By: Becky Garrison
Pét-nat is short for pétillant-naturel, which means “naturally sparkling” in French. It refers to sparkling wines that complete fermentation in the bottle. Patrick Rawn, Vineyard Operations for Two Mountain Winery (Zillah, WA) describes the process in producing pét-nat versus sparkling wines made using the traditional method (also known as méthode traditionnelle or méthode champenoise). “Unlike traditional sparkling wine production where you bottle the base wine with a bit of additional juice for a secondary fermentation in the bottle, pét-nat is bottled partway through the primary fermentation process.”
Brian Rudin, Winemaker / General Manager at Echolands Winery (Walla Walla, WA) describes pét-nat as a fun diversion from the traditional architecture of “champagne-methode” due to its lighter carbonation and more creative license on style, along with an embrace of the “farmhouse” aesthetic. “While there is huge diversity in styles across pét-nats, what they share in common is divergence from the mold cast in champagne – they can be delightfully sparkling and full of personality without pretense or adherence to an established style. It is an enclave of avant-garde winemaking, for sure.”
Matt Austin, Owner/Winemaker at Grosgrain Vineyards (Walla Walla, WA), concurs, adding that “with less control over the winemaking process, they can be a bit wild compared to other styles of sparkling wine, but therein lies the charm.” As a wine producer who works in a low-intervention style in general, Austin likes that pét-nat can be made with very little or no additives involved in the winemaking process. “While this can be more challenging than the production of other methods, the reward is a product that is more unique, and that fully expresses our terroir.”
Jay Anderson along with his sister Lisa established Foundry Vineyards + Pét Project in Walla Walla, WA with the intention of focusing solely on pét-nats. According to Anderson, Winemaker and Creative Director, “Pét-nats can vary widely depending on the grape variety and the winemaker’s approach—they can be clean or a little cloudy, fresh and juicy or more rustic and wild. Overall, you can expect a pét-nat to be a unique, energetic, and lively sparkling wine.”
At Foundry Vineyards + Pét Project, Anderson makes several styles that highlight different grape varieties and vineyard sites. These include the fresh, acid-forward Sunlight Cuvée (Chenin Blanc & Chardonnay), the aromatic Orange Cuvée (Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Muscat Ottonel), a savory red pét-nat made from Syrah, and our Perpetual Cuvée (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay), which is a multi-vintage pét-nat inspired by grower Champagnes and solera systems or aging. Their pét nats are sealed with a crown cap, which is common for the style, and reflects the fun, casual nature of these wines, which need not be reserved for celebratory moments like Champagne often is. These don’t require long aging and are best enjoyed in their vibrant youth. These are great apertif wines, but are also quite versatile for food pairing due to the freshness, acidity, and low alcohol levels. While many pét-nats contain yeast in the bottle they riddle and disgorge to remove the yeast and produce a more approachable style.
In crafting his pét-nats, Rudin relishes the opportunity to rethink the creative process to make something fun and unexpected in a world filled with boring cliches. “You can use any variety, make it any style, and make a completely irreverent wine, as long as it tastes great and delivers joy,” he opines.
Also, pét-nats afford Rudin the opportunity to embrace the uncontrollable side of winemaking.
While winemakers normally want to control the process, with pét-nat, you are decidedly never in control. So you relinquish your ability to make clear, polished wines in favor of letting nature take its course inside each bottle. And the result is that each bottle is slightly different, but all bubbling forth with personality and unrestrained expression. No filtration, no cold or heat stability, no guarantee on final residual sugar or bottle pressure. You just have the natural fermentation processes inside each bottle determining how each will taste. If you get the base wine right, you’ll end up with thousands of fun bottles of fizz that are each a little different, in a charming way..
Challenges of Producing Pét-nats
In Rudin’s estimation, the biggest challenge is bottling the wine during harvest, as it is approaching dryness in tank. “You want to bottle it somewhere between 1.2% and 2.0% residual sugar, so that it ferments to the right bottle pressure (half to two-thirds of traditional method Champagne) and so you need to be able to do it right away once it reaches that point.” As he notes, since this happens during the busiest time of year: the second month of harvest, it becomes a labor of love.
The second challenge is the need to disgorge the bottles by hand. With traditional method champagne, disgorgement can be automated since there is very little bottle variation. But with Pét-nat, bottle variation is the norm, so it can be disgorged better by getting human eyes and hands on each bottle, and doing it by feel. Since this process takes a long time, Rudin assembles a big crew and makes a week of it, dusting off their best stories and jokes for the long days.
Austin adds that with the traditional method of sparkling wine production, you add a precise amount of sugar to determine the amount of pressure in the bottle, whereas with pét nat you have to bottle at the stage of the initial fermentation where there is the desired level of sugar remaining in the grape must. In addition, they can’t stabilize the wine with fining and filtration as is done with most other styles, so great care is needed to produce a wine that will not gush when opened. Also, the lack of protective sulfites requires great care with winery sanitation to avoid producing a wine with overt flaws.
Marketing and Educating Consumers About Pét-Nat
Anderson markets their wine through the Foundry Vineyards’ tasting room, retail and restaurant placements, along with educational content on their website and Instagram. Press coverage and storytelling help introduce pét-nat to new audiences. Also, they traveled to France to participate in a pét-nat-only wine fair, thus deepening their connection to the global pét-nat community.
At Ecolands Winery, they release their pét-nat made from a rose of Cabernet Franc on Bastille Day every year in the middle of July. This release ensures that people can have some cold ones on hand for the hot summer months. Most of it is sold right at the winery, so they can give a little explanation for the uninitiated.
Since Two Mountain Winery has no aspirations to be a sparkling wine house, pét-nat enables them to play around without purchasing the specialized equipment needed to produce a traditional sparkling wine. Hence, they can experiment on a small scale by making a couple of pallets that they sell direct to consumer. They feature their pét-nats at wine club events while holding some back for holidays like New Years when people are in a sparkling wine mood.
In Grosgrain Vineyard’s tasting room, the preface these wines with a discussion of how they are produced and why they are different from Champagne or Prosecco. Austin finds that customers across the spectrum enjoy learning about pét nat, adding that these wines tend to be amongst their fastest sellers.
As consumers are becoming more aware of the additives that are used in the production of the food and beverages that they consume, Austin thinks they would likely be surprised at the long list of unappetizing products that go into some mass-produced wines. Hence the appeal of pét-nat wines since they can be made with one ingredient: grapes, and preferably ones that are organically grown.