In helping to lead the defense against PD, Carter Creek Winery Resort & Spa, located in Johnson City in the heart of the Texas Hill Country, has just planted more than seven acres of Pierce’s Disease (PD) resistant vines from Wonderful Nurseries. After several years of preparing and working with UC Davis to obtain licensing to sell the vines, Wonderful Nurseries delivered the first batch this spring and will continue to grow these PD resistant vines and supply them to growers throughout the United States.
Caused by the bacterium Xylella Fastidiosa, PD has become a common scourge for grapevines and the grape growing industry at large. Carter Creek winemaker Jon McPherson noted that, as one of the country’s first vineyards to plant the PD resistant vines, a new day may be dawning for growers everywhere in large part due to this transformational breeding project spearheaded by Andy Walker, Ph.D., Genetics, University of California at Davis. “With these new vines, our Texas estate vineyards will now be 100 percent Pierce Disease-resistant,” said McPherson.
CCW_PD Resistant Vines
Wonderful Nurseries, growing one success after another, is proud to play a part in this game-changing industry innovation. These newly planted vines; the Walker Clones of Paseante Noir and Errante Noir are both red grape varieties with ample balance. Offered too are Camminare Noir (red) and two white varieties, Ambulo Blanc and Caminante Blanc.
Carter Creek
Winery Resort & Spa is a new winery resort in the rolling hills of the
Texas Wine Country with tasting rooms, an onsite microbrewery, outdoor event
center and 78 guest villas, owned by Carter Hospitality Group, LLC. This is the
same team that owns and manages award-winning South Coast Winery Resort &
Spa, in Temecula, as well as many other wine and hospitality establishments.
It’s always“Growers First” at Wonderful Nurseries, whether it’s PD-resistant grapevines or any number of industry innovations. For more information call Wonderful Nurseries at (661) 758-4777 or visit their website at WonderfulNurseries.com.
You probably know that I worked and developed several grapevine
disease detection labs in the past. Now
I am on the other side and am able to choose the lab that is able to fir with
the needs of the specific project I am working on and evaluate their practices.
Presently there are many
laboratories that provide testing services dedicated to the detection and
diagnosis of plant pathogens. It can be
confusing to the grower, vineyard manager or nursery staff to decide which
laboratory to choose. My recommendation
is to work with a plant pathologist who can provide guidelines towards the best
option. At the time, there is no
accreditation for grapevine diagnostic laboratories in USA. Therefore, each laboratory is free to develop
their own testing and sampling methodologies.
This article will describe
the different methods used for grapevine pathogen diagnostics and discuss the
advantages and pitfalls of each of them.
Ultimately, I will attempt to convince the reader that the
standardization of the diagnostic methods used for the detection as well
accreditation of testing laboratories should be adopted by the grapevine industry
Different Testing Scenarios
In an ideal world, the
nursery or grower is interested in learning that their propagation and planting
material is free of important pathogens.
But unfortunately, many times, the grower may suspect disease in the
vineyard due to specific symptoms. A
knowledgeable plant pathologist will be able to help on statistical sampling as
well as what type of laboratory is best suited for each case. Regardless of the purpose for testing, below
I will describe the most common methods available for the detection of important
bacterial, fungal, and viral infecting pathogens.
Microbiological Culture
Fungal and bacterial
pathogens can be cultured and isolated in specialized media. However, microorganisms may compete among
each other. Generally, the microbe(s)
with the most competitive growth capacity will overshadow slow microbes that
grow slower, making the diagnosis difficult or even sometimes impossible. In some cases, the diagnosis will be biased
and a laboratory may not be able to report the disease causal agent unless
sophisticated molecular methods are used (see NGS/HTS section). However, in the case of the diagnosis of a
declining vine in the vineyard or nursery, the identification of the fungal
family (i.e., Diatripaceae species are associated with cankers) or
bacterial genus (Agrobacterium species causes crown gall) may be sufficient
to decipher the cause of the problem.
Phytoplasmas (a special type of bacteria that lack cell walls) and
viruses cannot be cultured and their identification must be carried out using
molecular and serological methods.
ELISA, PCR, and RT-PCR
ELISA is the abbreviation
for “enzyme-linked immuno-sorbent assay, and consists of sticking the virus
coat protein on a plastic test plate that was coated with specific
antibodies. The detection can be seen
when there is a change of color in the wells of the test plate (colorimetric
enzymatic reaction). ELISA detection is limited to the amount of virus present
in the sample. PCR, is the abbreviation for polymerase chain reaction. The technique allows the multiplication of
viral nucleic acid from the initial titer (concentration) of pathogen present
in the vine. The process is specific, and utilizes copies of small portions of
the pathogen’s genome to start the copying process. The amplification is
repeated many times, with each copy making more copies, so after the completion
of an appropriate number of PCR cycles, more than a billion copies of the
nucleic acid is produced. For RNA viruses the detection is done using RT-PCR
(RT = a copy of the viral RNA via reverse transcription) before PCR can start. PCR and RT-PCR are sensitive techniques used
for the detection of grapevine pathogens.
The sensitivity and
specificity of the detection of pathogens can be influenced by the season as
well as the part of the vine from which samples are collected. While ELISA is
generally thought to be less sensitive than RT-PCR, the ELISA has a broader
spectrum of detection but is available only for grapevine viruses and can
detect a range of virus variants. On the other hand, PCR can be too specific,
and miss the detection of isolates of the same virus even when slightly
different. Using both ELISA and RT-PCR consecutively is recommended to reliably
detect grapevine leafroll viruses, as each method is designed to detect
different portions of a virus.
Single Use Strips for “in house”
Detection
A molecular single use
strip test has been developed for the detection of Grapevine red botch virus (GRBV) that can be used for in-field testing. Although, this test is marketed for use in
the field, for reliable results, the assays should be conducted by experienced
technicians in a clean laboratory. If a
lay person were to attempt to run the assay, they the instructions must be
carefully followed, as the steps are complicated and require measuring small
quantities of material (microliters of components). In my opinion, it is worthwhile to have an
experienced laboratory run these tests.
It is expected that laboratory personnel are trained to keep the sample
and other materials free of contamination.
In the past, a kit was available for the “in house” detection of Grapevine leafroll associated -3 (GLRaV-3). However, many different leafroll viruses can
cause leafroll disease and obtaining a negative result for GLRaV-3 would have
given the false impression that the vineyard block or sample in question was
not infected.
Next Generation or High Throughput Sequencing
The next generation
sequencing (NGS) also known as high throughput sequencing (HTS) is a powerful
method that allows the laboratory to detect any organism present in a sample.
When NGS or HTS is
applied, the complete sequence of the genetic material or microbiome present in
the tested plant material or soil can be obtained. Generally, during the sample preparation, the
pathogens specific sequences are enriched to increase the sensitivity of the
assay (for example the lab may just amplify fungal sequences). The data obtained is analyzed with
sophisticated software that is able to list the bacteria, fungi, virus, or
other organisms (beneficial or pathogenic) present in the sample. The method can provide relative quantitative
data, generally expressed in percentages, of each organism found. The NGS has been widely used in research and
has allowed the discovery and characterization of important viruses such as
Grapevine red blotch associated virus. Presently, this technique is being
applied for the commercial testing of plant and soil samples to detect
bacterial and fungal microorganisms. A
plant pathologist with expertise in bacterial, fungal, and viral taxonomy is
able to associate the presence of the microorganisms found with disease
symptoms (or potential disease development).
Need for Accreditation of
Laboratories
As mentioned earlier, at
the moment, there is no accreditation system for laboratories performing
grapevine diagnostic testing. The closer
we have gotten to these efforts is a ring test run by the Lodi Wine Grape Commission. A ring test consists in providing
laboratories with “blind” samples of known infection status to determine if the
laboratory’s in-house procedures are able to detect the correct infection
status in each sample. In the past, while affiliated to various laboratories I
was a participant of such ring tests.
In the fall of 2018, the
Lodi Wine Commission ran a ring test to evaluate the different labs that offer
testing for the diagnostics of grapevine viruses. The laboratories received a large number of
homogenized samples that were infected with various grapevine viruses. The results of each laboratory were shared
privately with the participant laboratories.
To the best of my knowledge no accreditation was granted. While it is a great first step to carry out a
ring test with the laboratories, future tests could be improved by providing
the laboratory with portions of grapevines rather than a homogenized
powder. While it is understanding that
homogenized samples may avoid the possibility of uneven distribution of viruses
in the grapevine material, the capacity of the laboratory to process whole
samples is important. The integrity of
the samples would determine if the laboratory is proficient on processing each
sample without cross contamination or degrading the potential viruses present.
Conclusions
The standardization of the
diagnostic methods for the detection of grapevine pathogens should be a goal
for the viticulture industry in the near future. The accreditation of laboratories is of upmost
importance for evaluating the reliability of testing labs. Standardization of sampling and testing is
common in other fields of food and plant pathogens. It is puzzling that the grapevine industry
has not adopted a system given the importance of this perennial crop. My philosophy is that a vineyard must be
planted with the healthiest available material as vineyards must live a long
healthy life. If a vineyard is planted with
diseased material, the life expectancy is reduced (not to mention the possibility
of perpetration and spread of pathogens in the vineyard and neighboring
vineyards)
It is encouraging to know
that new and more sensitive pathogen detection methods are being developed and
applied for the diagnostic of grapevine pathogens. The next generation sequencing or HTS is
becoming more affordable and available for the detection at the species level
of microorganisms in plants and soil. It
is expected that in the near future, these methods will be applied on new
planting material and help develop healthy vineyards.
Judit Monis, Ph.D. provides specialized services to help growers, vineyard managers, and nursery personnel avoid the propagation and transmission of disease caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses in their vineyard blocks. Judit (based in California) is fluent in Spanish and is available to consult in all wine grape growing regions of the word. Please visit juditmonis.com for information or contact juditmonis@yahoo.comto request a consulting session at your vineyard.
Preparing for harvest is critical and happens during all the
larger part of a year. Let’s start
thinking about harvest now. It’s not a
one-day process just before the first load of fruit arrives on the crush
pad. We will go over the planning
process of how to be most prepared and confident when the fruit of the harvest
starts to arrive. Part of the plan may
include taking a vacation so read on!
Obtain a calendar: This will be the most useful tool for your
planning from bottling, to fixing equipment and ordering yeast/chemicals
etc. I prefer a large erasable calendar
so one can plan out 4 to 6 months at a minimum.
Have cellar workers use this for their projected time off also. It is a great communication resource for
everyone!
Note taking during harvest: This is the first step and the key step for subsequent success in
future harvest(s) to come. Make notes of
any production pitfalls, machinery issues, fruit handling upgrade wishes,
squealing bearings, worn belts etc. Keep
visiting this list and make sure to plug budgetary items in at the appropriate
time.
When do you start? Start preparing for the harvest planning
exercise by optimistically looking at the vineyard and expected fruit or juices
for the harvest seven or eight months in advance. Plan, order and negotiate any cooperage or
tanks space adjustments early on to fit upcoming predicted production.
Plan tank capacity: With initial vineyard tonnage projections in
hand start to forecast empty tank capacity and cooperage. Plug into this projection tanks you expect to
have bottled by harvest. Is there enough
predicted empty tank capacity available to allow all the fruit projected to fit
into the cellar? Is there an overrun
plan? Would large tanker trailers be
available if needed for excesses? Think
through as many options as possible. If
you calculate you need more volume capacity– get that on order.
Place orders for tanks and cooperage: Take time near January of each year to place orders for stainless
steel tanks and barrels. In many cases
for stainless steel you can order custom made tanks for the same price as
stock. This way – you get exactly the
features you want in your tank and you can specify quality. Treat cooperage the same way. Talk to your barrel supplier(s) and express
an (“optimistic”) order should agricultural expectations go as planned. Most barrel suppliers will work with you to
be flexible (within reason) to help you plan your tank capacity and this helps
them plan their production work load.
Make a bottling schedule: Make sure to plan exactly what you need to
bottle to integrate properly with the sales goals and to empty the amount of
tank space needed. This will need to be
coordinated with the warehouse personnel and taking into consideration
warehouse space. Stick with the bottling
schedule since it is integral to your projected bulk wine volume tank space
requirements needs. Speak with sales to
understand their expected sales rates and understand if any varietals will be
placed on “special” accelerating predicted sales rates.
Visit the machinery in the winter months: Start reviewing worn out belts, replace and
repack bearings that are showing wear.
Motors; bearings; chains etc.
Order spare parts of anything that seems worn or in need of repair
soon. Create a plan. Upgrade the machinery and adapt to making the
crush process easier. Look at pomace
removal systems and explore options. Do
these repairs and reviews while you have the time to take action. (The same theory applies during harvest –
work on your bottling line!)
Review the cellar journal/log: Looking at entries in the cellar log will
often jar the memories of items that needed refinement of the harvest
prior. This will help in the planning
process of what may need attention for next harvest also.
In the Spring: Start to count picking lugs, bins, shears and
gondolas. Review vineyard data
projections for tonnage and get a grasp on how that tonnage will be transported
to the winery. Inspect wagons, tires and
gondolas. This review in the spring will
allow enough time to make adjustments and to plan for these upcoming events. Make plans for harvest help and contact any
interns you plan to have in place
Early Summer:
Have
a refined crop estimate submitted by each grower. With more solid fruit estimates in hand
refine your tank and vessel needs for the winery. Start thinking about yeast and stylistic
production goals. How will these be
achieved? Start taking further action to
fix and refine the machinery for the crush pad.
This is a time of year better suited for this work outdoors and allows
for errors to be fixed with ample time.
Mid-Summer: Have a review done of your chilling
system. Is it operating properly? Will there be enough cooling tonnage for the
increased capacity? Do you care to
relocate any tanks? Will
refrigeration/glycol lines need to cut for adding additional tanks? Will this impact your bottling schedule?
Two months before harvest: Place an order for yeast, enzymes, nutrients,
ML cultures, tank cleaning chemicals, citric acid, soda ash, etc. Have comfortable shipping dates discussed
with your supplier to avoid rush fees.
(Keep in mind some companies offer free shipping in July)
• Start to address clutter
in the winery and on the crush pad.
Contact the appropriate people to solve any situations that exist. Having the proper elbow room at the start of
crush is crucial for mobility during crush.
• Fix and / or replace any
leaky transfer hoses. Order needed
gaskets; clamps etc to make sure the hoses can be repaired and assembled
without leakage.
• Clean all your hoses a
few times before harvest.
• Order all fresh lab
chemicals to get you through the entire crush season. Date them as they arrive. Clean house:
Out with old… in with new.
• Develop and refine any
written protocols (Lees filter press operation, tank cleaning, press cleaning,
crusher cleaning etc) for upcoming harvest helpers or interns. If interns will be from another country try
to have your protocols translated or have interns do this at the end of one of
their previous seasons.
• Physically rehearse step
by step the harvest crush pad process on the crush pad. Have everyone understand the
grape/must/product flow that will be anticipated for each style of wine.
• Discuss possible two
shift scenarios if you envision this may be something you are considering. Most people are receptive to this option if
they can mentally prepare. Less success
is achieved if the idea is new and forced.
Start a list of odd jobs: I have often found this to be very helpful
when fruit is delayed arriving at the crush pad and harvest helpers are apt to
stand and wait. Painting the outside
fence, sprucing up the winery entrance or repairing picnic tables for common
area can be some examples.
Landscaping. All wineries have
project lists that are usually very long and this can help cross those off the
list. This is a great point score with
owners and keeps employees busy.
Once all the bottling is
finished and some breathing room potentially exists start to work on and repair
the bottling line during harvest.
Take a vacation: Once you have successfully completed the
bottling and all your harvest chemicals are either in house or confirmed on
their way…. take a vacation and make sure your other staff take a
vacation. This is the dangling carrot
that keeps us all challenged and ultimately relaxed going into a harvest.
Low stress: Start your harvest in a low stress relaxed
environment while taking notes on future needs and improvements so each year
will become smoother and smoother. Your
low stress start will allow you to handle the complexities of harvest with
confidence, courage and excellent judgment.
Your winemaking will shine as a result of your planning.
In short: Start
taking notes this upcoming harvest and plan your machinery maintenance very
early. Use a calendar to help keep this
project moving along, bottle up all the wine projected and be ready for the
expected tonnage to arrive and perhaps…a few extras.
Spring pruning is one of the most vital applications vineyard managers can control, so it’s always beneficial to cross-check your processes with an expert or two. Depending on the air temperatures in your region, you might be edging into budburst (also referred to as budbreak) right now, and believe most of your pruning is complete.
However, according to Fritz Westover, owner of Westover Vineyard Advising and Virtual Viticulture Academy in Texas, there are always reasons to examine the results of pruning not only at the start of the season but also throughout, to understand what worked and what should be remedied. Watch helpful instructional pruning videos from Fritz Westover.
“I do a lot of post-pruning site visits with growers, and it’s always informative to learn what you did wrong after you did it!” Westover joked. “The number one mistake I correct is the retention of small wood, followed by the retention of too many buds per vine. Both can result in an inefficient canopy, poor fruit quality and overall less balanced vines. The good news is that it’s easier to take buds off than to put them back on.”
Spur and Cane Pruning: Reasons for Each
“Ideally, the decision to spur or cane prune should be made before designing and planting a vineyard,” Westover said. “However, most varieties can adapt to either a cane- or spur-pruned system. Also, I’ve found both vertical shoot positions or high-fruiting wire training systems can adapt to spur or cane pruning.”
“A lot of our decisions regarding spur vs. cane pruning is based upon varietal,” Kim Myers told The Grapevine Magazine. Myers , co-owner, Laurel Gray Vineyards and Yadkin Valley Wine Company, along with her husband, Ben, co-stewards land in North Carolina that’s been in the family for 10 generations. Their 10.5-acre vineyard, Laurel Gray, features estate French vinifera vines such as Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Their winery, Yadkin Valley Wine Company, produces award-winning selections, including a signature Bourdeaux blend, Scarlet Mountain; Estate Barrel Fermented Chardonnay; and Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Viognier.
“Spur pruning is used for varieties that show high fruitfulness on basal buds. For example, Cabernet Sauvignon works very well on spur pruning—until it’s time to renew the cordons. When renewing, we cane prune in order to establish a new healthy cordon,” she said. “Viognier produced best when cane-pruned because this technique allows more light on to the cordon and into the canopy.”
“Generally, spur pruning, once established, is less labor-intensive. It’s easy to do and easy to teach, especially for vines that are trained on fences or trellises,” Myers added.
Westover provided further recommendations. “In general, sites that require in-row vine spacing wider than four feet are better adapted to a cordon/spur-pruning system to best utilize the space in the fruiting zone, as laying canes longer than 18-24 inches can result in poor shoot size uniformity in many varieties,” he said.
“Cane pruning, on the other hand, results in a vine that has a lower number of pruning wounds than a vine that is spur-pruned. Therefore, there might be less opportunity for certain fungal diseases that infect pruning wounds and cause grapevine trunk diseases,” he said. “Additionally, there’s less old wood on a cane-pruned vine and less potential area for disease spores to overwinter, such as phomopsis or other GTD-associated pathogens. Some varieties are also known to be more fruitful when cane-pruned, such as Nebbiolo or Malvasia Bianca.”
“Cane pruning requires a high level of expertise, is more expensive and takes more time,” Myers added. “You have to make very educated choices about each and every vine. However, cane pruning has many advantages: frost protection, even production and even spacing of growing shoots in the spring.”
Similar to what Myers does at Laurel Gray, Westover incorporates both methods for individual vines on some of his clients’ properties. “This isn’t typical, but can help increase the yield on vines that have high vigor but low yields due to small cluster size or shading of lower bud position of the spurs,” he said. “Careful consideration should be made as to where to use this practice, as the extra buds can cause crowding in the canopy, which can increase disease pressure in wet, humid climates.”
Another mitigating factor for following a pruning method is the rumbling advance of mechanized or “no-touch” vineyard operations. The University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Department released data in 2019 from a 53-acre Merlot research vineyard in the San Joaquin Valley—where more than half of all California grapes are grown— that indicated mechanical pruning “reduced labor costs by 90%, resulted in increased grape yields and had no impact on the grape berry’s anthocyanin content.”
Kaan Kurtural, UC Cooperative Extension specialist in the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology; and George Zhuang, UCCE viticulture advisor in Fresno County; conduct conference panels and webinars about the process, which they say is the future of pruning for operations of 150–300 acres.
So keep in mind as you strategize production growth and processes, “one of the greatest disadvantages to cane pruning in our future shift to mechanization is that it cannot be easily machine-pruned,” Westover said.
Questions of the Advisor
Since Westover consults for dozens of vineyards east of the Rocky Mountains through his onsite visits and victual academy, we asked him to provide answers to the top three questions he gets regarding pruning. They are:
1. When should I start pruning?
A: Depending on vineyard size, time and labor, if a grower in the Northern Hemisphere uses pre-pruning or partial pruning, I encourage them to start in January and move to final pruning at a time that allows them to complete it prior to budburst. So, for example, a small grower may be able to prune in a week and can start the process 10-to-14 days before the historical average budburst date in their area. Larger vineyards obviously need more time and may be pruning steady until budburst.
2. Do I need to protect pruning wounds from GTDs?
A: Fungal diseases associated with GTDs are primarily spread by splashing rain. Therefore, it’s important not to prune when it’s raining or when rain is predicted within the next few days—I advise my growers to wait until after the rain. In some cases, registered fungicides can be applied to protect pruning wounds from infection, such as Topsin M—check your state registry status. If pruning wounds have healed over, or if no rain is predicted, then protective sprays can be avoided. There are also products available now that can be painted over the top of larger pruning wounds to create a physical boundary against pruning wounds, such as VitiSeal.
3. What if I don’t finish before budburst?
A: Ideally, all final pruning will be completed a week or so before budburst. When shoots begin to grow, they first emerge on the most distal part of a cane, which is referred to as “apical dominance” of shoots across a cane. Some growers intentionally hold off final pruning until the onset of budburst on distal bud positions, as this can delay the budburst of the lower buds retained as spurs near the cordon. This small delay in budburst can result in the avoidance of a late spring freeze by 7-to-14 days, depending on site and variety. However, if a grower doesn’t complete final pruning before the shoots on the distal nodes reach greater than two inches in length, the lower bud positions can lose fruitfulness. The bottom line: pruning needs to be completed by bud swell—and not later.
Education, Sterilization, and Clean-Up Ensures Successful Results
Many vineyard managers hire crews with pruning experience, while some do a crash course each season with trusted volunteers. In either scenario, Westover said, you need to ensure people do what your vines require.
“Cut-and-paste pruning strategies won’t address the needs of each block. A pruning crew is only as good as its instructor, and it’s often necessary to have a lot of supervision the first few days of pruning—and again any time the pruning strategy changes between vineyard blocks,” he said. “Educate your crew and stick with them until the end. I share videos with my clients from my website, and on a rainy day, the crew watches those. Repetition of key pruning concepts is a great way to empower your crew to make decisions on their own and quickly.”
One example he provides is that vigorous vines with large cane diameters can retain spurs with two-count buds, whereas smaller vines or vines with some small canes may need to have several spur positions pruned back to a one-count bud. “The motto I use in my academy is ‘no wimpy wood’—which seems to resonate with growers and results in less wimpy shoots that produce inferior fruit,” Westover of Virtual Viticulture Academy told The Grapevine Magazine.
“Weather can also cause a shift in a standard pruning protocol. For instance, in a year with high primary bud death due to freeze conditions, a grower needs to first assess the percentage of bud death in the vineyard, and then adjust the final number of count buds per vine to compensate,” he said. “This isn’t easy to do, but it can certainly help keep a vineyard in business through a tough season if done properly—and some live buds remain!”
Myers’ pruning team includes two people on staff for a 40–plus workweek who are in the vineyard daily. One of her primary takeaway tips is proper sterilization. “Clean pruning tools at the end of each row, and especially when changing varietals.”
Westover agreed. “This is an area of research that we have little information on at this time, but sterilizing shears after each row and—at a minimum—between blocks is a good practice. Solutions of 10% bleach or 70% isopropyl alcohol are inexpensive options to spray on shears,” he said.
So is the work done once buds break? Not necessarily. “Stay proactive on your vineyard management programs from pruning until frost to avoid uncontrollable problems,” said Myers of Laurel Gray Vineyards. “Watch for split vines that may have happened due to extreme cold weather when the sap was rising. Remove all cut wood from the vineyard floor and spray while still dormant with lime sulfur to kill any disease spores that overwintered in mummified fruit, dead wood or old leaves.”
Also remember that not removing enough canes “will cause over-production with a too-dense canopy, under-ripe fruit and conditions for disease,” she said. “These conditions require more labor through the growing season because the vineyard manager is constantly trying to combat these issues through summer hedging, spraying and leaf removal.”
By:
Nathan Chambers, Gaynor Strachan Chun and Susan DeMatei
Research shows that your email success can be significantly
improved if you enact a campaign list segmentation strategy – MailChimp reports
that segmented emails can increase open rates by +15% and click through rates
by up to 100%.
Segmenting your email list
allows you to deliver more personalized and relevant content to specific groups
of customers. Not segmenting your list results in higher customer attrition. On
average, over half of those who subscribe to email lists end up throwing the
email in the trash when it hits their inbox.
For your customer, there
are many reasons why they will be more likely to open an email from a brand
that delivers content that is more relevant to them in a timely manner. One of
the most important reasons is it shows them you understand their needs and
wants. In other words, it delivers a more personalized experience.
For you and your brand,
the value of email list segmentation is quite simple – increased ROI.
Segmenting your email list drives increases in loyalty and lifetime value
(LTV).
Let’s look at it from your
customer’s perspective. They were at the winery, they filled out a customer
information card, or made a purchase and shipped bottles home; they either
asked or were aware they’d be added to the mailing list and are hoping for
special offers, events, or other news. This is a transaction of trust. As a
payback for their trust in you, customers expect to get something of value
back, on a reliable basis, and not so often that it adds to their in-box clutter.
If the only thing you offer them is random, or generic, you violate that trust.
But where do you start?
Here are 7 effective ways to segment your email list and leverage other data to
increase your email ROI.
#1: Demographics: The simplest way to segment your list is by
demographics. Age, gender, job title, native language, etc. These traits,
individually or combined, can help you understand what products or offers they
are more likely to be interested in.
#2: Survey Results:
People like being asked what they want and
need. Rather than overloading your opt-in function, use your list to conduct
surveys. This way you can create a more complete picture of your target
audience. Ask about interests, needs, why they chose your brand.
You can then use your
survey results to segment by interest, sending content that is relevant to the
different interest groups. Maybe you have a group of customers who love recipes
and like to cook. Target them with an email about a new wine and include a food
and wine pairing recipe element. This will greatly increase your rate of
engagement with this customer segment. The more they engage, the more likely
they are to keep an eye out for further emails. Repeating that engagement until
it becomes a regular habit.
#3: Sending
Frequency: Nobody likes their email box to be overloaded,
even if the emails they are receiving might be relevant to them. Understanding
the optimal cadence for your emails can be difficult. Use your email engagement
data to understand the best frequency. The ideal frequency may also vary by
segment.
#4: Geolocation
Segmentation: The easiest and quickest
way to segment your database is through geography. For instance, target people
in a certain area for events, or shipping offers based on weather. When they
joined the mailing list, they felt a connection. Your customers expect
accountability, integrity, and accuracy. Geolocation segmentation offers many
benefits beyond email campaigns. “Taking the winery on the road” brings the
winery and the wines to those who may not make it back to your tasting room.
Your winery can develop relationships with retailers or have Wine Club members
host a tasting at their home in a key market.
#5: Page Views: Where do your website visitors spend most of
their time? By analyzing your page views, you can better understand what your
visitors are looking for and even segment content to them. Are they looking for
the hours your tasting room is open? The send them tasting room information.
Are they looking at the gift set page? Send them a vertical package offer. One
of the easiest segmented communications in this group is to target a resend to
people who opened an email and went to the landing page of the product for sale
but didn’t buy. These retargeted communications might be just the reminder they
needed to complete the purchase. Whatever messaging you choose to play with,
when you tie your email segmentation to website visits, these insights to
create more relevant content for your emails.
#6: Purchase Cycle: Understanding the purchase and repurchase
cycle of different groups of customers is invaluable. It allows you to build
customer behavior profiles and each profile type will respond to different
email approaches. If a customer has just signed up for your mailing list, they
will want an introduction to who you are and what you offer. A case or library
magnum offer is not for this group who are just getting to know you. What you
want to do with customers early in their life cycle with you is reduce barrier
to trial, so give them single or double bottle offers with your best-selling
wines. Save the big purchases for when they become loyal members (and then
segment on their past purchases – see below). With the purchase cycle in mind,
you can tailor email content and timing based on customer behavior, increasing
your likelihood of conversion.
#7 Past Purchases: By analyzing what your different groups of
customers are buying, you build an understanding of what products interest them
and what products don’t. This allows you to create target segments for each
product type and only send information or offers about products you know will
interest them, increasingly your likelihood of securing a sale. Additionally,
it signals to the customer that you care about their preferences and are not
sending them emails about products they would never buy.
For instance, imagine you
decide to send a special offer email on a new vintage of a particular wine. If
a group of your loyal repeat customers have never purchased that varietal, why
would they care? New members will appreciate the email and may make a purchase
because they’re trying new things, but most consumers show you through purchase
action what they’re interested in. Send them too many emails that don’t apply and
they’ll ignore it or, worse yet, mark it as spam or unsubscribe.
Implementing These Strategies
Don’t try to tackle all
these segmentation strategies at once. It’s more valuable to master one of
these strategies before developing the next one than it is to fumble with
implementing all of them at once. Baby-steps count. Start with one idea with a
goal to try out a new segmentation each month. Then you’ll see what your
database responds positively to, and you can play more in the areas that
resonate. The single most important thing is to at least try segmentation in
all your campaigns. Doing so will undoubtedly increase your success rates and
metrics for your ongoing email marketing.
Susan DeMatei, Nathan Chambers and Gaynor Strachan Chun work for WineGlass Marketing, a full-service direct marketing
firm operating within the wine industry in Napa, California.
From pruning, shoot
thinning and positioning, leaf and lateral care to hands-on vine training,
canopy management is the best way for a vineyard to achieve optimal, mature fruit
from their vines. Good canopy management, partnered with the proper trellis and
row spacing, allows vineyards to better combat fruit loss due to disease or
pest damage while providing an overall protective and nurturing environment.
Canopy Management Is An Evolving Science
“It’s always been
evolving, but it seems to be moving along at a more deliberate pace now,” said
Duff Bevill, founder and partner of Bevill Vineyard Management in Healdsburg,
California. “We’ve come a long way in the past 30 years from when it was
fashionable just to have the California flop, meaning the grapes were grown-up
vertically, and the canopy was left to flop over. When increased production was
needed, and European varieties were introduced, it became apparent that we needed
to provide better light and greater air circulation for the fruit. Around the
1980s came the push to reduce or eliminate bunch rot and mold, and after a
particularly wet season, the practice of leafing began. Then around the
mid-1980s, Dr. Richard Smart, an Australian viticulturist, revolutionized our
way of grape growing with his Smart-Dyson trellis system.”
Smart’s trellis system
helps canopy management by finding the balance in leaving enough foliage to
facilitate the necessary photosynthesis process without causing excessive
shading that would negatively impact fruit ripening or promote disease.
“His style of trellis
system is still the way to go,” said Bevill. “We see the Vertical Shoot
Position trellis or modified VSP trellis with movable wires used the most
because it traditionally results in a high-quality first crop. Another popular
configuration is the high wire system, with the first wire 42 to 48 inches
above the ground and then a secondary wire hanging about six inches above that
first one. The downside to the high wire system is that it creates a need for
manual shoot training for about the first five years. But if done properly,
subsequent pruning can be done mechanically, with manual pruning only necessary
for mechanical misses. Suckering is also minimal.”
Bevill told The Grapevine Magazine that hand labor can eat up to 60% of a vineyard’s expenses, so
that is an area of canopy management that is drawing extra attention. In an
industry looking toward a mechanized future but, in the meantime, still
requires hand labor, the VSP trellis remains the best all-around canopy
management trellis for fruit production.
“First, that hand labor
has to be available,” said Bevill, “and it needs to be available when needed,
frequently and for extended times to get the fruit picked on time and during
prime harvest conditions. That’s getting harder to come by and more expensive
to utilize. We offer bunkhouses and higher wages to our immigrant workers here
on H2A visas to ensure our labor availability. But if things keep going the way
they are, I would estimate that such extensive use of hand labor will end
within the next five or six years in favor of mechanical labor. Compatible
trellis design, along with smart canopy management, has a lot to do with this,
allowing your trellis systems and vine configurations to grow in a manner that
is favorable to mechanical picking, pruning and leafing. It’s better if you can
accomplish these tasks with the off-the-shelf mechanical implements available
today.”
Bevill has already seen
this in action. By applying the principles of trellis placement and design with
well-planned canopy management, the cabernet sauvignon vineyards have shown a
dramatic decrease in farming costs associated with labor.
“Only one man is needed
per ten acres here in Sonoma County,” said Bevill. “That figure matches what we
believe is necessary, and that’s also what we have and use. Currently, only
about 50% of farms are mechanically harvested. Many older ones can’t take
advantage of mechanized farming because of how they were originally planned.
Some leafing and mechanical harvesting can be done, but much of the canopy
management has to be done by hand. Some older vineyards with their original
planted vine systems are still entirely managed using hand labor. We are seeing
a lot of these vineyards now being pulled out and replanted to use a flat-faced
trellis system more conducive to mechanical farming.”
Bevill told The Grapevine Magazine that mechanized farming will likely be the focus for the
foreseeable future. There is nothing new on the horizon regarding the
mechanical aspect of agriculture. All the advancements are within farming
technology, things like devices to better detect the best times and amounts for
irrigation, and increased uses for drone mapping. The yields and performance of
high wire trellises are showing promise, but it will be another 10 years before
any data can be confidently identified as reliable.
“Overall, farming
knowledge is constantly increasing, and as a vineyard management company, we
are always looking at new and better planting standards and goals. They’re all
tied into making mechanized farming as friendly as possible,” said Bevill.
“Acquiring and using machinery to do the work is certainly the way of the
future. It’s much cheaper and more reliable than hand labor, and let’s face it,
it’s there when you need it.”
Seeing Each Vineyard As A Unique Environment
“I literally have a
different protocol for every vineyard depending on the winemaker’s desires for
his product and the environment that we’re growing in,” said Mike Loconto,
viticulturist for Barbour Vineyards, a vineyard management and development
company in Napa, California. “You know, we do all the normal tasks, like
suckering, tucking, shoot positioning and hedging, but the winemaker’s end goal
determines the amount and timing of these tasks and the best canopy management
practices for their situation. For example, we like to leave 12, 14, or 16
leaves per shoot to get two clusters of fruit out of each one, but when to
remove those leaves is different for each client. We always like to open up the
fruit zone, including below the clusters, but you have to leave just enough
shade to baffle the sunlight and produce a great environment all around the
fruit zone. It’s about getting sunlight and airflow to that bloom at the right
time to deter disease and increase the quality of the fruit.”
Loconto told The Grapevine Magazine that canopy management in Napa is all about controlling the heat
and sun exposure to provide the highest quality fruit and the highest volume of
product. When some of the older vineyards were installed, they preferred open,
wide spacing between the rows. Over time, in an attempt to increase grape
production, the vineyards started tightening up and leaving less and less
spacing between the rows. Some were tightened to the point that they lost
volume, quality, or both by inadvertently limiting light and decreasing
airflow, increasing heat retention and inferior growing conditions.
“Heat prevention here in
Napa is big and proven to directly affect quality, so now we try to stay around
the seven-foot mark for row spacing and utilize cross arms to provide shade and
heat prevention for the fruit,” said Loconto. “In any vineyard installation,
you want to be smart about canopy management and factor in the ability to
mechanize the farming now or in the future. Labor is so expensive that even if
you can find it, you may not be able to afford the amount you’ll need to get
the tasks done on time. Canopy size and row spacing need to be used jointly so
that at some point, mechanized tools can be used for leafing, pruning and
harvesting. By using between eight and 12-inch cross arms, you make more
effective use of available mechanized tools.”
Loconto works mostly with
high-end cabernet growers, and over the past five to 10 years, he’s seen the
customary canopy management practices start to change.
“Call it climate change or
whatever, but we’re starting to see a fundamental change,” said Loconto.
“There’s still a high use of VSP or modified VSP trellis systems, but any newly
planted, replaced or moved rows are being repositioned and spun in a better and
more precise North-South orientation. This makes better use of the natural path
of the sun and maximizes and better balances the use of morning and afternoon
for both sides of the canopy. After that, it’s about timing and the goals of
the vineyard regarding their fruit and vine quality and desired yield. If you
have weak or younger vines, it may be better to sucker sooner and perform your
fruit thinning. For stronger and older vines, you can thin fruit and sucker
later for maximum sugar loading. Open zones are beneficial for more aromatic
profiles, and they can help with the amount of acidity and tannin development
with simple vine management. You always want warm days and good sap flow for
pruning.”
Different environments
require different management and trellis considerations. Vineyards located in
volatile weather settings have to be willing to use netting, shades or some
other blocking material in case of severe weather, extreme winds or hailstorms.
Some colder climate vineyards make use of buried canes, green growing vines
that are pulled down and buried in the vine row. The Geneva Double Curtain
trellis is a popular choice for increased frost protection because of its
downward growing, split canopy system. Still, being bulky and top-heavy, it is
a liability in areas experiencing frequent windy situations.
“Our biggest challenge here in Napa is to
develop mechanized vineyards that retain the quality we’re known for, while
also controlling heat and sun exposure issues,” said Loconto. “Everywhere you
go, you’ll see misters and shade cloth used to combat sun exposure. For those
older vineyards that are still orientated to have unequal amounts of sun in the
morning and afternoon, there is a noticeable difference on the contrasting
sides of the vine. Any issues we address have to be solved with the idea of
optimizing our vineyards for mechanical farming. Plain and simple, labor is
just hard to come by and getting harder. Some equipment manufacturers are
helping by developing machines that are comparable to hand labor, gently
pulling the right amount of leaves while being relatively gentle on the fruit
and soft on the clusters. That trend has to continue to move towards the
mechanized vineyard.”
A quick glance at the wine list at Fullerton Wines, and one could
easily be fooled into thinking this family-run venture is a large-scale
commercial winery. Depending on one’s palate and pock-etbook, they can choose
from Fullerton Wines’ Single Vineyard and Reserve wines, their nu-anced Five
FACES line of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, or their more playful and lighter
Three Otters line of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Rosé and Pinot Gris. So
how can a boutique winery that produces 8,000 cases annually craft such a vast
array of wines?
The short answer? “I’m on
the road a lot,” said Fullerton Wines’ winemaker, Alex Fullerton. The long
answer starts with Alex’s lifelong passion for wine, cultivated through his
family back-ground and education in viticulture and enology at Oregon State
University. These factors gave him the tools he needed to craft distinctive
wines that reflect the soil where they are grown.
A Wine-Loving Family
Prior to founding
Fullerton Wines, Eric and Susanne Fullerton, hailing from Denmark and Swe-den
respectively, introduced their passion for wine to son Alex and his siblings.
As a teenager, Alex caught the wine bug during a trip to France with his
father. His interest continued when he journeyed with his family through
Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne and other Old World re-gions. During these trips,
he learned how wine can serve as a bridge between cultures.
After high school, Alex attended
OSU, where he graduated with an economics degree before en-rolling in the
Viticulture and Enology program. Here he obtained the scientific skills needed
to fine-tune the informal education and refined palate he received from his
parents.
After college, Alex worked
at Drylands Winery in Marlborough, New Zealand, as well as Pen-ner-Ash Wine
Cellar and Bergström Wines, two wineries based in Newburg, Oregon. While
get-ting hands-on experiences at Willamette Valley wineries, he gained an
in-depth understanding of Willamette Valley soils. While the Valley’s soil is
known internationally for producing award-winning Pinot Noirs, other area soils
are ideally suited for growing white wines such as Char-donnay and Pinot Gris.
In some instances, the same soil can produce both grapes.
In 2011, Alex and his
family put that Willamette Valley soil to the test. Despite a challenging
growing season, they achieved success with the 468 Chardonnay vines planted at
Estate Ivy Slope Vineyard, the formal name of the family’s backyard in
Beaverton, Oregon, on the northern border of Willamette Valley.
From the winery’s
inception, the Fullertons have sought to produce quality fruit that mitigates
the impact of climate change. They achieved this goal by employing organic and
biodynamic farming methods such as permanent cover cropping and the use of
organic fertilizers.
Looking to the Soil
Since then, the Fullertons
expanded their winery by exploring which grapes work best with the type of soil
in a given vineyard. The soils present in the Willamette Valley are
sedimentary, vol-canic, and loess. The history of how the soil came to be so
varied is as complex as the grapes that grow from it.
Flooding during the end of
the last ice age formed the Willamette Valley and left behind a com-plex series
of soils with unique characteristics. A repeatedly melting glacial dam led to
Missoula flood deposits that were brought down the Columbia Gorge and
eventually became the Valley’s floor soil.
The flooding from the
Pacific Ocean brought marine sediments, creating the soil that produces
voluptuous blue and black fruit with rich aromatics, denser tannins and earth
tones.
Basalts originated due to
lava flows from eastern Oregon, which gave rise to the volcanic hills in the
Valley. Here, one finds grapes that produce red-fruited wines with soft
tannins, a noteworthy acidity and spicy aromatics.
Silt blown up from the
Valley onto the northeast side of the Willamette Valley produced wind-blown
loess. This soil tends to produce a darker flavor with grapes that have a round
tannin structure and mixed berry aromas with undertones of exotic spices and
briar patches.
A Vast Portfolio of Vineyards
This year, Fullerton is
working with a dozen vineyards nestled among the AVAs that spawn the entire
Willamette Valley wine region. These AVAs and their corresponding vineyards
include:
• Willamette Valley
(Apolloni Vineyard, Bennett Vineyard, Croft Vineyards)
This vast portfolio of
vineyards are selected based on the Fullerton family connections. The net-work
allows Alex to pinpoint the exact plots of land that will work best for
producing particular types of wine. “This selection process preserves the heart
and soul of the individual vineyards so they can all speak for themselves,” he
said.
According to Alex, this
diversity allows him to blend with consistency, as he has a vast palette of
grapes at his disposal that he can use to craft specific wines. Furthermore, by
having vines scat-tered throughout the Willamette Valley, Fullerton Wines can
still harvest grapes should one re-gion experienced a severe weather crisis
such as drought or fire.
Still, Alex admits it can
be draining to run around sampling the vines. He decides when it’s time to
harvest a particular vineyard based primarily on his taste assessment. A
refractometer helps him assess the sugar and when to mash the grapes. Then he
titrates the wine and uses a spec-trometer to evaluate the enzymes.
Less is More
Zoning restrictions and
the desire for a modernized facility led the family to move the winery to
Corvallis, Oregon. Here Alex puts his “less is more” belief into practice. For
example, the reality that wine can be made naturally with the aid of wild
yeast, combined with Alex’s years of tasting hundreds of inoculated and
spontaneous fermentations, led to his preference for spontaneous fermentations.
He eschews fining, which results in producing vegan-friendly wines. Also, only
select wines will receive cross-flow filtration once testing proves they will
benefit from the pro-cess.
Fullerton’s Single
Vineyard and Reserve wines point to those selections that Alex believes come
from the best barrels from their premier vineyard sites. Each bottle represents
the unique condi-tions of that particular vineyard, and are marketed towards
the serious wine connoisseur.
Their Five FACES label, an
acronym for the five Fullerton family members—Filip, Alex, Caro-line, Eric and
Susanne—was created to make a true Willamette Valley blend. Five FACES Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay blend fruit from both volcanic, basalt-based soils and
sedimentary, sand-stone-based soils. The complexity of this wine is due to
their restrained use of aging in new French oak.
Five FACES Pinot Noir
tends to be on the lighter side, with refined tannins and high but
well-integrated acidity. Notes of spice, smoke, and wet earth speak to the
mixed berry aromas and fla-vors like fresh marionberry, strawberry, and cherry.
Five FACES Chardonnay
speaks to the growing acceptance of white wine grapes in the Willamette Valley.
This wine has a medium-plus body with an elegant tension between acidity and
texture. Underneath the intense aromas of apple, pear, brioche and citrus, is a
sense of min-erality and spice notes.
In 2014, Fullerton
launched its Three Otters line with the intention of offering an intriguing
value wine. The line is geared towards the broader market by appealing to
consumers who are seeking a quality wine in the $15-$25 range. The label honors
the family’s Northern European heritage, as three otters have rested
prominently on the Fullerton family crest since the 13th century. This label
also highlights the playful nature of this approachable, lighter and easier
drinking wine.
In addition to Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay, the Three Otters line includes Pinot Noir Rosé and Pinot Gris.
The rosé was crafted as the result of a friendly competition between Alex and
his fa-ther, Eric. It has soft floral undertones and a light, breezy structure
with notes of watermelon, strawberry and citrus. Even though Alex admits that
Pinot Gris can be a “boring wine,” he want-ed to add one to the Three Otters
line because he had a unique chance to work with some fifty-year-old Pinot Gris
vines.
While the winery is not open to the public,
visitors who take a trip to Fullerton’s wine bar and tasting room in Northwest
Portland can take a mini-tour through the range of wines produced by the entire
Willamette Valley. That way, they can sit and savor without spending the day
navi-gating traffic.
Concern about threats
related to climate change is inspiring more consumers to make lifestyle changes
like going vegan, upgrading to electric cars, reducing plastic waste and
seeking more environmentally sustainable products. It’s also starting to affect
how consumers select their wine.
Surveys of wine consumers
in Canada, the U.S., Sweden and the UK are indicating a growing interest in
purchasing sustainably produced wine, favorable perceptions of sustainable
certifi-cation programs and certification logos, and a willingness to pay more
for sustainably pro-duced wine—particularly by Millennials and Gen Z.
For many Canadian
winemakers, however, their interest in sustainable winemaking began well before
consumers started paying attention.
According to veteran British Columbia winemaker Gordon Fitzpatrick, adopting environmentally sustainable practices isn’t just the right thing to do—it also makes good business sense. “Often, sustainable choices have economic benefits. It’s not mutually exclusive,” Fitzpatrick said. “Every little bit helps.”
Fitzpatrick has been in
the wine business since 1986 when he founded Cedar Creek Estate Winery. He sold
the majority of his vineyards to Mission Hill five years ago, but kept one
be-tween Peachland and Summerland. In 2017, he launched a new label,
Fitzpatrick Family Win-ery, using those grapes.
The boutique winery
focuses on sparkling wine and has approximately one-fifth of the produc-tion
capacity of Cedar Creek, topping out at about 10,000 cases at full production.
The shift into sparkling wine was a strategic choice to take advantage of the
vineyard’s unique microcli-mate.
“We lose the sun about two
and a half hours earlier than most other vineyards,” Fitzpatrick said. “That’s
why we specialize in sparkling wine. It creates that natural crisp acidity. I
call it shade’s gift.”
Fitzpatrick Family Winery
is located in the Thompson Okanagan region, British Columbia’s pri-mary
wine-growing region. The area boasts 84% of the province’s vineyards by acreage
and has over 200 wineries. Wine tours are a big draw for visitors to the
region. With the local tour-ism association increasingly spotlighting
sustainable tourism, wineries like Fitzpatrick’s are get-ting more recognition
for their environmentally friendly choices.
The Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association recently developed a sustainability pledge to identify and feature responsible tourism providers in the region, including Fitzpatrick Family Winery. Other wineries who have signed on to the program include Poplar Grove (https://www.poplargrove.ca/), Grizzli Winery (www.grizzliwinery.com) and Meadowvista (www.meadowvista.ca).
The region was also officially certified as the first destination in the Americas to achieve the Sustainable Tourism Accreditation from Biosphere International and the Responsible Tourism Institute. The certification criteria includes commitments to environmentally sustainable practices, including ensuring access to sustainable energy and adopting measures to mitigate cli-mate change.
Fitzpatrick Family Winery was a pilot winery for the program last fall, Fitzpatrick said, which included a thorough audit on water, energy and waste management practices.
“We think of ourselves as
good stewards of the land, but you always want to look at how you’re doing
things. They came up with some recommendations on how we can do things even
better than we currently are [doing them]. It was a very worthwhile process to
go through,” he said.
Recommendations ranged
from replacing big-ticket items like a 25-year-old water pump with a newer,
more energy-efficient model, to less costly initiatives like installing flow
meters to better monitor water usage, and expanding the winery’s compost program
to incorporate food waste from the on-site, seasonal restaurant.
The winery is also now
pursuing organic certification, following a recent $40,000 investment in
mechanical weeding equipment that will allow Fitzpatrick to stop using
herbicides in the spring.
In the last five years,
Fitzpatrick said consumer awareness of sustainable practices has changed
significantly. “People are much more aware and want to know what your practices
are, and are you being a good steward of the land,” he said. “it’s nice to be
able to stand be-hind what we do.”
Do Wine Consumers Care? Researchers Say Yes
According to market
research by Wine Intelligence, it’s not just hippies who are choosing more
socially and environmentally conscious purchases. Interest in organic, fair
trade and sustaina-bly produced wine is growing and is now considered
mainstream, particularly among consum-ers under the age of 45.
In the U.S., almost
three-quarters of consumers surveyed said they would consider buying
sus-tainably produced wine in the future. Seventy percent of Canadians agreed.
Nine out of ten millennial
consumers surveyed said they would be willing to pay an average of $3 more for
sustainably produced wine. The research found that sustainability
certifications for wine improved consumers’ willingness to buy.
The research was presented
at the first U.S. Sustainable Winegrowing Summit in Sonoma last June. In a
speech at the event, Wine Intelligence CEO Lulie Halstead outlined five key
concepts to “sell” sustainability to
consumers, highlighting how it’s good for people as well as for the
environment:
1. Focus on the small steps
producers and consumers can take today.
2. Frame sustainability as a
positive choice: talk about positive benefits.
3. Use groupthink for good:
invite customers to be part of a larger movement to make greener choices.
4. Appeal to feelings, not
facts: logic is not as persuasive as emotion.
5. Be brief: keep messaging
succinct.
The second edition of the
U.S. Sustainable Winegrowing Summit will be held this year on May 5-6 in Long
Island, New York. The event will feature tours of sustainable wineries in the
area, as well as a full conference program. Tickets are $50. More details are
online at https://www.sustainablewinegrowing.org/summit/.
British Columbia to Host Global Sustainable Tourism Conference
The Thompson-Okanagan
region is also hosting the 2020 Global Sustainable Tourism Confer-ence November
19-22—the first time the annual event will be held in Canada—at the Delta
Ho-tels by Marriott Grand Okanagan Resort in Kelowna.
The event will feature
expert speakers and panelists from around the world. Over 500 local, national
and international delegates are expected to attend, including destination
marketing professionals, airlines, travel agents, international media and
tourism-oriented business lead-ers.
According to President and
CEO of Tourism Kelowna, Lisanne Ballantyne, industry research indicates that
interest in sustainable tourism destinations is growing. She said recent
reports have found 87% of consumers want to travel sustainably, and 67% are
willing to pay more for travel that has a less negative impact on the
environment.
In 2019, for the second
year in a row, TOTA was named the World Responsible Tourism Award Winner at the
Annual World Travel Awards.
According to British
Columbia’s Minister of Tourism, Arts and Culture, Lisa Beare, the prov-ince’s
stunning scenery and unspoiled wilderness is a key draw for visitors from
around the globe, and the region’s tourism strategy reflects that.
“Our strategic framework
for tourism seeks to responsibly grow the visitor economy by re-specting nature
and the environment, and making sure that everyone sees the benefits of this
important industry,” Beare said in a press release about TOTA’s award win.
I can’t count the number
of times I’ve heard people say, “I don’t like Ontario wine.” It’s a statement I
constantly hear, especially in the Niagara region, where a lot of wine lists
focus on local producers. Every time I hear this sentiment, I’m a little appalled.
It’s like saying you don’t like Chardonnay. Maybe you just haven’t found the
right Chardonnay for you. So, this year, when I attended my very posh friend’s
annual holiday wine tasting party, I brought along a nice, moderately priced
bottle of Ontario wine to add to the mix of thirty bottles we were blind
tasting. The premise: each person brings a bottle of wine and, throughout the
night, tries each one and chooses their favorite. The winner was chosen based
on everyone’s overall rating. Simple. The prize: a $200 bottle of Gamble Mary
Ann, a Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend. I quietly uncorked my bottle of wine from
Ontario’s Ridgepoint Wines and waited for the night to unfold.
Currently, Ontario is
cursed with the same stigma that California received in the 1970s before the
Judgement of Paris. No one seems to believe Ontario vintners are capable of
producing great wine. Forty years later, California is one of the leading
producers in the world and seen as a premier destination. However, Ontario
winemakers are still fighting to make a name for themselves in the
international market, despite having been producing wine for decades. Several
factors influence this: the lack of knowledge when it comes to the Ontario wine
region, the stereotypes associated with Ontario wine, and the need for better
distribution of wine from within the province.
Winemaking in Ontario
dates back to 1811 when German native, Johann Schiller planted
Pennsylvania-native Labrusca grapevines in Cooksville, Ontario. The first
winery in the province opened its doors in 1866 on Pelee Island and Niagara’s
first winery, the Ontario Grape Growing and Manufacturing Company, followed
shortly after in 1873. These early days of winemaking in Ontario saw over
thirty new wineries open for business by the late 1800s. Unfortunately, by the
time prohibition was repealed in 1927, this number had fallen from 61 to six.
At this same time, the government created the Liquor Control Board of Ontario
to control the sale, transportation and delivery of alcoholic beverages in the
province. Eighty-six LCBO stores opened by the end of that year, and liquor
permits were issued at $2 each to enable individuals to purchase alcohol. At
this point, the rules and regulations surrounding the production and sale of
wine did not allow for new wineries to open.
It wasn’t until the early
1970s that winegrowers started to take the first steps to revitalize the
Ontario wine industry. In 1974, Inniskillin Winery became the first new Ontario
winery to open its doors since 1916. They opened the gates for a slew of other
wineries to follow, and, by 2005, a total of 75 new wineries had opened up in
the region. In 1988, the Vintner’s Quality Assurance laid out the specific
geographic guidelines for the winemaking appellations of Ontario and set strict
production standards on wine throughout the province.
Today, there are three VQA
wine appellations in Ontario: Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula and
Prince Edward County. Within the Niagara peninsula, there are two regional
appellations: Niagara-on-the-Lake and the Niagara Escarpment. These regional
appellations are then broken down further into 10 sub-appellations based on
their unique geographical conditions. Each sub-appellation has different
geology, soil, elevation and variation in temperatures and precipitation. There
is such diverse terroir in this 13,600 acres of land that they can produce
everything from delicate Rieslings to bold and tannic Petit Verdot. The Niagara
Peninsula currently boasts over 46 different grape varietals. Riesling,
Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir particularly flourish
here.
When people think of
Canada, they don’t naturally think of wine. They think, “The Great White
North,” hockey and snow. The reality is, the Ontario landscape is so vast and
varied that it allows for the production of a lot more than just icewine. The
Great Lakes border the southern part of the province. Most vineyards are
planted along the perimeter of Lake Ontario, an enormous body of water that moderates
the typically colder winter temperatures of the area. Moderate temps also make
for a longer growing season. Harvest of most grapes doesn’t start until late
September, with the late-ripening grapes being picked still well into November.
Everything from Malbec to Nebbiolo can be grown. Ontario may have cold winters,
but the summertime temperatures reach Mediterranean levels of 95 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Ontario also has
elevation. The Niagara Escarpment stands 177 meters tall and runs through the
entire Niagara Escarpment appellation. The enormous cliff formation faces north
and, combined with the moderating effect of Lake Ontario, creates the perfect
micro-climate for nurturing a diverse variety of grapes. The escarpment
shelters the vineyards from prevailing southwest winds and traps warm lake air
from the north, allowing for later bud bursts and less risk of frost in the
spring, as well as extended growing seasons in the fall. Hot days followed by
cold nights allow grapes to retain their acidity while fully ripening, making
for exceptionally well balanced, food-friendly wine. The streams that run
through the escarpment provide drainage during the spring melt and provide an
excellent source of groundwater during the dry summer months.
The soil in the Niagara
Escarpment is rich and complex. UNESCO recognizes the region as a World
Biosphere Reserve due to the regional appellation’s fossil-rich sedimentary
soils, not unlike Burgundy and Loire Valley. The Beamsville Bench
sub-appellation has some of the most sought after vineyard land because it’s
home to fossil-enriched dolomites. High in calcium-magnesium, the dolomites
give the wines of Beamsville Bench a distinct minerality, similar to a Chablis.
Beautiful Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris are being produced here with notes of
slate and wet stone, complemented by fresh pear and crisp green apples.
Just a few kilometers from
the Beamsville Bench, you find yourself in the Twenty Mile Bench with a terroir
comprised predominantly of limestone and shale. These soils provide excellent
water holding capacities during the growing season. Combined with the numerous
streams that dissect the escarpment and provide drainage in the spring, Twenty
Mile Bench is a highly regarded VQA sub-appellation. Here you will see producers
focusing primarily on Burgundian style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. These
beautiful cool climate wines are a breath of fresh air after an onslaught of
overripe and overproduced New World wines the market has been seeing over the
recent years.
Directly next to Twenty
Mile Bench, nestled between the escarpment and Lake Ontario, the Lincoln
Lakeshore appellation has one of the longest and warmest growing seasons in the
region. The scarp acts as a shield from heavy winds, and the lake provides insulation
against cold temperatures and traps moisture during hot, dry summers. The most
notable characteristic of Lincoln Lakeshore, though, is its terroir. The soil
within this appellation is extremely varied. Fifty-five percent of the area is
covered in light sand, but you will also find pockets of deep red clay loam and
alluvial deposits from the ancient lake that once existed here. Cabernet Franc
seems to flourish in these areas in a very classic expression of the varietal.
Big tannin, bold black fruit and a hint of crisp green pepper are typical in
these wines.
Meanwhile, along the sunny
banks of the Niagara Lakeshore appellation, light, sandy soils allow for
deep-rooted vines and later ripening grapes. Here, you will find notably
fuller-bodied wines with potential for maturing: big Bordeaux style blends with
bold black fruits and ripe tannin. They are even growing Petit Verdot and
Tannat in this appellation. The simple geography and proximity to the lake and
Four Mile Creek ensure warm temperatures and lots of sunlight year-round. In
other words, when it comes to wine in Ontario, there’s the opportunity to
produce just about anything.
The issue is you won’t
necessarily find the best Ontario wines in the local liquor store. Ontario
vintners can’t even get most of them on the shelves in their own LCBO stores.
The process of getting wine in the hands of consumers is not an easy one in
Ontario.
Most Ontario wineries are
opting for small-batch wines that are only available in the winery tasting
rooms. Recently, “virtual wineries” have started popping up with no physical
storefront, just a product packaged under a winery name—similar to the Old
World French tradition of “negociants.”
The best way to find the
best Ontario wine? Come to Ontario. Let the locals tell you where to go. It
won’t necessarily be the big names like Wayne Gretzky or Jackson-Triggs. Some
of the best wineries are literally inside the winemaker’s house, and they’re
all too happy to have you.
Since moving to the region, I have had the pleasure of discovering numerous wine producers who are doing remarkable things. Ridgepoint Wines, located in the Twenty Mile Bench, is one of the wineries that impressed me. At Ridgepoint, they are producing everything from appassimento-style Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to single varietal Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. The wine that I brought to the holiday tasting party was a 2012 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Ripasso-style Aglianico. Amongst the juicy California Cabs and concentrated Amarones on the table, it was a delightful respite.
Tasting thirty wines in one night is no easy feat. Your palate can only handle so many Barolos in one evening. What my wine offered was a beautiful variation from the others, starting with a complex nose of cherry and cassis, toast and cedar. The refreshingly bright acidity stood out amongst the other wines, and the body, tannin and alcohol still held up against all of the heavy hitters. The palate showed lots of plush fruit balanced with oak and developing notes of leather and tobacco that lingered on the palate in a long, complex finish. The crowd didn’t know what hit them.
At the end of the night, I put on my jacket and packed up my newly acquired bottle of Gamble Mary Ann with a smug grin on my face. I proved to myself, and the others at the party, that Ontario has something to offer the world of wine. Ontario wine is not just good—it’s great.
Last fall, the state of
Texas began the process of auditing all of their direct-to-consumer (DtC) wine
shipping licensees, the biggest such audit in the history of this market.
While all states reserve
the right to audit their licensees, the scope of this mass audit surprised
many. More than 1,600 wineries possess permits to ship directly to Texas
customers. Many have already received a notice from the Texas Alcoholic
Beverage Commission (TABC) requesting to review their records. This
time-consuming process began in September 2019, when the first round of notices
were sent, and will continue as the TABC reviews all permit holders to ensure
they are in compliance with the state’s laws.
At the heart of this
heightened regulatory scrutiny by Texas is the dramatic rise in popularity of
the DtC channel in recent years. Many wine drinkers have come to appreciate the
DtC wine shipping market for bringing a direct connection to their favorite
brands and greater access to wine clubs and highly-allocated labels, creating a
$3 billion national market.
The beverage alcohol
industry has long been one of the most regulated enterprises in the country, so
it is little surprise that this increased scrutiny has come to the DtC wine
shipping channel. States have a vested interest in making sure they collect the
full balance of tax money they are due and that their laws are followed to the letter.
As Texas’s audits proceed, they could well represent a harbinger of what’s to
come for DtC wine shippers, making it important to understand how and why
regulators are examining this market.
Even the Audits Are
Bigger in Texas
In May 2005, Texas Governor
Rick Perry signed into law Senate Bill 877, a transformative reform of the
state’s Alcoholic Beverage Code that smashed open the door for wineries to ship
directly to consumers in the state. Since then, wine enthusiasts in Texas have
been able to purchase wine directly from out-of-state wineries, provided those
wineries obtain the necessary sales tax and Winery Direct Shipper’s permits.
The state’s timing was
no coincidence. Just one week after Gov. Perry signed the new bill into law,
the Supreme Court held in Granholm v. Heald that the states’ ability to
control their internal alcohol markets under the 21st Amendment did not
supersede the general prohibition on discriminating against out-of-state
interests under the Commerce Clause.
Under the decision,
states could no longer prohibit direct-to-consumer wine shipping if they
allowed in-state shipping. In the years following Granholm, a wave of reforms
flowed across the country. But Texas was one of the first to update its wine
shipping laws. And today, the state lives up to its outsized reputation by
being the second-biggest recipient state for direct-to-consumer wine shipping, according to Sovos ShipCompliant data.
So what are Texas
regulators seeking to achieve with this wave of audits? The goal appears to be
ensuring wine shippers are properly licensed, paying excise taxes, reporting
shipments, and not exceeding limits on how much they can send to individual
Texans. The TABC has asked licensees for the sales data used to produce their
Texas Excise Tax returns, including requests for copies of certain invoices
In addition to order
data and invoice copies, the TABC has requested information regarding
licensees’ business structures, including copies of their state and federal
permits, and lists of corporate officers and directors. Contracts or other
agreements that licensees have made with fulfillment houses and similar service
providers have also been sought.
Finally, the TABC is
looking into the specific wines that licensees have shipped to Texas consumers.
Texas’s DtC statutes prohibit licensees from selling wines that the licensee
does not personally produce or bottle. As such, the TABC has requested
licensees provide Certificates of Label Approval (COLAs) and production records
for wines shipped to Texas consumers.
These past requests,
though, are subject to change at any time and any DtC wine shipper that does
receive an audit notice should ensure they comply with the specific requests on
their notice.
This heightened review by the state of Texas comes at a time when
many states are working to ensure that direct-to-consumer shippers are
complying with local regulations. For example, the Michigan Liquor Control Commission
is stepping up in response to reports by the Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers
Association alleging widespread violation of its DtC shipping laws, and the
Mississippi Supreme Court recently heard a case regarding stings conducted by
the state Alcohol Control Board to catch illegal DtC shippers.
While Texas is currently the only state to have announced a review
of this size, it almost certainly won’t be the last.
As the Market Grows, So
Will Regulator Scrutiny
The Supreme Court’s
decision 15 years ago in Granholm v. Heald triggered a wave of wine
shipping reforms across the country. Today, 45 states plus the District of
Columbia permit DtC shipping, enabling over 90% of Americans to connect
directly with their favorite wineries.
As a result, direct-to-consumer wine shipping has grown from a
small, niche market in 2005 into a hugely important channel worth more than
$3.2 billion in 2019. According to Sovos ShipCompliant’s annual
Direct-to-Consumer Wine Shipping Report, the channel grew by 7.4% percent
in value and 4.7% in volume last year as more wineries invested in e-commerce,
the average price-per-bottle increased, and Oregon and Washington again
outpaced the overall channel in shipment growth, among other trends.
In many cases, DtC
shipping succeeds because it allows smaller wineries access to markets they
would struggle to enter if they relied solely on the traditional three-tier
system due to their relative size. According to the 2020 Direct-to-Consumer Shipping Report, wineries in the small winery category (5,000
to 49,999 annual case production) again dominated the winery shipping channel
in 2019, accounting for 42% of the volume of shipments and 45% of the value of
the DtC channel. DTC shipping has emerged as one of the best ways for these
smaller producers to reach a national audience.
This growth also reflects
consumer demand across the economy for goods delivered directly to their
doorsteps. Apps like Instacart and UberEats have democratized delivery, and
consumer expectations for quick and convenient delivery have never been higher.
This presents a tremendous opportunity for wine sellers to expand their reach,
develop their customer base and increase their sales online.
The marketplace is also
likely to get more competitive in the new decade. In 2019, the Supreme Court
paved a path for expanded DtC shipping of wine by retailers in its ruling in Tennessee Wine & Spirits Retailers
Association v. Thomas. While only 15 states
currently allow some DtC wine shipping by out-of-state retailers, many see this
decision as an opportunity to challenge old laws to expand this market.
Litigation is ongoing in several states that seemingly discriminate against
out-of-state retailers in regards to their ability to ship wine DtC – notably
Illinois, Michigan, and Missouri. Much in the same way that Granholm
prompted a wave of statutory reform, observers expect consumers and advocates
to push legislative changes across the country. While it may take a number of
years for these changes to take effect, expanded retail shipping is something
everyone should be watching closely.
In the meantime, regulators have a vested interest in making sure
all sellers—whether package stores, direct wine shippers or otherwise—are in
compliance with the law. That means ensuring they are properly licensed,
collecting all applicable taxes, not overselling to individuals and preventing
sales to minors. So if other states see the Texas audits bring positive
results, they are likely to follow suit to uncover gaps in their own systems.
Overall, the DtC wine shipping market is still young and
regulators are still figuring out how to manage it. As the market grows, we can
expect this trend of closer attention being paid to DtC shipping to continue at
the state levels, making now the best time for wine producers to firm up their
direct-to-consumer compliance processes and overall channel strategy.
Now Is the Time to
Ensure Compliance
The risk of audits like those in Texas underscores the importance
of closely adhering to the various laws and reporting requirements imposed by
states. That the regulations can vary among states only adds to the complexity,
whereas failure to comply may result in fines, loss of home state or federal
licenses, and even possible criminal charges.
Wineries have a number of ways to handle this. Some are able to
build in-house teams that can manage compliance, though this can be expensive.
Others rely on outside consultants to manage their compliance needs. But of
course, automating compliance processes is the easiest way to ensure audit
success, limit compliance risk and reduce the overall administrative burden on
shippers as state-by-state tax rules, rates and forms change.
Shipping wine can be complicated, and compliance will never be a task that anyone relishes. However, as the direct-to-consumer channel grows in its importance to the industry, it’s vital that producers shore up their compliance strategy now before the next round of state audit notices goes out.
About the Author: Alex Koral, Senior Regulatory Counsel with Sovos
Alex Koral is senior regulatory counsel for Sovos ShipCompliant. He actively researches beverage alcohol regulations and market developments in order to inform development of Sovos’ ShipCompliant product and help educate the industry on compliance issues. Alex has worked with the company since 2015, after receiving his J.D. from the University of Colorado Law School.