By Neal Johnston
Mexico appears on the horizon as one of the most important and relevant wine producing regions of the Americas, or countries of the New World. A fascinating example, Mexico has a rich and wonderful history. The ‘Rio Grande’ separates the USA and Mexico all the way to the Gulf. Immediately west of El Paso the boarder runs more or less in a straight line from east to west where it reaches the Pacific coast of San Diego. Some two thousand miles from Mexico’s northern border with Guatemala.
In past times Missionaries went to extraordinary lengths to carry their first discovered grapevines accompanied by ‘conquistadores’, or conquerors in a determined effort to reach Mexico. This was done over four hundred years ago. The present day wine industry in Mexico is around sixty years old. There has always been an underlying bone of contention between Mexico and Spain which has caused something of a hidden rivalry with bitter undertones. Their has of course been a degree of speculation throughout history as to why relations between the two countries have been frayed for so long. The Spaniards maintained a deeply rooted rivalry in view of a Mexican advance towards the growth and cultivation of some of the earliest discovered vines of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Spain in many ways felt the spark of jealousy as their wine industry forbade the planting of vines. While Mexico continued to make headway over Spain, the rivalry grew. Over the course of time and on down through the centuries there has been a certain amount of leeway given to the notion of dispersing such division and angst, amid a continuing advancement on the procurement and growth of wine and winemaking throughout much of Mexico in particular.
Mexico gained its independence in the latter part of the nineteenth century. By this stage the country had begun to move in with the times, and in the midst of a post-industrial climate, Mexico steadily began to grow more notably in stature and strength from independence. This was understandably liberating and good for Mexico, but deeply frustrating for the Spanish. The continuing change and progression of ideas stirred a sense of optimism as well as the imagination, and taste buds of many aspiring grape farmers across Mexico. It was at round this time that the first two wineries were built. ‘The Bodegas Ferrino’, at Cuatro Cieneges in Coahuila, and the ‘Bodegas de Santo’, in Baja California, both of which encouraged and sustained the tradition of growing two grape varieties in particular. The Criolla, and Mission grape traditions.
Further development came Mexico’s way when at the close of the nineteenth century. James Concannon, a Californian, successfully spearheaded a campaign which encouraged the President of Mexico at that time, Profiro Diaz, to take divisive action towards improving viticulture. The aim of the initiative was to show that it was indeed possible to develop Mexican wines to a much better commercial standard than was thought previously, by adopting and using specific v. vinfera- vines imported from Livermore, California. This realisation and striking piece of ingenuity led to the formation and immediate importing of several million individual handmade cuttings. These cuttings were then garnered and planted broadly throughout Mexico’s landscape. In anticipation of the two grape varieties imminent arrival, the next move was to ensure that at least one Bodega would be established in every state.
Unfortunately for Mexico this early, spirited, and challenging attempt at grapevine cultivation was overshadowed and oppressed by the inevitable turmoil that came with the upheaval, destruction and loss of life and land that ensued during the troubled and turbulent times of the Mexican revolution. A revolution which began in earnest in1910, and lasted a further ten years.
In the aftermath of the revolution Mexico’s vineyards were still very much regarded as being in a state of decline, and needing plenty of attention in order to come back more readily to fruition. A further, even greater concerted effort was brought underway by the ‘Association Nacional de Vitivinicultores’. In 1929 it was suggested that the destructive nature of warfare during the period of revolution caused Mexico to lose much of its viticulture history. A great number of fresh newly planted and carefully cared for vineyards now lay ravaged, ruined, and torn by the effects of warfare. For Mexico the established identity of grape cultivation had been all but severed and lost. Or so it would have seemed. The next step must have seemed like a mountain to climb for Mexico. To miraculously resurrect and negotiate a determined plan of action to reinvigorate growth was the way forward, and ultimately this is what led Mexico into the modern era. The dawn and birth of the very youngest wine industry in the Americas. Mexico’s wine industry was in its genesis stage.
Vineyards were developed in certain designated areas. Saltillo, Mexico City, Aguascalientes, Coahuila, Durango and Chihuahua. The Mexican Government gave an enormous stimulus boost to its wine industry at the end of the second world war. By raising duties and enforcing quota restrictions on imported wines, this meant that the prices of US, French and Spanish wines rose to five times that of Mexican wine. As a result of government intervention the reactivation of vineyards flourished to unprecedented new heights. Coming out of the cold, and a troubled past, the determination and sheer willpower of Mexico has shone through as a leading example. In essence they overcame a period of great adversity. Mexico has gained the respect it deserves and can be understood throughout the world wine map of today as an exemplary blueprint for hard work, grit and above all, determination. It is a symbol for for all of these.
Plotted acreages of vineyards subsequently catapulted from 4,000 to 175,000 acres over time, and these are still alive and growing in numbers today. The steadfast approach gives a superb real sense of time and place, and adds real flavour, character and zeal to the evolution of vines in Mexico.
Getting the Label Right
When we purchase a bottle of red, white, or rose hot of the shelf in supermarkets today the same sense of history can and should be applied to each and every label of every bottle. Giving not only its full contents description, but also in bringing us up to date historically of its greater significance. More attention to detail like this can surely catch the eye of the more discerning consumer amongst us. As well through word of mouth, the influence and measure of Mexico’s historical influence on the development of wines of the new world will surely catch on now even more. A developing wine country in many respects. If I was in charge of labelling all of Mexico’s wine I would make sure as a top priority that there was a well written indication on each label of the evocative heroism and strong work ethic of Mexico as not only a developing nation but as a surviving one too, and how this might bring us up to the present day. It is precisely this type of true to life, vivid background story that is so very appropriately befitting to Mexico. This is what makes Mexico’s wine so special, appealing, and unique. It is simply bursting with history and flavour. By law, and in this day and age, Mexico’s vineyards are denied single ownership. Their next best alternative is combined dual ownership between two families.
Further away form the east and west coasts we find the heartland of Mexican wine country today. The arid climate is more favourable here, weather conditions are temperate and generally good. The North western border of Mexico lies at an latitude of thirty two degrees North facing. This means that for the whole of Mexico, its landscape is situated within the hot sub-equatorial region. This can in more normal conditions be detrimental to producing good, healthy, successful vines. Mexico’s central plateau is on average some 1,500 metres above sea level. For every 300 metres of elevation there is a drop of 1.7 degrees Celcius in temperature. The altitude of the plateau therefore compensates nicely for an unfavourable latitude.
The days in fall see especially good growth take shape or Mexican grapes. While the days may be shorter and nearer to the equator, the drop in night time temperatures can be quite dramatic, and this presents the threat and danger of frost damage. These conditions can fluctuate and become erratic.
An unpredictability factor like this links into the greater looming effect and threat of climate change in the twenty first century, and indeed beyond that. Rainfall on the whole is not very consistent in Mexico. This means that some of their grapes will need more attention to detail than others in the form of irrigation from a further reduction in water supplies. Conversely, some areas can become overwhelmed by the heavy rainfall and even flooded out completely during the growing season. Interestingly around 90% of Mexico’s grapes are used for brandy production as the range of climate is generally suitable for this. They are also famous for their Tequila. There are primarily eight individual regions of vineyards throughout Mexico today. From north to south these are- Baja California, Hermosillo-Caborca, on the Sonora river. Delicias in Chihuahua. Laguna and Torreon on the border of Coahuila and Durango. Parras and Saltillo in Coahuila. The Fresnillo-Ojocaliente region in Zacatecas. Aguascalientes, and the San Juan de Rio, located north of Mexico City.
During the 1980’s there was a notable period of resurgence for winemaking in Mexico when production reached an output level of four million cases per year. The comparatively smaller scale of production to that of other wine producing countries meant that Mexico experienced something of a setback in profits. Baja, California is well known for producing ninety per cent of Mexican wine sells, and distributes one and a half million barrels per year today. The quality is different here and it is thought of as a considerably improved all rounder. A much better drink in the glass than many previous efforts.
Opinion on Mexico is divided, with some down grading the system, believing that the lower level production line is detrimental to their greater success. To compete on the world stage today, you need to be adept and quick thinking to follow and embrace change and to become more scientifically aware of these changes. Changes in technology for instance, never mind keeping up with changes in our global weather systems. Recent speculation suggests the ‘Valley of Guadalupe’, in Mexico to be the next big region, with comparisons in some quarters of the industry to that of the famous Napa Valley Region. Mexico is a developing wine country. What sets it apart in my opinion is the legacy of truly rich and romantic beginnings. It is set apart as a surviving wine country, having battled its way through upheaval and revolution and still coming through as strong. Today Mexico’s wine exports reach a total of thirty eight countries world wide, and many of their finest vintages have received the high standing accolade of international award.
Taxation at forty per cent per bottle makes it quite hard for wine to face up to the competition of beer and tequila for Mexico. The good news is that Mexicans are enjoying their wine more now than ever before. Their taste is steadily growing. More often than not imports on wine make their way into the Mexican market via countries like Chile, Australia and New Zealand. There is a lot to be said for not only supporting, but having faith in the underdog.
