What Is a Brand, really?

By: Susan DeMatei, Founder of WineGlass Marketing

The word “brand” is notoriously difficult to define in marketing. If we were talking about a ranch brand—the kind seared onto livestock to signify ownership—that’s easy to understand. But in marketing, a brand is not a physical thing. It’s a symbolic construct. It’s not the label on the bottle or the winery’s logo or even the product itself. Rather, it’s the entire perception a consumer holds in their mind about your company, your wine, your people, and everything you collectively represent.

  A brand is a conceptual identity that differentiates you from your competitors. It can be shaped by your name, your origin story, the design of your label, the personalities involved in your winery, your tasting room experience, your packaging, your email tone, your partnerships, or even how you respond to a customer complaint. All these elements come together to form the intangible yet powerful idea of your brand. It is, quite literally, everything that signals who you are and why someone should care.

The Brand Illusion & its Real-World Value

  So why do marketers spend so much time discussing something that isn’t technically real? Because the effects are very real. Trust in a brand drives buying behavior. According to a 2021 report by Salsify, 90 percent of consumers said they are willing to pay more for a product from a brand they trust. And in a study by Deloitte Digital and Twilio, 68 percent of surveyed consumers reported they had spent more with a trusted brand—on average, 25 percent more.

Graphs entitled most trusted brands in the united states in 2024

  This isn’t just theoretical. Every year, major consulting firms and publications like Forbes and Newsweek publish lists of the most trusted brands. These aren’t obscure B2B companies or trendy startups. They’re names like Coca-Cola, Kleenex, and Whirlpool—brands that have become synonymous with quality, consistency, and confidence. In categories like health, beauty, and especially food and beverage, trust is essential.

  Food and beverage, in fact, ranks as the most trusted industry in the U.S. According to Morning Consult’s 2022 study, 72 percent of adults expressed some level of trust in the sector. That number climbs to 84 percent among Baby Boomers and 82 percent among high-income consumers. For comparison, trust among Millennials is 67 percent, and among Gen Z, it’s just 62 percent. These generational and socioeconomic differences remind us that brand trust is not universal—it must be nurtured and earned within each target group.

graph titled most valuable brands worldwide in 2025

  The idea that a collection of products, messaging, and people can form something consumers trust enough to put into their bodies is no small feat. In wine, where the product is sensory and the market is crowded, that trust can decide between a sale and a pass.

  Make no mistake—this intangible identity has tangible value. Consider when Joe Wagner sold the Meiomi brand to Constellation Brands in 2015. Nothing tangible transpired: no winery, vineyards, or staff. What Constellation bought for $315 million was a name, a label, and a loyal following. They bought the brand. The value placed on these intangible assets of a brand is referred to as Brand Equity. That’s the power of branding.

People Buy Brands, Not Products

  Your brand includes your product, but it is not your product. This crucial distinction often gets blurred, especially in industries like wine, where so much attention is given to what’s in the bottle. The reality is that consumers rarely buy based on technical attributes alone. They buy based on what they feel the product represents. They buy based on brand.

  Consider Halls. Technically, it’s a British brand of mentholated cough drops, now owned by Mondelēz International. That’s the company. But that’s not why people grab a pack of Halls at the drugstore when they’re sick. And if we were to describe the product the way we often do in wine—focusing on precise formulation—we’d say something like: “This is a 5.8 milligram lozenge with lemon flavoring, containing 16.1 mg of menthol and 8.1 mg of eucalyptus globulus leaf essential oil.”

  Informative? Maybe.

Persuasive? Not even close.

  Halls doesn’t sell ingredients. It sells empowerment. The brand message is clear: we know you’re indispensable to your family, workplace, and life. A cold shouldn’t stop you, and Halls won’t let it. It promises to clear your symptoms so you can keep going. That’s the brand. And it’s working—Nielsen reports Halls’ sales grew more than 32% in 2023, a surge not driven by a change in formula, but by a clear and resonant brand promise.

  This is the essence of brand power. People don’t buy what a product is. They buy what it means. They buy it because of how it makes them feel, how it fits their life, and what it says about them. Brands create shorthand for decision-making, simplify the overwhelming, and reinforce identity. That’s true in cough drops, and it’s absolutely true in wine.

So… How Do You Protect (and Strengthen) Your Brand Right Now?

  Here are a few no-nonsense steps you can take this week to make sure your brand’s identity doesn’t slip into witness protection:

1.    Google Yourself (and Don’t Flinch):

      What comes up first? Your website? Yelp? A two-year-old event listing? Your digital first impression is your storefront — make sure it says what you want it to.

2.   Audit Your Touchpoints:

      Look at your website, social feeds, emails, tasting notes, signage, even your Wi-Fi password. Do they all sound like the same personality? If not, your brand’s having an identity crisis.

3.   Define What You Aren’t:

      Everyone wants to be “premium,” “authentic,” and “approachable.” Snooze. Get real about what makes you different — and what doesn’t fit your vibe. That’s where clarity (and memorability) live.

4.  Protect the Visuals:

      Your logo, colors, and photography are your visual handshake. Don’t let them be distorted, stretched, pixelated, or used on a mauve background because someone “thought it looked nice.” Create a style guide and guard it like a secret recipe.

5.   Train Your Team to Be Brand Ambassadors:

      Every person pouring, posting, or answering an email is your brand. Make sure they know how to represent it — and reward them when they do it well.

6.   Listen. Constantly:

      Brands aren’t built in boardrooms; they’re built in the wild. Track reviews, social comments, and customer emails. They’ll tell you what your brand actually means out there — not just what you hope it does.

The Bottom Line

  Your brand is the most valuable asset you own — even if it never shows up on a balance sheet. It’s perception, emotion, and memory all wrapped into one name. It’s what turns a tasting into loyalty, a label into a lifestyle, and a sale into advocacy.

So don’t just make great wine. Make a great impression — again, and again, and again.

Susan DeMatei founded WineGlass Marketing, the largest full-service, award-winning marketing firm focused on the wine industry. She is a certified Sommelier and Specialist in Wine, with degrees in Viticulture and Communications, an instructor at Napa Valley Community College, and is currently collaborating on two textbooks. Now in its 13th year, her agency offers domestic and international wineries assistance with all areas of strategy and execution. WineGlass Marketing is located in Napa, California, and can be reached at 707-927-3334 or wineglassmarketing.com

Popular Grapes Used in Sparkling Wine

line of multiple different wine bottles containing sparkling wine

By: Becky Garrison

In the May/June 2025 issue of The Grapevine Magazine, Michelle Kaufmann, vice president of communications at the Stoller Wine Group, reflects on the current status of Willamette Valley wines. “Pinot Noir is our king. Chardonnay is becoming Oregon’s queen. And right behind them as prince or princess is a sparkling wine with these two grapes coming together to make a beautiful marriage.” Other popular grapes used in sparkling wine production include Pinot Meunier and Pinot Blanc.

  According to Terry Culton, director of winemaking and vineyards for Willamette Valley Vineyards, because the Willamette Valley is very mild, they can focus on the perfect picks for making their sparkling wines. He reflects, “The cooler climate and coastal influence give us more picking options than many AVAs to get the pH and titratable acidity for sparkling and the brix (sugar) at just the level we want.”

  These premium sparkling wines are made in what’s designated as “the traditional method” (méthode traditionnelle or méthode champenoise). SOMM-TV summarizes the process used to make these sparkling wines. 

  From start to finish, this method takes the longest because of aging requirements and time-consuming steps like hand-riddling. These reasons can also translate to a higher price at the till. This method includes lees aging (where dead yeast cells sit in contact with the wine for an extended period), producing a wine with a prevalent autolytic character. Wine made in the traditional method often exudes aromas and flavors of brioche and butter along with a creamy textural mouthfeel.

  This labor-intensive process is famously used to make sparkling wine in the Champagne region of France, though wines made using the traditional method produced outside this region cannot be called champagne but must be referred to as “sparkling wines.” Other popular sparkling wines include Pét-nat (Pétillant Naturel, see The Grapevine Magazine, July/August 2025), bubbles (forced carbonation), Prosecco (charmat), and the ancestral method made by bottling and sealing the wine before it completes its first fermentation.

The Origins of Oregon’s Traditional Method Sparkling Wines

  Oregon’s early wineries took their inspiration from Burgundy with a focus on the region’s still wines — most notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. While there were a few limited sparkling wines in production, Argyle Winery (Dundee, Oregon) established in 1987 by Rollin Soles as the Dundee Wine Company has the distinction of being the first Willamette Valley winery to establish a dedicated sparkling program with every stage of the wines made in-house. (Currently, Soles is the founder and winemaker at Roco Winery in Newberg.)

  In 2025, Argyle Winery and the Pacific Northwest College of Art at Willamette University (PNCA) celebrated the 10th anniversary of Argyle’s acclaimed Art of Sparkling program with the release of the 2025 Art of Sparkling Collection. This internship program created by Argyle in collaboration with PNCA highlights the value of creativity and storytelling within the winemaking process. As per their press release, each year, three PNCA student artists are selected to participate in an immersive internship at Argyle, where they explore the connections between viticulture, winemaking, and artistic expression. Their work culminates in the creation of original label artwork featured on Argyle’s annual Art of Sparkling Collection.

man holding sparkling wine bottle and pushing cork off with his thumb causing the wine to spurt out of the bottle

Powering Oregon’s Grower Sparkling Wine Movement

  When Andrew Davis was serving as a winemaker at Argyle Winery, his fellow winemakers often asked for assistance in making sparkling wine. Because this region is aligned with Burgundy with a similar paradigm focusing on small producers and small production, these winemakers often lacked the expensive resources needed to produce sparkling wines. He had to always say “no” because they lacked the capacity to take on any custom clients.

  So Davis founded The Radiant Sparkling Wine Company (McMinnville, OR) in 2013 with the mission to provide Willamette Valley small-production sparkling wine producers with both the technical knowledge and specialized equipment required for the efficient production of award-winning world-class sparkling wines. According to his initial business plan, Davis would need between five to ten clients within the first three years for his business to remain feasible. The interest from winemakers far exceeded his expectations as he secured twice as many wineries within this period. To date, he has worked with over 40 wineries. While a few winemakers have gone on to form their own in-house sparkling wine program, most of them utilize the Radiant Wine Company to produce their traditional method sparkling wines.

  When Davis partners with a given winery, he begins with discussions regarding what kind of style of sparkling wine they want to create. Some questions that arise include: Do they want to be barrel or tank fermented? Do they want to be picking on the earlier side or the later side of the sparkling spectrum? Do they want to run all their wines through malolactic fermentation, or do they want to keep that raciness of having that malolactic acid intact?

  After these questions have been answered, the winery makes the base wine they want to use for their sparkling wine. Davis then takes this base wine and works with them to develop a unique yeast culture for use in their secondary fermentation. Next, the wine gets bottled and fermented in the bottle at the client’s winery. The winery then determines how long they want to sit on this wine and let it age on lees. Once the wine has aged to the winery’s specifications, Davis goes through the process of riddling, disgorging, labeling, and other aspects of preparing the sparkling wine for this winery.

  Here Davis strives to work behind the scenes with wineries so they can express themselves. As he notes, “If they start to go off the rails and do something ill-advised, I will tell them that. But I want everybody to be making their own style and creating their own wines and not just issue a Radiant thumb-stamped wine with a new label on it.”

  Among his more interesting partnerships is a sparkling 2021 Lust Vintage Blanc de Blanc he did recently for Lucid Wild. This venture marked the first time he collaborated with his wife Isabelle Meunier on creating a sparkling wine. Also, Davis is the current winemaker at Carlton-based Lyle-Barnett, one of a handful of méthode champenoise-only wineries in Oregon.

  In April 2025, Vinovate Custom Wine Services acquired The Radiant Wine Company. A press release announcing this development describes this transaction as “bringing together two pioneering forces to create the most robust set of resources available to Oregon producers pursuing traditional method sparkling wine.” When Davis started The Radiant Sparkling Wine Company, his business model was to collaborate with existing producers to help them make a sparkling product. What Vinovate brings to the table is the ability as a custom crush facility to take harvested grapes and produce the still wine that will then be turned into sparkling wine. This service will enable those aspiring vintners who do not have their own winery to bring a sparkling wine to market. As part of the acquisition, Davis will stay on as a full-time consultant for at least one year to support the transition and future growth.

Other Willamette Valley Sparkling Producers to Watch

  Arabilis Wines (Amity)

As PhD scientists turned winemakers, Kenny and Allison McMahon bring a thoughtful, hands-on approach to crafting small-batch still and sparkling wines made using sustainable means. They chose the Eola Amity Hills and Van Duzer Corridor AVAs due to the freshness and intensity of the base wines coming out of this region. They have the distinction of being the only winemaker in the Willamette Valley to make traditional method sparkling wines by doing tirage (aging on the lees after second fermentation) under cork where they disgorge by hand. All their styles are based on four pillars: precision, complexity, freshness, and high quality. Together these pillars add up to what they call “amplitude,” which they define as the “totality of the experience.”  Also, through their other company called The Oregon Sparkling Wine Co., they service other winemakers who want to make a traditional method of sparkling wine.

person hold wine glass while another person pours from a sparkling wine bottle into the glass

  Corollary Wines  (Amity)

Since its opening in 2017, sparkling-only producer remains completely dedicated to exploring the terroir of Oregon’s Willamette Valley and its expression in traditional method sparkling wine. In 2022 owners Jeanne Feldkamp and Dan Diephouse acquired 57 acres of land in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, where they planted estate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Blanc grapes. Their distinctive, design-forward tasting room, which opened on May 2024, was created as a spot to show people the life cycle of their sparkling wines beginning with the soil that produces the fruit leading into an immersive experience exploring how they designed their entire property around permaculture principles.

Domaine Willamette (Dayton) 

Jim and Jan Bernau founded Domaine Willamette to produce world-class, méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines. Bernau Estate Vineyard — home to Domaine Willamette — features 20 acres of biodynamically farmed, Demeter certified Biodynamic Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes. Visitors are welcomed with Oregon-inspired hospitality, including elevated wine and food pairings, immersive educational tours, stunning views, and beautiful landscaped gardens overlooking the valley.

Durant Vineyards (Dayton)

Under the direction of winemaker Spencer Spetnagel, Durant launched its sparkling wine program with the 2018 Brut and 2018 Blanc de Blancs. Guests can enjoy these wines at Durant’s outdoor tasting pavilion, which is thoughtfully designed to welcome visitors even during the Willamette Valley’s cooler winter months.

Soter Vineyards (Carlton)

In 1997 Tony and Michelle Soter founded this Demeter-certified Biodynamic vineyard with the mission to produce wines that embody a keen sense of place and purpose. Their sparkling offerings include their Planet Oregon Sparkling Rosé (aka Pop Fizz), One percent of total sales goes to 1% for the Planet with more $130,000 in sales donated to date.

Stoller Family Estate (Dayton)  This proud family-owned Certified B Corporation began its sparkling journey in 2013 with their Brut Rosé made with select Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from blocks planted in the late 1990s, complemented by Pinot Meunier planted in 2015. Also in 2015, they crafted their first Blanc de Blancs made from the late founder Bill Stoller’s original plantings of Chardonnay in celebration of the 20th anniversary of planting the vineyard. These two wines remain their flagship sparkling cuvées, crafted in limited quantities each year along with a multi-vintage program they began in 2019.

Method Oregon Elevates Oregon’s Traditional Sparkling Wine

Currently, more than one hundred Oregon wineries have a traditional method sparkling wine in their portfolio with most of these wineries based in the Willamette Valley. As a means of educating the consumer about traditional method sparkling wines and how they differentiate from other bubbles on the market, twenty-two Willamette Valley producers came together on July 26, 2025, for the Method Oregon Grand Tasting. Each bottle featured underwent at least 15 months of tirage to ensure quality and complexity in the glass and was then paired with local foods and educational programming. This event is slated to take place again on July 25, 2026.

Contact Seeding for Cold Stabilization

cold tanks in a facility

By: Tom Payette, Winemaking Consultant

Potassium Bitartrate Stabilization

  During the winemaking process and before bottling, there may be instability with a juice or wine termed Tartrate Stability or Tartrate Instability.  Unknowing customers often view these crystals as a fault and are therefore unsure of whether or not to consume the wine.  Once a customer is turned off by sediment, such as a tartrate precipitate, it may be difficult to get them to return to your label.  An in depth discussion below is to help winemakers achieve desired results in their cellars not undesired results in their bottled wine!  Winemakers are encouraged to make sure wines are bottled that will be sediment free.

Mechanism

  Tartrates are, very simply, a chemical salt made when potassium and tartaric acid combine making cream of tarter.  This cream of tarter [Potassium Bitatrtate] is harmless and is used, in the refined form, to cook meringues.  When most grapes arrive on the crush pad there is often a significant quantity of tartaric acid and potassium available in the grapes to result in instability.  Furthering the complication is the fact that the crystals are encouraged out of solution, forming further precipitation, in the presence of alcohol.  The fact that the winemakers have completed a successful fermentation will only force more of the crystals to precipitate. The processes to remove these crystals are largely a time temperature relationship.  Over time, and at low temperatures, most to all of the tartrates will form and fall out of solution.

3.65 pH Bifurcation *

  A very interesting phenomenon does exist with tartrate stabilization in wine made from grapes that all winemakers should understand.  (This may not apply to fruit wines) For a wine above a pH of 3.65, one should expect the pH to rise as tartrates form and fall out of solution.  For a wine below a pH of 3.65, the pH will drop to a lower pH value.  The shift, of the pH, is usually about 0.06 pH units but it can go as high as 0.19 pH units.  This knowledge can be used, factored into and forecasted by the winemakers’ ultimate plans for a certain wine’s final pH.

Tartaric acid and pH relationship

  Noting the example above, one must understand another relationship.  In both examples, whether the pH rises or lowers during tartrate stabilization, the tartaric acid level will decrease in the wine as it has formed in a salt and precipitated.  The tartaric acid has formed with potassium and become insoluble at that temperature during that time.  If the wine were to warm, however, the salt could re-soluablize negating the above statement.

Temperature and Potassium Bitartrate Formation

  As noted previously, the precipitation is largely influenced by a time temperature relationship.  Wine allowed to store over long periods of time will most likely achieve stability and it can be bottled.  With the advancement of sophisticated chilling systems in the wine industry, another process can be used.  Wines were often chilled for two to three weeks at 27 degrees F and allowed to drop their tartrates during this time.  This process was often successful but it did have its failures due to complexing agents that prevented the tartrates from forming.

Contact Seeding

  Perhaps contact seeding is more widely used today especially with wines that are blended late in the winemaking process or for getting younger wines ready for bottling sooner.  This process rarely fails and it does allow acid additions to be made even hours prior to using this process.  Some winemakers claim this action can be intrusive and beyond gentle processing; yet, others would have it no other way.

Procedure

  For those interesting in contact seeding, a procedure follows.  One must have an adequate chilling system, mixer, tanks that have little temperature stratification and a filtration system that can filter reasonably rapidly.  A properly sized plate and frame filter is sufficient for most winemakers while using a pore size pad of roughly 7 microns.  It is assumed the wine is clean enough to go through the filter pads without clogging and at a rate that will not allow the wine to warm too much potentially redisolving the tartrates previously formed during the filtration process. It is best to always check a wine first to make sure the wine is unstable before proceeding with this process.  One may be able to eliminate this process if the wine is already stable.

1.Chill the wine in need of stabilization to approximately 27 degrees F or potentially lower if the alcohol level is high enough and if greater stability is desired.  The wine will be stable at the seeding temperature of the wine at seeding so this temperature reduction step is critical.  (In the unusual case that the wine is below 8% alcohol, one would not want to chill the wine this cold.)

2.Start to mix the wine with a Guth or Keisel style tank mixer after the desired temperature has been reached.  Wait until the wine is thoroughly mixed and then double check that the desired wine temperature has been achieved and holding.  (Mixing may be done in a non-splashing pump over fashion with a pump, or two, that does not bleed any air into the system)

3.Weigh 3.0 (three) grams of Potassium bitartrate for every liter of wine in the tank.  Example:  for a 5000 liter batch of wine we would weight out 15000 grams of potassium bitartrate or 33.0 pounds.

4.Mix this amount of cream of tartar in water or wine before adding it to the tank.  (This step may be avoided but make sure no clumps exist in the cream of tarter and understand a larger quantity of oxygen may go into the wine if the substance is added dry)

5.Add the cream of tartar mixture to the chilled wine while mixing and mix for 3.0 hours or longer.  Make sure all the cream of tartar stays in solution and settling does not occur.  Make sure the temperature has remained at the desired level, as well, during this process.

6.After the 3.0 hours, mixing may stop but the chilling must remain on and continue to hold the desired temperature.

7.Allow the wine to settle overnight, or longer, if keeping the wine cold is not a concern.  [Recent research has shown an additional three days at 27.0 degrees F will improve the final conductivity results favorably on the wines.]  The wine could remain in contact with the seed for months as long as the temperature of the wine is not allowed to rise. After the overnight settling period and when filtration is desired. 

8.Vent the tank and start from the racking valve filtering on coarse filter pads making sure the filtration will go rapidly.  (One may want to remove any sediment “plug” first out of the racking valve by purging into a bucket before starting filtration.)

9.Continue to filter very cold into a clean, tartrate free, receiving tank.

10.Filter down under the manway door to the bottom of the tank as any filtration would be performed making sure to get all of the wine possible out of the tank.  Leave the solids behind.

11.If using water to push the wine through the filtration system keep in mind these crystals are water-soluble.  Make certain to use cold water and very limited amounts to not redissolve the cream of tartar making the wine unstable once again.  Do not dilute the wine with the water.  Perhaps consider using CO2 or nitrogen as well.

12.It is recommended to purge or sparge the receiving wine tank with Carbon Dioxide and the tank headspace of the wine tank being filtered during this process to eliminate or reduce the potential for oxygen uptake.  Other gases may be used such as nitrogen or argon.  (Keep in mind the principal that gases are more easily dissolved into a cold liquid solution during this step.)

13.Once the filtration is finished one may allow the tank of wine to warm and a representative sample of the tank’s contents may be taken to test that the cold stabilization action was successful and completed as desired.

14.Always double check the stability of the wine just prior to bottling and remember if more tartaric acid were added – the wine may become unstable once again.

Time / Energy / Quality

  The above process works very well to achieve cold stability.  The cream of tartar needed does have a cost factor yet the payback may be in the limited cooling cost for shorter periods of time during this process.  Others argue this process is damaging to the wine and it is over production on wine to support chilling a tank for 14 days or more.  This process will often work, yet the longer a winemaker stores a wine at cold temperatures – the more chance that the same wine will take in more dissolved gases.  This greatly increases the chance for oxygen uptake and potential oxidative reactions with that wine causes further damage.  Much of the above is determined by how each winemaker handles his or her wine and each factor should be considered.

Calcium Tartrate Stability Unaffected

  The reader should keep in mind that the process of cold stabilization in this manner does not necessarily affect calcium tartrate stability and many of the lab tests to check stability will not measure this form of instability either.

Miscellaneous Pointers:

  The winemaker must keep in mind that wines blended after cold stabilization must be reestablished or at least checked to determine their stability.  Two cold stable wines blended together will not always result in a cold stable wine and most often will reveal an unstable wine due to the chemistries of each wine and their resulting blend.  This may even be true with same blends cold stabilized separately.

  Make sure when purchasing the seed that it comes from a company that is aware of your use.  The cream of tartar seed size needs to be small enough to make sure the crystals have the proper surface for the seeding to be effective.  The seed particle size is best at 35 micrometers.  This will give the fastest rate of precipitation and growth.  A mix between 30 and 140 micrometers will do fine for this operation and is most likely the size mixture found commercially.

  One may re-use the seed from tank to tank using on whites first and then on reds.  If the seed is used in conjunction with bentonite, after cold stabilization has been achieved, then the seed must be retired.  This re-use of the seed may greatly drive down the cost of the seed per gallon as one moves it from tank to tank.  [The author has used one set of seed for over 40,000 gallons (8 – 5000 gallon tanks) of wine with success and has not experienced a failure of the process]  Cross-contamination is less of an issue at this time because the wines are generally moving toward filtration and bottling in stainless steel tanks or equivalent for sanitation purposes.

  Ion exchange and cross-flow filtration are rapidly approaching our industry.  These processes can be used to obtain cold stability should your winery have the technology and equipment to do so.

  In step three above the author has had success reducing this amount to 2 grams per liter as long as the wine is clean, chilled properly and at a desired cold temperature.

  Common sense tells us that if we can do this process in the winery, during colder winter temperatures, our chilling systems will be more effective and the cellar temperature will be more conducive to the complete process.  This applies to the filtration and making sure the wine does not warm too much during filtration.

  Be careful when rinsing the tank after filtration.  Ice may fall!

Summary

  This is just one method of achieving cold stability for a winemaker working with grape based wines.  Other ways are successful and may achieve the same results just as well.  Each winemaker is encouraged to try the process that works best for them and their particular cellars.  This process does have the quality of shorter chilling time and reduced utility bills plus faster turn around time for a specific wine – should those goals be desired.  Recall non grape fruit based wines may perform differently.

*  The 3.65 Bifurcation term was not located in any research literature by the author and it is a term the author has used to describe this phenomenon in his cellar work.

  Tom Payette, Winemaking Consultant, has over 30 years’ experience with winery start-ups and assisting wineries already established in the industry.

Handling That First Crush

Closeup of wine grapes being dumped from a truck into crusher
Closeup of wine grapes being dumped from a truck into crusher

By: Tracey L. Kelley

The anticipation of your first wine crush is a different kind of love story. Waiting for this moment to come to fruition requires years of planning, plotting and production. If you’re a grape grower, your pulse quickens with vérasion as the potential presents itself. If you’re a winemaker relying on partnerships to provide you with grapes, the sweat on your brow is both excitement and a little anxiety until you know everything is just right.

  How can you speedily process grapes while enjoying the journey of this process? Choose the right equipment, craft a solid contingency plan and ask the right people for help. Every year provides a chance to reassess, but in most cases, each crush will be better than the last when you know what works for you.

What Crushing Process Works Best for You?

  In some business plans, scaling your equipment to a larger level at startup is often the recommendation so you’re prepared for projected growth. However, if your winery goals require you to stay small, at least until expansion possibilities solidify by demand and profitability, there’s no need to have volunteers for foot treading or hand-cranking grapes—unless that’s part of your marketing and promotions efforts, of course.

  Many small and mid-sized producers benefit from automation. Leo Birdsall is the inventor and owner of FASTRAK Cider Press, based in Springfield, Oregon. He developed a press powered by an air compressor that handles destemmed or shredded fruit. He said he got the idea from talking with producers at trade shows who wanted a motorized method for crush with a lower price point. The automation also helps reduce labor.

  “You can have one person operating the destemmer, feeding the clusters into it. Then another person can collect the pomace in a bag and put it on the press. Once the press is activated, it takes 2.3 seconds to get about three–to–four gallons of juice,” Birdsall told The Grapevine Magazine. Depending on your flavor profiles, you choose how much pomace set aside and add to the juice during fermentation.

  The average price of mechanized destemmer crusher is approximately $3,800–$5,500, especially if you want features such as variable speed control and hookups for must pumps. A wine bladder press is often two times that amount. If your operation is processing about one ton of grapes at a time, as an example, averaging 120–150 gallons of wine per ton—or roughly 60–65 cases of wine—it’s easy to see why even a small automated system makes a speedy difference during crush season.

  FASTRAK retails for $2,500, so paired with a hand-powered or motorized destemmer with an estimated price of $350 might be a more comfortable entry point for some small producers.

  Other producers may find high-quality destemmer crushers at auction, then learn how to rebuild and repair the equipment and save costs that way. Michael and Kelly Amigoni own Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City, Missouri. Winemaker Michael specializes in dry wines crafted from Barbera, Cinsaut, Sangiovese and Tempranillo grapes. Although the couple once had a vineyard, Amigoni now receives 70–90 tons of whole clusters from their partner growers in Lodi, California. They crush, press, ferment, barrel-age and bottle at their winery in the revitalized Stockyard District of Kansas City’s West Bottoms neighborhood.

  Amigoni’s initial production started with 300 cases. Twelve years later, the winery produces more than 4,000 cases a year of award-winning cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and viognier.

  “We have a rebuilt French crusher destemmer that we bought at auction, and we rebuilt the motors—one that propels the destemmer, and one that propels the crusher rollers. We tore the guts out and rebuilt it all,” Amigoni said. With this machine, he can crush about three tons in an hour.

  Machines with gentle overlapping lobe roller crushers continue to be the most prominent choice for small–to–mid-sized producers. Ultimately, a winemaker has to choose a machine that allows for more control over color and tannin. Equipment with variable speeds might enhance the process not only for production but also final quality.

Get Your Equipment and

Supplies in Order

  On average, you have a day—maybe two—to crush grapes. Checking all equipment now is critical to ensure efficient process flow. Inspect, repair and prep:

•    Destemmer, crusher, press, pumps, bladders and hoses—make sure to only use food-grade grease, paint, and cleansers for oiling, metal coating and sterilization. Check seals, bearings, paddles, clamps and hose integrity. You’ll also need a special bladder cleanser. Double-check that you have all the necessary lubricants

•    Buckets, bins, hold tanks, must chillers, fermenters and barrels—pressure wash as needed and sterilize. Check tank fittings and valves.

•    Crush pad and winery—fill cracks and low spots, sanitize for mold and other foreign material.

•    Forklift—even if it’s a rental, run the machine a few days before crush and check the operation. You’ll also probably need extra gas canisters, so call the gas company and have them on hand.

•    Refractometer—use distilled water to recalibrate it to ensure proper brix reading levels.

•    Brooms, mops and other cleaning supplies—have two or three sets so workers don’t have to wait to use them.

•    Hot and cold water options—you’ll need to check your microwave or kettle to make sure they’re working to warm up water for optimal yeast temperature. Check all nozzles, faucets, and sprayers.

•    First aid kit—plan for every medical emergency, from a minor bee sting to a slip and fall, and stock accordingly.

  Amigoni is a careful planner. This technique, he said, helped reduce the pressure of crush. His checklist is quite extensive, and he adheres to it. “I used to panic before harvest,” he said. “Now, I don’t. I’ve seen it all over the years, and realize preparation is everything.”

  Proper gear such as boots, raincoats, and pop-up tents, Amigoni said, make it easier to crush outside. Have a few extra sets of gloves, safety glasses, and masks beyond the number of workers you’re expecting to prepare for any contingencies or additional people stopping by to watch the process.

  “Make sure you have enough covers for open bins and tanks, too—even heavy-duty cardboard is fine. I get extra cardboard from a local brewery. Also, be sure you have enough tape. You never have enough tape,” he said. “If it’s windy or there’s a hose problem or whatever, tape solves a lot of problems.”

  Order about 10% more cleaning and lab supplies than you think you might need—many will keep for a full year. For example, Amigoni said, get a few extra packets of the highest-grade yeast to have on hand.

  “You order yeast according to your variety, but there are times when you have high brix, and normal yeast will die at 16, and maybe you had something come in at 28 or 30 brix,” he said. “Make sure you have high-quality yeast that will go to 17, just one or two packets sitting by, because if you need to have yeast overnighted, it’ll cost a lot more.”

  “Additionally, if you’re doing a cold soak technique, make sure you’ve lined up your dry ice. If you’re using a jacketed tank or chiller, have plenty of glycol available in case there’s a leak or if you need to add some to get down to a certain temperature.”

  Like many winemakers creating different styles, Amigoni has a staggered crush season: a hurry and wait on each varietal’s arrival over the course of a few weeks. He’s learned proper preparation before each crush is essential. “If you’re not prepared, you’ll implode. You have to be precise. I’ve seen times when we’ve spilled things or hit things because we’re in a hurry. This rushing causes a ripple effect, and it’s detrimental to your whole operation. Preparation helps the whole process run more smoothly.”

Create an Environment of Joyful Work

  Crushing is often at its best when it’s done “in kind,” Amigoni told The Grapevine Magazine. “Along with a couple of regular workers, we also have quite a few people—typically 12 people—who volunteer. We have some people who come back each year, and actually, have a waiting list of others wanting to help. They get paid ‘in kind,’—kind words, kind people and a kind smile when you say ‘here, take this home’ as you hand them a bottle of wine.”

  However, he recommends being discerning with who does what. “My biggest challenge is sorting through people and putting them on the right task. Only certain people go on the crusher, for example, or only a couple of people can operate the forklift. Maybe others are marking bins, or putting together little buckets of stuff for me, taping stuff. They like helping, and everyone has a purpose.”

  His advice for getting through your first crush, and others, is threefold:

1.   Pace yourself. “You’ll have a tendency to think ‘I need to do everything at once!’ and rush through everything. Most of the time, though, grapes can sit for a day or so.”

2.   Take the proper amount of breaks. “You might want to push through the whole day—12 hours or more without any breaks—but it’s better to tell your crew to stop, have no equipment running and sit down. Have burgers or pizza or whatever and talk for a while. Your productivity goes through the roof afterward. I used to have a bad habit of not stopping—it took me a long time to find the value in that. It’s not right to push everyone so hard. So make a point to say, ‘Okay, that’s a half-ton done. Here’s your next one waiting when we come back. Now let’s all sit down and eat.’ You can time it—a half hour or so to rehydrate, eat and relax. It may take some volunteers a little longer to get up than others, but they’ll get up to speed eventually.”

3.   Always remember to have fun. “People say, ‘What do you think about your job?’ and I say, ‘I don’t have a job.’ In the early years, yeah, it seemed like a little more of a struggle, especially when I wasn’t prepared. You’ll run into a sweet spot eventually—your budget will increase, you’ll get better equipment and continue to keep yourself motivated.”