermentation. For the first time, scientists are looking at all the issues that concern winemakers—elimination of hydrogen sulfide, control of fermentation, production of desirable aromas, even the ability to use juice that is low in nitrogen because it’s been a difficult year—to make what we call designer yeast.

  GV:  With so many options, what are your challenges as a winemaker?

TE: I have to decide what I want to be, what I want to achieve, and what problems I have coming into this harvest. I now have 152 yeasts to choose from, so I set up an Excel spreadsheet with 15 different characteristics that I want or don’t want. I look at the wine variety, and the growing conditions and I check boxes to decide what yeast to use with this wine, this year. Every harvest is different, and the yeasts will perform only if they have sufficient nutrients. So, a few weeks before harvest, when we’re doing normal sugar sampling and acid testing, we also run analyses on nutrients to determine levels of nitrogen, ammonia levels and amino acids. If we’re low, we could add fertilizer, but then that may cause other problems. The yeasts may get so excited that fermentation stops at a certain level, leaving me with wines that taste hot and flat with muted floral flavors. In this case, I go back to my spreadsheet and find a yeast that ferments easily with low nitrogen, and I choose that yeast.

 GV: Are these wines expensive?

 TE: Yes, they are expensive. Just like new drugs, it takes years and years of research to make changes in DNA, and the yeast companies need to recapture their costs. You can buy a 10-pound drum of the early yeasts —Montrachet and Pasteur— for $10 a pound. Ten pounds will take care of your entire harvest. Designer yeasts run between $40 and $60 a pound. In selecting a yeast, you have to look at your bottom line. If you’re producing 100,000 bottles of five-dollar-a-bottle wine in a 100,000-gallon tank, you have a very price-sensitive program, where two or three cents a bottle cost could make or break you. In this case, you could go back to the original Montrachet or Pasteur, or even the PDM, and it would probably be okay. On the other hand, if you’re producing a $100 bottle of wine, using a designer yeast that may add 25 cents to the bottle cost is not that significant, and could improve the quality of your wine and give you an advantage over your peers.

  GV: Do you use designer yeast at your winery?

  TE: We’re small —we only make 4,000 cases a year— and no, we don’t use a designer yeast for every single batch of wine. If we make 20 batches in a year and find that a certain batch will produce a certain kind of wine, a certain kind of fermentation and a certain quality level, we might use the same designer yeast for five different lots, or 30 percent of our production. By producing that much wine, we can buy yeast in 10-pound boxes instead of one-pound boxes, which is much less expensive. It’s pretty easy to calculate how much yeast you need. The industry standard is to add two pounds of yeast per one thousand gallons of juice. One pound isn’t enough to kick off fermentation, and three pounds is overkill, and the wine will ferment too fast.  Because we know our vineyards and what they need, we can usually budget ahead of time for yeast, additives and some level of nitrogen.

  GV:  As a consultant, what types of yeast-related problems do you typically see among winemakers?

TE: A lot of winemakers believe that if you buy a yeast in a specific category, that yeast will be just what you need because all yeast today is first-rate.  However, these winemakers often don’t know what’s in their juice, so they throw the kitchen sink into the mix—every fertilizer, every chemical, every additive— and cross their fingers, not knowing what the impact will be.  In fact, what you’ve added can cause other problems. You can over fertilize, for example, and cause the yeast to explode to the extent that they start to die off because of high alcohol, and then some other organism takes off because of the high nitrogen and basically spoils your wine. I see this all the time. Often, I can identify the problem by interviewing the winemaker, looking at the timeline or testing for spoilage organisms. There is usually a reason for spoilage and ruined wine.

GV: Are resources available to help winemakers understand oenology so they can avoid these types of problems?

 TE: Yes, many young people coming out of schools like UC Davis, Cal Poly or Fresno State are learning about the more sophisticated aspects of wine technology. They are reading more, they’re studying, and they’re listening to podcasts or participating in webinars that can answer questions related to common problems. Because of the internet, information is available quickly. It’s not like in the old days when you had to wait a week to meet your peers at a local coffee shop and exchange ideas.

GV: Tom, with all your years of experience and training, you are a virtual walking encyclopedia of the wine industry.  Thank you for sharing your knowledge with The Grapevine Magazine.

TE:  You’re very welcome. Anytime.