Category: Archived Articles

Lower the pH of Wines by Easy Lab Acid Trials

Cyndi
man sitting at table holding half filled wine glass and a gloved hand giving the thumbs up

By: Thomas J. Payette, Winemaking Consultant

Often a winemaker is challenged with grapes, juice and wine that may have an imbalance in regard to the pH of a certain wine and that wines style.  This can be a critical choice for the winemaker in terms of protecting the wine from spoilage.  A wine with a higher pH is much more likely to develop spoilage bacteria/yeast problems.  On the converse just simply adding acid to lower the pH may throw the delicate taste and balance of the wine off.  Much finesse must be used at this time by the winemaker to make the proper decisions using both the wine lab and the wineglass.

Trials in the lab

  The lab is the first place the winemaker should turn to experiment with small batches of wine.  This will give nearly concrete evidence from the lab as well as tasting trials to determine the appropriate amount and kind of acid to add.

When?

  The pH of a wine should be addressed as early on in the winemaking process as possible, especially if too high.  Often this decision is predicted just before harvest from previously collected data (from field and grape samples) and made at harvest after chemistry confirmation on the crush pad.  I’ll often start to make adjustments in the press pan of whites or in the must of crushed reds.

Why and Where?

  The reason we do trials is to experiment with refinement and correction of a juice or wine.  Always work in small quantities, in the lab, with a wine so one does not potentially create a larger problem, in the cellar.  Trials can be tested and tasted to see what the results would be or will have been if the addition was made to the actual tank or vessel of juice/wine.  This eliminates guesswork and unnecessarily “shooting from the hip” of which many winemakers can find themselves guilty of during critical times such as harvest.

Tools Needed

Scales that measure in grams preferably to a tenth of a gram.

4             3 – 100 milliliter graduated cylinder (plastic preferred)

4             1 – 50 milliliter graduated cylinder (plastic preferred)

4             1 – 10 milliliter pipette (Class A volumetric)

4             2 – 5 milliliter serological pipettes-one tenth mil markings (Plastic preferred)

4             Small glass beakers 250 milliliters plus or minus

4             Representative sample(s) of each wine to be worked with (800 milliliters)

4             Clean wineglasses

4             Watch glasses to cover each glass

4             Spit cup

4             Other testing equipment to answer questions at hand : pH meter, TA measuring, etc

4             Magnetic Stir plate with stir bars and retriever for the stir bars.

4             Sharpie™ pen or pencil for marking beakers.

4  95% ethanol to remove Sharpie™ pen marks off glassware.

How?

  Start with something simple where results can be easily determined with the wineglass to give the confidence needed to build upon the procedure.  An example of this may be a tartaric addition trial for pH lowering and/or palate modification.  Let’s go over this process.

1.           Start with an ample quantity of wine to work with in the lab – perhaps an 800-milliliter representative sample from a wine tank or vessel.

2.           Accurately weigh 1.0 gram of tartaric acid and fully dissolve the acid in approximately 85 milliliters of the base wine with which you are working. Use the stir bar and plate for this process.

3.           Once fully dissolved, place the full amount into a 100 milliliter graduated cylinder or as one becomes more experienced you may just make the solution in the 100 milliliter graduated cylinder directly.

4.           Bring the amount of volume in the 100 milliliter graduated cylinder to the 100 milliliter mark with additional base wine.  (One should be clear they have made a solution of 1.0-gram tartaric acid dissolved into 100 milliliters of wine.)

5.           In a clean graduated cylinder, pipette 10 milliliters of the newly prepared acid stock solution into the cylinder.  Bring to the complete 100 milliliters volume mark with the base wine.  This represents a 1.0-gram per liter tartaric acid addition.

6.           Pipette twenty milliliters from the stock acid solution made in step four into another graduated cylinder and bring to volume to the 100-milliliter mark.  This represents the next addition level of 2.0 grams per liter tartaric addition.

7.           Continue to add to the number of samples you care to do the trial on in standard logical increments.

8.           Analysis the pH and titratable acidity, record and have available for the tasting below.

Set up the tasting trial

1.           Pour about 70 milliliters or a quantity one desires to smell and taste, of the base wine, into a control glass and place it to the left hand area of the tasting glass orientation.  (One should always taste against a control from left to right)

2.           Pour the trials to be tasted, made in steps 5,6 and 7 above, in increasing increments in each wineglass progressing from left to right.  Mark their contents.

3.           Add to this flight any wines from past vintages you may want to review or any other blind samples from other producers you may care to use as a benchmark.  Only do this step if needed.  Mark their contents.

4.           Taste and smell each wine several times.  Go through the flight and detect what wine/juice may best match or improve the desired style one is trying to achieve.  Review the chemistry data generated in step 8 above while tasting the trials.

5.           Select the best match and leave the room for 1 to 2 hours so your palate may re-calibrate.

6             .Return and re-taste to confirm your previous decision with a fresh palate.

7.           Repeat as often and needed.

  Should chemistries play an important role to reviewing certain additions be certain to run a necessary panel of lab test to ascertain the proper numbers are also achieved.  One may need to balance taste, flavor and chemistry to make some tough choices.  Have all the data necessary and available to make those choices.  

Calculation:

  Once the fear of the metric system is overcome and confidence is achieved, the calculations become very simplistic.  Let’s take the above as the example.  If we dissolve 1.0 gram of tartaric acid into 100 milliliters of wine we now have 0.1 gram of tartaric acid in every 10 milliliters of wine.  From this base if we blend 10.0 milliliters (one-tenth gram of tartaric) into 100 milliliters of the same fresh base wine – this represents the equivalent of one gram per liter.  If we were to have used twenty milliliters that would represent two grams per liter in the small 100-milliliter blend.  If we keep track of what we are tasting or testing and select the trial we prefer, one can mathematically calculate how much of the given addition is needed in a tank of a known quantity of juice or wine.  One can also extrapolate this out to larger volumes in the laboratory should it be desired to work beyond a 100-milliliter sample.

Spicing it up!

  Once the first set of trials is mastered one may build on to the next step projecting out what one may want to do with the juice or wine.  This could eventually, and perhaps should, build out to treating large enough samples that one could cold and protein stabilize the wine in the lab, filter to the projected desired micron size and taste with a panel.

  If tartaric acid is not giving the desired result – select other approved acids for that wine.  Fruit wines, other than grape, often have other principal acids so one may need to explore using that principal acid first.

Double Checking the Results

  From experience, one can get so creative in a lab it can be difficult to trace exactly how one arrived at a certain desired concoction.  Copious notes should be taken throughout the complete process in the lab.  Given a tank of juice or wine can often equate to hundreds of thousands of dollars or more it may be prudent to run the selected trial a second time, and compare, to confirm any additions before performing the action in the cellar.  Be confident of what you are about to do.

Action in the Cellar

  This is often the simple part.  Using tartaric acid as an example for the addition one will simply calculate the amount of acid needed to match the desired trial.  Weigh the desired amount of tartaric and dissolve in a bucket of warm water or wine from the tank.  Once dissolved add slowly to the tank while mixing.  Continue to mix until fully integrated and then select a sample from the sample valve for tasting, a quick pH and titratable acidity analysis.   This will confirm the task or end result was achieved.

Summary

  Given time and experimentation with this system many pH-lowering trials with additions will become easy and systematic.  Trials will often take less than ten minutes to prepare and one may taste at several points during the day or use extra time to perform lab test to confirm desired objectives.

Other Helpful Tips

  Keep in mind not to over scrutinize your accuracy in the laboratory.  By this I mean make sure that if we measure something very exactly in the laboratory make sure this action will be able to be duplicated outside the lab.  It is not uncommon, early on, for winemakers to get extremely exact in the lab only to step into the cellar with sloppy control over what they had just experimented with.

  This system can be used for dosage formulation for sparking wines.

  If accurate scales may be an issue the winemaker may always start by weighing larger quantities and dissolving into solution then breaking down that solution.  Example:  If a winemaker wants a 1.0 gram per liter solution and the scales are not accurate enough to weight one gram the winemaker may dissolve 10.0 grams into 100 milliliters and then measure out 10 milliliters of that solution and this should roughly equate to one gram.

NOTE: Make sure all solids are dissolved and dispersed equally into any solution.

  One may also be able to blend two trials in 50% to 50% solutions to get an example of a trial in the middle without having to make one up specifically to match the amount desired.

  Always remember your palate may become desensitized while tasting and to step away from tasting for an hour or two and then return to

taste ones preference.  You may be shocked you had become used to (Desensitized) certain levels because of tasting such extremes.

Next issue:  Raising the pH

References:  

Amerine, M.A., Berg, H.W., Cruess,W.V. 1972. The Technology of Wine Making

Dharmadhikari, M.R., Wilker, K.L. 2001. Micro Vinification.

Zoecklein, B.W., Fugelsang, K.C., Gump, B.H., and Nury, F.S. 1999. Wine Analysis and Production

Verbal discussion with Mr. Jacques Boissenot, Mr. Jacques Recht, Mr. Joachim Hollerith and Chris Johnson.

Protecting Your Crop From Going to Hail

Cyndi
photo showing hail damage to the grapes on a vine

By: Danny Hillin and Justin Scheiner, Ph.D.  – Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

If you ask any winegrower on the Texas High Plains about their greatest fear, you’ll likely get a consistent answer: hailstorms! Throughout a large portion of the state, these sudden and often destructive weather events are a major concern throughout the growing season. The damage from hail can vary from small dings on leaves and shoots to complete canopy defoliation and a devastating loss of the entire year’s crop. Early-season hailstorms can sometimes be less disastrous if the vines are able to recover by pushing new growth from secondary buds, but much of this depends on the vine’s health and nutrient status, the timing and intensity of the hail event, and the overall severity of damage.

  If a hailstorm strikes between budbreak and bloom, depending on the amount of damage, winegrape growers may be able to clean up the canopy and prune the vines carefully to regrow a new canopy for that season, and to ensure healthy growth for the next season. In many cases, severe hail damage to young shoots results in regrowth from secondary buds. While little information is available on the relative fruitfulness of secondary buds of different V. vinifera varieties, certain varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah appear to produce more fruitful secondary shoots than others such as Riesling or Chardonnay. However, fruit on secondary shoots typically lags behind the primary crop introducing undesirable variability in fruit quality. This may necessitate thinning the remaining primary crop or the secondary crop, depending on the damage and overall goal. Or, it may delay harvest until the secondary crop reaches an acceptable level of ripeness and quality. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove all fruit to allow vines to fully recover. 

  Later in the growing season, but before veraison, berries that are damaged by hail may either scar over and continue to grow or drop off before rot develops. At this stage, many premium winegrape growers choose to thin out severely damaged fruit to keep the remaining grapes healthy and ripening evenly. Damaged berries may crack or split later on in the growing season as they continue to expand, increasing the potential for rot.

  Hail damage after veraison requires immediate and careful management to prevent fruit rot, and it may necessitate an earlier harvest. Depending on the severity of damage, additional protectant sprays are usually required to control rot, and it may be necessary to thin heavily damaged clusters in order to save the remaining fruit.

  Larger hailstones dropped during more violent storms may also damage vital vineyard infrastructure, such as drip irrigation components and exposed irrigation piping, making it critical for growers to thoroughly inspect their irrigation equipment after a hail event.

Hailstorms in Texas: A Closer Look

  Hailstorms are simply defined as thunderstorms that produce balls of ice (hailstones) which fall from the sky. These are formed when raindrops are carried upward into extremely cold areas of the atmosphere by powerful updrafts, where they freeze. As the frozen droplets collide with more water, the liquid freezes to their surface and they grow larger. Once they have reached a sufficient size and weight, they’re too heavy for the updrafts to support, and they come flying back toward the earth—sometimes at speeds of up to 72 mph, depending on their size (according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration).

  In the Texas High Plains, named for its relatively high elevation of around 3,200 feet, vineyards are particularly susceptible to hail. The higher altitude brings the freezing point closer to the ground, making it easier for hailstones to form even during smaller milder storms that are common throughout the spring and early summer. This geographic characteristic makes hail a frequent and unwelcome visitor to the vineyards in this region as well as in several states to the north.

Protecting the Vineyard: The Role of Hail Netting

  Perhaps the most effective way to protect vineyards from hail damage is by installing hail netting. This high-density polyethylene fabric is woven to create a mesh barrier designed to stop hailstones from damaging grapevines. The mesh is flexible enough to absorb the impact of hailstones, while strong enough to protect both the grape clusters and the vine canopy.

  Typically, hail netting is secured above or near the top of the vine canopy and draped down to shield the fruiting zone, or even the entire canopy, on single canopy training systems. After the final pruning in winter, growers position the netting around the new shoots to safeguard them from early-season hailstorms.

  The initial investment in hail netting can be substantial, but it usually lasts between 5 to 10 years, making it a valuable long-term investment for some producers. For example, a 43-inch-wide hail net with a specific mesh size costs around $0.21 per linear foot, translating to about $1,830 per acre in a vineyard with 10-foot row spacing.

  Most growers in Texas report that hail netting does not interfere substantially with their day-to-day vineyard operations. In fact, many routine management practices can continue as normal with the netting in place. However, at harvest it is necessary to roll up and secure netting above the fruiting zone to allow access for the machinery or harvest crews. Once harvest is complete, the netting may stay in place until after final dormant pruning or be lowered to facilitate mechanized pruning operations. In the Texas High Plains, hail netting is typically installed and moved manually, although some vineyards have adopted mechanized systems to make the process easier.

  For growers that can’t justify the cost of hail netting, another common mitigation strategy is to adjust vineyard management practices to reduce loss or maintain yields. Leaving “extra” buds on the vines during pruning or boosting canopy growth with additional fertilization are common approaches. If hail strikes, it may naturally thin out some of the canopy and fruit, but if it doesn’t, growers can manage the excess growth later in the season when the threat of hail is less. The challenge of course is that higher canopy densities can affect disease pressure and control, fruit quality, and fruitfulness of lower buds if the canopy becomes overly dense. 

Hail Netting’s Effect on Vine Canopy Climate

  While hail netting can offer serious benefits to grape growers, it can also come with significant drawbacks that may make it unsuitable. In addition to material and installation costs, hail netting applied on the sides of vertically shoot positioned vines compresses the canopy. This in turn reduces light and spray penetration and airflow within the canopy. In areas with high fungal disease pressure, this may be a sufficient reason to avoid the use of hail nets.

   A 3-year study conducted in a Malbec and Pinot Gris vineyard in the Texas High Plains, reported a decrease in light infiltration into the canopy by approximately 25%, as well as an increase and humidity and decrease in canopy temperature which were attributed to reduced airflow. The authors also reported a slight reduction in soluble solids at harvest which is consistent with other research that compared netted grapevines with a compressed canopy to vines that were unnetted. This of course is a simplification as a whole host of factors can impact canopy density and microclimate such as the tautness of the nets, shoot density, leaf size, and cluster density and size. Hail netting is certainly not for everyone, but in the ever-unpredictable world of grape growing, where weather can make or break a season, it may offer a crucial layer of protection allowing premium winegrape producers to focus more on producing a profitable harvest and less on the whims of Mother Nature.

References

Cintineo, J.L, T. M. Smith, V. Lakshmanan, H.E. Brooks, and K. L. Ortega. 2012. An Objective High-Resolution Hail Climatology of the Contiguous United States. Am. Meterol. Soc. 27:1235-1248. https://doi.org/10.1175/WAF-D-11-00151.1

Hillin, D., J. Scheiner, T. Montague, and T. Ruland. 2022. Hail Netting for Vineyards. Texas A&M AgriLIfe Extension Service. HORT-PU-273.

Ruhland, T.K., T. Montague, and P. Helwi. 2023. Impact of Hail-Netting on Vitis Vinifera L. Canopy Microclimate, Leaf Gas Exchange, Fruit Quality, and Yield in a Semi-arid Environment. Viticulture Data Journal. https://doi.org/10.3897/vdj.4.e108805

How to Market Your Wine For Today’s World

Cyndi
a man holding a wine bottle talking to a woman and standing in front of many shelves filled with different wine bottles

By: Shawn Zylberberg

One of the greatest living winemakers in the world, Michel Rolland, recently said that it has never been easier to make great wine, but it has never been harder to sell it. The entire wine industry, regardless of fine wine or bulk producers, can find common ground to agree with Rolland’s words. With wine consumption declining from historic highs to an extremely competitive market to volatile economic conditions, it is crucial for wineries to know how to market their product strategically by leveraging their unique story and identifying the magnets that will pull consumers and trade alike to place that bottle in the cart or list. The following are five key areas that are used to successfully market wines today.

Media Relations:  The wine industry feels quite small at times, which highlights the importance of relationships in the community, whether it’s with wine critics, distributor partners, sommeliers and wine directors or high net worth consumers. At Colangelo & Partners, media relations is the most important factor when marketing a wine brand and driving sales successfully, from price points of $800 bottles to $15 bottles. 

  Wineries can start by identifying the right media contacts—those who specialize in wine, food, and lifestyle reporting—and critics that cover the respective region. Compiling a media list of these contacts serves as a guide for getting a winery in front of consumers, and reading their content is important to understand their style, audience and whether your brand is a good fit for the target publication. It is not recommended to reach out to the media list until your company messaging is ironclad as it will be easier to identify the best selling points in a tailored pitch.

  Pitching and sampling remains the best way to connect with today’s best wine writers and engage them to write an in-depth story about your wines. A personalized approach that showcases deep understanding of the subject you produce and they cover is essential. A wrongly sent pitch can have serious consequences and come off as offensive to the writer. Remember, they receive hundreds of pitches a week so concise, targeted words are recommended.

  When crafting a pitch, the best ways to engage writers includes an ‘exclusive.’ People want what they can’t have, and exclusives are a great way to form a bond with a writer and give them the keys to a story such as leadership changes, a new wine launch, winery or partnership. The bigger the better! This will result in the peak of media relations, which is when writers come to you without you typing a letter.

Wine Events:  For making the strongest, most memorable impact on consumers and trade, a wine event is the best choice. Countless times, wine collectors have stuck to wine brands due to one in person experience that created a bond between them and a winery that’s everlasting. Wine dinners are very typical, and can be replicated from market to market to showcase portfolios for consumers paired with a great menu. But for an effective event that will attract media and trade, find a strong angle that writers will be intrigued to cover such as an anniversary, a vertical of one SKU that dates to the inaugural vintage, a new wine launch or an event with an important figure of the company. Filling seats is the hardest part, so making the event an attractive offer will help. After the event, following up with media and trade will be important to continue to build on the angle to produce results. As for consumers, leveraging purchase order forms at the tasting will increase sales. Do not expect consumers to buy the wines after the tasting as they will forget and put it off. Buying wine at events is about the moment.

Critic Relations:  Building and maintaining relationships with wine critics is a must for successful wine marketing. Critics significantly influence consumer perceptions with the 100-point scale that affect purchasing decisions, making it essential to engage with them effectively. As mentioned earlier the first step is to identify which critics cover your region. Start with large publications such as Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Jeb Dunnuck, The Wine Advocate, Vinous, James Suckling, and Decanter. All of these magazines have a submissions protocol, some of which require fees such as Wine Enthusiast’s new tastings protocol.

  Engaging critics beyond just sending samples is crucial. Invite them to your winery, attend annual events such as Wine Spectator’s New York Wine Experience or Vinous Icons or James Suckling’s Greatest Wines of the World series, or even participate in exclusive seminars at these events (although they will require large product donations). Supporting publications and building a rapport can lead to more favorable reviews and increased exposure. Additionally, consider offering exclusive previews of new releases or limited-edition wines to create buzz and anticipation among critics and consumers.

  Great scores should be showcased in promotional materials, websites, and through social media channels to build credibility and attract new customers. It’s not enough to just send samples and collect scores. Although we are increasingly in a digital world, having winemakers visit critics in person in New York, Napa or elsewhere is important to build the bond. Better yet, invite critics to visit your winery and meet with the team to get a better sense of your story and how the level of quality is achieved in the glass. When annual tasting reports come around, critics will include in-depth information about the wines since they’ll likely remember a visit rather than a flight of 20 wines in a cold room alone.

Trade Tastings:  If on-premise is a big part of your selling strategy, trade tastings are essential for building relationships within the wine industry. These events allow producers to connect with distributors, retailers, and sommeliers, creating opportunities for new business partnerships. Day time events during the week are best for trade as they are often working in the afternoon to late at night. Whether it’s a small eight person sommelier lunch or a large 40 person seminar with rows of tables, the tastings should include a presentation, winery spokesperson and even a co-host with high credentials such as Master of Wine or Master Sommelier to serve as a highly technical and knowledgeable guide for the attendees.

  There is currently a high turnover rate for hospitality staff and many sommeliers have much to learn in their fast-paced roles. Building a presentation with concise, memorable educational points will serve as a strong guide for trade to drive sales. One could also utilize trade influencers with large followings on social media to raise awareness within the community. Many sommeliers and retailers in big cities are now throwing ‘pop-up’ dinners that bring lots of millennial and Gen Z consumers to the table. This could be a more strategic, less expensive approach than a large seminar.

  The most successful wineries have perfected the art of personalization. Remember to follow up with attendees and have distributor partners continue to connect to make more placements based on the presentation.

Get Help:  Lastly, media relations and communications programs are very labor intensive. Hiring a public relations agency with highly talented teams that are educated in all facets of the market can make the marketing process much easier and more effective. Whether it is an annual contract or three-month project to help build messaging, agencies have the know-how and relationships to offer helpful advice and guide your brand to the next stage.

About the Author: Born and raised in South Florida, Shawn Zylberberg joined Colangelo & Partners in August 2022 and is based in Miami, Florida. His wine journey started in New York City as a sommelier, but his passion was born during his years working as a writer at Wine Spectator. Shawn holds the prestigious WSET Diploma and continually cultivates valuable industry connections and storytelling abilities to materialize goals and identities across fine wine brands and portfolio companies around the world. His role at Colangelo & Partners is Senior Account Executive.

With the Wind Vineyard & Winery

Cyndi

Celebrating Life’s Journey, One Glass at a Time

photo of the winery building at With the Wine Vineyard and Winery

By: Gerald Dlubala

After living in Colorado for nine years, Jeremiah and Lisa Klein decided to move back to their original home state of South Dakota in 2012 to buy some farmland and raise their family. They considered a picturesque farm that was no longer being used for production but offered Jeremiah a vision of what could be. Jeremiah’s experience and background in agriculture had him excited to start a 20-acre family farm growing corn and beans. That dream took a serious hit when soil testing showed the property that they were interested in purchasing had a nitrogen deficiency, registering at 3 percent or less. Growing beans and corn would still be possible, but as Jeremiah said, it would be a continuous uphill battle. The Kleins made the tough decision to alter their family farm plans.

  But in their own words, Jeremiah and Lisa tend to “follow the wind” and celebrate wherever life takes them. That way of thinking certainly denotes a natural level of adaptability, and their story may be the epitome of being adaptable and willing to change course from previously laid out life plans. The Kleins found themselves altering their plans for a traditional farm, starting a vineyard on their property instead. Aptly named With the Wind Vineyard and Winery, it is now South Dakota’s largest vineyard and winery.

When One Door Closes, Another Opens

  “As luck would have it, we read an article that discussed growing fruit in the region, specifically focusing on the optimal conditions for grapevine growing,” said Jeremiah. “We took interest when the conditions described as optimal for growing grapes in our region matched our terroir conditions and soil tests, including our topography, sandy loam soil and south-facing slopes.”

  The Kleins joked that they could get a few grapevines and make some wine for themselves as a hobby. After some changes, they started talking with other vineyards in the region and were encouraged when those owners agreed that they had the perfect soil conditions and layout to support grape growing. But they also had paved roads for visitors to easily reach their farm, just nine miles off the interstate. It was an ideal location & setup.

  “It turns out that we just needed to adjust our views of the farm when we got here,” said Jeremiah. “When you think about it, it makes perfect sense to adapt to the land that’s here rather than try to make the natural land characteristics adapt to our wants. It just seems like the basic laws of nature. At that moment, we moved ahead full steam, gaining the education and knowledge necessary to shift our resources into grape growing. We never looked back, concentrating on growing memorable wines that celebrated life and appealed to the Midwest palate.”

  “We put in the vineyard in 2012, opened our winery and modest tasting room in 2014 and have been growing ever since,” said Jeremiah.

  “We had a small tasting room to begin,” said Lisa. “We took time to learn the ropes, knowing that we were in a very rural area and the challenge would be to draw visitors here at the start. We learned about our clientele, the Midwest taste palates and what they’re interested in. In 2016, we had a substantial addition that, since 2020, houses all of our production. All our wines are stored onsite in custom, Italian-made stainless-steel tanks and Minnesota oak barrels. That move gave us space for our open barrel room, which is really two rooms that can be combined or divided off as needed. We do a lot of public and private events, from weddings to farmer’s markets. Hosting events is important to draw guests and visitors to our place. They can have a great experience and discover our wines that are grown, produced and packaged onsite.”

  Additionally, Lisa told The Grapevine Magazine that the wholesale market is a significant part of their business and just as big as their onsite market. Their location in Rosholt, South Dakota, is not a hot spot for tourism, so it does not get the boost from other tourist attractions. However, with changes in licensing and regulations that allow a farm winery to self-distribute, the winery has experienced its biggest growth through the wholesale market, gaining over 150 retailers within South Dakota.

What to Expect When Visiting South Dakota’s Largest Vineyard and Winery

  “Guests are welcome to sit indoors with a lot of natural light coming in or outdoors and relax and enjoy our beautiful vistas,” said Lisa. “Our wraparound porch is a very popular spot, as is our binzebo, a uniquely designed old grain silo from the property that has been converted to a gazebo with comfortable seating, bistro lighting and a fire table, offering a relaxing place to spend time out in a natural area with family or friends. We welcome our guests with a wine menu that can be experienced by the glass, the bottle or within a customized wine flight. We like to have fun with our wines and cater to everyone’s tastes and expectations. Our lineup features everything from fun wines, like our Berry Crush and Peachy Keen, to our Sacred Solitude, a barrel-aged dry red. Guests can choose between our premium sweet wines through dry or sparkling wines. And we also have a panini kitchen that provides perfectly paired food options, as well as a baker on staff that amazes with a sweet-of-the-week available with meal options.”

  Lisa says they’re always up for giving impromptu or prearranged tours when they can, but all guests are welcome to stroll around, experience and enjoy the vineyard property and all it offers.

   “The reality is that we know we are offering something different for our area, so we want to make sure you know that we value your time and that you are always welcome here,” said Lisa. “We want your visit to be memorable enough that you want to return and bring friends and family with you. If you’re interested in having your wedding or other special event here, we focus on what you want as our guest. What stands out to you while you’re here? What speaks to you? Where would you want your event to take place? Our property has many options and unique areas, and they’re all on the table for your special event.”

  Jeremiah said, “Additionally, it’s pretty cool that visitors drive right through our vineyard to get here. Our guests are serenaded by the vines and get to see firsthand the grapes responsible for the wine in their glass.”

  “Our winery and vineyard are more than just having a great glass of wine,” said Lisa. “We want our visitors to relax, enjoy our land and experience our property. We want them to live in the moment and celebrate life with us and our wines. Our goal is to have our guests recognize and experience the connection between our peaceful surroundings and nature’s flow.”

Expanding the Vineyard and Looking Toward the Future

  “We’ve expanded our vineyard,” said Jeremiah. “And we’ll also be adding an Airbnb for our guests that would like to extend their stay with us. But mostly, our future plans include continuing to meet our customers’ expectations and needs through the expansion of our vision and ideas. To help with that, we’ve brought our daughter and son-in-law on board. They’ve helped us tremendously by coming up with fresh ideas and viewpoints that only a new generation can add. Having different ideas and opinions only makes us stronger.”

  With the Wind wines are crafted to reflect the surrounding nature, balancing acidity with natural, fully ripened grape sugars. Each grape variety naturally supports the attributes of the wine you taste. Jeremiah said they’ve added more vines over the years, as recently as 2023, when they added 2.65 acres of Crimson Pearl and Frontenac grapes. They planted 2,050 new Itasca and La Crescent grapevines in 2021. Because of their location, the vineyards have a drip irrigation system to help deter the adverse effects of drought and extreme heat. The Kleins are noting significant growth in their vineyard and are expecting a great harvest this year for their 2021 vintage wines. They also grow Frontenac Gris and King of the North grapes onsite.

  “Additionally, we do all of our production and bottling onsite,” said Jeremiah. “It equates to about 5,000 cases. This year, we expect to do about 30 tons of grapes for harvest, and they’ll all be produced and packaged in-house, including our sparkling and still varieties. Our packaging machine has the capability to use corks or screw caps depending on what is best for the particular wine being bottled. Additionally, we’ll be able to use twist-off crowns for a new RTD (ready-to-drink) option that is in development and will hopefully be released in the near future.”

 So You Want to Own a Vineyard & Winery

  “First and foremost, never resist change,” said Jeremiah. “Change is always coming, so just go where the wind blows. If we resisted, we would’ve never ended up where we are today, and we certainly wouldn’t have a winery. But in general, I would advise anyone interested in starting a vineyard and winery to always test ideas on a smaller scale before going all in. We started modestly and frugally before scaling up on our successes. That method has served us well, but we know that things will again change, so we can’t just get set in our ways.”

  “Additionally, mechanization is your friend,” said Jeremiah. “I learned the hard way that the ratio of labor to product when wanting to prune and pick all of my fruit by hand is simply not a sustainable way to do things. I realize now that mechanization is the real key to growth. We researched, prioritized and decided that a harvester would be the most cost-effective to start. It was always a struggle to get enough people here to work the necessary hours in the elements at the right time for an optimal harvest. The harvester we bought was used and needed work, so a mechanic on staff helped with repairs and got it running. Now it’s as good as new and used regularly.”

  “And wouldn’t you know it? Jeremiah continued. “We are actually getting a better-quality harvest with fewer losses on the ground by being able to harvest quicker and in a shorter time. Now, I would say that 90 percent of our operations in the vineyard are mechanized. So, start small and mechanize as soon as you can. Don’t overplant at the beginning if you really don’t know what you’re doing. Then scale up from there.”

  With the Wind Vineyard & Winery is South Dakota’s largest winery and vineyard. In addition to their premium sweet, dry and sparkling wine options, they also offer beer and non-alcoholic beverages. A panini kitchen is onsite for sandwiches perfectly paired with your preferred wine. There are also a variety of cheeses and chocolates available. To learn more or reserve a spot for your special event, private party, family celebrations and more, contact With the Wind Winery and Vineyard:

With the Wind Winery

10722 Lake Road  • Rosholt, SD 57260

INFO@WITHTHEWINDWINERY.COM  

605-537-4780

Celebrating the 40th Anniversary of the Walla Walla Valley AVA

Cyndi
3 men celebrating in the middle of a vineyard row

By: Becky Garrison

Since the formation of the Walla Walla Valley AVA in 1984, this oasis, set amid a vast sagebrush desert that rolls across Southeast Washington and Northeast Oregon, has emerged as a destination hub for wine connoisseurs. At present, the Walla Walla Valley AVA includes 135 wineries producing 200 labels with approximately 120 vineyards operating 3,000 acres under vine that produce over 40 varieties of viniferas. This region includes one nested AVA, the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, established in 2015, with the application for the Mill Creek AVA in process with the TTB. 

  Even though rainfall only averages eight inches a year (in comparison, Western Washington receives 48 inches), the area is naturally irrigated by cold mountain rivers. The Columbia, Yakima, Snake, and Walla Walla formed by the Missoula Floods that covered the entire Columbia Basin of Washington, as well as much of Montana, Idaho and Oregon. This region’s agricultural bounty attracted French traders, followed by Oregon Trail pioneers, Victorian wheat barons and other settlers who planted orchards, wheat fields and rangeland.

  This valley benefits from long, warm growing seasons, which allow the grapes to ripen fully, balanced by cool evenings that preserve acidity. This creates wines with depth, structure and elegance. The diverse soils range from wind-blown loess to volcanic basalt, which serves to add distinct layers of complexity to the wines. Also, due to this state’s cold winter climate and sandy soils, phylloxera that damaged most of the vineyards in the world in the 19th century never destroyed Washington State’s vineyards. As such, 99 percent of this state’s vineyards are planted on their roots instead of on phylloxera-tolerant rootstock.

  Beyond the land itself, the Walla Walla Valley has a strong sense of community and collaboration among winemakers and grape growers, many of whom are pioneers in the region. This spirit of innovation and respect for tradition has allowed them to craft world-class wines while maintaining a deep connection to their roots.

Leonetti Cellar Marks the Birth of the Walla Walla Wine Industry  

  In the 1970s, Gary and Nancy Figgins built upon Gary’s grandparents’ legacy as farmers to launch the first commercial winery in Walla Walla. Upon moving to Walla Walla in 1902, Francesco Leonetti continued farming practices he learned from his homeland in Serra Pedace, Calabria, Italy. Four years later, he married Rosa after an “arranged” courtship and established the Leonetti farm.

  Pre-prohibition, Italian farmers like the Leonettis may have brought cuttings over from their homeland for use in making wine for their family and friends. But overall, Washington State was not deemed suitable for commercial winemaking due to its cold climate.

  Fast-forward to 1974, when Gary Figgins planted a few cuttings of cabernet sauvignon and riesling on his grandparents’ property. Leonetti Cellar produced its first vintage of cabernet sauvignon in 1978. The Leonetti portfolio has since grown to include merlot along with the Italian varietals sangiovese and aglianico.

  Initially, Gary worked as a machinist in the region’s burgeoning canning industry to avoid taking on any debt as the winery grew. By the 1980s, the cannery and two lumber mills shut down. This seemingly depressed rural town experienced a renaissance in the 1990s  when the globalization of agriculture led to Walla Walla evolving into a world-class tourist destination for wine connoisseurs.

  In 2002, Chris Figgins purchased a piece of property to produce single-varietal estate wines. As per their website, Figgins Estate Vineyard is a south-facing hillside sitting at 1,500 to 1,750 feet. Planted to cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, malbec and riesling, it is an incredibly special place that Figgins considers to be his masterpiece of varietal selection, trellising and intensive, sustainable viticulture. Also, he established Toil Oregon in the Willamette Valley, where he produces dense, fruity pinot noirs that appeal to those who appreciate his hearty cabernet sauvignon.

The Birth of the Walla Walla Valley AVA

  Gary Figgins and Rick Small made homemade wine together for several years when Small decided to start commercial winemaking along with his wife, Darcey Fugman-Small. Small had grown up in agriculture and started learning about wine while traveling in Europe. Both men were self-taught, learning through collaboration and trial and error. In 1981, Small established Woodward Canyon as the second winery and vineyard in the Walla Walla area. The early varietals planted at their Estate Vineyard were chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.

  The third Winery in Walla Walla emerged in 1983 after Baker Ferguson retired as president of Baker Boyer of Bank and fulfilled his lifelong dream of starting a winery. L’Ecole started as a small mom-and-pop winery, making unique varietal wines like merlot, which was not well known at the time, semillon, which was even less known and later adding chenin blanc to the equation. While Baker was the dreamer and strategist behind the winery, his wife, Jean, had a background in chemistry, which led her to become the first female winemaker in Washington State. She took numerous classes at UC Davis and worked with industry consultants to ensure the wines were aromatic, expressive, balanced and of high quality. Initially, she focused on semillon, merlot, and chenin blanc.

  In 1989, their daughter, Megan, and her husband, Marty Clubb, moved to Walla Walla. Marty assumed responsibilities as manager and winemaker of L’Ecole, and they added cabernet sauvignon and, eventually, chardonnay to their lineup. A key development was planting vineyards in Walla Walla, which led to their first Walla Walla wines in 1993 with Pepper Bridge Apogee and Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot. Also, they introduced a Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in 1997.

  Another Walla Walla pioneer, Norm McKibben, headed out to Walla Walla, where he quickly met Mike Hogue of Hogue Cellars (founded in 1982), planted Pepper Bridge (1991) and formed a working partnership with Hogue that lasted for many years. Small and Figgins were among those creating award-winning wines using fruit from Pepper Bridge Vineyard. Initially, they planted cabernet sauvignon, though according to winemaker Jean-François Pellet, who joined the winery in 1999, “We’ve been able to figure out what works in the valley and then really dial it in at the specific vineyard sites. We started with five to six varietals at Pepper Bridge Vineyard, and now we have merlot as the standout, with some cabernet sauvignon. We just planted sauvignon blanc, and we’ll see how it goes.”

  Smalls and Figgins were instrumental in drafting the proposal for the initial federal approval of the AVA. They worked with McKibben, along with several other early growers and winemakers, to define the boundaries of the appellation, write the proposal and submit it for federal approval. The Walla Walla Valley AVA was established in Washington State as the second AVA in the state in 1984, following the Yakima Valley AVA established the previous year.

The Growth of Walla Walla Wine

  The 2000s saw an explosion in growth, with Marty Clubb assuming the role of the first president of the Walla Walla Wine Alliance. The organization was founded in 2001 as a nonprofit membership marketing association that serves as the leading informational resource center for consumers, trade and media. Also, the Enology and Viticulture program at Walla Walla Community College introduced talented people into the industry and helped elevate the quality of wines.

  According to Liz Knapke, executive director of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance, this region is both blessed and cursed with doing many things well.

  “The style and number of wines grown and produced in the Walla Walla Valley is so diverse that it’s hard to convince people that it is true, the Walla Walla Valley has a quality wine for everyone!” she said. “Some regions are known for a varietal or two, but in the Walla Walla Valley, we’re so agriculturally abundant that over 40 varieties grow well here including lesser Northwest-produced varieties like carignan, aglianico, vermentino and cinsault.”

The Wines of the Rocks District of Milton Freewater AVA

  In recent years, the Walla Walla Valley has received acclaim for the production of Rhône varietals, especially syrah, and particularly for syrah’s.020 grown in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA established in 2015 by Steve Robertson and Dr. Kevin Pogue, a professor of geology at Whitman College in Walla Walla, Washington. This cross-border AVA (Oregon and Washington) has the distinction of being the only AVA in the U.S. whose boundaries (96 percent) have been fixed by a single soil series (Freewater Series) and a single landform (alluvial fan). As of 2024, 640 wine-grape acres have been planted, with more in development.

  In 2007, Mary and Steve Robertson founded SJR Vineyard, planting 10 acres using sustainable farming with the goal of creating a world-class, family-legacy wine estate with their daughter, Brooke. They chose their location in Oregon after tripping over the cobbles and gravels that Steve recognized could produce wines of distinction with a unique minerality informed by this extreme desert soil that elevates the wines in this region to world-class status. Also, the Walla Walla culture was starting to bring people to the area. As Steve reflected, “I knew that it would only take time and money for things to accelerate. But the investment required to establish a small family estate operation could absolutely be delivered on the Oregon side of Walla Walla Valley.”

  As evidence of this region’s global reach, 35 producers from France’s Rhône Valley and another 100 Rhône wine producers from around the world gathered in April for the first time in Walla Walla Valley. The Basalt Bash & Barrel Auction (July 25-26, 2025) will celebrate the 10th anniversary of the founding of the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA. This two-day (first-time) event (benefiting the Milton Freewater School District and mental health services) kicks things off with a parade down North Main Street, a Rocks District Winegrowers wine tasting, tours of Rocks District vineyards, a golf event and a (silent) barrel auction-tasting at Walla Walla Land Company in the Rocks District.

The Economic Impact of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Industry

  In January 2024, the most recent study released to estimate the economic impact of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Industry found that wine tourism accounted for $167 million in visitor spending, with $72 million spent on wine purchases. The industry generated $522 million in business sales and supported 2,865 jobs, contributing $146 million in labor income. Wineries and tasting rooms accounted for 625 direct jobs and $33 million in labor income. The industry also generated $21 million in state and local tax revenue. There were an estimated 573,000 visits to Walla Walla wineries and tasting rooms in 2023, with visitors averaging 2.1 visits per year, 3spending three days in the valley. and visiting six wineries per trip.

  The 2025 events promoting Walla Walla Valley Wine include Walla Walla Wine On Tour coming to Bellevue, Washington; Portland, Oregon; Boise, Idaho and Spokane, Washington. Additional events .include Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine (June 19 to 22), Spring Kickoff Weekend (April 4 to 6), Spring Release Weekend (May 2 to 4), Fall Release Weekend (November 1 to 3) and Holiday Barrel Weekend (December 6 to 8).

  For the latest news on the Walla Walla Valley AVA, log on to the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance at https://www.wallawallawine.com.

The Best Options for De-Leafers, Tillers, Sprayers, Mowers & Shredders

Cyndi
a de-leafer in the vineyard

By: Alyssa L. Ochs

Various tools and pieces of equipment are essential to smoothly operating a vineyard. Yet the versions of these products you choose could significantly impact your labor expenditures and a successful harvest.

  This article highlights several specific pieces of vineyard equipment: de-leafers, tillers, sprayers, mowers and shredders. With the input of industry experts, we offer recommendations about evaluating your options and choosing suitable machines for your grapes.

De-Leafers in the Vineyard

  De-leafers are machines that remove leaves around grape clusters in a vineyard. They aim to improve air circulation and allow grapes to get more sunlight for growth. Using a de-leafer helps reduce the likelihood of disease and enhances grape quality.

  Based in Macungie, Pennsylvania, BDi Machinery offers the Rinieri DRF, a double barrel leaf remover that fits the needs of modern vineyards. Paul J. Licata from BDi told The Grapevine Magazine how this machine removes leaves from the grape zone, increasing maturation and aeration and reducing the amount of chemicals sprayed.

  He also shared about the Olmi 430F Air Impulse leaf remover machine with one reversible head, four hydraulic movements, a cardan, and an electro-hydraulic joystick to operate the hydraulic movements. It has a high-speed system head, and the compressor unit on the back of the tractor has a three-point hitch linkage frame with the head at the front of the tractor. OLMI is the pioneer of pneumatic de-leafing and the latest technology available. 

  Lakeview Vineyard Equipment is based in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada, and provides a wide range of vineyard mechanization solutions for every scale of operation. Joe Pillitteri from Lakeview Vineyard Equipment shared with The Grapevine Magazine that his company offers leaf removal machines like the Collard Raptor Compressed Air Leaf Removers. The Clemens EasyFix Shootbinder is a tool used to tuck vines behind leaves, and the Collard Hedger and Collard Leaf Removers are also options.

Chino, California-based Gearmore provides quality implements through servicing tractor dealers and aims to offer the finest and most reliable equipment at affordable prices.

  Robert Giersbach from Gearmore told The Grapevine Magazine, “Many different implements are available for between rows vineyard maintenance, such as discs, flail shredders, cultivators, tillers and v-rippers. We supply all these implements, as growers may use one or more of these implements that best fits their requirements.”

  In general, when shopping for de-leafers, look for models that save manual labor time. Some models can save up to 30 percent of your time rather than de-leafing by hand. Also, look for de-leafers that are gentle to vines, such as air-based systems, so that you don’t damage grapes. 

Tillers in the Vineyard

  Tillers prepare the soil for planting by breaking it up and mixing the nutrients optimally. Tilling the soil promotes healthy root growth and good water absorption.

  Licata from BDi Machinery told The Grapevine Magazine, “We handle Ortolan Power Harrows and Stone and Sod Buriers, plus Tortella Spaders. Depending on needs, application and tractor specs, they are perfect for working the soil in vineyards, orchards, horticulture and nurseries.”

  Pillitteri Lakeview Vineyard Equipment said that his company sells a complete line of Clemens vineyard floor management tools to control weeds and prep soil for cover crops. These products include the Clemens Radius SL+ Undervine Weeder, Clemens Over the Row MultiClean and Clemens Finger Weeder/Roller.

  As you compare tillers, choose one that matches your soil type. For example, light models do well in sandy soil, while heavy-duty tillers are best for clay. It’s also wise to choose an adjustable tiller with depth settings that you can change to accommodate vineyard needs.

Sprayers in the Vineyard

  A sprayer is used in a vineyard to apply fungicides, fertilizers and pesticides. By spraying the vines, you protect them from diseases and pests while giving them essential nutrients.

  BDi Machinery represents the world leader in sprayers: CIMA low-volume Atomizer sprayers. These sprayers are designed for efficacy to help growers use less water and chemicals with targeted spray coverage. Licata from BDi said, “Cima sprayers have been designed and built inside the Cima factory in Italy since 1974. Cima sprayers are perfect for vineyard, orchard and nursery spraying. These sprayers allow for more acres per fill-up, uniform spray, more coverage and better control of air distribution. They also allow for less chemical run-off, fewer applications, fewer fill-ups and less maintenance.”

  You can purchase Gregoire single and multi-row sprayers from Lakeview Vineyard Equipment, including a recycling sprayer for one to four rows of coverage. Options include the Gregoire ECOProtect L2 Sprayer, Gregoire Progress Sprayer and Gregoire GL7 Harvester with Sprayer Attachment.

  A sprayer should provide even coverage to all parts of your vines. Look at models with adjustable nozzles for the best control. Also, look for sprayers with tanks that scale with your vineyard size to minimize the time needed for refilling.

Mowers and Shredders in the Vineyard

  Vineyard workers use mowers to cut the grass and trim the weeds between vineyard rows. Mowing helps maintain a clean and managed vineyard floor for better growth.

  Shredders are used in vineyards to shred organic debris, such as leftover prunings. The materials shredders collect can be used to retain moisture and enrich the soil.

  BDi Machinery offers shredders/mowers ideal for grass and wood in vineyards, parks, and large orchards.

  Acampo heavy-duty shredders/mowers are available from Lakeview Vineyard Equipment as well.

  “With each manufacturer we can configure options and sizes and machine capacities to fit any size operation,” said Lakeview’s Pillitteri. “We have incredible market share in each category and, as such, have access to high quality used equipment that is backed by warranty. For each product we have chosen a supplier that we feel is the most robust, versatile and best supported product in our space. Ultimately we are acutely aware that equipment is only as good as the dealer that backs it and in our case we feel Lakeview adds incredible value.” 

  Consider mowers that can easily navigate between your rows without damaging the vines. Wider cutting widths may reduce mowing time, but ensure it’s narrow enough to fit between rows.

  The best shredders are durable and can handle rugged vineyard equipment. Efficient models can also handle significant pruning and debris volumes. For easy management, look for ones that sweep debris into the path of your shredder or mower.

Current Trends in Vineyard Equipment

  Regarding trending innovations and technologies now available, Licata from BDi shared, “Customers are continuing to seek doing more with less. Whether it’s leaf removal or spraying, moving from single-row to multi-row machines continues to be a trend.”

  Pillitteri from Lakeview Vineyard Equipment said that in the last 10 years, he’s seen a remarkable shift away from herbicides and towards minimizing chemical use across the industry.

  “Even if our customer base is not completely organic or biodynamic, there’s a strong desire to put less chemical into the fields without sacrificing fruit quality or vine health,” he said. “In that regard we have experienced explosive growth with Clemens mechanical weed control tools and Gregoire decreased volume, EcoProtect recycling sprayers.”

Choosing the Right Machines for Your Vineyard

  With a better understanding of the options available for these types of machinery, you can make the best choices based on your vineyard’s size, climate, budget and other factors.

  BDi Machinery’s Paul J. Licata advises vineyards, “The two important areas are knowing your tractor’s technical specifications and the implement you are selecting technical information. Both need to work together and allow for correct operation.”

  Joe Pillitteri from Lakeview Vineyard Equipment’s advice was to always prioritize a budget based on the growth stage of the vineyard. 

  “A good sprayer is the foundation for plants to go from planting to fruit production, so invest in a sprayer that allows for excellent coverage in a reasonable spraying window. It’s best to buy ‘right’ first rather than making something work that is going to present reliability issues or simply be undersized for the vineyard your operation,” Pillitteri said. 

  He continued, “After that, floor management becomes a focus for grape radius, weed control equipment, cultivation equipment and mower/shredders. If and when the time is right, mechanical harvesting is a product line that seems to have gone from a luxury to a necessity based on labor availability and short harvesting windows.”

  “When purchasing any equipment I think it makes good sense to ask for at least five to 10 references for any product that a dealer has sold to a similar sized vineyard,” Pillitteri  said. “Even if you don’t intend to contact each and every reference, it supplies peace of mind that the product and the dealer will earn your investment.”

  Giersbach from Gearmore added, “Growers continue to reduce the number of passes in their vineyards. One of the popular ways is to spray two complete rows in lieu of two half rows, thus cutting spraying time half. Also, by using Venturi concentrated spray, less fill-ups are required.”

  Giersbach also shared that at Gearmore, the same implements are available in many different widths and capacities.

  “This is needed because of the many tractors horsepower’s and widths,” he said. “Thus, if you tell your supplier this information and your vineyard row width, it will be easier to recommend the implement model that best fits your vineyard.”

Add Efficiency and Cost Effectiveness to Your Vineyard Pruning Program

Cyndi
vineyards after pruning

By: Gerald Dlubala

Vineyard pruning is sometimes approached with a different passion than harvest, but it’s no less critical and can have a noticeable effect on the following year’s harvest.  Proper pruning encourages robust vine growth and enriches the health of the vine and fruiting grapes. A well-pruned and maintained vine directs all of its energy into producing high-quality fruit rather than sending resources into nonproductive areas of the vine.

  On the surface, pruning sounds simple, but it really is an art form that separates the healthy wood from any dead or damaged vines to help increase the production and quality of the fruit in the next harvest. Locate your previous year’s growth and eliminate the dead or diseased wood. Select the strongest and healthiest-looking vines and trim any excess, leaving a few well-spaced buds on those canes to encourage optimal shoot development and production.

  If done early, vineyard managers give themselves plenty of time to complete the pruning. Late pruning is known to help reduce the damaging effects of frost, but then the workers may have to deal with less-than-optimal weather to complete the pruning before bud break. Younger vines can be trained at this time, while older, mature vines are pruned to encourage ongoing productivity. Pruning is also the time to help form a well-ventilated canopy that features proper air circulation and optimal sun penetration.

  Pruning is also critical to disease detection and to determining which vines, if any, should be replaced. Additionally, any detected diseases can be spread from one vine to another through the tools used, so regularly sterilizing pruning tools with isopropyl alcohol or a bleach solution is a must.

  Many vineyards have turned to pre-pruning to reduce the time needed for pruning and the labor involved.

Pre-Pruning to Ease the Load: Provide Agro

  Sean Bartlett, business unit manager for Provide Agro, a Bartlett Company, told The Grapevine Magazine that pre-pruning is one way to ease the demands on vineyard managers during the pruning season.

  “Pre-pruning cordon and spur-trained vines can significantly help cut down on labor costs and time spent pruning,” said Bartlett. “We recommend doing this anytime throughout the dormant season before you do the final pruning. The best time for final pruning is usually as late as possible in the dormant season, but that’s not often practical with larger vineyards with more acreage and labor limitations. This is when a pre-pruning strategy really pays off.”

  Bartlett says that all long canes measuring six to 12 inches long are cut back during pre-pruning. By doing this now, there is less manual manipulation,  saving labor and time later during traditional pruning.

  “Leaving the longer cane length during pre-pruning has also been shown to help deter fungal disease,” said Bartlett. “Additionally, while pre-pruning, you can prioritize and choose your vines based on their expected susceptibility to winter injury. Sometimes, based on observations, you may want to leave more buds now and reassess at final pruning.”

  Provide Agro works with clients to provide custom solutions and proper equipment for their field equipment, packhouse and custom manufacturing needs. For vineyard management, Bartlett recommends Freilauber products. Freilauber has specialized in vineyard equipment for over 25 years, focusing on quality and new innovative processes for the future.

Combining Experience & Technology for Cost-Effective, Efficient Pruning: Cypress Agritech Partners With INFACO USA

  “Vineyard pruning isn’t a one-size-fits-all task,” said Joey Traut, vice president of Cypress Agritech, a provider of practical and sustainable solutions to the agriculture industry. “The optimal time for pruning depends on the growing region you’re in, the weather and the vineyard location’s microclimate. It also depends on if you’re growing table grapes or wine grapes.

  Sometimes, it’s just a result of getting through harvest and wanting to take some time off before undertaking another labor-intensive vineyard task. The normal pruning window lies between November and January. Table grape growers may begin in November after harvest; wine grape regions usually hold off until later in January. Vineyards further north, such as those in the Pacific Northwest, may prune in February or March to get past the coldest winter months and not have to prune when it’s cold and wet. The farther north you go, the later they start pruning. Regarding completion time, we know that most vineyards would like to complete their pruning within one to two months.”

  Cypress Agritech is the dealer and service provider for INFACO, a premium hand-held power tool manufacturer servicing the agricultural industry for over 35 years. INFACO is credited with developing the first electric pruning shear, and through continuous development, its F3020 Professional Battery Powered Pruning Shear is considered the gold standard in electric pruning shears.

  “We partnered with two vineyards through two pruning cycles to test the effectiveness of INFACO’s F3020 shears,” said Traut. “These tools aren’t cheap, so if you have to buy enough shears so that a block of up to 50 workers can all prune the vineyard at the same time, you want to make sure you’re getting a return on your investment.”

  “So, we looked at how to prove that return,” he said. “The idea is simple enough: you provide an electric shear that will prune faster with quicker cuts, saving time and money on labor hours. But how much? Is there a potential to reduce your pruning crew and have those available workers do other vineyard activities at the same time? If crews can prune in half the time, pruning crews can be reduced, making other workers available for additional vineyard tasks at the same time. We’re not looking to reduce jobs. We look to automate those we can to increase efficiency across the vineyard. That’s a win for everyone.”

  “For our trials, we had two vineyards that were each about 200 acres, with 900 vines per acre planted with the same spacing,” said Traut. “Rows were alternated being pruned either manually or by using INFACO’s F3020 shears. We continued the trial over two years,  using two pruning cycles to validate our findings and compare the labor data to the cost of shears needed. We know upfront that the manual pruning is going to naturally take longer, with more mental and hand fatigue from clenching down manually on bigger branches. The end of the two-year trials gave us the results of using electric shears in a real-time test under real-world conditions in two prominent and well-managed vineyards.”

  He shared, “We ended up with some great, specific data sets. Those data sets showed that, with all things being equal, the pruning was completed with INFACO’s electric shears in 1.64 months compared to 2.18 months for those using traditional manual pruning methods. We then compared the labor data to the cost of the shears, and we see that we’ve also cut costs while optimizing our labor.”

  Traut said they have created spreadsheets in cooperation with vineyard pruning experts and have come up with a formula that provides a vineyard manager or owner with an idea of the return on investment and how much they would save by using electric shears for their pruning tasks. Different spreadsheets are available for wine and table grapes because each features different intricacies, including different pruning methods.

Look for Equipment with Functionality, Durability, Safety & Non-Stop Battery Life

  Traut said that, as with any farm equipment, vineyard workers want to know about the safety and durability of any new equipment. Additionally, when it comes to battery-powered equipment, battery life is always one of the first questions that come to mind.

  “Those are all legitimate concerns,” said Traut. “In trials, battery life was a big question. After all, these shears are farm equipment and will be subjected to rough use while in the elements. Downtime due to battery failure or the need for a recharge is not acceptable. INFACO’s F3020 shears can easily go a couple of days without a recharge, but we recommend that vineyard workers do the simplest and most efficient thing and store them in their charging cradle after completing a day’s work. In all of our trials, vineyards have loved these shears. We’ve had the same success stories with orchard and blueberry farmers. The batteries won’t fail in the field unless they haven’t been charged in a few days.”

  Traut says that the F3020 is essentially a modular unit. It attaches to a cable that hooks into the battery pack located in the included backpack-type mechanism, or it can attach to a belt. The backpack keeps the cable out of the way and keeps the unit ergonomically valid, reducing stress on the hand and wrist and effectively reducing workman’s compensation claims.

  The blades of the shear are interchangeable. The shear comes with a medium head size, which is the most popular and widely used in vineyards. The larger maxi head size has a bigger cut radius, which is more popular in orchard use. When pruning smaller diameter branches, the diameter cut radius of the shear can be adjusted, optimizing cut speed. An interesting safety feature is that the shear’s bottom blade can pick up on the electromagnetic current that runs through a human’s skin. If the shear senses that current, it will not close or cut.

  “It’s an extreme safety feature that I demonstrate at shows with my own fingers,” said Traut. “We’ve had very positive reviews from those that have adopted INFACO’s shears for use in their vineyards, and that’s just one reason we’ve decided to work with them. There are a lot of electric shears on the market that are capable of doing a job for you, but when considering safety, quality, maintenance, service and overall function, INFACO was the one that gave us everything. For anyone looking to purchase electric shears, I would say that they should look at the product’s safety, durability and reliability in that order. Additionally, we provide an excellent annual maintenance program that essentially extends the original warranty to last a lifetime.”

Innovation and Improvements Continue

  Even though the F3020 is just two years old, INFACO is always looking for new ways and features to get better. They’ve increased their Bluetooth connectivity and enhanced their safety function, giving it more reliability by decreasing the lag that sometimes occurs in wet or heavy dew conditions. The improved Bluetooth connectivity will also allow their app to record every trigger pull to make a cut. All new orders starting for this season will have the enhancements already installed.

  These features will be added to existing shears at the next maintenance interval. Traut tells The Grapevine that INFACO has multiple tools for different crops, and they’ve also had great reviews on their AT 1000, an electric tying device that provides orchard and vineyard workers a quicker way to tie vines rather than hand tying.

  “We believe that INFACO has the best electric shears on the market,” said Traut. “We do our due diligence, learning from having locations along the Central Valley and Central Coast of California wine regions. We’ve done extensive trials with both table and wine grapes just because we know there are different intricacies within those varietals, including timing, pruning methods and training methods. But we don’t want to just blast out data. We travel up and down the state and are always happy to give demos and sit down with vineyard owners/managers who can input their own data points into our calculator to get an idea of the savings they can realize by going to electric shears.

  We have plenty of references to speak with as well. We believe in good relationships and want everyone to stay safe during harvest and pruning season.”

Common Trellis Systems and Choosing the Right One

Cyndi
Jensen Precast trellis system pictured in a vineyard

Photo Credit: Jensen Precast

By: Alyssa L. Ochs

In the modern vineyard, trellis systems consist of posts, wires or other structures used to support grapevines and help them grow. The concept of a trellis is relatively simple, but choosing the right one could mean the difference between a successful harvest and plants struggling to survive.

We connected with industry experts and vineyards with effective trellis strategies to share insights about the options available and how to choose the best one for your vineyard.

The Importance of Trellises

  Trellises provide structural support for the vines and fruit in a way sturdy enough to sustain significant wind. They also help vines get adequate sunlight for photosynthesis while ripening and developing sugars for high-quality fruit. An effective trellis system helps circulate the air around plants and reduce disease risk without excessive use of herbicides and pesticides.

  Meanwhile, trellises help reduce the labor needed for weeding because the vines are lifted off the ground, making weeding tasks easier. Spraying the vines with a trellis is easier because the structural support shapes the canopy. At harvest, a trellis makes it easier to pull grapes by hand, reducing labor needs and costs.

  Overall, a trellis is essential to effective vineyard design and can ensure a vineyard’s success or failure. By supporting the vine and fruit in a way plants cannot naturally do, trellises help vineyard owners produce healthy fruit and improve the quantity and quality of their grapes.

Types of Trellis Systems

  Vineyards can experiment with various trellis systems based on conditions and personal preferences. Vertical shoot positioning (VSP) involves a single-curtain system with movable catch wires and a stationary cordon wire. This system trains the vines to grow vertically and is ideal for narrow-row spacings. VSP systems often have four to six wire levels, making pruning and harvesting easier. However, installing them can be costly and require maintenance beyond other trellising methods.

  Another trellis option is the Geneva double curtain (GDC), which incorporates a double canopy system and canopies with bilateral cordons. This method ensures the vines get adequate light and canopies are divided horizontally for shoot positioning.

  Vineyards can also try the four-arm kniffin (FAK) method for trellising, which involves a four-arm, quadrilateral cane system with equal spacing on the wire. Fruit canes grow between the arms, making it ideal for small vineyards. A FAK with a three-wire trellis system is easy to build and cost-effective. It is also versatile and can adapt to various row spacings.

  Top wire cordon (TWC) trellis systems work for flat sites and have cross arms, posts and top wires strung from the post’s bottom to the arms’ ends. This design can accommodate row spacings from about three to 10 feet and is ideal for vines growing downward. However, they offer less overall support and can damage wind and sun.

  There’s also the umbrella kniffin (UK) method, which uses two wires at 45-degree angles to grow vines between them. Vineyards in warm climates with high winds often find success with this method. It’s simple and easy to install but takes up more space than other systems, and weed control can be an issue.

  High-wire cordon trellis systems work well with cold-hardy grapes and require minimal labor and investment. This system involves one to three wires, with the top wire four to six feet from the ground. Pruning is easy with this system, which allows for vineyard mechanization more than more complex trellis systems.

What Vineyards Are Using

  Four Daughters Vineyard in Spring Valley, Minnesota uses two different trellis systems in its vineyard, primarily a mid-wire cordon with VSP-trained vines and some lyre trellis. Four Daughters is a winery, cidery, restaurant and event center on a sprawling estate with a six-acre vineyard in rural southeastern Minnesota.

  “We are working to retrain the vines on the lyre system to VSP and convert the trellis as well,” Hannah Hanlon, Four Daughters’ winemaker and vineyard manager, told The Grapevine Magazine. Hanlon said that the mid-wire cordon with VSP works well for the vineyard and the vines.

  “Many vines are best suited to a high-cordon; however, working on high-cordon systems is really hard on the back, and those vines may not be as perfect as VSP, but they will produce and grow just fine,” Hanlon said. “Similarly, the lyre system we have is hard to hedge and hard to penetrate the center of the canopy with sprays; VSP would solve those issues. We feel fortunate that our site is on limestone and less vigorous than most in Minnesota, and we can grow a double cordon VSP vine without unmanageable vigor. Vines are incredibly versatile and resilient. Finding perfection is not my goal in the trellising and training in the vineyard; my goal is to keep the vines happy enough and keep them easy to be worked on.”

  Concerning trellis-related supplies, Hanlon from Four Daughters Vineyard shared, “I use grow tubes from MDT to grow up vines when I need to retrain trunks or replant; this protects them from herbicide and rabbits. With these, I use bamboo poles to hold them in place. I use rubber black ties to hold the vines onto the trellis system, a Maxtapener for the growing season tying and Felco pruners, saws and loppers for pruning. We net our vines and use clips to hold those nets in place to protect them from birds. I have an herbicide sprayer, fungicide sprayer and tractor. We have a tractor-mounted hedger. For repairing the trellises, I have a crimping tool, strainer handle, hammer and extra trellising supplies.”

  Hanlon recommends the Minnesota Grape Growers Association’s book Growing Grapes in Minnesota (available for free download) to compare the costs of different trellis systems.

  Meanwhile, in New Haven, Vermont, Lincoln Peak Vineyard has most of its vineyard trained on Geneva double curtain (GDC) but also has some high wire. Kevin Bednar and his wife, Nichole Bambacigno, own Lincoln Peak and took over management of the vineyard earlier this year.

  “In these systems, the fruiting wire is six feet off the ground, and we encourage the shoots to grow downwards as the season progresses,” Bednar told The Grapevine Magazine. “These systems typically are spur-pruned and lay down cordons for multiple years, but we opt for cane pruning, replacing the canes on the fruiting wire every year. This allows us to eliminate potentially diseased or cold damaged wood.”

  Bednar shared that the systems they use now at Lincoln Peak allow vigorous hybrids plenty of room to grow, balancing the vegetative and reproductive growth. He explained that these varieties struggle to grow upright, so their trellis system fits their tendencies more than VSP and allows the vine to support a heavier crop load.

  “The downward growth pattern of the shoots leads to great sun and wind exposure in the fruit zone, leading to better ripeness and good development of fruiting buds,” Bednar said. “I certainly think VSP and other upright trellis systems are nicer to look at, and, having had more experience working with VSP, it seems to me that you have more control over undervine growth and fruit zone exposure throughout the season.”

  Bednar from Lincoln Peak explained that a vineyard needs to purchase end posts and anchors, row posts, wire, crossbars and a post hole digger to construct a trellis.

  “All trellising systems have the same number of posts, so it really comes down to wire and crossbars,” Bednar said. “The more wires, the more expensive the system. High wire is typically just one wire, GDC is two and VSP can be up to seven.”

Recommended Vineyard Trellis Products 

  One company specializing in vineyard trellis systems is Jensen Precast, based in Reno, Nevada and one of America’s largest, independently-owned precast concrete businesses. George Kehagias, Jensen’s director of product management, told The Grapevine Magazine that their most popular products for vineyards are the Harvest Pillar brand 3”x3”x8’ concrete line posts, 4”x4”x8’ concrete end posts, wire clips and end post bracketry.

  “Our wire clips are popular because they’re very quick to install,” Kehagias said. “We also offer a variety of easy-to-mount cross arm bracketry, depending on the type of trellising in the vineyard.”

  Kehagias explained that the method for trellising determines what supplies are required, but concrete posts require similar components to wood and steel.

  “The vineyard will need clips to attach the wire to the post, which Harvest Pillar supplies, and then wire to attach the fruit to,” Kehagias said. “In general, vineyards use anchors to secure the fruiting wire to the ground. With Harvest Pillar, the anchors and wire used are interchangeable between wood, steel and concrete. The wire clips used on concrete are similar in function but slightly different in form from clips used on wood and steel. Our customers also typically attached irrigation drip lines to the trellis. With concrete, this method can be done using the same accessories as used on wood and steel trellis.”

  He shared that concrete posts are the most cost-effective solution when you factor in the replacement costs of damaged posts and optimized spacing for strengths. Jensen Precast has a calculator on its website that compares wood, steel and concrete costs per acre.

  Headquartered in Aurora, Illinois, Gripple, Inc. is the leading manufacturer of wire joiners and tensioners for the agricultural market. Its highest-selling products in the vineyard market are the GP Medium, GP1 and GPak kits.

  “While the GP Medium is our best-seller, it is available in a range of sizes starting with small to medium, then large, and we even carry a jumbo option,” Rick Hermosillo, campaign marketing manager for Gripple, told The Grapevine Magazine. “The GP Medium is most often used for joining 13.5-to-10-gauge smooth trellis wire together, repairing broken or cut wires and often used at termination points around the end post. The medium is popular for its ease of use and speed of installation without drawbacks. It has an 880-pound working load and is designed with corrosive-resistant materials to last the life of the trellis wire.”

  Hermosillo explained that GP1 is another termination end option. It is designed with a flat edge, creating extra stability when using metal end posts. While the GP1 has a high load strength equivalent to the GP Medium, there is also a GP2 option for larger wire with a stronger hold at 1,320 pounds.

  “Lastly, our GPak kit — again, this comes in a range of sizes, but the most common is our GPak 3,” Hermosillo said. “It’s a ready-to-use kit with a pre-cut fused cable and a joiner. The GPak is designed as a quick installation tieback to connect your end post to your ground anchor.”

  Gripple manufactures 95 percent of the components in all its products and has released three new products to the vineyard market in the past two years. The GP90 is a cross-wire joiner, the D8 works with a 5/16-inch cable that provides a load rating of 6,170 pounds and the Anchor 5 is the largest anchor of its series to fit the most demanding trellis systems.

  Finger Lakes Trellis Supply is another company that can help if you’re in the market for a new trellis system. Based in Williamson, New York, it offers trellises, fencing, posts, wires, harvest supplies, irrigation supplies, tools, equipment and wildlife solutions.

  For vine training, Finger Lakes Trellis Supply offers a lightweight and durable MAX Tapener, four-inch KlipOn Trellis Ties and 1/4-inch stake-to-wire clips. These products provide a stable foundation for growing vines and help you save time while setting up trellises. This company also sells metal and wooden posts and accessories, plus earth anchors in various styles.

Final Words of Advice

  Hanlon from Four Daughters Vineyard & Winery advised vineyards, “Think about standing at that vine and pruning it, training it, working on it, driving down the row and harvesting the grapes. What tools you plan to use to do all of that? Choose something that is amiable to your tools and body. Bending down or reaching up to do a task for one vine is manageable, but can you do it for 1,000?”

  Bednar from Lincoln Peak advised, “Do your research and be realistic with yourself! There’s no right answer, so figure out what your short-term and long-term goals are. What’s your labor budget and access? How much mechanization do you want to do? What are your goals for fruit yield, quality and vine longevity?”

  Kehagias from Jensen Precast said, “When choosing a trellis system, one of the most important factors to be considered is the ever-increasing costs of labor resources and finding a system that, in the long run, will need minimal labor to maintain and utilize the system. We think our Harvest Pillar concrete trellis systems are the best solution.”

  Hermosillo from Gripple shared, “There are many reasons for choosing a preferred method; however, Gripple leaves it to the grower to determine which is best for their site. Gripple can improve on some of the cons to these methods are in the joining repairing and tiebacks of any design selected. One of those key benefits, besides the speed and ease of use, is the ability to tension and re-tension that wire year after year. We offer a torque tool that was engineered to complement our Gripple joiners. With this tool, it takes less than 10 seconds to add tension to a trellis line. Since most vineyards are built on many acres of land, this system can provide a significant benefit in time and labor savings.”

Managing pH in Wine

Cyndi
lab worker testing ph balance from wine

By: Thomas J. Payette, Winemaking Consultant

In a recent symposium the speaker stood at the podium.  He started his talk saying “If stranded on a deserted island and the island happened to have grapes planted on it, and he were only allowed just three things he thought he could make some excellent wine.”  These three items were:

• A wine glass

• An excellent pH meter

• An accurate and precise tool to measure SO2

  The above statement gave each attendee at that conference an idea of how important the measurement of pH is to making wine.  Understanding the relationship of pH to each wine is very important for a winemaker to better understand how to handle a wine and to predict where a certain wine’s development may be heading.  Using the experiences drawn from past winemaking developments, one will soon understand how pH is a major factor to consider when making wine.

What is pH?

  pH is a numerical measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a chemical solution.  The measurement is of the hydrogen ion activity and it is logarithmic. This understanding is all the reader needs at this time.  Going much beyond this understanding may only bore the readers and discourage them from moving forward in their reading.  For more in depth knowledge of pH – feel free to research it. 

What is a normal pH Range for a wine?

  Most wines range between a pH of 2.90 and 4.00 with the large majority of wines ranging between 3.20 and 3.80.  Red wines will often be more near 3.40-3.80 and whites wines will normally be in the range of 3.20 – 3.58.  Some wines will stretch these limits but most will conform.  Winemakers must intervene, as needed or desired, to bring the wine back into the proper pH range.

What Influences the pH of a Wine?

  The grape condition: how those grapes are grown, potassium levels in the grapes, maturity level and skin contact after harvest (crushing) will be some of the largest influences on the wine pH. 

Grape condition: Wine grapes that have been allowed to hang will often show an increase in pH moving toward a pH of 4.00 and sometimes higher.  Most winemakers get increasingly nervous as pHs near 3.70 on red wines unless the tannin and anthocyanin structure are intense enough that the wine has some protection.  This protection is often from the antiseptic and oxygen scavenging properties of the tannins and deep color compounds. 

How the grapes are grown: Many factors from the soil, weather, amount of water at the root zone and other factors will affect the pH of the wine.  These relationships need to be studied further to be conclusive, but many factors may be controlled in the vineyard to help achieve the pH desired at harvest.  Much of this is related to canopy management.  Fruit that is grown in dense canopies with greater shading are more likely to come in at a higher pH than their exact same counterpart with hedging and some light exposure on the fruit zone.

Potassium Content:  The potassium content of the grapes may have an influence on the pH of the wine and more importantly the ability of the winemaker to adjust the pH.  When grapes are produced on a vine, research has shown only a certain amount of leaf surface area is needed to bring the grapes to ripeness.  Canopy density and leaf surface area beyond the amount for fruit maturation needed has shown to increase the level of potassium in the fruit.  This potassium may result in higher pH’s in the mature fruit but more importantly offer a buffering capacity in the wine.  This buffering capacity will be a challenge to a winemaker dealing with a wine that has a relatively high titratable acidity and a high ph.  The winemaker may do a tartaric acid addition trial to a batch of wine then find more acid is needed than predicted to achieve the pH desired.  This is a result of the buffering capacity resisting movement of the pH with each incremental addition of acid.  This is one of the many reasons winemakers should find themselves in the vineyard as much as possible working with the vineyard manager to show the vineyard crew how a wine may get out of balance and not have chemical stability with the higher pH. 

Maturity and Malic acid:  The maturation process of most wine grapes is another factor that tends to affect the ph.  As wine grapes mature, more malic acid, especially in warmer climates, will respire leaving more tartaric as the principal acid.  Winemakers watching this rise in pH on the fruit are urged not to worry too much.  This decline in malic acid does result in a higher pH of the fruit at harvest but it will often result in less of a shift of the pH upward after malo-lactic fermentation.  The reason is there is less malic in the wine to be consumed by the malo-lactic bacteria and therefore less of a shift while converting malic acid to lactic.   This principal applies mostly to red grapes but it can have applications to white wine making as well.  The reader should keep in mind this malic shifting process happens in warmer climates mostly and less so in cooler climates.

Skin contact:  Skin contact is another less mentioned factor when speaking of influencing the wine pH.  Juice in contact with the skins after crushing will start to show a rise in the pH soon after crushing.  This process will be more rapid and directly related to the temperature of the must.  For this and many reasons most winemakers prefer to press just after crushing white wine grapes and some prefer whole cluster pressing.

pH shifts during alcoholic fermentation

  When the juice is pressed off a white wine grape or red wine grapes are crushed, an alcoholic fermentation is usually started soon after with yeast.  Alcohol has a higher pH than sugar so it stands to reason that as a wine ferments the pH will start to rise.  Often, one will see a shift upward of about 0.15 to 0.22 in pH so a juice starting at a pH of 3.2 could result in a wine of about 3.40.  This tends to stabilize while under a pH 3.65 as the tartrates precipitating out of solution will help counteract the pH shift upward from the alcoholic fermentation.  Restating – the pH will rise upward during alcoholic fermentation and then drop while cold stabilizing the wine often bringing our pH back to near the original value at harvest in the juice in this example.

pH Shifts During Malo-Lactic Fermentation

  After alcoholic fermentation, depending on the wine being made, the winemaker may want to induce a malo-lactic fermentation.  This is often to reduce the acidity of a wine and to soften the wine by reducing the malic acid content to levels of unfermentable malic acid left over.  The malic that is converted will transform to lactic and provides a pH shift upward in most cases.  Many wines will shift upward by about 0.20 ph units. This is directly linked to how much malic was present prior the malo-lactic fermentation and how much was consumable by the Malo-lactic bacteria.  Quantitatively measuring the malic acid prior to inducing the malo-lactic fermentation will give the winemaker a better rough idea as to how much pH shift to expect once completed.

3.62 Bifurcation

  As noted in a previous addition of The Grapevine Magazine in the “Cold Stabilization article” a very interesting phenomenon does exist in grape wine when the pH of the wine is near roughly 3.62.  This is more directly related to how the pH will react during cold stabilization as potassium bitartrate crystals form and precipitate out of solution.  When a grape wine is below 3.62 and potassium bitartrates fall out during crystallization and precipitation the wine pH will go down.  Conversely – when a wine pH is above 3.62 the pH will shift upward while the tartrates fall out.  Keep in mind this may happen in portion during the alcoholic fermentation as the alcohol level goes up. 

pH and Sulfur Dioxide

  The use of Sulfur Dioxide is closely related to the pH value obtained on a certain wine.  Wines with lower pH values will need less free sulfur dioxide added to them in order to do the job needed.  Conversely wines at a higher pH may need more SO2 to protect them properly.   Another interesting factor with sulfur dioxide does exist on a very small level.  When sulfur dioxide reacts with oxygen it will form H2SO4 or sulfuric acid.  This can have a very small effect on the pH of a wine, especially longer aging reds, in the wine production cellar.

pH and Sorbic Acid

  Sweeter wines will often have potassium sorbate (sorbic acid) added to them to prevent any refermentation issues with that wine.  These sorbates may be used in conjunction or the absence of sterile filtration.  When using sorbates one may lower the amount used if the pH is lower.  An example may be:  a clean “yeast free” wine at pH 3.10 may only need 150 ppm sorbic acid to avoid a refermentation issue.  This is closely linked to the SO2 value measured at bottling and post bottling.  Oxygen pick up must be moderate to little in order to preserve the bottled wine.  Sulfur Dioxide and Sorbic acid work together to prevent yeast fermentation.

Aging Ramifications

  Wines at lower pH values will generally age slower than wines of higher pH values.  This is true of wines treated the same.  A red wine at a higher pH value may soften and age faster.  Some reds may develop a brickish color on the edges.  Try to avoid this and treat wines with a higher pH in a delicate fashion.  Use protective oxygen avoidance measure to help slow the rate of oxidation.  Conversely wines with lower pH may age slower yet may be handled best as well in the absence of oxygen.

pH and Micro-organisms

  The higher the pH of a certain wine, the greater the chance that wine may succumb to a potential unwanted wine microbe.  At higher pH’s a whole host of other bacteria may grow in the wine ranging from lactobacillus, dekkera, acetobacter, brettanomyces and Low Acid Bacteria just to name a few.  So, as our wine pH values increase, we open ourselves up almost exponentially to other potential bacteria issues.  Many of these can greatly change the quality of a wine in a negative fashion.  When monitoring your wine pH’s in the cellar – be aware of which wines are higher and keep a special eye on those wines.

Mouthfeel

  To build confidence with your palate, learn to relate how the mouthfeel is at certain pH’s.  One cannot taste pH yet one can taste acidity and make general assumptions about the pH.  A nice balanced wine may actually have a higher pH lending toward a broader mouthfeel.  This is true with Chardonnay as well as Viognier.  Many reds may do well with higher pH’s if the body, tannins and structure support to give backbone to the palate.

Measuring pH

  The reader is encouraged to obtain a very nice, precise and accurate pH meter with automatic temperature compensation for his or her lab.  Calibrate this unit often and most likely daily when used.  This is a critical measurement in winemaking and obtaining the proper measurement is imperative to make sound winemaking decisions.  Be sure the sample is free of any Carbon Dioxide during measurement because that may interfere.  The meter should measure to the 100th for example 3.46.  Invest in a great meter and use it often.

Summary

  Keep an eye on your pH’s while growing your grapes and making wine.  This tool is of greater importance than most winemakers may think.  Managing the grape’s pH in the vineyards can be a first step and taking action in the cellar should be

the next protocol.  Get a firm understanding of how the pH’s react to each process in your cellar mentioned above to make the best wine possible.

  The next issue will be on How to Raise the pH of your wine.  Till then – be well.

References: 

Amerine, M.A., Berg, H.W., Cruess,W.V. 1972. The Technology of Wine Making

Dharmadhikari, M.R., Wilker, K.L. 2001. Micro Vinification.

Zoecklein, B.W., Fugelsang, K.C., Gump, B.H., and Nury, F.S. 1999. Wine Analysis and Production

Verbal conversations with Jacques Boissenot, Jacques Recht, Chris Johnson and Joachim Hollerith.

If This Was Easy, Everyone Would Do It.

Cyndi
king on laptop with a calculator

By: Susan DeMatei, founder of WineGlass Marketing

Setting expectations is difficult. After all, we all want perfection and success, so isn’t it just positive thinking to predict that your campaigns will be victorious? That’s what “The Secret” tells us, anyway.

  But while it can’t hurt to take a stab at manifesting abundance and contemplating gratitude, you are likely using more concrete values, such as benchmarks and previous performance, to project the results of your marketing campaigns to your management.

  We submit additional data points to anticipate reasonable responses to your marketing campaigns. These data points are:

•             What environment exists around this campaign?

•             What workload can I reasonably handle successfully?

•             What does my management consider, including the cost of goods sold?

  Let’s break each of these down and include some real-life winery examples.*

CONTEXT: What Have you Done for me Lately?

  Many marketing decisions are best made with data. Your database is your guidebook; you should know the segments within, their values, and their behavior. Historical data empowers you to make informed decisions. If you don’t have it, that’s fine, but then expect a low degree of certainty in your predicted response. You should test some targeting, offers, and messages to learn what your database responds to.

  But along with performance benchmarks, it helps to know the history of communication with your customers. Don’t expect them to wake up quickly if you haven’t talked to your database in a predictable cadence or included information about your brand, people, or location to engage them. Customer communications are like any other relationship: the dialog needs thoughtful nurturing. If you only reach out when you have something you need (selling wine), your recipients might turn deaf to your calls to order.

  Take the case of a recent boutique client who, because of the current economic conditions, had cut all social media and emails out over the past two years. Without a tasting room, he felt it prudent to stop all marketing until his new vintage release. It had been a year since his last email, two years since his last social post, and he was ready to release his next vintage. We recommended warming up the audience weeks ahead with updates about the brand, the people, the vintage, and the vineyard. Why spend time on this step? Because you remind consumers who you are and why they fell in love with you in the first place. He declined, citing that he wanted to avoid spending money on any activities that were not about sales.

  We also recommended we launch a low-level advertising program to gather new mailing list signups from Meta for a few hundred dollars. Why? We know that databases naturally decay at a rate of about 2% a month, and with such a long hiatus between touchpoints, there would likely be a fair amount of database degeneration. Meta is the most efficient channel for adding contacts to a database without a tasting room. He also declined this recommendation, insisting we send the email to his database to launch the new wine. It was a beautiful email. He obsessed over every line of copy and took time in the design. It was perfect.

  The database did not return with one single order. It did result in a 10.5% bounce rate (wrong addresses), a meager 6% open rate, and zero clicks. He had expected sales to be like previous years before he cut out all consumer communication. He learned marketing isn’t a faucet you can turn on and off, and one single channel is only part of the story. The sales may come in from an email, but each transaction is influenced by social media posts, emails about the brand, texts on events, or other communications that keep your consumers interested and engaged with your winery. Without hearing from the winery in almost a year, the response was silence when the time came for the new release.

  The parable? Keep up with your marketing – especially now. When you need sales post more, communicate honestly and resist the urge to shrink back into a shell to wait out the storm. Over time, if you share information of value on a consistent schedule with consumers, they will become reliable buyers. This ongoing two-way communication is a responsibility and a commitment, but it’s worth it in the long run. How long, you ask? In our experience, it takes six to nine months of repetition and best practices to train a database to open and click on your emails to the benchmark standards we share here.

Dashboard of Benchmarks

WORKLOAD: If We Could Hold Time in a Bottle.

  It is possible to do everything right, and still be disappointed. Another client recently came to us wanting to use Enolytics for email segmentation. Typically, they had launched one mass email each quarter to their entire database and wanted to learn if breaking it up into segments would bring in more sales. They were specific about the goals – they wanted 4x the cost (our fees) in sales. We dove in, quickly outlined a half dozen segments we wanted to try with email offers, and began the program. From the first week of May to the first week of July, we executed eight emails to micro-segments and brought in over $60,000 in sales – almost 5x our fees. When we paused for a mid-program touch base, we were surprised when the program was canceled.

  Why? They explained that executing eight emails instead of one was a lot of work for their team, which was not set up to work with an agency daily, reviewing copy and images and supporting the resulting sales and customer queries the campaigns created.

  This highlights our second expectation variable—time. Yes, segmentation is effective, and yes, best marketing practices take time and thought, so prepare for that. Set reasonable internal expectations for the time and effort it takes to support smart marketing.

COGS: Rhymes with Dogs, but not as Awesome.

  What your winery considers costs can vary. Typically, the Cost Of Goods/production costs aren’t up for debate. The cost for grapes by ton, barrels, and storage are documented and outlined in the COO’s spreadsheets. However, the Cost Of Goods Sold is another number entirely, as when marketing gets involved, it becomes less defined. A tasting room is likely the most expensive channel to sell if you add up the mortgages or rent, staff, overhead, groundskeeping, utilities, etc. But few wineries consider that. Why are wineries quick to ignore some costs but then obsess about advertising dollars or outsourcing fees?

  Our third example is on this topic, which we battle with frequently. We worked with a substantial Napa Winery, which, seeing tasting room traffic wane, wisely wanted to test whether they could attract consumers to buy wine over $100 purely online. Up for the challenge, we outlined Meta and Google ads and set up for a three-month test. We aimed to sell a three-pack of wine online to brand-new people outside their database.

  At the end of the test, we had spent $7200 and brought in $21k in sales—or a ROAS of 2.89. We were thrilled as the average Return on Ad Spend is around 1.5 for Google and 1.7 for Meta. But we were up for a surprise when our client did not consider the campaign a success. Why? Because they included our cost along with the ad spend, which made it closer to breaking even.

  There are a couple of breaks with logic when including outsourcing fees in your cost of goods sold, and I’m not just saying this to defend our costs. (Ok, maybe I am a little bit.) First, when your employees execute programs internally, it isn’t free. There is still a cost to having employees. You need to include or exclude consistently. The second flaw is that you don’t take a break and go home early when adding outsourced support. No, you are freeing yourself or your team to do other critical tasks of value. So instead of considering outsourcing as just a drain on funds, look at it as paying to accomplish a goal.

  Another point this winery missed was lifetime value of these customers. Remember that the future value of these 42 new consumers is still being determined. Two months later, seven ordered again, and now are a total value of $30k and 50 orders.

BRING IT HOME

  I will leave you with a last cautionary tale combining all three above areas into one misadventure. This involves a very successful central California winery with multiple locations. They intensely focused on traffic to their tasting rooms but needed to create a thoughtful remarketing email program. Since the last marketing manager left, they had not routinely emailed their database in over 18 months. As predicted, the database was sluggish in responding initially, but as our segmentation and repetition continued, we saw sales increase more readily. We micro-targeted groups of 300 – 1000 based on recency and product choice. The client was dubious, and we routinely had to remind him that with small lists come small sales. (After all, a 5% response on a list of 350 recent buyers of a certain SKU is only about two orders). After two and a half months, we had made back the money spent on our retainer and were just starting to see the database respond, but the client pulled the plug, saying the test was “a disaster.” Why? From his point of view, he said he could have done nothing and been in the same spot. I’m sure that is true, but it’s unclear how they’d ultimately succeed sitting on cases of unsold wine with no customers!

  Since they hadn’t done much online sales before, I inquired about his internal barometer for online sales success, to which he replied 4x our retainer cost. I asked him if he included his own employees’ costs when evaluating the tasting room channel, to which he replied, “That’s none of your business.”

  This example combines so many mistaken assumptions about marketing. First, a conjecture that marketing performs immediately at full steam. Second, an lack of understanding that regular segmented emails do bring a higher % of conversions, but realizing the lists are smaller so the number of sales might seem small. (But, they add up.) Third, the inconsistency of including manpower cost in one channel but not another. Finally, unrealistic metrics for success. I have heard some creative KPIs before, but never that marketing shouldn’t cost anything – that the benchmark was comparing any marketing costs to the cost of doing nothing. Doing nothing will always be cheaper. And easier.

  What’s the point of my rant? Well, I got to vent, so if you made it this far, thanks for that. But know there are no tricks. There is no silver bullet. There is no magic tool, database, or platform that will bring you thousands of dollars. Like all things in life, selling your wine takes thought and focus. Marketing is a process that takes time – assume 6-12 months. And money – assume 5% of your gross sales. And effort – sometimes yours, sometimes others. But if you set reasonable expectations and communicate your goals, you can succeed by improving over time.

  Ultimately, the cost of not doing marketing is assuredly failure, which is a far greater cost than anything you might risk with a few ads or emails.

  Susan DeMatei founded WineGlass Marketing; the largest full-service, award-winning marketing firm focused on the wine industry. She is a certified Sommelier and Specialist in Wine, with degrees in Viticulture and Communications, an instructor at Napa Valley Community College, and is currently collaborating on two textbooks. Now in its 12th year, her agency offers domestic and international wineries assistance with all areas of strategy and execution. 

  WineGlass Marketing is located in Napa, California, and can be reached at 707-927-3334 or wineglassmarketing.com