Category: Winery Info

Small Batch Wines With Big Personalities

By: Gerald Dlubala

Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard is a boutique farm, winery and vineyard with a notable history and a bright future. Nestled between the shores of Lake Charlevoix’s and Lake Michigan with terroir directly influenced by the Great Lakes and historical glacial drift, it happens to also be the ideal place to grow great grape varietals. The estate vineyard stretches over approximately eight acres and is owned by Jennie and Paul Silva. Its 5,000 vines are personally attended to by the Silvas and General Manager Samantha (Sam) Smiertka. Blu Dot’s balanced, hand-crafted collection of wines features primarily dry selections and provides an excellent showcase for northern cold-hearty varietals.

  Blu Dot Farm’s history and main barn structure go back to the late 1800s. Originally an asparagus farm, it’s not uncommon for visitors to still see asparagus growing alongside a nearby bike path. Legend states that the farm is named after the original farmer’s son, whose first word was blue. The mid-1960s brought horses into the mix when the farm was used, and very well known for, breeding and training horses for harness racing. As a result, a primary residence, stables, barns, and half-mile racetrack were added to the property.

A Trip to Napa Sets Off a Chain of Events

  Jennie and Paul Silva fell in love with the idea of growing grapes after a trip to Napa in 2006. After returning home and researching vineyards and grape growing, they found that the Northern Michigan terroir was ideal for grape growing. If they needed another sign that they should start a vineyard, the property across from their cottage, already named Blu Dot Farms, became available. It was an unused horse farm in some disrepair but possessing a great history. The Silvas were interested not only because it was a great place to grow a few grapes but also because it was a great property on its own, a place where people once gathered, entertained, and made lifelong memories. It longed for attention and someone to bring it back to life and preserve it in a way to be once again enjoyed and appreciated by others.

  “We decided to initially plant just a few vines, see what happens, and maybe sell some grapes,” said Jennie. “After meeting with other area vineyards, we found that there was actually a shortage of Michigan grapes, so our plan was to make about 10 cases of wine for our own personal use and sell the rest of the grapes. It would be a great family hobby.”

  Work began, with holes being dug for the trellises. When the hole auger broke due to all of the limestone underground, the Silvas felt like they were sitting on a small goldmine. The rocky, loam soil would provide many nutrients for their vines and impart a subtle and welcome mineral presence on the palate. The initial intentions of grape growing and winemaking as a family hobby blossomed into perhaps making the vineyard into a business. Jennie was inspired by a California vineyard that used an airstream on their property for guests and as a tasting room, thinking it would also be perfect for their vineyard.

  “We didn’t want to overinvest,” said Jennie. We just thought that we’d see if this thing gets legs, and if it does, then maybe we can keep going with it.”

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard was born. That’s when Smiertka answered an ad and entered the picture.

  “Sam has really met and exceeded all expectations regarding what we were hoping for and wanting in a GM,” said Silva. “She got us to where we are today and has put us in a great position for future growth and success.”

Party Girls Partnership Leads To Success

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard’s General Manager, Samantha (Sam) Smiertka, is originally from Delaware. She left a career in graphic design to follow her love and passion for grape growing and winemaking. While on an apprenticeship with a local winemaker and vineyard owner/manager, Smiertka ran their tasting room and handled their marketing functions. After this apprenticeship, she made her way across the United States, building experience and skills in the industry.

  “After that initial experience, I made my way out west and accepted a contract position in Oregon as a winemaker,” said Smiertka. “When I wanted to further explore new wines and styles, I found an employment listing for a startup wine brand and applied. That startup wine brand was Blu Dot, and here we are.”

  Saying that was the start of something big would undersell the relationship. Each individual vine gets specialized care throughout its growing cycle. The vineyard is regularly walked to ensure the vines are healthy and happy. Jennie also spends quality time talking to her vines, which the vines reportedly love.

  Now, Smiertka and Silva are affectionately known as the Blu Dot Farm’s Party Girls, always ready and willing to meet, raise a glass with, and educate their guests on the awesomeness of Northern Michigan grapes and wines.

 These Small Batch, Northern Michigan Wines May Surprise You

  Blu Dot’s wines tend to be more acid-forward, floral, citrus, white wines, and then cooler season, full-bodied reds.

  “We have two sparkling wines and 5-6 dry-style, still wines,” said Smiertka. “The sparkling wines are our fun, party-girl wines, and we offer a Brut Rosé, Rosé, Marquette, Auxerrois, and Itasca, which is new to the area.”

  “Our climate and terroir parallels many of the great winemaking regions in Europe,” said Smiertka. “There are a lot of hybrids and cold hearty varietals that can grow and excel here, including Riesling and Pinot Blanc. We currently have Marquette, Itasca, Traminette, Frontenac Gris, Sauvignon Rytos, and Auxerrois planted.”

   “We’re in our fourth growing year, and currently, our annual production is almost 3 ½ tons on under three acres this past harvest,” said Silva. “We are still young, so any purchases we make are from our valued regional partners within Michigan, and we only purchase the varietals we are actively growing on the farm. We want our guests to get used to our varietals and know what to expect from us when we do start our own production.”

  Silva says that first time visitors may be surprised at the types of wines they will experience at Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard.

  “It really is fun to see the expression on people’s faces when they taste our wines,” said Silva. “It’s not the sweet style of wine that they may be expecting. And our Itasca is a wonderful, new hybrid that came out of the University of Minnesota in 2017. We’re one of the first to plant Itasca here in Northern Michigan. It’s such an amazing wine with an almost clear color. It actually looks like water in the glass, but it is so good and popular that we sell out regularly.”

  Silva tells The Grapevine Magazine that Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard is easily accessible by bike from downtown Charlevoix or Bay Harbor. They offer music, wine by the tasting, glass or bottle, and snacks to accompany their wines. A pizza oven is also being installed and should be ready to go for those wanting a specialty pizza to complement and extend their winery experience.

You’ve Found Your Peaceful, Relaxing, Happy Place

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard want you to be happy and relaxed in their peaceful, farm-style atmosphere. On your way into the property, you’ll weave your way through vineyards on both sides of the road until you reach the iconic vintage airstream.

  “We didn’t want to take ourselves too seriously in this whole process,” said Silva. “That’s the vibe our guests have come to know, love, and look for when they visit. The airstream serves as our main tasting room from May through October and reflects our lightheartedness and desire for a fun and memorable time. It’s specifically customized to serve and function as a bar area and tasting room, complete with popup windows, unique spaces, and interior seating for a fun and memorable experience. If guests prefer to sit outside, they’ll find comfort around our firepits with picnic tables, umbrellas, and Adirondack chairs. It’s a very welcoming and fun space to be. For colder months, a small indoor tasting room is also available.”

A Future of Self-Sufficiency

  “Well, it’s safe to say that our little hobby trip to Napa 15 years ago has become very expensive,” said Silva, laughing. “And now, our vision for Blu Dot Farm & Vineyards is all about self-sufficiency. We want to bring everything in-house and be as self-sufficient as we can. We do not do any production on-premise for now, although that is definitely part of our future plans. We also plan to expand our indoor tasting room, and within a few years, we’ll hire an in-house winemaker.”

  “And thanks to a Sunday afternoon combination of a couple of glasses of wine and picking way too many apples here on the property, we played around, experimented, and produced our first cider,” said Smiertka.

  “We made one batch that came out awesome,” said Silva. “These apple trees have been here long before us, and since cider is an increasing in popularity in our region, we hope to move forward with cider production as well.”

  “We are looking forward to a fun future,” said Silva and Smiertka. “The property is amazing, and we have the opportunity to preserve and highlight its history while adding to it. We have someone who still keeps horses here, reminding everyone of the significance of this place in Standardbred Harness-Racing. At one point, this property was home to over 300 horses. It was very well known in the equestrian world. We’d love to expand on that and add additional livestock and different animals in the future to enhance the farm experience.”

  “We continue to learn as we go,” said Silva. “Our local vineyards are very collaborative-minded. It’s amazing and rewarding that our neighboring vineyards are willing to share so much information to help us. I enjoy that type of collaborative mindset because we all want everyone to be successful and help Michigan rise to the top as a wine destination. When visitors come to our region, I see the surprise on their faces regarding the quality of wines we can put out. That quality also helps attract top talent to our area.”

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard offers a relaxed setting to enjoy premium Northern Michigan wine with surrounding farm and vineyard views. The vintage customized airstream can comfortably accommodate up to 12 guests and is available to reserve. Outdoor seating is always available on a first-come basis, and leashed dogs are welcome.

For more information, please get in touch with Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard:

11399 Boyne City Rd.

Charlevoix, MI 49720

231.622.3753

info@bludotwine.com

By: Alyssa L. Ochs

It is common knowledge that wineries produce a significant amount of wastewater. Still, it’s imperative to understand your winery’s wastewater characteristics to choose the right solution. Fortunately, many eco-friendly options are available now to help wineries reduce their environmental impact while using water. These options can also help you stay within compliance regulations without much labor, eliminate the need for extensive pond dredging, address water reclamation concerns and recycle water quickly and effectively.

  This article will cover best practices, recycling, monitoring, cleaning, sanitation and technologies for wastewater management to guide wineries in choosing the best options for their operations.

Traditional and Modern Wastewater Solutions

  Technologies used for winery wastewater typically fit into four categories: physiochemical, biological, advanced oxidation and membrane. Physiochemical technologies include precipitation, coagulation, sedimentation and electrocoagulation methods. Aerobic biological technologies include membrane bioreactors and conventional activated sludge process methods, while anaerobic biological processes feature anaerobic sequencing batch reactor methods. Advanced oxidation methods are sulfate radical- TiO2- or ozone-based, while reverse osmosis is used for membrane technologies.

  Types of treatment systems applicable to wineries include lagoons to treat wastewater organic material and artificial wetlands using plants to break down organic matter. There are also bioreactor methods with small footprints to maximize usable vineyard space and conventional activated sludge that features a mix of wastewater and oxygen to ensure that microbial organisms break down organic matter.

  Yoni Szarvas, the founder, president, CEO, and chairman of AquaBella Organic Solutions, told The Grapevine Magazine about several wastewater approaches available to wineries today. Founded in 2008, AquaBella is a socially responsible company headquartered in Sebastopol, California that delivers the power of naturally beneficial bacteria to reduce water pollutants and create higher crop yields. The company aims to reduce the need for chemical fertilizers, boost agricultural lands’ long-term sustainability and fertility and break down organic pollutants to clarify water.

  Szarvas explained that traditional approaches to wastewater management typically involve using a wastewater pond or series of ponds to remove contaminants until the water quality standards are met.

  “A more modern approach is to use a modular treatment system, which potentially is more cost-effective than surface water ponds,” Szarvas said. This approach involves installing prefab above-ground tanks instead of excavating wastewater lagoons. Many wineries use wetland reclamation technology, which has the added benefit of acting as a carbon sink and minimizing CO2 release into the atmosphere.”

Characteristics of Winery Wastewater

  Winery wastewater typically has a low pH of three to four, nitrogen levels of up to 500 milligrams per liter, a high biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) of up to 10,000 milligrams per liter and high turbidity. The characteristics of wastewater will vary by the season but must always be kept in mind by vineyard owners to prevent foul odors and protect water quality. Some wineries turn to companies like Specialty Treatment Solutions (STS), to devise customized wastewater treatment plans based on wastewater characteristics. ClearBlu Environmental and BioMicrobics, Inc. are additional companies that serve the winery market with wastewater treatment solutions.

Effluents and Contaminant Burdens

  Wine industry wastewater is primarily produced from cleaning equipment and machinery, such as tanks, destemmers, pumps, tubes and filters. Wineries also produce wastewater when employees wash fermentation tanks, bottles and barrels. Some wastewater comes from spillages that happen during winemaking transfers, too. Harvesting, cellaring and bottling processes all produce wastewater, and multi-step treatments are typically required regardless of whether you choose traditional or new-technology methods.

  Approximately half of a winery’s annual wastewater comes from harvesting, a time of the year that only lasts a few weeks. Even worse, harvest wastewater has the highest contaminant burdens as employees work long days pressing grapes, cleaning equipment and handling accidental spillages. Cellaring-generated wastewater is produced during the wine’s maturation phase, when fermentation tanks are cleaned and wines are clarified cold before bottling. Effluents from cellaring wastewater tend to have a high pH. The lowest wastewater contaminant burden comes from bottling processes, as employees clean bottles and disinfect equipment during their workdays. The type of wastewater produced will dictate the appropriate treatment method, depending on whether it will be discharged into the public sewer system, released into a natural waterway or used to irrigate the vineyard.

How to Manage Winery Wastewater

  The first step in treating winery wastewater is to address the solids since solids may hinder the rest of the treatment processes. During pretreatment and neutralization, make sure to adjust the pH to ensure effluents can be discharged properly. Once liquids are separated from solids, the primary treatment process should eliminate around 30 to 40 percent of organic matter. Secondary treatment processes dissolve nutrients and organic matter, typically using nitrogen and phosphorus. Advanced treatment options are available for wastewater that will be reused within the winery’s operations.

  Good water and wastewater management can reduce operations costs, time and labor when carried out properly. Along with improved production efficiency and lower disposal fees and surcharge costs, wastewater practices can also help you promote your winery as a sustainable business in the local community. There is a growing demand for environmentally-friendly production, and managing wastewater is a practical and tangible way to stand out in a crowded marketplace while also staying ahead of changing water regulations and risks of natural disasters.

Recycling and Reusing Wastewater

  Vineyards can reuse wastewater for irrigation and other purposes after performing advanced treatments, such as disinfection through ultraviolet radiation and ozone-based oxidation. After the second treatment, employees filter effluent using a granular sand bed and then proceed with ultrafiltration or another membrane-filtration process before reverse osmosis.

  As Szarvas from AquaBella pointed out, vineyards generally reuse wastewater once contaminants have been removed.

  “Land application is a common reuse of this water which helps keep costs down, especially for smaller vineyards,” he said. “There may be additional opportunities to recover energy from wastewater and solid waste, such as pomace in the form of biogas.”

Monitoring, Cleaning and Sanitizing Processes

  Keeping up with wastewater management and monitoring cleanliness and sanitation is always the best approach to any wastewater plan. Try to work ahead as much as possible to keep up with these tasks.

  “This means having good sanitation practices in place prior to treatment and exploring options that minimize the use of cleaners that will either interfere with the wastewater treatment process or add to the waste stream,” said Szarvas from AquaBella. “Regular testing of the wastewater for common vineyard contaminants, such as nitrogen, salinity and organic matter as indicated by biochemical oxygen demand are used prior to land application of the treated wastewater.”

Choosing a Wastewater Management Strategy

  Of course, there are many factors to consider before deciding on a wastewater treatment system, including local and state regulations that define the maximum levels of biochemical oxygen demand, nitrogen and salinity for disposal on land. Cost is a significant consideration, especially labor prices and costs for chemicals and maintenance time. As a winery owner, you’ll also need to think about how much land you have to dedicate to wastewater management, the capacity of your staff to handle wastewater tasks and creative ways to repurpose wastewater to your advantage.

  Szarvas from AquaBella explained to The Grapevine Magazine that there is no one-size-fits-all treatment option for all vineyards.

  “Vineyards are in a unique position due to the seasonal nature of the wastewater generated,” he said. “Only during ‘crush,’ when grapes are harvested and pressed, do they generate a significant amount of wastewater. Wastewater treatment approaches need to be cost-effective for a large amount of waste for this short period of time. A treatment approach that has the capacity necessary to meet this need is essential.”

  For example, AquaBella Organic Solutions makes a low-cost microbe-based water treatment product, AquaBella Bio-Enzyme. This product works without having to build on or improve existing water treatment infrastructure and can significantly shorten the timeline required for nitrogen, BOD and organic matter treatment. This allows a higher volume of wastewater to be processed more rapidly.

  “AquaBella Bio-Enzyme also works in a wide range of pH and salinity conditions,” said Szarvas. “AquaBella Bio-Enzyme can rapidly break down and remove organic matter in process water, resulting in improved dissolved oxygen, reduced BOD and volatile dissolved solids while helping to control odors.”

  Looking ahead to the future, winery owners must pay close attention to energy and material prices when addressing their wastewater concerns. There is a significant need for economical solutions to serve the increasing needs and limited budgets of small and medium-sized wineries. In-demand innovations being researched include technological solutions to ensure winery wastewater is reusable at food-grade quality, compact equipment to minimize the land footprint and anaerobic treatment solutions that produce methane to become at least partially self-sufficient.

  In the meantime, winery staff members can do their part to track and monitor water use, fix leaks and use the right tools for the job when handling water. Simple and no-cost best practices, like following established procedures for cleaning and sanitizing and providing employee training and incentives for proper wastewater management, can go a long way in improving wastewater disposal, usage and quality at a winery.

By: Cheryl Gray

Women have been an integral part of winemaking since the days of ancient Egypt, Greece and the Roman Empire. Today, they own vineyards and wineries and have a hand in virtually all aspects of creating wines that earn accolades and appease palates around the world. 

  Among them is Attorney Theodora Lee, a senior partner in a San Francisco law firm who never imagined herself becoming a vineyard owner and winemaker. Lee’s groundbreaking step toward establishing Theopolis Vineyards came in 2003 when she bought several acres of land in the Yorkville Highlands region of Anderson Valley, a Northern California wine-growing region about two hours outside San Francisco. Anderson Valley is a designated AVA (American Viticultural Area) known largely for producing pinot noir and sparkling wines.

  Lee was no stranger to farming since she grew up around farms in her native Texas. As a seasoned litigator and trial lawyer, she also knew that she had to equip herself with knowledge about viticulture, which she did at UC Davis. However, Lee hadn’t planned on going solo when the time came for her first grape harvest, one that would result in her first award-winning wine.

  “From 2003 until 2012, I was quite content being a grape farmer, plowing the land, pruning the vines, fertilizing the vineyard, mowing, chopping, weed eating, erosion control, tying the shoots up to T-posts, fruit thinning and picking the grapes during harvest. As any winemaker will tell you, great wine starts in the vineyard.

  Then, in 2012, an ill-timed rain fell during harvest, and I rushed to pick my grapes at 22 brix. The buyer at that time had contracted for grapes at 25 brix, so they rejected the entire lot – 10 tons of fruit. Faced with no one willing to purchase fruit at a lower brix level at the last minute, I decided to have my fruit custom-crushed.”

  Lee’s pivot to a custom crush led to Theopolis Vineyards’ award-winning 2012 Estate Grown Petite Sirah, which earned a gold medal at an international wine competition. Her moniker in the wine industry is “Theo-Patra, Queen in the Vineyards,” part of which is a throwback to her pledge name as a Delta Sigma Theta Sorority member.

  “Now that I have a wine brand, the greatest motivator for me is to produce premium wine which is second to none. I love to bring folks pleasure in the bottle, and it is very important that I produce the best product to bring to the marketplace.”

  Theopolis Vineyards consistently rakes in awards, with 90 percent of its products sold directly to consumers. Lee says that as a small craft winery, a three-tier distribution system doesn’t make economic sense for her company. Instead, Theopolis Vineyards focuses on direct shipping to a customer base stretching across the United States and, more recently, Belize. Lee adds that the company has a few distributors focusing on its handcrafted products, and those relationships have worked well. The wine club approach, however, has been spot on. 

  Lee’s advice to other women who want to enter the world of winemaking is straightforward.

  “For anyone thinking about entering the viticulture industry, I suggest that you find your passion.   There are all aspects, from vineyard management to enology, business management, marketing, sales and wine education. So, my slice of advice: ‘Pursue your passion, educate yourself, work extremely hard, be persistent and be very patient, but never give up and keep climbing, then success is yours for the taking.”

  Cathy Corison, founding partner of Corison Winery in California’s Napa Valley, knows a thing or two about that advice. Corison took a career pivot of sorts and beat the odds. Corison’s journey to winemaking began in college when, as a biology major, she found herself drawn to the science of winemaking. A master’s degree in enology, followed by multiple opportunities to get hands-on experience, led to Corison finally making her breakthrough, establishing Corison Winery in 1987. She did it by purchasing grapes grown in the region between Rutherford and St. Helena, an area known for prime benchland vineyards. Purchasing barrels followed, and then, to produce the wine, Corison had to depend on vacant space in other wineries to create her first products. All the while, she was still moonlighting on other winery and vineyard jobs. 

  Corison Winery finally got its own estate vineyard in 1995 when the company bought the former Kronos Vineyard, which had operated as a farm for over a century. Corison would use part of the land purchase to build a winery in 1999, a Victorian-style winery barn structure designed by William Martin, an architect. In 2015, Corison Winery purchased the nearby Sunbasket Vineyard after sourcing grapes from it for more than 25 years. 

  Together with her husband and business partner, William Martin, Corison has established a reputation for the winery by producing cabernet sauvignons that are marketed as globally recognized wines noted for their distinctive taste, longevity and consistency. The majority of sales come through the winery’s wine club, visitors to the winery and online purchases, resulting in exports to 18 countries and a presence in several U.S. markets.

  Corison says her motivation is driven by a personal devotion to creating good products.

  “Wine is alive and grounds us. The best part is sharing it with friends, family and guests to the winery. I love the great wines of the world, and it is so gratifying to be a part of that.”

  Corison shares her advice to women who want to enter the viticulture industry. 

  “First, you need to be passionate about wine because this is a very difficult business. Then be prepared and start walking. Persistence and a long view will be required.”

  Persistence and the long view paid off for St. Clair Brown Winery and Brewery, a self-described boutique urban winery and nano-brewery headquartered in the city of Napa, California. What used to be a deserted lot and former machine shop is now production central for hand-bottled craft wines and beers.

  Longtime friends Elaine St. Claire and Laina Brown worked together at other wineries for the better part of 18 years before they took the leap to open the winery portion of their business in 2010, followed by the companion nano-brewery in 2018. St. Clair is the winemaker and brewmaster. Brown serves as the company’s president. 

  According to Brown, the duo’s years of experience at larger wineries gave them real motivation to put wines on the market that would distinguish their products from the rest. The two used that motivation to sit down and make a list of everything they wanted their own venture to encompass.

  “After working in the industry for over 10 years, 20 years for Elaine, we came to a point in      our careers where we just wanted to create wines that were crafted with respect, applying the attention to detail and a level of quality that we were truly proud of and then to share them with our community. Our vision was to make our products for the people around us and for the rest   of the wine industry out of honor for what could be created – not just create another brand wrestling for market share.”

  St. Clair got her wish by being part of creating the best of both worlds. As a UC Davis graduate and an award-winning winemaker and brewmaster, St. Clair had always wanted an opportunity to make both wine and beer, putting to use 30 years of experience in making wines in Napa Valley and a decade more as a head brewer.

  For Brown, experience as a wine industry executive came into play when deciding how to create what she describes as a place where craft wine and beer could be showcased in an inviting space. Brown describes the many different facets of how women can enter the winemaking space.

  “The wine industry is very diverse and creative. My advice is to think of what area speaks         to you and how you want to live. The viticultural side of the industry is the establishing and farming of vineyards. If you are more outgoing, you may prefer a career in sales and marketing or hospitality. There are also many fields that support the industry, which are as wide ranging as technology, accounting and culinary. This industry attracts a lot of talented people with different personality types who work hard and enjoy a great lifestyle. More and more women are working in the wine industry, and there is a place for everyone.”

By: Gerald Dlubala

When a third-generation winemaker like Eric White, president and winemaker of Galena Cellars Vineyard and Winery in Galena, Illinois, calmly and confidently says that he’s still learning, it shows the dedication and continuous education that occurs in the winemaking industry. According to White, every harvest, every tweak in the process and every batch produced is a learning opportunity, and it’s part of the excitement of being a winemaker.

  White says that the family’s winemaking journey started with his grandparents. “My grandpa Lawlor is the root of Galena Cellars,” said White. “He was this eccentric guy who just liked to do things out of the ordinary. One day, he decided to take a home winemaking class at a community college in Cedar Rapids. At the time, the popularity of wine was taking off on the West Coast, but there were little to no actual wineries throughout the Midwest. Grandpa Lawlor thought this had a chance to be something special, something unique and something they could all enjoy as a family. The idea kind of spiraled from there, and now, three generations later, here we are.”

  The current Galena Cellars and Vineyard location is actually the third winery opened by the family. In 1976, after graduating with her degree in enology from Fresno State University, Christina Lawlor, the family’s second-generation winemaker, opened Christina Wine Cellars in McGregor, Iowa. She produced 200 cases of cherry wine. Four years later, in 1980, a second location opened in LaCrosse, Wisconsin, in an old Milwaukee freight depot.

Finding the Perfect Spot

  It was in 1983 that the Lawlor family came across the location in Galena, Illinois, while on a trip to purchase grapes. Christina recruited her brother Scott and his wife Karan for help with this new family project. Galena Cellars opened in 1985, taking up residence in a restored 1840s granary building on Main Street. Following the opening, Galena Cellars celebrated its first annual Beaujolais Nouveau Wine Celebration and, in the process, gained further recognition when they were featured on The Today Show.

  Galena Cellars wine production grew, resulting in the family purchasing a farm on North Ford Road, just outside of Galena. This made it possible to move their wine production here to the farm and vineyard. It allowed them to start growing experimental grape varietals. It also came with expanded responsibilities, so the family decided to close the McGregor and LaCrosse locations to focus all their energy and resources on the farm and vineyard location.

  “We currently grow La Crosse, Marechal Foch and Petite Pearl, Verona on 4.5 acres,” said Christina Lawlor-White, second-generation winemaker. “Additionally, we have an experimental one-acre vineyard that we work on in conjunction with the NIWG (Northern Illinois Wine Growers). We have 12 vines responsible for 23 varieties. It sounds like a lot, but for me, it’s not a job, it’s a lifestyle. It’s hard work, but it’s also invigorating work. It’s still exciting, and it never gets old.”

  Galena Cellars and Vineyard offers tastings, tours and music at the vineyard. Additionally, guests are always invited to simply hang out and take in the beautiful vistas and all that the farm and vineyard have to offer. If interested, guests can take a more intimate stroll through the vineyards or soak up the area’s picturesque sunsets while enjoying the award-winning wines made right there on site.

  In 2004, five years after releasing its flagship wine, “Eric the Red,” named after Christine’s son Eric, Galena Cellars added a suburban tasting room and gift shop in downtown Geneva, Illinois.

  While offering the same great wines as the farm and vineyard location, the downtown space also featured music, tastings, wine-infused cocktails and small bites available from a full kitchen that perfectly paired with their wines.

A New Generation Continues the Family Legacy

  Galena Cellars’ history reveals a true family business success story. Several family members were included along the way, some even moving to the area to join the business. During this time, Christine Lawlor-White would go on to be named “Winemaker of the Year” three separate years by the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association, owning the title in 2002, 2008 and again in 2017.

  As additional family members completed their education in winemaking and joined the business, some of the others retired. It was in 2018 that Eric and Britt White were called on to continue the family legacy as third-generation winemakers. Eric is the current president and winemaker, and his sister Britt is Galena Cellars’ brand ambassador and wine club manager.

  Following family winemaker tradition, the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association named Eric “Winemaker of the Year” in 2019. Enhancing the ceremony, his mother, Christine, was the one to hand him the coveted award. Eric and Britt are now moving the winery forward, infusing their ideas and techniques into what the family has done before them, and the future looks as bright as the morning dew glistening off of their grapevines.

Family’s Work Ethic Continues Through Generations

  “We grew up in a rural lifestyle that was very different and very unique,” said Eric. “I never really understood the magnitude of what everyone was doing and all of the accomplishments that happened along the way. Looking back, it was a lifestyle of invigorating, hard work.”

  That hardworking family tradition keeps Eric and Britt determined to push the envelope and never shy away from new ideas, as long as they do so in a way that honors the traditions and legacy of the family members who started and grew Galena Cellars to where it is today.

  While many winemakers I speak to dread the harvest season for the endless hours and continuous deadlines that present themselves to get the grapes gathered and processed, this family seems to relish the harvest season. “The harvest is the most exciting time of the year for me,” said Eric. “It’s a second chance on winemaking. It’s when I can assess what I did right and what I did wrong and constantly improve from there. It’s when we can bring in new varieties from the vineyards we worked with in the past and create new styles or variations to offer our guests.”

  “We have a strong passion for perfecting what we do,” said Britt. “We want to stay small and remain unique, and we want to grow our wine club offerings and membership. We offer everything from dry reds to a fruit and dessert selection and everything in between. There is truly something for everyone in our lineup. Additionally, our wine club gives us the unique opportunity to try out new ideas in our cellar and produce unique, small-batch wine exclusively for the members.”

  Galena Cellars Vineyard and Winery offers up to 70 varieties of wine. “We have five acres encompassing three varieties,” said Eric. “We use these three varieties to produce small batches of wine in various styles.”

  “We are working to find the perfect grape to grow in our climate,” said Christine Lawlor-White. “We have an experimental vineyard on the property that allows us to continue our quest to research these new varietals. Our terroir and environment matter as much as the finished product, so finding the perfect grape to grow in our climate can take years of research just on its own. Typically, our best sellers are our flagship, Eric the Red (marechal foch), our Oktoberfest (riesling and muscat blend), our General’s Reserve Red (a red blend of hybrid and vinifera varietals) and our locally sourced Edelweiss.”

  Lawlor-White also tells The Grapevine Magazine that the palates of their consumers continue to change, so their wines are evolving as well.

  “We work in depth with vinifera grapes and implement the education and technology learned from West Coast viniculture and apply that knowledge to our American French hybrid grapes,” said Lawlor-White. “Additionally, we focus on sourcing fruit from our local growers, as well as some of the best-growing regions available.”

  That strategy has served them well. Their awards are too numerous to list here. Yet, from Illinois State Fair Competitions to American Fine Wine Rosé Wine Competition and into Experience Rosé International Wine Competitions, there are enough silvers, golds and double-golds to impress even the most experienced wine consumer.

  “Winemaking is one of those businesses that typically is a family business,” said Lawlor-White. “It’s as if winemaking is in your blood! Each generation makes important contributions, and the wine just gets better and better.”

  “We are fortunate to work together and spend time as a family together doing things we all love to do,” added Britt.

Plan a Visit and Maybe Even a Stay

  Galena Cellars Vineyard and Winery offers an updated tasting room and a wraparound deck to enjoy the unmatched views of the surrounding farmland and picturesque vineyard vistas. Guests are encouraged to stroll through the vineyard

and end their day with a glass of locally made wine while experiencing a memorable sunset in a farm and vineyard setting. For those who want an extended stay, Galena Cellars offers a cozy guest suite and quaint guest house that would be perfect for an extended stay. Treat yourself to a romantic getaway, a family get-together or a simple night away from the rigors and stresses of daily life.

  For more information, including award lists, or to book a stay, contact Galena Cellars Vineyard and Winery at:

Galena Cellars Vineyard

4746 N Ford Road

Scales Mound, Illinois, 61075

815-777-3235

Galena Cellars Downtown

111 N Main Street

Galena, Illinois, 61036

815-777-3330

www.galenacellars.com

By: Thomas J. Payette, Winemaking Consultant

Having been on both sides of custom crush not only as a winemaker as a host winery but also as a winemaking client in another’s winery I feel especially adapted to help people with custom crush endeavors.  Making sure your grapes and wine get the excellent treatment they deserve is always the top consideration.  You want to make excellent wine, without winemaking flaw, as a bottom line.

Choosing Your Custom Crush Partner

  Make sure to choose a custom crush winemaking facility that is adapted to your size and style.  If you care for the products that winery makes that is a key asset that you can hopefully build on but it is not a given your wines will be as clean and assertive as the winery making your wines.  Research the winery you plan to be involved with and make sure they are the correct fit.  Research their sanitation and explore if brettanomyces could be a long term issue, especially if making reds and moving the bulk wine back to your facility.

Discuss How Far to Go

  Discuss with the winery how much of the process you plan to have done at their facility.  Will they just crush and ship? Will they crush, ferment, press and ship?  Will they crush, ferment, press, age, bottle and ship?  What should the label say?  What should they expect from you?  If you are building a new winery building are there contingencies’ for a construction delay on your end?  There are many ways to configure what your needs are and the winery should have some idea of how long you plan to stay and what their role is in your vision.

Communication

  Now we can see communication is already a huge part of this relationship.  Beyond how long you will stay at the winery leads into division of responsibilities.  Who will decide the yeast, enzyme, nutrient, style, maceration, whole cluster press, crush and press, etc?  Will tanks be available?   Should you bring your own tanks and barrels to the winery to be helpful?  What can the winery supply to you in the way of fermentation capacity and how soon will the wine get into your barrels so the production path is clear for their grapes and wines?  Map out a process with the winemaker and/or GM to make sure a plan is in place.

Priority

  Every harvest comes with new challenges.  Often winemakers are already stressed with their own fruit and winemaking demands only to find owners and GM’s piling more on them with custom crush.  Make sure the winemaking team really wants you there and that they will treat your fruit with the same respect as their own.  Is the winemaker being compensated extra for your presence?  Should they be?  Are they happy you are “on board” or is this process a thorn in their side?  Are you just in their way? This is hugely important to your success as a client in their cellar and what are your buffers or remedies if you find your expectations are not being met?  This happens and you need expertise to know when things are not just right.

Expertise

  Make sure you have expertise on hand to help coax your winemaking process along.  Make sure a detailed plan has been placed, on paper, for the resident winemaker to follow.  Make sure the plan has the flexibility needed to shift to address the potential abnormalities every harvest has.  This ability to make decisions on the fly will be imperative to your overall wine quality success.  Not knowing the ins and outs can lead you subject to agreeing to things you may not have agreed to and having the wines suffer in the process.  Make sure you don’t become “second fiddle” for the cost of a “front row seat”.

Being a Priority

  Keeping yourself in the forefront will be a delicate balance.  Harvest has everyone under stress and that starts to show quickly in the game.  Make sure level heads approach reactionary winemakers with compromise and offering solutions.  It will help the stress level of the onsite winemaker remain low and you will gain respect.  This will typically pay off later when you do need a little something extra from the winemaking team.  They will respectfully step forward and help on the back end.  Show that you understand the shoes they are in and that you are not only present to help them navigate the waters, with them, but ready to look after your wines, too. 

How to get the Best

  Getting the best is by getting along.Communication is the key.  If your fruit is being delayed from the 10:00am delivery slot originally planned – place the quick call to the proper winemaking team person and let them know calmly. 

Chances are something else has shifted that day already and the team easily navigates this new slot.  It always works out well beyond any planning but if the team is veteran – they have seen it all and will refocus their energy to a more immediate task that may have been slated for later that day.  This same approach goes for all during the year.  Plan and communicate.

Flexibility

  The above has certainly addressed the issue of flexibility.  This is farming at crush.  Harvesters break down, picking crews get out of sequence, lug deliveries may have been delayed or any other host of things could happen.  Many situations are out of your control so plan for the worst and accept a good day.  They happen more frequently than this article might suggest.

Good….Great Relationships

  Keep a great relationship, even at your own expense, while having wine made in another’s facility.  That doesn’t mean you need to role over and accept poor treatment of your fruit and wines but rather go the extra mile to have the winemaking crew want to help you.  Help them when possible on a task they are working on if the winery environment allows it.  If you can help them clear a path to work with your fruit – they will respect that.

Doing Work Yourself

  Will you be able to do work yourself on their premise and in their facility?  This can be key from crushing fruit to racking tanks and barrels or filtering wine.  If things are being slow to get done ask if you can come in and do the work yourself provided you have the knowledge and skills.  Some wineries will allow this and in some cases it is the best solution for on site quality control.  Will the custom crush winery assign their top personnel on your lots or will they focus on theirs?  Human nature comes into play here and you need to protect your investment.  If late Friday work orders delivered to a non veteran winemaking staff should become the norm for what needs to be done to your wines – this should sound alarm bells to you.

Lab Testing

  Will the custom crush winery supply lab numbers to you?  Do you trust their lab numbers, expertise and how will you know if the numbers are trust worthy?  The difference in a pH reading of 3.88 and 3.76 could have a huge influence on how you may want to handle that wine.  Make sure to use outside labs to help validate the internal numbers being supplied to you.  It is great insurance for your wines and you soon know how reliable the internal winery numbers are and how often you need to seek outside numbers.

Record Keeping

  How much access will you have in the record keeping?  Will the custom crush winery hold those records close to their chest or is it an open book?  Do they keep as detailed records as you hope to see?  Address this before becoming a client of theirs.  Is it up to them to keep track of blends or yourself?  Perhaps it is best to run the records parallel so you can confirm your confidence in what you receive.  It will help in any case especially in the event of a computer crash or other catastrophic events.

Sanitation

  When courting a winery, as a potential custom crush facility, make sure you are happy with what you see in terms of sanitation.  Don’t expect that the overall sanitation regime will change once you “get married”.  Look at the process and procedures that each winery might have in place to understand how they clean certain segments of the winery.  If you plan to move the wines in bulk to your facility be careful not to contaminate your brand new winery with spoilage microbes that could affect your wine styles for years if not forever.

Summary

  Make sure to look out for number one when looking to do custom crush.  Many honorable facilities exist but be on your toes to make sure you know when things are not headed in the proper direction for your wines.  Make sure you are getting your monies worth and that the wines you intend to craft are indeed shaping up in the proper fashion.

•    Know what your goals are and express them.

•    Explore the winery that will best fit the goals.

•    Make business arrangements to achieve the goals.

•    Communicate throughout all the winemaking process.

•    Have a commanding presence while remaining flexible.

  A big thanks to Rombauer, Laird, Braman, Prince Michel and numerous other wineries for allowing me custom crush access and experience.

Award-Winning Wines With Memorable Views in a Family Atmosphere

By: Gerald Dlubala 

Follow the Oregon Trail through Kansas, and you’ll run right through the aptly named BlueJacket Crossing Vineyard and Winery in Eudora, about halfway between Kansas City and Lawrence. “There’s a historic landmark,” said Kandaya “Pep” Selvan, owner, vintner and viticulturist. “On the far side of the Wakarusa River, there was what they called a hotel, but really, it’s just a shelter that the Native Americans had established. That area was originally owned by the Bluejacket family, and where the ferry ran across the river became known as BlueJacket Crossing. So here we are. The watering hole and ruts are there for those interested and spend time researching those things.”

  BlueJacket Vineyard and Winery is part of a family farm. Selvan was originally from Kansas, leaving in the ’70s and working the construction trade in California. His construction experiences included building wineries in St Helena. Thirty-five years later, he returned to Kansas to help his elderly parents run their farm. But to his parents’ surprise, Selvan began planting grapevines instead of soybeans and corn in 2001.

  “From that time on, it was a learning curve,” said Selvan. “Kansas didn’t have any mature wineries at the time. Additionally, the wineries that were here were required to source at least 60 percent of their fruit from the state of Kansas. So, there were maybe seven or eight active wineries in our state. A handful were making a good product, but they were virtually unknown. We took the opportunity to spend five or six years working for these wineries to gain some experience.”

  Selvan planted 4,000 vines, and in 2008, when they matured, BlueJacket Crossing Vineyard and Winery was born. He began with an initial planting of Nortons. In subsequent years, Selvan expanded his Norton line and added St. Vincent, Seyval, Chambourcin, Fredonia, Vignoles and Traminette vines.

  “We methodically built the winery ourselves,” said Selvan. “There was a small tasting room in the winery building. We were comfortable and felt somewhat successful. After my time on the West Coast, my goal was to produce wines with good character and a local identity. In 2012, we expanded the tasting room and doubled our annual capacity, producing 6,000 to 7,000 gallons. That was and continues to be a comfortable level for us, and since then, we’ve been able to produce a modest yet successful product.”

  Selvan mixes the best Midwest winemaking practices with inspiration from his favorite wines from California, Missouri and Italy. BlueJacket Crossing wines include dry, off-dry, semi-sweet and sweet white varietals. Reds include sweet red, blush, dry rose and dry options, with an excellent selection of dessert wines. Many of Selvan’s wines have won awards across the U.S.

  “The labels are also significant to our area,” said Selvan. “I’ve always envisioned a wolf design on our label, but I didn’t want the usual type of image. It was by chance that we met a Native American impressionist painter named Brent Learned at our annual arts and crafts fair. His art reveals the life and culture of the Plains Indians. An original wolf print of his immediately attracted us and was exactly the type of image that I was looking for. We asked his permission to use his design on our labels and are grateful he agreed. We were lucky to run across him at the time. Today, he is  internationally known.”

Bring the Family and Dog to Relax, Unwind and Connect with Nature

  “Our goal from the beginning was for our guests to join us in a comfortable setting with a pleasant connection to nature,” said Selvan. “We aren’t your typical winery with a big venue. We’re about a mile off any main four-lane highways between Kansas City and Lawrence, with a rural setting and memorable landscape vistas. We have both patio and indoor seating to enjoy our remarkable farm vistas. We have included as many windows as possible to keep that connection with nature and the outdoors. Because of our location, we also have air conditioning and fireplaces to counteract the Midwest weather swings. We encourage families and well-behaved dogs to come and enjoy our setting and have good times and fun as a family. We feel that is important. We also occasionally feature live music and food trucks and do all we can to make our vineyard and winery a welcoming space for comfort and family fun.”

  Additionally, Selvan’s original tasting area is now an Airbnb. The original tasting room had an upstairs space that accommodated up to 20 guests and was used for small gatherings or as a business space. After constructing a new 2,000-square-foot tasting room, the old tasting room, now an Airbnb, features a living space and mini kitchen on the lower level with a large master bedroom and outside deck overlooking the farm.

  BlueJacket Vineyard and Winery can accommodate up to 200 people when hosting one of their many fundraisers for Alzheimer’s research, Habitat For Humanity, dog shelters and more. With these types of events, the upper level of the Airbnb, if not being used, can be transformed into VIP seating overlooking the activities. But the typical capacity of BlueJacket Vineyard and Winery is around 100, which Selvan says is a good amount for the solid group of people that come here to escape the exaggerated life we all now live.

Continuous Learning Helps Refine Winemaking Process

  Selvan comes from a non-winery background, having a construction and architectural engineering career. He began with 11 grape varietals. Over the past several years, Selvan has seen what his customers want and what works within his vineyard. He is now refining his wines to reflect those results.

  “What amazes me is that for some reason, Midwest wineries feel the need to have 25 to 30 wines available, whereas other locations seem to focus on consistently producing their best four or five,” said Selvan. “We’re refining our choices and narrowing from 25 wines to hopefully about a dozen. Doing this will help us maintain consistency and quality while remaining true to the qualities and characteristics of the chosen varietals. Our customers can also count on it, knowing that they will always get the same great quality with our wine.”

  Selvan’s barrel room can hold about 50 barrels at any given time. While working with sommeliers, he told The Grapevine Magazine that they found that when they allow the barrels to age for three to five years, they can deliver a noticeably better product while maintaining their production goals.

Additionally, Selvan has added a traditionally produced sparkling wine to his lineup and a unique and difficult-to-find cabernet franc to their French hybrids.

Today’s Winemakers Need Mentors and Mechanization

  “We had our family farm, but we had to learn the farming element of vineyards, determining which varietals are vigorous and which are, shall we say, moody,” said Selvan. “We eliminated three varietals just because they were fussy, and the amount of work needed for them wasn’t equal to the outcome. It would also be best to consider your geographical location and what those consumers want. We are in the rural Midwest. Here, sweetness sells, and we have developed a reputation for quality red wines in and around Kansas City and Lawrence, with a clientele that appreciates our dedication and commitment.”

  Selvan said that it’s essential for those who want to be in the business to spend time with experienced, successful winemakers to learn the process, amount and type of planning needed.

  “You’ll definitely have a more enjoyable time if your space and production areas are correctly laid out, but you need someone who has gone through it to guide you,” said Selvan. “Through the Missouri Winemakers Association, we met and became friends with the folks at Adam Puchta Winery in Hermann, Missouri. They use the same varietals as we do and have been a terrific resource for us. Having a winery and being a winemaker will be much more pleasing if your planning is good and the building is designed right with optimal access and thoroughly thought-out sanitation systems. We even took all the classes through VESTA, the Viticulture, Enology, Science and Technology Alliance. Still, we weren’t prepared to see how inefficient our awkward equipment and poorly accessible building would be. It wasn’t until we got together with Adam Puchta Winery 10 years into this process that we saw how his experience, organization and analytical skills enhanced and improved every aspect of the business.”

  “It’s all a big learning curve, but I certainly still enjoy it,” said Selvan. “Our education comes from many different areas that we didn’t anticipate. I have a master’s in architectural engineering, but I sure wish I had studied refrigeration, too. It’s easy to throw away tens of thousands of dollars on the wrong cooling systems. You need a real passion for the industry and what you’re doing.”

  Selvan says that the industry has changed over the last 10 years and that mechanization is a must for vineyard owners.

  “We need the equipment to be efficient and to balance continued shortages in the labor market as well as to help replace the people leaving,” said Selvan. “I’ve been lucky to have family involved along with people of our rural community with the passion and determination to work with us. Our daughter manages the tasting room, events and activities, but as a general rule, once kids get a higher education, they seldom want to come back to the farm. They do still support us but in other ways. Mechanization is the only way to keep up with or increase production when labor falls off. Immigration isn’t happening, and those that do immigrate tend to move on quickly to other positions that are more lucrative when possible.”

  Selvan says they are running a 20-acre farm with eight acres improved. He still has another 120 acres that are conventionally farmed and wrap around the winery, providing memorable views and breathtaking vistas.

  BlueJacket Crossing Vineyard and Winery is located four miles east of Lawrence, just south of K10.

To learn more, schedule a visit or book a stay:

BlueJacket Crossing Vineyard & Winery

1969 North 1250th Road

Eudora, KS 66025

785-542-1764

bluejacketcrossing@gmail.com