The Stars Are the Limit

Trends Shaping Tourist Season 2024

By: Susan DeMatei, Founder of WineGlass Marketing

Can you believe it’s May? Soon rain will abate, vines will reach for the sky, and summer will be here before we know it along with, hopefully, tourists. To prepared for our always-diligent attempt at educated counsel to our clients, we’ve been reading up on all the travel trends for 2024. Will the political climate once again hijack all of America’s attention and make people wary of venturing out? Or will it be more likely to scare us to other countries for a respite abroad? If tasting room traffic is down this year as it was last year, it is even more important to know what consumers are looking for in the hopes of developing programs consumers want. The smart winery will be continually testing different experiences this year to try and attract the right customer to their brand.

Consumers Will Be Vacationing

  Forbes recently surveyed 1,000 Americans asking them about their travel plans this year and it seems wanderlust continues unabated into 2024, with Americans poised to jet set, road trip, and beach bum their way through the year. 52% of respondents bravely committed to maintaining the same travel tempo as the previous year, while an audacious 40% are revving their engines for even more escapades.

  Seems like the young’uns are leading the charge, as always. Gen Z and Millennials are showing off their travel prowess, with 56% and 49% respectively gunning for more stamps in their passports. Meanwhile, Gen X and Baby Boomers are chilling like fine wine, content to keep their travel habits on cruise control.

  What’s on the itinerary, you ask? Well, it’s a classic lineup: family visits, beach frolics, and the timeless allure of the open road. These perennial favorites are still top contenders for 2024, proving that some things never go out of style.

chart showing types of trips americans plan to take in 2024

  It’s clear that the travel bug has an expensive taste and those that are planning to travel realize it will cost them. 39% of respondents are planning to beef up their travel budgets and another 35% will maintain their spending power. How much, you ask? Well, 72% of respondents say they are ready to drop upwards of $2,000 on their escapades and nearly half are primed to dish out a minimum of $4,000 throughout the year. So price doesn’t appear to be a barrier for a good time. ( Who needs to worry about inflation when there are adventures to be had?)

  When faced with the question of how they might be willing to cut back, most opted for a “quality over quantity” approach reporting they’d rather take fewer trips or shorten the duration over cutting back on luxury or experiences.

Destination Trends

  As we review research on 2024 travel, it’s clear that we’re not just chasing destinations—we’re chasing experiences. Whether it’s savoring the silence of a remote getaway or indulging in culinary delights, we’re in pursuit of moments that linger long after the suitcase is unpacked. What follow are seven trends we feel dovetail nicely into Wine Country.

travel changes americans will make due to continued inflation

Home Swapping: A New Twist on Hospitality

  In a world where the line between work and play blurs, travelers are seeking longer stays abroad without the hefty price tag. Enter home swapping, a trend gaining momentum as remote work becomes the norm. Platforms like Twin City and Kindred offer innovative solutions, connecting travelers with like-minded individuals for mutual home exchanges. Gen Z, ever the trendsetters, are spearheading this movement on social media platforms like TikTok, using hashtags like #houseswap and #homeswap to showcase their adventures.

  WGM Ideas: What are you doing to partner with AirB2B, VRBO, Twin City and Kindred in your area? Are there “honorary” local programs you can try to these transient “residents”? How can you bring your wine into their new “home”?

Peak Season Takes a Back Seat

  The traditional peak season for travel is experiencing a shift, with travelers increasingly opting for shoulder season adventures. Luxury travel specialists report a surge in bookings for off-peak periods, citing factors like economic concerns and a desire for authentic, less crowded experiences. With flexible working arrangements on the rise, travelers are seizing the opportunity to explore popular destinations during quieter times, avoiding the crowds and high prices associated with peak season.

  WGM Ideas: Can we take a page from hotels and offer special experiences mid-week or in shoulder or hot months? Research tells us when we have the time to spend with guests, their Average Order Value goes up, so what does time allow you to offer in these slower times to make their experience extra-special and create more memories and sales?

Private Group Travel: The Ultimate Bonding Experience

  The desire to share travel experiences with friends and family is driving the rise of private group travel. From multi-generational family trips to reunions with lifelong friends, travelers are seeking meaningful connections through shared adventures. Companies like Black Tomato are catering to this demand with tailored itineraries designed to create lasting memories. Whether it’s a backcountry feast in the Grand Canyon or a rafting expedition in Peru, these experiences offer a unique way to bond with loved ones while exploring the world.

  WGM Ideas: Some of you won’t like this, but the question of what to do with kids will move from an infrequent grumble to a persistent roar as Millennials move into their 40s and want to vacation as their whole selves – teenagers, dogs and all. Even if kids aren’t an issues, large groups can sometimes become boisterous and overwhelm the ambiance. What can you do to accommodate lively group visits while keeping a luxury solemn experience for others? Can you open up one patio to only one or the other? Can you offer different time slots? The time is here where simple saying “no” to groups will mark you as inhospitable and in the minority. Best to plan ahead now and be prepared as this trend grows.

Skip-Gen Travel: Bridging Generational Divides

  Skip-gen travel, where grandparents vacation with their grandchildren, is on the rise. As families seek to strengthen bonds across generations, travel agencies are creating specialized itineraries to cater to this demand. From safari adventures to cultural immersions, these trips offer opportunities for meaningful connections and shared experiences. With an increasing number of grandparents eager to explore the world with their grandchildren, skip-gen travel is poised to become a lasting trend in the travel industry.

  WGM Ideas:  So, a 10-year-old, a 34-year-old and a 66-year-old walk into a bar…  It’s not a joke. If you’ve been smart you’ve already started to think about bifurcating your experiences and marketing to appeal to younger and older audiences so this trend should fit right into your plans. If you haven’t been smart, now is the time to rectify that. Before tourist season gets into full swing, we highly recommend creating different experiences targeted to seniors and … can we say juniors? Anyway, you get the point. Think about the comfort/height of seats down to different interest levels and non-alcoholic options. The more prepared you are the happier the guests and the more the sales.

Silent Travel: Finding Serenity in Silence

  In a world filled with noise and distraction, silent travel offers a sanctuary for weary souls. From silent meditation retreats to secluded nature resorts, travelers are seeking opportunities to disconnect and recharge. As awareness of the benefits of silence grows, so too does the demand for silent travel experiences. Whether it’s trekking the Japanese Kumano Kodo trail or exploring Finland’s Arctic landscape, these journeys offer a chance to find peace amidst the chaos of modern life.

  WGM Ideas: We know you’re going to get frustrated and say we just told you to allow kids to crawl all over your tasting room but curb the eye roll for a moment. We bet there is somewhere on your property to offer some serenity. Is there a corner, or bench or tree or trail through the vineyards you can clear off and feature as a private quiet area? Could you offer a different kind of experience that is the opposite of a guided tasting? It would be interesting to test to see if people just want to be alone. What about recording a short but insightful self-guided tour? Or something about the rabbits and owl boxes and vines they can scan with a QR code on an expertly placed sign? Just brainstorming but it’s interesting to think about and wouldn’t be hard to try.

Back-of-House Tours: A Glimpse Behind the Curtain

  As travelers become more conscious of their environmental footprint, they’re seeking experiences that prioritize sustainability and community engagement. Back-of-house tours offer a unique opportunity to see firsthand the efforts hotels are making to reduce their impact on the environment. From community outreach programs to eco-friendly initiatives, these tours provide insights into the social and environmental responsibility of hospitality businesses.

  WGM Ideas: The idea of “winery tour + sustainability discussion” intrigued us. For those of you who have gardens or do crazy magical things with cow horns – people will want a tour on that! THAT is different and something to build on. If you’re not focused quite so much about the cycles of the moon, you can still talk about running an agro-tourism business and how you fit into your particular ecosystem; what accommodations you make for wild animals, how you use sheep, or what you do to manage cover crop. Anything in the realm of working in harmony with mother earth is a trend right now that any winery can lean into.

Wild Feasting: Dining in Nature’s Embrace

  There’s something inherently special about dining al fresco, surrounded by nature’s beauty. Wild feasting takes this concept to the next level, offering curated culinary experiences in natural settings. From foraged ingredients to open-fire cooking, these experiences celebrate the connection between food and the great outdoors. As urbanites seek opportunities to reconnect with nature, wild feasting offers a chance to slow down, savor the moment, and truly appreciate the bounty of the earth.

  WGM Idea: Try to get as close to origin as possible. For those of you who have food programs, ditch the pre-packaged store-bought cheese and partner with a cheese monger.  Take a stab at drying your own jerky, salting your own nuts, or featuring local honey. Make the connections with food purveyors and see where the partnerships take you. Your customers will, literally, eat it up.

Astronomy Tourism: Seeking Solace in the Stars

  As society yearns for genuine connections with the natural world, gazing at the stars offers a sense of wonder and perspective unlike any other experience. Astronomy tourism, the practice of traveling to remote locations to observe celestial phenomena, is on the rise. Wellness-focused hotels and resorts are embracing astronomy tourism, providing guests with opportunities to marvel at the cosmos.

  Which is good because 2024 is shaping up to be an astronomical extravaganza, with celestial events galore. From total solar eclipses to dazzling meteor showers, the year promises unforgettable sights for stargazers. Scientists are even predicting the best displays of the Northern Lights in two decades, as we approach the next solar maximum.

  WGM Ideas: It would have been great if you were in the eclipse path this April, but since we can’t count on those every day, what can you do at night? Consider a club event after dinner with smores and a fire pit and guest astrologer. The goal is to get out of the cities and gain some perspective – and wine country fits the bill.

  Google searches will yield you a multitude of other tourism trends, but these were the ones we felt leaned into the winery vibe. We hope there are couple that intrigue to you brainstorm some options to try at your winery.

  And, best of luck this year in providing those Instagram-able moment because one thing is for certain; whether it’s savoring the silence of a remote getaway or indulging in wild delights, it’s clear we’re in pursuit of memories of moments that linger long after the suitcase is unpacked.

  Susan DeMatei founded WineGlass Marketing; the largest full-service, award-winning marketing firm focused on the wine industry. She is a certified Sommelier and Specialist in Wine, with degrees in Viticulture and Communications, an instructor at Napa Valley Community College, and is currently collaborating on two textbooks. Now in its 12th year, her agency offers domestic and international wineries assistance with all areas of strategy and execution. 

WineGlass Marketing is located in Napa, California, and can be reached at 707-927-3334 or wineglassmarketing.com

CBMA: A Short Guide to the Rules of the Road

By: Brad Berkman and Louis J. Terminello, Greenspoon Marder

As is said, the only thing certain is death and taxes. As it applies to beverage alcohol, the tax at issue addressed in this article is an excise tax which is based on volume and alcohol-proof gallons. There are two levels of excise taxes collected for alcoholic beverages: one at the state and the other at the federal level. As the reader likely knows, state excise tax, in most instances, is paid by the distributor. This article will examine federal alcohol beverage excise tax rates established by the U.S. Internal Revenue Code and the changes to these rates under the Craft Beverage Modernization Act (the “CBMA”).

  First, a little history, the CBMA was initially meant to be a temporary measure, however, Congress, in 2020 made the CBMA a permanent law and transferred the administration of the CBMA to the Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) on December 31, 2022. As virtually all industry members know, TTB is tasked with administering excise tax collections for domestic and foreign producers of alcoholic beverages, among many other things. In 2017, as part of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, the CBMA came into effect reducing excise taxes imposed on wine, beer, and spirits at certain volume levels, produced in the U.S. and those items produced abroad and imported into the U.S. 

  At the introduction of the CBMA, TTB was tasked with administering the domestic component of the CBMA, (that is for wine, beer and spirits produced in the U.S.), and U.S. Customs and Border Protection, (CBP), was responsible for the administration and collection of taxes for imported alcoholic beverages (as they had always done for imported alcohol). Excise tax for imports was due at the time of entry of the product into the U.S. stream of commerce, (once it cleared U.S. customs). This required thorough and accurate reporting by importers and/or their customs brokers at that time to CBP. Incorrect or incomplete reporting to CPB led to the loss of importer revenue for many wine industry members. CPB reporting requirements were, and arguably still are an arcane process.

  Under the CBMA, importers are still required to pay excise tax to CBP upon entry of the product but the administration of the CBMA for importers is now carried out by TTB. TTB has created a reasonably friendly system or portal where licensed importers can register and file their claims to receive the reduced tax benefit.

  The process requires that the foreign producer must first register with TTB, using the portal at myttb.com, and disclose certain basic information such as ownership information, email address and phone number and key contact information including key personnel. After registering, the foreign producer, through the online system, may then assign all or a portion of available CBMA credits to an appointed importer. It is worth noting here that foreign producers are allocated the same tax credit benefits as U.S. manufacturers of beverage alcohol.

  After supplying the importer information (using the importer TTB issued Basic Permit number), the foreign producer must identify the commodity (wine, beer and/or spirits), the tax rate or credit, the quantities of proof gallons or beer barrels and the tax quantities being assigned to the specific importer. Foreign producers can assign all of their credits to one importer or allocate in any way they choose to their various importers, should they have more than one.

  As a side note, it is strongly recommended that the allocation of tax credits is addressed in the negotiating process between the importer and foreign supplier and memorialized in any import agreement that may come into being between the parties. Obviously, this will help avoid future confusion and potential strains on the business relationship.

  Importers are also required to register on my.ttb.com on the importer interface and submit their refund claims electronically, which they may be eligible for as a result of the reduced rate. All that said, below is a quick and dirty reference guide for importers to refer to when navigating the CBMA process, which will assist both the foreign supplier and the importer.

For the Foreign Producer

•   Foreign producers must assign tax benefits to the US importer for importer to be eligible for the benefit.

•   Foreign producers may assign all or a limited tax benefit based on commodity type.

•   Foreign producers must first register with TTB using the link: ohttps://my.ttb.gov/.    

•   Producer will receive a foreign producer ID.

•   After the producer receives the ID, they will be able to assign the benefit to the importer on the on-line portal with TTB.

•   The foreign producer will need to provide TTB with the following information:

            o Calander year for which the benefit is being assigned.

            o The importer to whom it is being assigned using the importers TTB permit number.

            o Commodity type (wine, beer, spirits).

            o The reduced tax rate being assigned.

            o Total proof gallons that the benefit is being assigned to.

 The Importer

•   Importers pay full tax rate to Customs and Border Protection (CPB) at the time of importation.

•   To use the CBMA reduced rate, the importer must:

            o File a refund claim (online) with TTB at the close of each calendar quarter covering the entries made in that quarter.

•   At the time of entry (likely using your customs broker), importer must submit in their customs entry filings, the identity of the products that will be subject to the claim which includes:

            o Commodity type.

            o TTB Foreign Producer ID

            o The rate or credit assigned to the

             imported quantity.

            o The above information is submitted on CBP ACE system.

            **The authors advise trying to use a customs broker that is familiar with the above process.

            o Importer or its broker must file the TTB “Message Set” electronically in the ACE system.

•   Once again, the importer files its claim with TTB on a quarterly basis and once processed, TTB will pay the difference between the tax paid at entry and the credits assigned by the foreign producer.

  The CBMA offers an opportunity for importers to take advantage of reduced tax rates under the CBMA. Navigating the process is challenging and will greatly assist importers to understand the reporting processes up front so as not to leave valuable tax dollars on the table.

In Season Nutrient Management

photo of soil beneath grapevines

By: Kirk Williams, Lecturer-Texas Tech University

Nutrient management is a critical practice to have a healthy and productive vineyard.  Nutrition management in grapevines is a long-term process where nutrients can be added over time and the effects of these additions monitored over time as well.   Grapevines do not require large amounts of nutrients and the nutrients can be added in response to needs identified by soil and tissue samples

  While soil samples can give us great insight into the soil at a vineyard site they do have limitations in established vineyards.  Grapevines have a deep and extensive root system that can exist at deeper depths than common soil testing equipment can collect from.  Also, soil tests indicate relative availability and this level is not always reflected in nutrient status of the grapevine.  Soil testing in vineyards should still be done in established vineyards but a sample every three to five years is adequate to understand what is happening in your vineyard soil. 

  In season nutrient management begins with assessing the nutritional status of the grapevine.  The most common way of evaluating the current nutritional status of grapevines is through tissue analysis.  Tissue samples can be taken at bloom time or at veraision.  Sampling could also occur at both bloom time and veraision which can help you assess your in season nutrient management program.   Areas where observable problems exist should be sampled separately from areas where growth is normal.

  Tissue samples have historically been petioles but recently whole leaf samples have been utilized.   Collecting a good representative sample is critical to getting accurate results.  If you are collecting petioles, you will need 50 to 100 petioles from each block. If you are collecting leaves you will need 25 leaves per acre up to a maximum of 300 leaves per block.  Many laboratories will wash tissue samples but that will require quick shipping. 

  So, it may make sense to wash your own samples.  A few drops of phosphate free liquid detergent can be added to a basin with distilled water.  Samples should then be rinsed with distilled water for no more than 10 seconds.  Rinsing longer than 10 seconds may wash out some of the nutrients.   Samples can be dried and then shipped to the lab for processing and testing. 

  Oftentimes soil and tissue tests are deemed precise because they are actual numbers determined by a lab.   While they were determined by a lab, there are many factors that go into a fertility program for a vineyard.  There are not many black or white, right or wrong answers in vineyard fertility management. There is only a continuum of possibilities all of which are impacted by the environmental conditions of the year, the soil, the microbial population in the soil, fertilizers applied, cover crop interactions as well rootstock and scion responses to all of the above.   

  For example, in an extremely dry year, even with adequate boron in the soil and foliar applied boron, your plant tissue samples may show you are short on boron.  Low soil water status reduces boron release from organic matter and boron uptake through reduced boron transport that occurs by diffusion and mass flow to absorbing root surfaces.  The next year, under normal soil moisture conditions, your tissue samples may show adequate boron even though you did not fertilize with boron.   

  Use the soil tests and tissue tests as guides over time for your fertility program but don’t focus too much on the actual numbers, focus on the trends.  Also, don’t forget to use your eyes to see the impact of your fertility program.  

  Generally, nutrients needed in large quantities, such as Nitrogen and Potassium, are applied to the soil.  Nutrients needed in small quantities such as zinc and boron can be effectively applied to the foliage of grapevines.  We will focus on foliar fertilization for the rest of this article.  Boron and zinc can impact fruit set if they are low and are recommended to applied prior to bloom.  This timing is usually critical for prevention of many fungal diseases and these nutrients, if needed, can easily be added to a pre-bloom fungicide spray. 

  Each individual nutrient capabilities for mobility within the plant can impact how effective a foliar nutrient application is.    Mobile nutrients such as nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium are moved in the phloem from the older leaves towards the growing tip.   Deficiency symptoms will therefore occur on the older leaves.  Immobile nutrients, such as boron, calcium and iron, are not moved around in the phloem.  Deficiency symptoms will occur in younger leaves near the shoot tip. 

  In addition to nutrient mobility within the plant, nutrients can differ in their absorption through the leaves.  Rapidly absorbed nutrients include the urea form of nitrogen, potassium and zinc.  Moderately absorbed nutrients include calcium, the sulfate form of sulfur, phosphorus, manganese and boron.  Slowly absorbed nutrients include magnesium, copper, iron and molybdenum. 

  Zinc is a nutrient that is partially mobile and is rapidly absorbed through the leaves so it is a good candidate for foliar fertilization.  In contrast, iron is immobile in the plant and is slowly absorbed through the leaves so Iron is a not a good candidate for foliar fertilization. 

  Best practices for foliar fertilization include application during the cooler parts of the day, including a high-quality surfactant, good coverage of the grapevine especially the undersides of leaves and applications to young actively growing tissue. 

  Nutrient management in grapevines is an important management tool in having a productive vineyard that produces high quality fruit.  Regular tissue sampling is required year after year to get feedback on your nutrient management program to fine tune nutrient applications to each vineyard site.  Foliar nutrient applications can be an effective management tool especially for micronutrients.

  Kirk Williams is a lecturer in Viticulture at Texas Tech University and teaches the Texas Tech Viticulture Certificate program.  He is also a commercial grape grower on the Texas High Plains.  He can be contacted at kirk.w.williams@ttu.edu

Resources

  Singer, S.D., Davenport, J.R., Hoheisel, G., & Moyer, M.M. 2018. Vineyard nutrient management in Washington State.

  Western Plant Health Association.  Western Fertilizer Handbook.  10th Edition.  2023. Waveland Press, Long Grove, IL

Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard

Small Batch Wines With Big Personalities

Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard's patio with chairs, umbrellas, a small travel trailer and their rows of vineyards

By: Gerald Dlubala

Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard is a boutique farm, winery and vineyard with a notable history and a bright future. Nestled between the shores of Lake Charlevoix’s and Lake Michigan with terroir directly influenced by the Great Lakes and historical glacial drift, it happens to also be the ideal place to grow great grape varietals. The estate vineyard stretches over approximately eight acres and is owned by Jennie and Paul Silva. Its 5,000 vines are personally attended to by the Silvas and General Manager Samantha (Sam) Smiertka. Blu Dot’s balanced, hand-crafted collection of wines features primarily dry selections and provides an excellent showcase for northern cold-hearty varietals.

  Blu Dot Farm’s history and main barn structure go back to the late 1800s. Originally an asparagus farm, it’s not uncommon for visitors to still see asparagus growing alongside a nearby bike path. Legend states that the farm is named after the original farmer’s son, whose first word was blue. The mid-1960s brought horses into the mix when the farm was used, and very well known for, breeding and training horses for harness racing. As a result, a primary residence, stables, barns, and half-mile racetrack were added to the property.

A Trip to Napa Sets Off a Chain of Events

  Jennie and Paul Silva fell in love with the idea of growing grapes after a trip to Napa in 2006. After returning home and researching vineyards and grape growing, they found that the Northern Michigan terroir was ideal for grape growing. If they needed another sign that they should start a vineyard, the property across from their cottage, already named Blu Dot Farms, became available. It was an unused horse farm in some disrepair but possessing a great history. The Silvas were interested not only because it was a great place to grow a few grapes but also because it was a great property on its own, a place where people once gathered, entertained, and made lifelong memories. It longed for attention and someone to bring it back to life and preserve it in a way to be once again enjoyed and appreciated by others.

  “We decided to initially plant just a few vines, see what happens, and maybe sell some grapes,” said Jennie. “After meeting with other area vineyards, we found that there was actually a shortage of Michigan grapes, so our plan was to make about 10 cases of wine for our own personal use and sell the rest of the grapes. It would be a great family hobby.”

  Work began, with holes being dug for the trellises. When the hole auger broke due to all of the limestone underground, the Silvas felt like they were sitting on a small goldmine. The rocky, loam soil would provide many nutrients for their vines and impart a subtle and welcome mineral presence on the palate. The initial intentions of grape growing and winemaking as a family hobby blossomed into perhaps making the vineyard into a business. Jennie was inspired by a California vineyard that used an airstream on their property for guests and as a tasting room, thinking it would also be perfect for their vineyard.

  “We didn’t want to overinvest,” said Jennie. We just thought that we’d see if this thing gets legs, and if it does, then maybe we can keep going with it.”

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard was born. That’s when Smiertka answered an ad and entered the picture.

  “Sam has really met and exceeded all expectations regarding what we were hoping for and wanting in a GM,” said Silva. “She got us to where we are today and has put us in a great position for future growth and success.”

Party Girls Partnership Leads To Success

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard’s General Manager, Samantha (Sam) Smiertka, is originally from Delaware. She left a career in graphic design to follow her love and passion for grape growing and winemaking. While on an apprenticeship with a local winemaker and vineyard owner/manager, Smiertka ran their tasting room and handled their marketing functions. After this apprenticeship, she made her way across the United States, building experience and skills in the industry.

  “After that initial experience, I made my way out west and accepted a contract position in Oregon as a winemaker,” said Smiertka. “When I wanted to further explore new wines and styles, I found an employment listing for a startup wine brand and applied. That startup wine brand was Blu Dot, and here we are.”

  Saying that was the start of something big would undersell the relationship. Each individual vine gets specialized care throughout its growing cycle. The vineyard is regularly walked to ensure the vines are healthy and happy. Jennie also spends quality time talking to her vines, which the vines reportedly love.

  Now, Smiertka and Silva are affectionately known as the Blu Dot Farm’s Party Girls, always ready and willing to meet, raise a glass with, and educate their guests on the awesomeness of Northern Michigan grapes and wines.

 These Small Batch, Northern Michigan Wines May Surprise You

  Blu Dot’s wines tend to be more acid-forward, floral, citrus, white wines, and then cooler season, full-bodied reds.

  “We have two sparkling wines and 5-6 dry-style, still wines,” said Smiertka. “The sparkling wines are our fun, party-girl wines, and we offer a Brut Rosé, Rosé, Marquette, Auxerrois, and Itasca, which is new to the area.”

  “Our climate and terroir parallels many of the great winemaking regions in Europe,” said Smiertka. “There are a lot of hybrids and cold hearty varietals that can grow and excel here, including Riesling and Pinot Blanc. We currently have Marquette, Itasca, Traminette, Frontenac Gris, Sauvignon Rytos, and Auxerrois planted.”

   “We’re in our fourth growing year, and currently, our annual production is almost 3 ½ tons on under three acres this past harvest,” said Silva. “We are still young, so any purchases we make are from our valued regional partners within Michigan, and we only purchase the varietals we are actively growing on the farm. We want our guests to get used to our varietals and know what to expect from us when we do start our own production.”

  Silva says that first time visitors may be surprised at the types of wines they will experience at Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard.

  “It really is fun to see the expression on people’s faces when they taste our wines,” said Silva. “It’s not the sweet style of wine that they may be expecting. And our Itasca is a wonderful, new hybrid that came out of the University of Minnesota in 2017. We’re one of the first to plant Itasca here in Northern Michigan. It’s such an amazing wine with an almost clear color. It actually looks like water in the glass, but it is so good and popular that we sell out regularly.”

  Silva tells The Grapevine Magazine that Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard is easily accessible by bike from downtown Charlevoix or Bay Harbor. They offer music, wine by the tasting, glass or bottle, and snacks to accompany their wines. A pizza oven is also being installed and should be ready to go for those wanting a specialty pizza to complement and extend their winery experience.

You’ve Found Your Peaceful, Relaxing, Happy Place

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard want you to be happy and relaxed in their peaceful, farm-style atmosphere. On your way into the property, you’ll weave your way through vineyards on both sides of the road until you reach the iconic vintage airstream.

  “We didn’t want to take ourselves too seriously in this whole process,” said Silva. “That’s the vibe our guests have come to know, love, and look for when they visit. The airstream serves as our main tasting room from May through October and reflects our lightheartedness and desire for a fun and memorable time. It’s specifically customized to serve and function as a bar area and tasting room, complete with popup windows, unique spaces, and interior seating for a fun and memorable experience. If guests prefer to sit outside, they’ll find comfort around our firepits with picnic tables, umbrellas, and Adirondack chairs. It’s a very welcoming and fun space to be. For colder months, a small indoor tasting room is also available.”

A Future of Self-Sufficiency

  “Well, it’s safe to say that our little hobby trip to Napa 15 years ago has become very expensive,” said Silva, laughing. “And now, our vision for Blu Dot Farm & Vineyards is all about self-sufficiency. We want to bring everything in-house and be as self-sufficient as we can. We do not do any production on-premise for now, although that is definitely part of our future plans. We also plan to expand our indoor tasting room, and within a few years, we’ll hire an in-house winemaker.”

  “And thanks to a Sunday afternoon combination of a couple of glasses of wine and picking way too many apples here on the property, we played around, experimented, and produced our first cider,” said Smiertka.

  “We made one batch that came out awesome,” said Silva. “These apple trees have been here long before us, and since cider is an increasing in popularity in our region, we hope to move forward with cider production as well.”

  “We are looking forward to a fun future,” said Silva and Smiertka. “The property is amazing, and we have the opportunity to preserve and highlight its history while adding to it. We have someone who still keeps horses here, reminding everyone of the significance of this place in Standardbred Harness-Racing. At one point, this property was home to over 300 horses. It was very well known in the equestrian world. We’d love to expand on that and add additional livestock and different animals in the future to enhance the farm experience.”

  “We continue to learn as we go,” said Silva. “Our local vineyards are very collaborative-minded. It’s amazing and rewarding that our neighboring vineyards are willing to share so much information to help us. I enjoy that type of collaborative mindset because we all want everyone to be successful and help Michigan rise to the top as a wine destination. When visitors come to our region, I see the surprise on their faces regarding the quality of wines we can put out. That quality also helps attract top talent to our area.”

  Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard offers a relaxed setting to enjoy premium Northern Michigan wine with surrounding farm and vineyard views. The vintage customized airstream can comfortably accommodate up to 12 guests and is available to reserve. Outdoor seating is always available on a first-come basis, and leashed dogs are welcome.

For more information, please get in touch with Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard:

11399 Boyne City Rd.

Charlevoix, MI 49720

231.622.3753

info@bludotwine.com

Overview of Grape Crop Insurance

broken fencing and damaged grapevines

By: Trevor Troyer, 
Vice-President of Operations 
for Agricultural Risk Management

What is Federally subsidized crop insurance? What is Grape Crop Insurance and how does it work? 

The Federal Crop Insurance Corporation (FCIC) was created in 1938. Originally coverage was limited to major crops. It was basically an experiment at that time, until the passage of the Federal Crop Insurance Act in 1980. The 1980 Act expanded the number of crops insured and areas in the US. In 1996 the USDA Risk Management Agency (RMA) was created. RMA’s purpose was to administer the Federal Crop insurance programs and other risk management related programs.

  Perennials are very different from traditional row crops or vegetable crops.  But a lot of the risks are very much the same.  Drought, freeze, wildlife damage, fire/smoke and the list goes on. From what can be seen the risks can actually be more with perennials.  It doesn’t matter if it’s an apple orchard, avocado grove or vineyard, your investment is subject to the elements all year round. Things may happen after you harvest that might affect the following year’s crop production. 

  Grape Crop Insurance goes back to 1998, the current policy was written in 2010. Crop insurance is a partnership with authorized Insurance companies and the FCIC. Crop insurance is partially subsidized through the USDA. Currently there are 13 Approved Insurance Providers (AIPs) authorized to administer crop insurance policies with the USDA. Prices and premiums are set by the USDA per crop, state and county. There is no price/premium competition from one company to the next because of this. Independent insurance agents sell for these 13 different insurance providers.

  Grape crop insurance is available in the following states; Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Idaho, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Texas, Virginia and Washington. Crop insurance is not available for grapes in all counties though. Insurable varieties are also different between states and counties. As mentioned, before prices are different between states and counties as well. The USDA price for a ton of Pinot Noir in Oregon is different than a ton of Pinot Noir in New York.

Grapes are insured under an Actual Production History (APH) plan of insurance. An average of the vineyard’s production per variety is used. Grapes need to be in their 4th growing season to be insurable. A minimum of 4 years is needed to do the average, if the grapes have just become insurable then a Transitional Yield (based on the county and variety) is used in place of any missing years. A maximum of 10 years can be used to determine the average if a vineyard has been in production for that amount time. Basically, you are insuring an average of your tons per acre per variety.

  With crop insurance you cannot cover 100% of your average production. You can choose coverage levels from 50% to 85%. There is a built-in production deductible. Coverage levels are in 5% increments. Coverage levels are relative to premium, the lower the coverage the lower the premium, the more coverage you buy the higher the premium. It comes back to how much risk you feel safe with. For example, if you have Cabernet Sauvignon and your average is 5 tons per acre. At the 75% coverage level you would be covered for 3.75 tons per acre. You would have a 25% deductible (1.25 tons per acre). To have a payable loss you would have to lose more than 25% of your average production in a year.

  Crop insurance is designed to help a grower have enough money to be able to produce a crop the following year.  It is not set up to replace profits lost from an insurable cause.  I have had winery owners complain to me that it doesn’t cover the cost of how much their wine is worth.  While I can totally understand this, it is the growing costs that are being insured against loss. Crop insurance does not cover the production costs of making wine or juice etc.  Only the Causes of Loss that are listed in the policy are being insured against.  It doesn’t cover the inability of a grower to sell his grapes or broken contracts with wineries or processors. 

  Here are the Causes of Loss for Grapes from the National Fact Sheet from the USDA:

Causes of Loss

You are protected against the following:

•    Adverse weather conditions, including natural perils such as hail, frost, freeze, wind, drought, and excess precipitation;

•    Earthquake;

•    Failure of the irrigation water supply, if caused by an insured peril during the insurance period;

•    Fire;

•    Insects and plant disease, except for insufficient or improper application of pest or disease control measures;

•    Wildlife; or

•    Volcanic eruption.

Additionally, we will not insure against:

•    Phylloxera, regardless of cause; or

•    Inability to market the grapes for any reason other than actual physical damage for an insurable cause of loss

  Crop insurance is partially subsidized through the USDA. Premiums are subsidized from 100% at Catastrophic Coverage (there is an administrative fee though) to 38% depending on coverage level chosen.  A lot of growers “buy-up” coverage from 65% to 80% and their premium subsidy is around 50% to 60%. 

  Hopefully you don’t have a lot situations where you would have a loss.  But as a grower you need

to assess your risks.  These have to be taken into consideration for the growing region your vineyard is located in. Here are some other questions to ask yourself.  What are your break-even costs?  Do you know your cost of production with projected inflation? Have you evaluated the risk of a severe crop loss? What varieties are planted in your vineyard?  Some types of Vitis vinifera are more susceptible to weather issues than others. Are you able to repay current operating loans without crop insurance in the event of a loss?

  Our job as a crop insurance agent or crop insurance agency is not to convince you that you need crop insurance.  It is to help you make an educated decision, based on your risks, on whether or not you need crop insurance.  And then, if it is a good fit to mitigate your risks, to determine how much coverage is needed.  No one wants to have a loss but they do unfortunately happen.

Best Practices for Wastewater Management in the Winery

water feature in vineyard

By: Alyssa L. Ochs

It is common knowledge that wineries produce a significant amount of wastewater. Still, it’s imperative to understand your winery’s wastewater characteristics to choose the right solution. Fortunately, many eco-friendly options are available now to help wineries reduce their environmental impact while using water. These options can also help you stay within compliance regulations without much labor, eliminate the need for extensive pond dredging, address water reclamation concerns and recycle water quickly and effectively.

  This article will cover best practices, recycling, monitoring, cleaning, sanitation and technologies for wastewater management to guide wineries in choosing the best options for their operations.

Traditional and Modern Wastewater Solutions

  Technologies used for winery wastewater typically fit into four categories: physiochemical, biological, advanced oxidation and membrane. Physiochemical technologies include precipitation, coagulation, sedimentation and electrocoagulation methods. Aerobic biological technologies include membrane bioreactors and conventional activated sludge process methods, while anaerobic biological processes feature anaerobic sequencing batch reactor methods. Advanced oxidation methods are sulfate radical- TiO2- or ozone-based, while reverse osmosis is used for membrane technologies.

  Types of treatment systems applicable to wineries include lagoons to treat wastewater organic material and artificial wetlands using plants to break down organic matter. There are also bioreactor methods with small footprints to maximize usable vineyard space and conventional activated sludge that features a mix of wastewater and oxygen to ensure that microbial organisms break down organic matter.

  Yoni Szarvas, the founder, president, CEO, and chairman of AquaBella Organic Solutions, told The Grapevine Magazine about several wastewater approaches available to wineries today. Founded in 2008, AquaBella is a socially responsible company headquartered in Sebastopol, California that delivers the power of naturally beneficial bacteria to reduce water pollutants and create higher crop yields. The company aims to reduce the need for chemical fertilizers, boost agricultural lands’ long-term sustainability and fertility and break down organic pollutants to clarify water.

  Szarvas explained that traditional approaches to wastewater management typically involve using a wastewater pond or series of ponds to remove contaminants until the water quality standards are met.

  “A more modern approach is to use a modular treatment system, which potentially is more cost-effective than surface water ponds,” Szarvas said. This approach involves installing prefab above-ground tanks instead of excavating wastewater lagoons. Many wineries use wetland reclamation technology, which has the added benefit of acting as a carbon sink and minimizing CO2 release into the atmosphere.”

Characteristics of Winery Wastewater

  Winery wastewater typically has a low pH of three to four, nitrogen levels of up to 500 milligrams per liter, a high biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) of up to 10,000 milligrams per liter and high turbidity. The characteristics of wastewater will vary by the season but must always be kept in mind by vineyard owners to prevent foul odors and protect water quality. Some wineries turn to companies like Specialty Treatment Solutions (STS), to devise customized wastewater treatment plans based on wastewater characteristics. ClearBlu Environmental and BioMicrobics, Inc. are additional companies that serve the winery market with wastewater treatment solutions.

Effluents and Contaminant Burdens

  Wine industry wastewater is primarily produced from cleaning equipment and machinery, such as tanks, destemmers, pumps, tubes and filters. Wineries also produce wastewater when employees wash fermentation tanks, bottles and barrels. Some wastewater comes from spillages that happen during winemaking transfers, too. Harvesting, cellaring and bottling processes all produce wastewater, and multi-step treatments are typically required regardless of whether you choose traditional or new-technology methods.

  Approximately half of a winery’s annual wastewater comes from harvesting, a time of the year that only lasts a few weeks. Even worse, harvest wastewater has the highest contaminant burdens as employees work long days pressing grapes, cleaning equipment and handling accidental spillages. Cellaring-generated wastewater is produced during the wine’s maturation phase, when fermentation tanks are cleaned and wines are clarified cold before bottling. Effluents from cellaring wastewater tend to have a high pH. The lowest wastewater contaminant burden comes from bottling processes, as employees clean bottles and disinfect equipment during their workdays. The type of wastewater produced will dictate the appropriate treatment method, depending on whether it will be discharged into the public sewer system, released into a natural waterway or used to irrigate the vineyard.

How to Manage Winery Wastewater

  The first step in treating winery wastewater is to address the solids since solids may hinder the rest of the treatment processes. During pretreatment and neutralization, make sure to adjust the pH to ensure effluents can be discharged properly. Once liquids are separated from solids, the primary treatment process should eliminate around 30 to 40 percent of organic matter. Secondary treatment processes dissolve nutrients and organic matter, typically using nitrogen and phosphorus. Advanced treatment options are available for wastewater that will be reused within the winery’s operations.

  Good water and wastewater management can reduce operations costs, time and labor when carried out properly. Along with improved production efficiency and lower disposal fees and surcharge costs, wastewater practices can also help you promote your winery as a sustainable business in the local community. There is a growing demand for environmentally-friendly production, and managing wastewater is a practical and tangible way to stand out in a crowded marketplace while also staying ahead of changing water regulations and risks of natural disasters.

Recycling and Reusing Wastewater

  Vineyards can reuse wastewater for irrigation and other purposes after performing advanced treatments, such as disinfection through ultraviolet radiation and ozone-based oxidation. After the second treatment, employees filter effluent using a granular sand bed and then proceed with ultrafiltration or another membrane-filtration process before reverse osmosis.

  As Szarvas from AquaBella pointed out, vineyards generally reuse wastewater once contaminants have been removed.

  “Land application is a common reuse of this water which helps keep costs down, especially for smaller vineyards,” he said. “There may be additional opportunities to recover energy from wastewater and solid waste, such as pomace in the form of biogas.”

Monitoring, Cleaning and Sanitizing Processes

  Keeping up with wastewater management and monitoring cleanliness and sanitation is always the best approach to any wastewater plan. Try to work ahead as much as possible to keep up with these tasks.

  “This means having good sanitation practices in place prior to treatment and exploring options that minimize the use of cleaners that will either interfere with the wastewater treatment process or add to the waste stream,” said Szarvas from AquaBella. “Regular testing of the wastewater for common vineyard contaminants, such as nitrogen, salinity and organic matter as indicated by biochemical oxygen demand are used prior to land application of the treated wastewater.”

Choosing a Wastewater Management Strategy

  Of course, there are many factors to consider before deciding on a wastewater treatment system, including local and state regulations that define the maximum levels of biochemical oxygen demand, nitrogen and salinity for disposal on land. Cost is a significant consideration, especially labor prices and costs for chemicals and maintenance time. As a winery owner, you’ll also need to think about how much land you have to dedicate to wastewater management, the capacity of your staff to handle wastewater tasks and creative ways to repurpose wastewater to your advantage.

  Szarvas from AquaBella explained to The Grapevine Magazine that there is no one-size-fits-all treatment option for all vineyards.

  “Vineyards are in a unique position due to the seasonal nature of the wastewater generated,” he said. “Only during ‘crush,’ when grapes are harvested and pressed, do they generate a significant amount of wastewater. Wastewater treatment approaches need to be cost-effective for a large amount of waste for this short period of time. A treatment approach that has the capacity necessary to meet this need is essential.”

  For example, AquaBella Organic Solutions makes a low-cost microbe-based water treatment product, AquaBella Bio-Enzyme. This product works without having to build on or improve existing water treatment infrastructure and can significantly shorten the timeline required for nitrogen, BOD and organic matter treatment. This allows a higher volume of wastewater to be processed more rapidly.

  “AquaBella Bio-Enzyme also works in a wide range of pH and salinity conditions,” said Szarvas. “AquaBella Bio-Enzyme can rapidly break down and remove organic matter in process water, resulting in improved dissolved oxygen, reduced BOD and volatile dissolved solids while helping to control odors.”

  Looking ahead to the future, winery owners must pay close attention to energy and material prices when addressing their wastewater concerns. There is a significant need for economical solutions to serve the increasing needs and limited budgets of small and medium-sized wineries. In-demand innovations being researched include technological solutions to ensure winery wastewater is reusable at food-grade quality, compact equipment to minimize the land footprint and anaerobic treatment solutions that produce methane to become at least partially self-sufficient.

  In the meantime, winery staff members can do their part to track and monitor water use, fix leaks and use the right tools for the job when handling water. Simple and no-cost best practices, like following established procedures for cleaning and sanitizing and providing employee training and incentives for proper wastewater management, can go a long way in improving wastewater disposal, usage and quality at a winery.

Celebrating the 40th Anniversary of Oregon’s Willamette Valley AVA

rows and rows of vineyards in Oregon

By: Becky Garrison

This year marks the 40th anniversary of Oregon’s Willamette Valley AVA, which runs from Portland in the North to Eugene in the South. According to the Willamette Valley Wineries Association’s website this AVA consists of 931 vineyards and 736 wineries that represent a total 3,438,000 acres. Currently this AVA has 11 nested AVAs that contain two-thirds of the 1,110+ wineries in Oregon.

  While wine has been made in the Willamette Valley since the 1880s, initially this land was considered too cold and wet to grow great grapes even though it is close to the same latitude as Burgundy, France. In 1965, David and Diana Lett picked up on this distinction and planted 3,000 Pinot noir vines in 1965 at The Eyrie Vineyard near Dundee. Other early wine pioneers included Dick Erath, the Knudsens, and the Sokol Blossers.

  A key factor in the early development of the Willamette Valley was the passage in Oregon of the Land Conservation and Development Act (Senate Bill 100). Signed into law on May 29, 1973, this bill set aside land for future agricultural use.

  This AVA’s last recorded harvest resulted in 84,328 tons, which represents 73.5% of the state’s total crop. The majority of grapes planted are Pinot noir (70%) followed by Pinot gris (16%) and Chardonnay (7.5%). In recent years, some growers have been experimenting with other varietals like Pinot blanc, Riesling, Melon, Gewürztraminer, sparkling wine, Sauvignon blanc, Syrah, and Gamay..

  The region’s general attributes that make this valley ideal for growing cool climate grapes include the protection provided by the Coast Range mountains to the west, the Cascade Mountains to the East, and a series of lower hills at the extreme north of the valley. Drew Voit, Owner/Winemaker, Harper Voit Winery (McMinnville, OR) has been making wine for over twenty-five years, as well as consulting with other wineries situated throughout the Willamette Valley. In his estimation, the Willamette Valley represents the Goldilocks zone in terms of climate and latitude. “We have a particularly long growing season with a cool climate, mild winters, warm and dry summers.”

  Furthermore, the unique characteristics of each of the 11 nested AVAs allow for a surprising wide range of wine expressions. As Voit observes, “There’s diversity even within neighboring vineyards. You really have to listen to each vineyard and embrace the terroir of that particular site.”

  From 2005 to 2006, six sub-AVAs were formed: Dundee Hills, Yamhill-Carlton, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Chehalem Mountains and Eola-Amity Hills.

Dundee Hills AVA: The Dundee Hills AVA has the distinction of being where the first grapes in the Willamette Valley were planted, and it remains the most densely planted locale in Oregon. The region’s Jory soils are formed in colluvium derived from basic igneous rock resulting in well-drained very deep soils. This soil was named after Jory Hill, a town in Marion Country named after the Jory family who settled this area in 1852. Voit states how this AVA’s soil produces powerful red fruit with strong floral notes and a classic balance.

Ribbon Ridge AVA: With only 500 planted acres, this AVA nestled within the Chehalem Mountains AVA represents the smallest AVA in Oregon, as well as one of the most prestigious wine growing regions in the world. Most vineyards in this AVA are protected climatically by the larger landmasses surrounding it, and are dry farmed due to the lack of aquifers. The area is comprised primarily of the Willakenzie series of well-drained and moderately deep sedimentary soils that are ideal for growing complex Pinot noirs with earth notes of dark cherry and rose petal.

Yamhill-Carlton AVA: Situated at the foothills of the Coastal range, the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, contains around 60,000 acres centered around the hamlets of Carlton and Yamhill. This region was known for logging, nurseries, fruit tree orchards, wheat fields, and logging until 1974 when Pat and Joe Campbell and Roy and Betty Wahle planted Elk Cove Vineyard and Wahle Vineyard respectively. In Voit’s estimation, this region produces intense, dark and rich grapes similar to Ribbon Ridge, though he adds that the wines from Yamhill and Carlton may have similar marine sediments, but they possess different and distinctive aromatic tones.

McMinnville AVA: This AVA begins a few miles to the west of McMinnville and then extends approximately 20 miles south-southwest toward the mouth of the Van Duzer Corridor. This AVA’s most prominent geological feature is the Nestuca Formation, a 2,000-foot bedrock formation consisting of weathered volcanic and sedimentary soil that sits on top of marine bedrock. Pinot noir grapes harvested from this AVA tend to exhibit darker fruit flavors and a strong backbone of tannin rounded out by earth, spice, and mineral notes due to the AVA’s drier and cooler temperatures.

Chehalem Mountains AVA: This AVA’s history dates back to 1968 when Dick Erath purchased 49 acres on Dopp Road in Yamhill County that he named Chehalem Mountain Vineyard. He was joined by other pioneers in the 1970s, including the Adelsheim and Ponzi families. The Chehalem Mountains AVA was formally approved in 2006. The Chehalem Mountains are made up of several spurs, ridges, and hilltops with the tallest point Bald Peak, at 1,633-feet above sea level. These features shelter the vineyards from the high winds that blow south through the Columbia Gorge. The soils found throughout this AVA consist of marine sedimentary soils, volcanic soils, and a series of loess called Laurelwood, which is a a geologically younger windblown silty soil of glacial origin.

Eola-Amity Hills AVA: While this agricultural history of this area near Salem dates back to the mid-1850s, winemakers like Don Byard of Hidden Springs didn’t discover this region as an ideal place for growing high-quality wine grapes until the 1970s. The soils of the Eola-Amity Hills consist predominantly of volcanic basalt from ancient lava flows. This feature when combined with alluvial deposits and marine sedimentary rocks results in a rockier and shallower well-drained soils that result in small grapes that are highly concentrated. As Voit observes, this AVA, is impacted by the Pacific Ocean influence where the winds rapidly cool the valley at night, thus helping the grapes retain their acidity as they ripen. “This produces wines with lots of spicy, savory and other non-fruit characteristics that are very compelling and distinctive.”

  From 2019 to 2022, five additional nested AVAs were formed: Van Duzer Corridor, Tualatin Hills, Laurelwood District, Lower Tom AVA and Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon.

The Van Duzer Corridor AVA: This AVA, which went into effect in 2019, consists primarily of marine sediments is a natural break in the Coast Range results in afternoon winds that are 40 to 50 percent stronger when compared to other Willamette Valley AVAs. Voit works extensively with this AVA that he describes as the most Pacific Ocean influenced place in the Valley. “If a vineyard is in the windward blast zone of those strong breezes, there’s rapid cooling in the evening and howling winds. The winds are a little more delicate on leeward side of the hills.” This wind variability leads diverse wines that are both compelling and distinctive with an overall a cooling afternoon effect that dries out the vine canopy and degrees the presence of fungus, along with thickening the grape skins, which produces and abundance of tannin and anthocyanins (color).

The Tualatin Hills AVA: 2020 marked the approval of the Tualatin Hills AVA, a 15-mile stretch of land situated in the far Northwestern corner of the Willamette Valley that is is defined by the watershed of the Tualatin River with an elevation range between 200 and 1,000 feet. This AVA has a lower rainfall, cooler springtime temperatures and more temperate and drier weather during fall harvest as it’s sheltered by the Coast Range and Chehalem mountains. In addition, this AVA features the largest concentration in Oregon of Laurelwood soil, which is a windblown volcanic soil mixed with basalt (loess) deposited by the Missoula Floods at the end of the last ice age.

Laurelwood District AVA: In this same year the Laurelwood District AVA, which comprises more than 25 wineries and 70 vineyards, got approved as a result of petitioning by Ponzi Vineyards and Dion Vineyards. This AVA nested within the Chehalem Mountains AVA comprises more than 25 wineries and 70 vineyards with Laurelwood soil as the predominant soil found on the north- and east-facing slope of the Chehalem Mountains. The Laurelwood District AVA encompasses over 33,000 acres and includes the highest elevation in the Willamette Valley, at 1,633 feet. Laurelwood soil is composed of a 15-million-year-old basalt base with a loess (windblown freshwater silt) top layer accumulated over the past 200,000 years and at depths of 4’ to 0” depending on the elevation.

Lower Long Tom AVA: The next AVA to be approved was the Lower Long Tom AVA, which was established in November 2021 and is situated at the southern Willamette Valley. The AVA’s 24 vineyards are located on stream-cut ridge lines running east to west This AVA is situated within the west side of the Lower Long Tom Watershed and dominated by Bellpine soil. This term is used to describe moderately deep, well drained soils that are formed in the colluvium and residuum derived from sedimentary rocks. This region tends to have hotter days and cooler nights with more planting at higher evaluations. Voit observes how this combination tends to produce intense exotic wines that are unlike anything in the valley.

Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon:  The latest AVA is Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA established in June 2022. Located 15 miles west of Salem, Oregon, this AVA is defined by the rain shadow of Laurel Mountain to the west, a mild influence from the Van Duzer winds, and the warmth of the Willamette River. While this is the Valley’s second smallest AVA at 5,530 acres, it’s also one of the most densely planted AVAs was 584 acres planted with Willakenzie, Bellpine, and Jory, along with some Nekia soils.

The Future of Willamette Valley Wine

  Even though the number of wineries in the Willamette Valley has doubled since 2005, most wineries fall into the boutique category producing under 5,00 cases a year with many of the vineyards and wineries remaining family owned and operated. Prior to 1990 only two major Pinot noir clones represented the vast majority of Pinot noir grapes produced in the Willamette Valley Since then, these vineyards now plant over a dozen varieties of Pinot nor clones.

  As a testament to this region’s commitment to sustainability and regenerative agriculture, Oregon produces 1% of wine made in US but is home to 52% of Demtmer Certified Biodynamic wineries. Other similar initiatives include Salmon Safe, which promotes products made without pesticides or causing runoff that would harm salmon and LIVE (LoW Impact Viticulture and Enology) certification of sustainable practices.

  In Voit’s estimation, the quality of vineyard farming and winemaking has exponentially grown and expanded resulting in wines with fewer technical flaws. “This is partly because the industry is older. But also, climate change put us into a position where we need to understand how to deal with very difficult seasons,” Voit says.

  In celebration of this region’s bounty, the International Pinot Noir Celebration was launched in 1987 as an annual summer celebration held in July that brings together international Pinot Noir producers, Northwest chefs, and wine aficionados for a celebratory educational weekend. Also in 2000, a group of Oregon wineries launched Oregon Pinot Camp, a weekend of presentations, seminars, and tastings dedicated to Pinot Noir. While this event was designed as a one-time event but has since become an annual summer event.

  As a sign of the region’s push towards diversity, the Willamette Valley is host to the Asian American Pacific Islanders Food and Wine Fest in May, the Queer Wine Fest in June, and the Women in Wine: Fermenting Change in Oregon Conference in July. Other Willamette Valley wine events reported in earlier issues of The Grapevine Magazine include Women in Wine (May/June 2023) and Alt Wine Festival (March/April 2023) with upcoming events posted at the Willamette Valley Wine’s website at https://www.willamettewines.com/things-to-do/events

Effective Tools to Combat Vinyard Pests

mealybugs on grapevine

By: Cheryl Gray

No vineyard wants to watch its profits disappear. Yet, left undetected, pests can feed and multiply on the fruit, vine, leaf, root and even the soil of vineyard plants. While many of these threats are undetectable to the naked eye, the end result is all too visible. Pests multiply, spread disease and ultimately cost vineyards money through lost crops and vineyard plants.  

  Scientists have long considered what methods work best for grape growers who want to protect their crops without harming the environment. Multiple studies have been published, including those from the National Center for Biotechnical Information, which is under the umbrella of the National Institutes of Health. Those studies point to multiple defense strategies, specifically, ways to increase the populations of natural predators as well as the controlled use of biochemicals. These methods aim to destroy microorganisms and pests by targeting their ability to reproduce. The first and most important rule of engagement is knowing the enemy. 

  Among the most destructive pests for vineyards are mealybugs. Experts say these culprits can travel from vineyard to vineyard, sometimes on equipment, vineyard workers or by whatever means they can hitch a ride. The first stop for these pests is usually the vine trunk wood, where they set up during the winter. As early as spring, the mealybugs make their way onto the canopy. Before long, they wind up on the grapes, where they infect the fruit with egg sacs and larvae. Left uncontrolled, mealybug infestations can not only reduce crop yield but can also lead to plant stress and, ultimately, plant death.

  Scientists say that natural enemies of these vineyard wreckers include a predator beetle known as the “mealybug destroyer.” Its scientific moniker is Cryptolaemus Montrouzieri. Another natural predator is a parasite known as the Anagyrus wasp. Both are produced by the millions each year by a California cooperative, Associates Insectary, which specializes in integrated pest management systems.

  Associates Insectary, founded in 1928, brands itself as the only producer of the mealybug destroyer beetle in the United States. The co-op, headquartered in Santa Paula, California, says it has the capability to ship these and other beneficial insects not only to its regional customers but also to global markets throughout North America, Central America and Asia.

  How does IPM work in the vineyard using natural predators? For mealybug control, the battle is all about appetite. The mealybug destroyer beetle basically eats through an infestation of mealybugs, feasting on every stage, from egg sacs to larvae to fully grown pests. The female beetles lay more than 400 eggs, making for a ready army to combat mealybugs.

  Unlike the Anagyrus wasp, in which only the female wasps attack mealybugs (by laying eggs inside them), an entire “family” of mealybug destroyer beetles – male, female, juvenile and adult beetles—literally feed on these pests. Many IPM programs use a combination of the destroyer mealybug beetle and the parasitic wasp to fight mealybugs.

  Another benefit to deploying mealybug destroyer beetles in the vineyard is that they go undetected by ants, which have a symbiotic relationship with the mealybug. Again, it is about one insect feeding off another. Ants consume the honeydew that the mealybug secretes, the same honeydew that can destroy grapevines. In exchange for an unending food source, the ants defend mealybugs from other predators – all except the mealybug destroyer beetles. 

  Controlling the ant population that defends its mealybug “meal ticket” is a separate challenge for vineyards. Among the most destructive ant species to vineyards is the Argentine ant, which became more prevalent in California vineyards during the late 1980s. Containing an ant population in the vineyard usually requires a controlled chemical application, including bait systems and spray options.

  The Entomological Society of America (ESA) has published studies about the Argentine ant and its impact on vineyards, particularly in California. As the largest organization of its kind in the world, the ESA is focused on serving the professional and scientific needs of entomologists and individuals in related disciplines. This, of course, includes grape growers who need to know how to rid their vineyards of pests without harming the environment.

  In the case of Argentine ants, experts say it is important to recognize that ant colonies operate with a hierarchy all their own. While chemical sprays can kill or repel forager ants, the ones that go out for food, those ants are easily replaced with other foragers. Moreover, entomologists note that foraging ants comprise only a small number of ant colonies. This means that spray applications may be somewhat limited in that they are not likely to affect either the queen ants or larvae protected within the ant colonies. The other downside of sprays is that some chemicals can break down within 30 days and harm beneficial insects and the environment.

  Experts say that baits offer an alternative to sprays. Many contain a slow-acting insecticide with the idea that once an ant comes in contact with the bait, it will bring that bait back to the nest, expose it to other ants and, as a result, more ants die. The added plus is that the small amount of insecticide in baits is unlikely to impact either the environment or the natural predators that attack mealybugs and other pests. 

  Suterra is an Oregon-based company that specializes in providing a comprehensive IPM program that includes controlling ants in the vineyard with bait deployment. The type of bait and overall treatment is contingent upon the species of ant being treated and the location of the vineyard.

  Suterra produces hundreds of products that are used by its agricultural clients worldwide, including more than 400,000 acres just in the state of California. Part of its lineup includes products manufactured to disrupt the mating pattern of mealybugs by imitating chemicals known as pheromones. Pheromones are naturally occurring chemicals emitted by organisms that allow them to connect within the same species. The chemicals serve multiple functions, including searching for food sources, identifying potential dangers and finding a potential mate.

  Suterra’s Celada™ VMB vapor dispenser works by deploying a continuous synthetic pheromone release that is designed to disrupt the mating pattern among mealybugs. The idea is to confuse the males by keeping them away from the females of the species. The Celada™ VMB vapor dispenser lasts for a full year and is designed to blend into the vineyard with its unique color and shape. Suterra has other products designed to disrupt the mating patterns of mealybugs, such as CheckMate® VMB-F, a sprayable microencapsulated formula and CheckMate® VMB-XL, a membrane dispenser. The active ingredient in both products is a synthetic replica of the sexual reproduction pheromone of the mealybug.

  When vineyards consider what equipment to use to combat pests, multiple factors come into play, such as vineyard size, specific needs and, of course, how much of its budget is devoted to pest control. Spray Innovations has answers. The company,

headquartered in Grand Island, Nebraska, not only services the cattle industry but also other agricultural sectors, including grape growers. It has been

operating for some 40 years. Chris Whiting is the sales manager for the company and shares details about some of its popular products and how they save time and money for clients.

  “Our most popular sprayers for vineyards are our 10-nozzle dual volutes,” Whiting said. “This volute allows the grower to drive down the row and spray both sides with one pass, reducing time in the field. We have several models available in our Little Hercules engine-driven line (rope or electric start versions available) and our PTO-driven line.”

  He went on to share, “Our sprayers are all built in-house at our Grand Island, Nebraska location. We fabricate 90 percent of the parts that go into our sprayers, which cuts down on costs. We sell most of our sprayers directly, so there is no middleman, and we can keep the cost down. Our frames are powder-coated and include a 10-year warranty. Our volutes are all made with galvanized sheet metal, which is more rigid and can take more abuse than volutes made out of plastic.”

  Customers of Spray Innovations include Krista Hartman, co-owner of Red River Wines and Provisions at the Hartman Vineyard in Sadler, Texas. She gives the Spray Innovations P-D15-611 Mist Sprayer a “thumbs up” for performance. 

  “The fine mist and powerful fan system deliver uniform and thorough coverage with all my spray program products,” Hartman said. “I love how I can turn off either volute individually for end rows or a specific target area if needed. This was a big investment for my small vineyard operation, and well worth it. I save time, use less product, feel safer while spraying and keep my canopy as healthy as the elements allow, thanks to this terrific machine.”

  Whether using chemical applications or natural predators, grape growers can deploy an arsenal of weapons to fight vineyard pests from fruit to root. Understanding timing, weather, equipment use and appropriate application of either biochemicals or the release of natural enemies all affect results.

The Beaujolais “Nouvelle” Generation

man pouring wine in crowded place

By: Tod Stewart

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! Readers of a certain vintage may recall the pandemonium at the local wine purveyor upon the unleashing of that phrase. It was the official annual call for wine lovers to storm the shelves and grab as many bottles as possible (or cases) of the year’s first ferment.

  Beaujolais nouveau was never (and still isn’t) a particularly great wine, but then again, it wasn’t meant to be. The wine itself was simply “a means to an event,” for lack of a better way to state it. Originally meant to celebrate the vintage and slake the thirst of the French workers who’d been toiling in the vineyards, Beaujolais nouveau morphed into an international phenomenon, spawning a plethora of fun, fruity, fast-fermented wines around the globe – and also spawning global parties.

  A major bonus of the nouveau craze, insofar as the region’s winemakers were concerned, was the spreading of the word Beaujolais far and wide. The downside may have been that all Beaujolais started to become lumped together in the minds of consumers, leading to the incorrect assumption that, in spite of the wine’s (subtle) diversity, it was all fun, fruity, light and inconsequential.

  “I would agree on the fun and fruity description. Light, not so sure,” contends Phillippe Marx, commercial director for Vinescence, a 350-producer-strong cooperative established in 1929. With growers spread over 2,970 acres across the region, Vinescence is able to offer selections from every Beaujolais category. 

  “With the recent climate evolution, we have wines with 13 percent alcohol that I would not describe as light,” he suggests. (Indeed, I recently had one that was 14 percent.) “If you are speaking about the structure, yes, we have less structure and body than wines made from cabernet or zinfandel, but what we do have is elegance – something that a larger share of the consumers are looking for.”

  The profile of Beaujolais wines as being “elegant” rather than “opulent” stems from a couple of factors. The first is the grape variety used. The second has to do with what’s done with it.

  The Gamay grape (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, if you want to be precise) is the Beaujolais grape. Sure, there are plantings in other parts of France (notably the Loire Valley) and in pockets scattered around the globe (it does quite well in Ontario’s Niagara region). But in no other region is it as dominant as in Beaujolais. In fact, about 98 percent of all vines planted in the region are Gamay. Thin-skinned, early-ripening and moderately vigorous, Gamay, more often than not, yields red wines relatively high in acid, low in tannin and eminently fruity – both on the nose and in the mouth. The grape’s qualities are enhanced via a semi-carbontic fermentation process, where whole grape clusters (including stems) are, in the words of Jancis Robinson, MW, “…fermented whole, fast and relatively warm, with some pumping over and a high proportion of added press wine….” This can last for as little as three days (in the case of nouveau) and up to 16 for the more top-level cru Beaujolais.

  “The typical carbonic maceration of full grapes enables us to express all the aromatic potential of the Gamay grape,” Marx confirms. “In the last decade, we rediscovered the possibilities offered by using oak and some longer maceration time. For some of our crus like Morgon and Moulin à Vent, or some single vineyard wines, we are also working in a more Burgundian style of vinification, with destemming and longer skin contact. This adds more structure to the wine, and with soft oak aging, enables us to smooth the tannins and reveal the full depth of the wine. This approach enables us to take advantage of the versatility of Gamay, and give [it] the chance to show all [its] potential, from the soft juicy Chiroubles to the earthy Côte de Brouilly and the soft bodied Morgon,” he explains.

  Of course, the supple, easy-drinking nature of Beaujolais wines might have the “Napa cab crowd” dismissing them as less than “serious.” Marx responds to such criticism in a way that leaves me nodding (rather enthusiastically) in agreement. “Regarding serious, who said wine has to be serious? Wine is about sharing pleasure and good vibes. Serious is such an old way of approaching wine; a time when it was reserved for serious [air quotes] people. Beaujolais is a wine that speaks to all consumers – young and old – who are looking just to enjoy a nice glass or to discover the complexity that a mature Gamay wine can offer.”

  Delving a bit more deeply into what differentiates the styles of various Beaujolais wines – from Beaujolais to Beaujolais-Villages, to the ten crus de Beaujolais – Marx notes that a winemaker aims for different outcomes depending on the pedigree of the wine being produced.

  “We at Vinescence have the chance to produce all the wines from Beaujolais, from Beaujolais Nouveau to each of the single crus. When producing Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, you are trying to extract something different than when you produce, for example, a single vineyard Morgon. For the first ones, you look to keep the fruit and the freshness. For the other one, you are trying to have more extraction and reveal all the potential.

  This potential is the combination of the soil, the exposure and the altitude. So yes, nature gives you a different potential, and with your specific vinification style, you try to express the best of this potential. For instance, we age some of our crus in oak barrels to underline the structure, but we decided that this is not an option for our Beaujolais Villages. This is not what we are looking for in a villages-level wine. In Beaujolais we are fortunate to have a whole spectrum of different profiles due to that combination of natural elements – our role is to express them in the best possible way.”

Speaking of different profiles, there’s also been increased interest in Beaujolais Rosé and especially Beaujolais Blanc.

  “Beaujolais Rosé remains, in my opinion, a niche market. We are not competitive on prices because of our limited yield,” admits Cathy Lathuiliere, owner and winemaker for Domaine de Lathuiliere-Gravallon, an estate that dates back to 1875. “On the other hand, it is another story for Beaujolais Blanc, which is becoming more and more in demand. Indeed it is a chardonnay similar to Bourgogne wine, which is becoming more and more inaccessible in terms of price. Some customers who previously bought a generic white Burgundy at a reasonable price have switched to Beaujolais Blanc, which can be an excellent alternative.”

  In fact, one of the tenants of “Beaujolais Nouvelle Generation” – the ten-year roadmap developed by Inter Beaujolais (the Beaujolais wine council) is to diversify the region’s wine portfolio by placing additional emphasis on rosé (short-term goal) and white wines (mid- to long-term goal).

  Of course, one element the winemakers of Beaujolais have had to contend with (touched on earlier in the story) – and one with which they have no control over is the effect of climate change. Interestingly, winemakers in the region do not necessarily see this as a bad thing for them, understanding that it’s not the ideal situation globally.

  “We have observed during the decade a global warming, [that it] is totally beneficial for Beaujolais,” says Lathuiliere-Gravallon. “Now we make more balanced wines, with a little less acidity. Unfortunately, this warming has reduced the yield due to frost and hail, not to mention drought conditions.”

  Marx points out that when he came to Beaujolais 35 years ago, harvest started mid-to-late September. The past vintage harvest started in mid-August. While he concedes the extra warmth ultimately leads to wines with more structure, there are some new challenges to deal with. “We need to work harder during vinification to maintain the balance between freshness and body, fruit and structure,” he notes.

  While Beaujolais producers can’t directly alter the effects of climate change, they can work together to ensure the byproducts of their profession contribute as little environmental impact as possible. In fact, winemakers in the region have taken an active role in developing and encouraging sustainable practices on their own, initially with no government encouragement or support. Today, they are leaders in promoting positive environmental, economic and social aspects relating to their industry.

  Marx made some good points a few paragraphs back about the “serious” nature of wine. At the risk of going off on a personal opinion tangent (but since I’m the writer, why not?), when you consider the rather “serious” state of the world these days, maybe what we could all use is a large glass (or three) of a wine that has been fermented for one reason only: to bring pleasure. It’s not meant to be analyzed, collected, cellared or (shudder) scored. A few good, fruity gulps of Beaujolais Nouveau (slightly chilled) might be just what the doctor ordered. Of course, this year le Beaujolais Nouveau n’est pas arrivé! – at least here in Ontario (due to supply chain, inflation, Putin or COVID – pick one…or all). But thankfully, there are plenty of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages and crus de Beaujolais to keep the party rolling.

Exploring the Latest Research Into Regenerative Agriculture

sheep grazing in a grape vineyard

By: Becky Garrison

In What Your Food Ate: How to Heal Our Land and Reclaim Our Health (W.W. Norton & Company), authors David R. Montgomery and Anne Biklé expound on their research into regenerative farming practices that can put carbon back into the ground and improve soil health. This research builds on Montgomery’s introduction to carbon farming that he presented at the 2020 Oregon Wine Symposium. (See the June/July 2020 issue of The Grapevine Magazine).

  Biklé and Montgomery set out to examine the regenerative practices on farms that grow food crops by assessing 10 farms from California to Connecticut that engaged in these practices. When they analyzed how the topsoil from these farms compared to their neighboring farms, they found three broad principles that are central to supporting soil life. The first was the need to minimize the disturbance of the soil. This can translate into no-till or minimal tillage. The second principle is to avoid having bare soil by keeping the ground covered with living plants. Third, grow a diversity of living plant matter.

  Also, they suggested a fourth optional principle: reintegrating animal husbandry. While animals are not necessary for building healthy soils, their presence can serve as an accelerant in speeding up the process.

  In Biklé’s estimation, all of these principles are tailorable. He said, “They’re customizable to a given grower’s setting because what’s going to work in in the Pacific Northwest is going to be different than what’s going on in, say, California or upstate New York.” Hence, it’s key to find a mix of species for a particular cover crop that works on a regional basis. For example, a farm in California that’s subject to ongoing heat and drought would benefit from cover crop species that are particularly resistant to heat waves and do not require much water. Also, a cover crop mix can attract beneficial insects specific to a region that are pest predators or provide other benefits.

  Biklé adds, “If you think of the soil as having a diet it will be different depending on each vineyard’s unique conditions. In other words, the basic principles and practices of maintaining soil health need to be tailored to the soil. Growers can leverage soil health into vine health and a generally more resilient crop, along with minimizing pests and pathogens.”

How to Assess Soil Health

  They recommended assessing the health of one’s soil using the Haney soil test, which was named for USDA scientist Rick Haney. This test includes more than a dozen different soil test values, including standard macro- and micro-nutrients for plant consumption. Compared to other soil tests, the Haney test also estimates nutrients for microbial consumption with a focus on how much nitrogen and carbon are present in the soil.

  This analysis enables growers to ascertain not just the nutrients contained within this soil sample but also how the microbes are making these nutrients available to the soil. If these numbers are low, that’s a strong indication of the need to increase the organic levels through practices like cover crops, leaving residue on the ground or planting high exudate producers (a term that refers to carbon-rich materials).

Results of Applying Regenerative Farming Practices

  They found that, on average, in less than a decade, the topsoil on the regenerative farms in their study had about twice the soil organic matter and a three times higher soil health score than their neighboring farms. Also, when they compared the minerals, vitamins and phytochemical density in the crops they grew, they found that regenerative farms have roughly a 20 percent higher level of phytochemicals, such as carotenoids, phytosterols and polyphenols. Furthermore, they could not find an instance where the regenerative farm performed worse than the conventional farms in the same region. 

  In particular, they noted how regenerative farmers constantly observe what’s transpiring in the field.

Putting These Principles Into Practice

  At this point, they don’t have data demonstrating specifically how these practices work in vineyards. However, their research into how these practices impact food crops points to some positive practices that Biklé and Montgomery hypothesize can be applied to the vineyard. For example, it’s highly suggestive that cover crops planted between the vines will influence both the microbial communities that the plants interact with and the levels of phytochemicals and potential minerals the vines can pull out of the soil and incorporate into their fruit. The end goal is to create an environment where the vine can succeed by relying on its inherent biology.

  Here, Biklé stresses the need to find that sweet spot where there’s just enough stress from physical factors like drought and freeze and biological factors, such as nibbling pests. These stresses cause the plant to churn out phytochemicals. “We know these phytochemicals relate to the flavor and quality of wines, as well as nutritional and health benefits found in wine and other kinds of crops.”

  Too often, Biklé and Montgomery find farmers consider no or minimal till an adequate response to carbon farming practices and do not pursue the other principles for maintaining quality soil. As grapevines aren’t plowed over every year, there’s already some minimal disturbance at play. But growers also need to manage the rows between their vines by planting diverse cover crops. While some growers feel cover crops will compete with their vines, As Montgomery reflects, “If you raise cover crops and then knock them down so they become mulch, these cover crops help keep moisture in the soil more than they respire themselves.” 

  When planting new vines, Biklé recommends doing so with an eye to things like cover crops and animals if a grower is considering those practices. For example, she says to think about the height at which to train the lowest branches to allow enough clearance for cover crops and room for animals like sheep to graze.

  On the topic of inputs, Biklé says, “Occasional use of synthetic chemicals like fertilizers or pesticides probably isn’t a big deal in most cases. But their routine use can affect soil health through interfering with the communication and signaling between a vine host and its root microbiome. As a consequence, root microbiota significantly curtail their normal activities, like stimulating vine phytochemical production and delivering water and must-have nutrients to vines.” 

Challenges in Adopting Regenerative Farming Practices

  In their experience, the biggest difficulty with growers making this switch is their mindset. “If something is working well enough, there’s a reluctance to change,” Biklé opines. Once one can get over this reluctance and adopt an experiential mindset, one can begin to move into the world of carbon farming.

  Other concerns include the need to purchase new equipment. In addition, a given practice might be more labor intensive, which can be a challenge, especially if a region is facing a labor shortage. Also, some may not wish to have sheep in their vineyard based on the assumption these animals would disturb their guests or workers.

  According to Montgomery, a key concern is the need to develop a regional understanding of what would work for vineyards in a given region. He recommends establishing a consortium of local growers who could collectively experiment with what would make for good cover crops between the vines. These growers could set aside a block where they can tinker in their quest to assess the best practices that work in their particular vineyard. In particular, look for any connection between the polyphenol levels of the wine and what’s present in the soil.

  Historically, terroir has been viewed from a winemaking perspective as reflective of the climate, soil and environment. Montgomery and Biklé hope their ongoing research into regenerative farming practices will expand this definition to include an understanding of the soil’s microbial components and how these microbes’ impact both soil health and the quality of the fruit harvested from the vine.