Category: International

A Note on Federal & State(s) Tied House Distinctions

Cyndi

Tied house evil is a concept that most alcohol beverage industry stakeholders are aware of. 

a man sitting in front of his laptop computer on his cell phone

By Brad Berkman & Louis J. Terminello of Greenspoon Marder LLP

For the beverage marketer, operating within its confines is virtually mandated to avoid regulatory scrutiny and potential administrative action by state and federal regulatory authorities. Most marketers do indeed adhere to general tied house restrictions when developing and executing programs. However, it is also likely that the distinction between federal and state tied house laws is overlooked. The purpose of this article is to instruct the reader on the distinctions between the two to avoid potential missteps that may lead to regulatory adversity. An effective way to conduct this analysis is to examine select statutory and code provisions.

A General View of State Tied House Evil

  Using Florida law as an example, Florida Statue §561.42 is the state’s tied house statute. In part, the statute states:

561.42 Tied house evil; financial aid and assistance to vendor by manufacturer, distributor, importer, primary American source of supply, brand owner or registrant, or any broker, sales agent, or sales person thereof, prohibited; procedure for enforcement; exception.—

(1) No manufacturer, distributor, importer, primary American source of supply, or brand owner or registrant of any of the beverages herein referred to, whether licensed or operating in this state or out-of-state, nor any broker, sales agent, or sales person thereof, shall have any financial interest, directly or indirectly, in the establishment or business of any vendor licensed under the Beverage Law; nor shall such manufacturer, distributor, importer, primary American source of supply, brand owner or brand registrant, or any broker, sales agent, or sales person thereof, assist any vendor by any gifts or loans of money or property of any description or by the giving of any rebates of any kind whatsoever. No licensed vendor shall accept, directly or indirectly, any gift or loan of money or property of any description or any rebates from any such manufacturer, distributor, importer, primary American source of supply, brand owner or brand registrant, or any broker, sales agent, or sales person thereof;

  Florida’s tied house evil essentially prohibits upper-tier industry members from having a direct or indirect financial interest in a vendor of alcoholic beverages. They shall also not assist any vendor by any gifts or loans of money or property of any description or by the giving of any rebates of any kind whatsoever (unless there is a stated exception in the law).

  By comparison, below is a partial reprint of the Texas tied house evil statue. Even a quick reading shows similarities with Florida law.

Sec. 102.07.  PROHIBITED DEALINGS WITH RETAILER OR CONSUMER.  (a)  Except as provided in Subsections (b), (d), and (g), a person who owns or has an interest in the business of a distiller, rectifier, wholesaler, class B wholesaler, or winery, or the agent, servant, or employee of such a person, may not:

(1)   own or have a direct or indirect interest in the business, premises, equipment, or fixtures of a retailer;

(2)   furnish, give, or lend any money, service, or thing of value to a retailer;

(3)   guarantee a financial obligation of a retailer;

(4)  make or offer to enter an agreement, condition, or system which will, in effect, amount to the shipment and delivery of alcoholic beverages on consignment;

(5)   furnish, give, rent, lend, or sell to a retail dealer any equipment, fixtures, or supplies to be used in selling or dispensing alcoholic beverages, except that alcoholic beverages may be packaged in combination with other items if the package is designed to be delivered intact to the ultimate consumer and the additional items have no value or benefit to the retailer other than that of having the potential of attracting purchases and promoting sales;

(6)  pay or make an allowance to a retailer for a special advertising or distribution service;

(7)   allow an excessive discount to a retailer; or

(8)  offer a prize, premium, gift, or similar inducement to a retailer or to the agent, servant, or employee of a retailer.

  The essential takeaway is that, generally, state-level tied house statutes essentially contain similar prohibitions, including:

•Direct or indirect interest by an upper tier industry member in a vendor

•The upper tier industry member provides money or things of value to a vendor.

Federal Tied House by Comparison

At the federal level, alcohol beverage law regulations can be found in Title 27 Chapter 1 of the Code of Federal Regulations (C.F.R.), and federal tied house regulations can be found in Part 6.1 through 6.153 of that section.

Interestingly, certain parts of federal tied house prohibitions resemble those of the states, as illustrated in the following section of the C.F.R.:

§ 6.21 Application.

Except as provided in subpart D, it is unlawful for any industry member to induce, directly or indirectly, any retailer to purchase any products from the industry member to the exclusion, in whole or in part, of such products sold or offered for sale by other persons in interstate or foreign commerce by any of the following means:

(a) By acquiring or holding (after the expiration of any license held at the time the FAA Act was enacted) any interest in any license with respect to the premises of the retailer;

(b) By acquiring any interest in the real or personal property owned, occupied, or used by the retailer in the conduct of their business;

(c) By furnishing, giving, renting, lending, or selling to the retailer, any equipment, fixtures, signs, supplies, money, services or other thing of value, subject to the exceptions contained in subpart D;

(d) By paying or crediting the retailer for any advertising, display, or distribution service;

(e) By guaranteeing any loan or the repayment of any financial obligation of the retailer;

(f) By extending to the retailer credit for a period in excess of the credit period usual and customary to the industry for the particular class of transactions as prescribed in § 6.65; or

(g) By requiring the retailer to take and dispose of a certain quota of any such products.

  A careful examination of the above reveals an expressed and distinct element of federal tied house. The reader should pay specific attention to the use of the term exclusion, which is further defined in § 6.151 and § 6.152:

§ 6.151 Exclusion, in general.

(a) Exclusion, in whole or in part, occurs:

(1) When a practice by an industry member, whether direct, indirect, or through an affiliate, places (or has the potential to place) retailer independence at risk by means of a tie or link between the industry member and retailer or by any other means of industry member control over the retailer; and

(2) Such practice results in the retailer purchasing less than it would have of a competitor’s product.

(b) Section 6.152 lists practices that create a tie or link that places retailer independence at risk. Section 6.153 lists the criteria used for determining whether other practices can put retailer independence at risk.

§ 6.152 Practices which put retailer independence at risk.

The practices specified in this section put retailer independence at risk. The practices specified here are examples and do not constitute a complete list of those practices that put retailer independence at risk.

(a) The act by an industry member of resetting stock on a retailer’s premises (other than stock offered for sale by the industry member).

(b) The act by an industry member of purchasing or renting display, shelf, storage or warehouse space (i.e., slotting allowance).

(c) Ownership by an industry member of less than a 100 percent interest in a retailer, where such ownership is used to influence the purchases of the retailer.

(d) The act by an industry member of requiring a retailer to purchase one alcoholic beverage product in order to be allowed to purchase another alcoholic beverage product at the same time.

  Placing retailer independence at risk is a fundamental element of the concept of exclusion. TTB investigators, when examining a case for exclusion, look for the presence of evidence of Subsection 2 § 6.151 – that is, did the industry members’ actions result in the retailer purchasing less of a competitor’s product as a result of those actions or practice. § 6.152 provides us with guidance as to practices that give rise to exclusion, but that same section states that the list is not exhaustive.

  For the alcohol beverage marketer, this presents a unique challenge. After all, the goal of both the sales and marketing teams is to increase sales through shelf or back bar presence or placement on a wine list. A natural extension of a placement of this sort is that another brand very likely will lose its spot on the aforementioned selling real estate.

  The lesson to be gleaned under federal tied house regulations is that brand builders should put practices in place that arguably feature their brands at retail and allow consumers to make the choice. Retailers will govern themselves based on consumer preference rather than on the exclusion of one brand over another, thereby putting retailer independence at risk.

  Tide house violations can take many forms and can occur both at the state and federal levels. Investigators are well versed in building and prosecuting cases of tied house violations. Though the discussion above does not address the full scope of potential violations, it is incumbent on marketers of alcohol to be aware of state and federal laws in this area and tailor their programs with the objectives of sales success and regulatory compliance.

man looking at the beautiful light of the night sky with shining stars

From Midnight Mocktails to Croatian Coasts

Cyndi

The Top Travel Trends Stealing Wine Country’s Thunder

By: Susan DeMatei – WineGlass Marketing

As travelers eagerly plan their next getaways, the tourism landscape is shifting—fast. Driven by changing values, advancing tech, and global events, how we explore the world in 2025 looks very different than it did just a few years ago. From AI-crafted itineraries to wellness retreats designed around your sleep cycle, travel today is more curated, personal, and purpose-driven than ever.

  But while adventurers chase hot springs in Iceland and food tours in Tokyo, one classic destination is quietly slipping from the spotlight: wine country. Once a top choice for weekend getaways and special occasions, winery visits are on the decline. And for the wine industry, that’s more than just a hospitality hiccup—it’s a missed opportunity to turn curious sippers into lifelong fans.

  Understanding this season’s top travel trends isn’t just about keeping up. It’s about getting ahead—and finding fresh ways to bring the modern traveler back to wine country.

Wellness, Sleep & Longevity Tourism:  Let’s start with a trend rooted in self-care: travelers aren’t just looking to escape—they’re looking to heal, reset, and optimize. Wellness tourism now includes everything from personalized health programs and silent retreats to sleep coaches and circadian lighting.

  With the wellness tourism sector growing at 12% annually and expected to hit $904 billion globally this year, destinations that cater to well-being are winning big. It’s no longer about indulgence—it’s about intentional restoration.

Opportunity for wineries: Curate wellness-focused visits with vineyard yoga, clean-eating picnics, or guided meditations among the vines. (Could vineyard-bathing become a thing?) Wellness doesn’t have to mean wine-free—it can mean wine-smarter.

Astro-Tourism & Noctourism:  As crowds surge during the day, travelers are discovering the magic of night. From stargazing in Chile’s Atacama Desert to night safaris in Kenya, nocturnal travel is lighting up itineraries.

  These after-dark adventures offer cooler temps, fewer crowds, and a new way to engage the senses.

Opportunity for wineries: Fire pits, telescope nights, full moon tastings, or glow-in-the-dark vineyard walks—use the quiet of the evening to create unforgettable, ethereal experiences.

Set-Jetting:  Fueled by binge-worthy content, set-jetting is sending travelers to places they’ve seen on screen. Whether it’s “The White Lotus” fans heading to Sicily or Game of Thrones devotees walking Dubrovnik’s walls, media is driving wanderlust.

Opportunity for wineries: Lean into your own cinematic potential. Got a picturesque view? A storybook setting? Use storytelling and content creation to become part of your visitor’s narrative—and their feed.

Calmcations:  The antidote to our overbooked, always-on lives? The calmcation. These are quiet, soul-soothing escapes where the Wi-Fi is weak and the nature is strong. Travelers are actively seeking silence, stillness, and space to breathe.

Think mountain monasteries, silent retreats, and remote lakeside cabins.

Opportunity for wineries: Create serene spaces that encourage unplugging—perhaps a “quiet hour” in the vineyard, meditative tastings, or tech-free zones for reflection.

Coolcations:  Hot is out. Cool is in. As summers become more extreme, travelers are heading north (and up) for relief—glaciers, fjords, mountaintops, and sea breezes are the new status symbols.

Opportunity for wineries: Even if you’re in sunny Texas, your cool cellar or shady hilltop might be just the refreshing escape people are craving. Embrace temperature as part of the experience.

Off-the-Beaten-Path Exploration:  Tourist-saturated hotspots are losing their appeal to curious travelers looking for authenticity. Lesser-known destinations—think Vilnius instead of Vienna—are on the rise.

  It’s all about originality, cultural depth, and avoiding the crowd.

Opportunity for wineries: Play up your location’s quirks and hidden stories. Show off your dirt roads, your family dog, your unpolished charm. Being off the radar is now a feature, not a flaw.

Multi-Generational Travel:  Grandparents, parents, and kids are traveling together more than ever, seeking shared experiences that create lasting memories across age groups.

  These trips tend to be generous—often funded by older generations—and crave versatile, everyone-friendly experiences.

Opportunity for wineries: Host family-friendly events with wine for the grownups and activities for kids. Create tasting options that pair with chocolate or juice. Inclusivity creates loyalty.

Athletic & Adventure Travel:  Vacations are no longer about lounging—they’re about movement, achievement, and transformation. Whether it’s cycling through Tuscany, hiking the Andes, or paddleboarding in the fjords, travelers are using their time off to move their bodies and push their limits.

Opportunity for wineries: Offer hiking trails, bike rentals, or vineyard tours on foot. Partner with outdoor outfitters. Show that wine and movement can go hand-in-hand.

A New Era of Visitation:  Today’s travelers aren’t just looking for destinations—they’re chasing experiences that align with their values, their identities, and their stories.

  Whether it’s mindfulness in the vineyard, stargazing with a splash of Syrah, or family bike rides that end in a shaded picnic, the future of wine tourism lies in emotional connection—not just location.

  These trends aren’t just changing how people travel—they’re changing why. And for wineries, that opens a window to reimagine what hospitality looks like.

  So the question becomes: Will you let travel trends pass you by—or pour them into a mixed cocktail of something unforgettable for your guests?

  Susan DeMatei founded WineGlass Marketing; the largest full-service, award-winning marketing firm focused on the wine industry. She is a certified Sommelier and Specialist in Wine, with degrees in Viticulture and Communications, an instructor at Napa Valley Community College, and is currently collaborating on two textbooks. Now in its 12th year, her agency offers domestic and international wineries assistance with all areas of strategy and execution. WineGlass Marketing is located in Napa, California, and can be reached at 707-927-3334 or wineglassmarketing.com.

Why U.S. Wine Labels Leave Consumers in the Dark

Cyndi
three black wine bottles with blank lables

By Greg Martellotto

As an Italian Wine Ambassador and a winemaker, I’ve had the privilege of immersing myself in the world of wine from both sides of the glass. While the complexities of terroir and the delicate art of winemaking have captivated me for years, a growing concern has emerged: the glaring lack of transparency in the U.S. wine industry. It’s a subject that not only perplexes but frustrates me as both a producer and consumer of wine.

While Americans have become increasingly conscious of the ingredients in their food and beverages, wine—a product enjoyed by millions across the country—remains shrouded in mystery. Unlike most other consumables, wine in the United States escapes the rigorous scrutiny of nutrition and ingredient labeling. This lack of transparency is not only puzzling but also problematic in an age where consumers demand to know what they’re putting into their bodies. With every other product, from packaged snacks to soft drinks, offering detailed breakdowns of ingredients and nutrition facts, the wine industry stands out as a notable exception. It’s time we ask: why is wine treated differently?

The Opaque Reality of U.S. Wine Labels

To truly understand the issue, we need to consider the labeling regulations—or lack thereof—that govern wine in the United States. Current U.S. regulations primarily focus on alcohol content, producer information, and origin, leaving out crucial details such as ingredients, additives, and nutritional information. This is in stark contrast to the global trend toward transparency, particularly in Europe, where wine labels often provide comprehensive nutritional and ingredient information.

The European Union, for example, has recently moved toward implementing mandatory ingredient and calorie labeling for wine. Consumers in the EU can expect to see labels indicating the use of preservatives, stabilizers, added sugars, and other additives. This trend is not just limited to wine but applies across the food and beverage sector, reflecting a broader consumer demand for transparency and informed choice.

In the U.S., however, wine labeling remains woefully outdated. Consumers are often unaware of the dozens of additives that could be present in their wine—ranging from sulfur dioxide, which is used as a preservative, to Mega Purple, a concentrated grape juice used to enhance color and sweetness. These additives are legal and commonly used in winemaking, yet most consumers have no idea they exist, let alone how they might affect their health.

Hidden Ingredients in Plain Sight

Wine is a natural product at its core: grapes are harvested, crushed, fermented, and aged to create the drink we love. But winemaking, especially at the industrial scale, can involve a variety of processes and additives that are far removed from the idyllic image of grapes ripening under the sun. Additives such as fining agents, preservatives, flavor enhancers, and colorants can all be used to achieve a desired taste, texture, or appearance. In some cases, additional sugar is added to adjust the sweetness of a wine, while acids might be used to alter its pH level.

One of the most glaring omissions on U.S. wine labels is the amount of sugar in the wine. While consumers are increasingly aware of sugar content in other beverages, many wines, including those marketed as “dry,” can contain significant amounts of residual and added sugars. These sugars can contribute to the flavor profile, but for consumers trying to watch their sugar intake, this lack of information can be problematic. When consumers think they are choosing a dry wine with little to no sugar, they may be unwittingly consuming sugar that has been added to balance flavors or boost sweetness.

This issue of hidden sugars is compounded by the lack of clarity about other additives. Many consumers would likely be surprised to learn that certain mass-produced wines contain additives like artificial coloring agents, flavor enhancers, and clarifying agents like egg whites or gelatin. Some of these additives can trigger allergies or intolerances, yet without ingredient labeling, consumers are left in the dark.

I had sent Napa Cabernet for independent testing, marketed as “dry,” contained 10g/L residual sugar–information the winery deemed proprietary. This raises transparency concerns, especially with “American wine” requiring just 75% U.S. grapes and Napa Cabernet needing only 75% Cabernet Sauvignon. Grocery stores and large producers exploit these loose regulations, leaving consumers in the dark about the contents of their bottles.

The Case for Transparency

Why does this lack of transparency persist in the U.S. wine industry? The answer is multi-faceted, involving a combination of industry resistance, historical precedent, and regulatory inertia. The wine industry has long argued that listing ingredients on labels would complicate the winemaking process and confuse consumers. There is also a concern that ingredient labeling could expose the use of additives, which might deter consumers who prefer a more natural product. However, these arguments overlook a growing trend: consumers want transparency and are capable of understanding it.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires nutritional labeling for almost all packaged food and drink products, yet wine remains under the jurisdiction of the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), which has less stringent requirements. This bifurcation in regulatory oversight is a key reason why wine labeling standards have lagged behind other industries. While the TTB enforces rules related to alcohol content and certain health warnings, it does not mandate the same level of ingredient disclosure required for non-alcoholic beverages.

The European Union’s recent push for ingredient and calorie labeling offers a compelling case study. There, winemakers are embracing the move toward transparency, recognizing that it can build trust with consumers. Far from confusing the marketplace, these new labels are empowering consumers to make informed decisions based on their dietary needs and preferences. For producers who prioritize quality and sustainability, these labels offer an opportunity to differentiate their products in a crowded market.

Consumers are increasingly drawn to wines that are organic, biodynamic, or made with minimal intervention, and transparent labeling can help highlight these qualities.

The Benefits of Transparency

As a winemaker, I understand the importance of building trust with my customers. For me, transparency is not just a regulatory obligation; it’s a philosophy. When I craft my wines, I strive to use the highest quality grapes and minimal intervention. I believe consumers deserve to know exactly what goes into their bottle. This is why I’ve always been open about my practices, even without a legal requirement to do so.

Transparency in labeling could offer a range of benefits, both for consumers and the industry at large. For consumers, it would allow for informed decision-making. People with dietary restrictions, allergies, or simply a desire to consume fewer additives could choose wines that align with their preferences.

Nutritional information, particularly calorie counts and sugar content, would also help consumers make more informed choices about their alcohol consumption. In an age where consumers can instantly access information about virtually anything via their smartphones, the lack of detailed labeling on wine bottles feels increasingly out of step with the times. For the wine industry, transparency could foster innovation and differentiation. Winemakers who prioritize quality, sustainability, and minimal intervention would have the opportunity to showcase their products to a discerning consumer base. As consumers become more aware of the contents of their wine, they will naturally gravitate towards brands that align with their values. This could encourage more producers to adopt sustainable practices and reduce the use of unnecessary additives.

Moreover, transparency could help dispel some of the misconceptions about wine. For years, the wine industry has been hampered by conflicting studies about the health impacts of wine consumption. By providing clear, consistent information about what is in the bottle, the industry could contribute to a more nuanced understanding of wine’s role in a healthy diet. Consumers who are concerned about sugar, additives, or alcohol content would have the information they need to make choices that align with their health goals.

The Road Ahead

Implementing mandatory nutrition and ingredient labeling for wine in the U.S. will undoubtedly require adjustments from the industry. Producers will need to invest in new labeling systems and, in some cases, reformulate their wines to reduce the use of additives. However, the potential benefits far outweigh the challenges. By embracing transparency, the wine industry can build trust with consumers, foster innovation, and elevate the entire sector.

The time has come for the U.S. to catch up with the rest of the world. Mandatory nutrition and ingredient labeling for wine is not just a matter of consumer rights; it’s also an opportunity to elevate the industry. Let’s uncork transparency and usher in a new era of consumer trust in the U.S. wine industry.

Greg Martellotto is a winemaker, Italian Wine Ambassador, and the founder of Big Hammer Wines.

A Short and Quick Guide to Wine Importation Regulatory Process

Cyndi
row of Spanish wine bottles

By: Brad Berkman and Louis Terminello

Importing wine into the United State may initially seem like a daunting task. Licensing requirements and related matters appear to be complex with requirements at both the federal and state levels. With proper planning and guidance, the insurmountable becomes a manageable process. This article will act as a short guide to the initial licensing and regulatory concerns encountered by new importers.

Licensure At the Federal Level

  Importation of wine into the stream of commerce of the United States is regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Prior to importation, the potential importer must qualify to hold a TTB Basic Permit as an Importer. TTB examines the qualifications of the owners and officers through a personal questionnaire process that is executed under the penalty of perjury to ensure that the individual applicant is not impaired from holding the permit. Qualifications of applicants can be found in the Code of Federal Regulations. Printed below are the code sections showing the requirement for licensure and the required qualifications for licensure.

§ 1.20 Importers.

  No person, except pursuant to a basic permit issued under the Act, shall:

(a) Engage in the business of importing into the United States distilled spirits, wine, or malt beverages; or

(b) While so engaged, sell, offer or deliver for sale, contract to sell, or ship, in interstate or foreign commerce, directly or indirectly or through an affiliate, distilled spirits, wine, or malt beverages so imported.

§ 1.24 Qualifications of applicants.

  The application of any person shall be granted, and the permit issued by the appropriate TTB officer if the applicant proves to the satisfaction of the appropriate TTB officer that:

(a) Such person (or in case of a corporation, any of its officers, directors, or principal stockholders) has not, within 5 years prior to the date of application, been convicted of a felony under Federal or State law, and has not, within 3 years prior to date of application, been convicted of a misdemeanor under any Federal law relating to liquor, including the taxation thereof; and

(b) Such person, by reason of the person’s business experience, financial standing or trade connections, is likely to commence operations as a distiller, warehouseman and bottler, rectifier, wine producer, wine blender, importer, or wholesaler, as the case may be, within a reasonable period and to maintain such operations in conformity with Federal law; and

(c) The operations proposed to be conducted by such person are not in violation of the law of the State in which they are to be conducted.

  In conjunction with the personal questionnaire process, the applicant entity is disclosed including ownership structure. Among other things, certain signing authorization forms are prepared, and parties are assigned signing authority on TTB documents.

  In addition to the Importers Basic Permit, it is wise for the applicant to apply for a federal wholesaler’s permit. This permit will allow the licensee to ship alcoholic beverages in interstate commerce. The process for applying for this license is quite similar to the federal importers permit. For consistency purposes, below is a reprint of the code section establishing the requirement for this license.

§ 1.22 Wholesalers.

  No person, except pursuant to a basic permit issued under the Act, shall:

(a) Engage in the business of purchasing for resale at wholesale, distilled spirits, wine, or malt beverages; or,

(b) While so engaged, receive, sell, offer or deliver for sale, contract to sell, or ship in interstate or foreign commerce, directly or indirectly or through an affiliate, distilled spirits, wine, or malt beverages so purchased.

  Both federal permits, if the application process is managed properly and barring any unforeseen issues, should be issued within 45-60 days.

  It’s important to note that basic permits do not expire. They remain in effect until revoked, suspended, voluntarily surrendered or automatically terminated. Automatic termination can occur by operation of law when there is an unreported change in the licensed entity. In particular, change in ownership or stock transfers, among other things, must be reported to TTB on the appropriate forms within 30 days of the occurrence. If they are not reported, the basic permit will terminate by operation of law. It is essential that any contemplated change to the business be analyzed for its effect on the license and reported appropriately if required.

  As an additional note, the foreign winery/production facility must be registered with the FDA as a food facility. A registration number is assigned and must be available at the time of importation or the wine will not clear customs.

Product Approval

  Prior to importation, certain wines may be required to go through a formula approval process conducted by the TTB laboratory, though most do not. Generally, if there are added ingredients including flavorings, formula approval process is required. However, most wines produced and containing only grapes should not require formula approval. Other alcoholic beverages such as spirits and malt must be analyzed separately, as those products tend to have a more stringent formula approval process.

Certificates of Label Approval (COLA’s)

  All imported wine labels must be submitted to the TTB prior to importation and approved. Approval results in the issuance of a Certificate of Label Approval, more commonly called a COLA, which is required to be presented to US Customs at the port of entry, along with other documents.  TTB will examine the label to ensure that all mandatory labeling requirements are met. The wine label approval process can be complex, particularly for a first-time submitter. Certain pieces of information need to be affixed and positioned according to the regulations or the label will be rejected by TTB until brought into compliance. It would be beneficial, especially for the first-time submitter, to consult an expert when commencing the COLA process.

State Licensing

  As noted, TTB regulates the importation of beverage alcohol in foreign and interstate commerce. Prior to brand introduction in any state, it is incumbent on the importer to determine which state licenses are required prior to selling the wine within the borders of that state. As a general rule, some sort of non-resident permit is required, and often times brand registration as well. This is not a one-size-fits-all model, and these writers stress that each state’s requirements be examined carefully, and the appropriate licenses must be obtained.

The Refined Palette of Investment

Cyndi

Exploring Wine as a Strategic Asset

wine bottle laying on blue silk

By: Shana Orczyk Sissel – Founder, President & Chief Executive Officer of Banríon Capital Management

In a time period marked by the unpredictable swings of traditional markets, many investors are turning their attention to more tangible assets that provide not only financial returns but also offer a personal and luxurious experience. Among these alternatives, fine wine is becoming increasingly appealing. As a long-time observer and participant in the alternative investment space, I have seen a significant uptick in wine investment interest, particularly among investors aiming to diversify their portfolios while adding a uniquely personal touch.

Why Wine?

  The appeal of investing in wine is layered and robust. Historically, fine wine has shown remarkable resilience in the face of economic downturns, often outperforming traditional stocks and bonds during inflation and market instability. This resilience is largely due to wine’s status as a luxury item, with its value driven by limited supply and increasing global demand. The finite production of certain vintage wines means that as bottles are consumed, the remaining ones become rarer and potentially more valuable. This positions wine not just as a hedge against inflation but as a compelling means for capital preservation.

Wine Fundamentals for Investors

  For those new to wine investing, understanding the fundamentals is crucial. Key factors to consider include the reputation of the vineyard, the quality and rarity of the vintage, and proper storage conditions to preserve the wine’s value. Investing in wine requires a strategy for buying, storing, and eventually selling:

●     Selection: Focus on well-known regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa Valley, which historically produce wines that appreciate in value.

●     Storage: Proper storage is critical and should be in a climate-controlled environment to protect the wine’s quality and longevity.

●     Insurance: Like any valuable asset, wine collections should be insured, especially as their market value increases.

●     Exit Strategy: Knowing when and how to sell is as important as knowing what to buy. Most fine wines reach a peak market value at a certain point of maturity.

Personalization at Its Best

  Investing in wine is a deeply personal experience. Each bottle has its own story, tied to its origin, vintage, and the subtleties of its taste. This personal dimension allows financial advisors to engage with their clients on a deeper level. Offering wine as dividends, for instance, instead of traditional cash payouts, forges a more meaningful connection between investors and their investments. Imagine the moment of pride an investor feels when uncorking a bottle from “their” vineyard’s wine while entertaining at home.

Strengthening Relationships

  For advisors, the wine industry offers a distinctive way to deepen client relationships. Discussing wines, sharing tastings, and exploring vineyards can be powerful relationship-building experiences. These interactions allow advisors to connect with clients in settings that extend beyond conventional business environments, fostering a sense of camaraderie and shared interest.

  In the same vein, effectively marketing a vineyard or winery to financial advisors can enhance these relationships further. Invite advisors to your property for tours, tastings, and in-depth discussions about your production process and business philosophy. When advisors are familiar with a vineyard’s story, its commitment to quality, and its unique offerings, they are better positioned to recommend these investments confidently to their clients.

Diversification Through Wine

  Wine offers substantial diversification benefits. Its low correlation with conventional financial assets like stocks and bonds means it can help smooth out portfolio volatility, providing steadier returns over time. Incorporating wine into an investment portfolio can act as a buffer against market swings, appealing to those seeking more stability in their investment journey.

Avenues for Investing in Wine

  There are several options when it comes to investing in wine, each offering unique benefits and risks. Direct ownership of bottles or cases is the most traditional method, providing control over selection and requiring knowledge of wine regions and proper storage. Alternatively, wine funds offer ease through professional management, though they lack liquidity and involve fees. Those preferring a more traditional market approach might consider wine stocks, which involve investing in publicly traded companies related to the wine industry. Wine futures, or “en primeur,” allow investors to buy wine before it is bottled, potentially at lower prices, but this comes with its own set of risks related to market and production quality.

  Emerging trends like wine exchange platforms and crowdfunding are modernizing wine investment. Exchange platforms provide transparency and liquidity, enabling the trading of wine much like stocks. Crowdfunding platforms let investors buy shares in vineyards or wine projects, reducing the barrier to entry and allowing participation in potential profits from wine production without substantial upfront investment. We work closely with advisors to help them tailor and better understand the investment options that work best for individual clients.

Seizing Opportunities in the Regulatory Landscape

  Recent shifts in regulatory frameworks have opened new avenues for winemakers and investors. With the ability to raise capital from the public more freely than before, vineyards and wineries can now explore new ways of funding their operations and expansions. However, despite the high demand, there are surprisingly few wine funds available, offering a niche yet potentially lucrative investment opportunity. A thorough understanding of the market and regulatory environment will ensure investors can identify and capitalize on the best offerings.

Targeting a Broader Investor Base

  The demographic of wine investors is expanding, with women in particular drawn to the combination of cultural appreciation, luxury, and investment potential that fine wine offers. Wineries have a significant opportunity to cater to this demographic, especially at tastings, which predominantly attract couples and women. Additionally, social media has introduced new marketing channels that are not only more cost-effective compared to traditional advertising channels like television, but also resonate strongly with the female market. Influencers can provide a personal touch and create authentic connections with products, while “mom memes” underscore wine’s cultural integration.

Global Market Trends

  The global wine market is experiencing significant shifts, influenced by changing consumer behaviors and economic conditions. According to Spherical Insights, the global wine market size is projected to reach $583 billion by 2032 with a compound annual growth rate of 5.7%. Emerging markets, especially in Asia and parts of Africa, are developing a robust appetite for luxury wines driven by increasing wealth and a growing middle class. As a result, demand is likely to keep rising, potentially pushing prices higher in well-established and emerging wine markets alike.

  In Europe and North America, consumption patterns are stabilizing, but the interest in high-quality, sustainable, and boutique wines is growing. This shift towards premium products supports higher price points and can enhance investment returns.

The Future of Wine Investing

  The future looks promising for the wine sector. As awareness of its benefits grows, more investors are likely to explore how wine can complement their portfolios. For newcomers, starting with a reputable wine fund can provide a secure and enlightening entry into the market, combining financial benefits with the pleasure of ownership.

The Last Sip

  Wine investing extends beyond simple asset acquisition; it’s about embracing a lifestyle and crafting a portfolio that mirrors personal tastes and passions. For those eager to incorporate sophistication and personalization into their investment strategy, wine offers an enticing path. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to the world of wine, the right investment strategy can transform every sip into not just a taste of exquisite craftsmanship but also a toast to financial prosperity.

As Founder, President & Chief Executive Officer of Banríon Capital Management Shana Orczyk Sissel helps independent advisors navigate the complex world of alternative investing, bridging the gap between public and private alternative investment opportunities. Additionally, she assists clients with investment platform development, alternatives in portfolio construction and developing best practice in alternative investment due diligence. In this role, Ms. Sissel assisted in the launch of Armada ETF Advisors, and served as a key advisor in the firm’s recent launch of its first ETF product, the Home Appreciation U.S. REIT ETF (HAUS).

The Beaujolais “Nouvelle” Generation

Cyndi
man pouring wine in crowded place

By: Tod Stewart

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! Readers of a certain vintage may recall the pandemonium at the local wine purveyor upon the unleashing of that phrase. It was the official annual call for wine lovers to storm the shelves and grab as many bottles as possible (or cases) of the year’s first ferment.

  Beaujolais nouveau was never (and still isn’t) a particularly great wine, but then again, it wasn’t meant to be. The wine itself was simply “a means to an event,” for lack of a better way to state it. Originally meant to celebrate the vintage and slake the thirst of the French workers who’d been toiling in the vineyards, Beaujolais nouveau morphed into an international phenomenon, spawning a plethora of fun, fruity, fast-fermented wines around the globe – and also spawning global parties.

  A major bonus of the nouveau craze, insofar as the region’s winemakers were concerned, was the spreading of the word Beaujolais far and wide. The downside may have been that all Beaujolais started to become lumped together in the minds of consumers, leading to the incorrect assumption that, in spite of the wine’s (subtle) diversity, it was all fun, fruity, light and inconsequential.

  “I would agree on the fun and fruity description. Light, not so sure,” contends Phillippe Marx, commercial director for Vinescence, a 350-producer-strong cooperative established in 1929. With growers spread over 2,970 acres across the region, Vinescence is able to offer selections from every Beaujolais category. 

  “With the recent climate evolution, we have wines with 13 percent alcohol that I would not describe as light,” he suggests. (Indeed, I recently had one that was 14 percent.) “If you are speaking about the structure, yes, we have less structure and body than wines made from cabernet or zinfandel, but what we do have is elegance – something that a larger share of the consumers are looking for.”

  The profile of Beaujolais wines as being “elegant” rather than “opulent” stems from a couple of factors. The first is the grape variety used. The second has to do with what’s done with it.

  The Gamay grape (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, if you want to be precise) is the Beaujolais grape. Sure, there are plantings in other parts of France (notably the Loire Valley) and in pockets scattered around the globe (it does quite well in Ontario’s Niagara region). But in no other region is it as dominant as in Beaujolais. In fact, about 98 percent of all vines planted in the region are Gamay. Thin-skinned, early-ripening and moderately vigorous, Gamay, more often than not, yields red wines relatively high in acid, low in tannin and eminently fruity – both on the nose and in the mouth. The grape’s qualities are enhanced via a semi-carbontic fermentation process, where whole grape clusters (including stems) are, in the words of Jancis Robinson, MW, “…fermented whole, fast and relatively warm, with some pumping over and a high proportion of added press wine….” This can last for as little as three days (in the case of nouveau) and up to 16 for the more top-level cru Beaujolais.

  “The typical carbonic maceration of full grapes enables us to express all the aromatic potential of the Gamay grape,” Marx confirms. “In the last decade, we rediscovered the possibilities offered by using oak and some longer maceration time. For some of our crus like Morgon and Moulin à Vent, or some single vineyard wines, we are also working in a more Burgundian style of vinification, with destemming and longer skin contact. This adds more structure to the wine, and with soft oak aging, enables us to smooth the tannins and reveal the full depth of the wine. This approach enables us to take advantage of the versatility of Gamay, and give [it] the chance to show all [its] potential, from the soft juicy Chiroubles to the earthy Côte de Brouilly and the soft bodied Morgon,” he explains.

  Of course, the supple, easy-drinking nature of Beaujolais wines might have the “Napa cab crowd” dismissing them as less than “serious.” Marx responds to such criticism in a way that leaves me nodding (rather enthusiastically) in agreement. “Regarding serious, who said wine has to be serious? Wine is about sharing pleasure and good vibes. Serious is such an old way of approaching wine; a time when it was reserved for serious [air quotes] people. Beaujolais is a wine that speaks to all consumers – young and old – who are looking just to enjoy a nice glass or to discover the complexity that a mature Gamay wine can offer.”

  Delving a bit more deeply into what differentiates the styles of various Beaujolais wines – from Beaujolais to Beaujolais-Villages, to the ten crus de Beaujolais – Marx notes that a winemaker aims for different outcomes depending on the pedigree of the wine being produced.

  “We at Vinescence have the chance to produce all the wines from Beaujolais, from Beaujolais Nouveau to each of the single crus. When producing Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, you are trying to extract something different than when you produce, for example, a single vineyard Morgon. For the first ones, you look to keep the fruit and the freshness. For the other one, you are trying to have more extraction and reveal all the potential.

  This potential is the combination of the soil, the exposure and the altitude. So yes, nature gives you a different potential, and with your specific vinification style, you try to express the best of this potential. For instance, we age some of our crus in oak barrels to underline the structure, but we decided that this is not an option for our Beaujolais Villages. This is not what we are looking for in a villages-level wine. In Beaujolais we are fortunate to have a whole spectrum of different profiles due to that combination of natural elements – our role is to express them in the best possible way.”

Speaking of different profiles, there’s also been increased interest in Beaujolais Rosé and especially Beaujolais Blanc.

  “Beaujolais Rosé remains, in my opinion, a niche market. We are not competitive on prices because of our limited yield,” admits Cathy Lathuiliere, owner and winemaker for Domaine de Lathuiliere-Gravallon, an estate that dates back to 1875. “On the other hand, it is another story for Beaujolais Blanc, which is becoming more and more in demand. Indeed it is a chardonnay similar to Bourgogne wine, which is becoming more and more inaccessible in terms of price. Some customers who previously bought a generic white Burgundy at a reasonable price have switched to Beaujolais Blanc, which can be an excellent alternative.”

  In fact, one of the tenants of “Beaujolais Nouvelle Generation” – the ten-year roadmap developed by Inter Beaujolais (the Beaujolais wine council) is to diversify the region’s wine portfolio by placing additional emphasis on rosé (short-term goal) and white wines (mid- to long-term goal).

  Of course, one element the winemakers of Beaujolais have had to contend with (touched on earlier in the story) – and one with which they have no control over is the effect of climate change. Interestingly, winemakers in the region do not necessarily see this as a bad thing for them, understanding that it’s not the ideal situation globally.

  “We have observed during the decade a global warming, [that it] is totally beneficial for Beaujolais,” says Lathuiliere-Gravallon. “Now we make more balanced wines, with a little less acidity. Unfortunately, this warming has reduced the yield due to frost and hail, not to mention drought conditions.”

  Marx points out that when he came to Beaujolais 35 years ago, harvest started mid-to-late September. The past vintage harvest started in mid-August. While he concedes the extra warmth ultimately leads to wines with more structure, there are some new challenges to deal with. “We need to work harder during vinification to maintain the balance between freshness and body, fruit and structure,” he notes.

  While Beaujolais producers can’t directly alter the effects of climate change, they can work together to ensure the byproducts of their profession contribute as little environmental impact as possible. In fact, winemakers in the region have taken an active role in developing and encouraging sustainable practices on their own, initially with no government encouragement or support. Today, they are leaders in promoting positive environmental, economic and social aspects relating to their industry.

  Marx made some good points a few paragraphs back about the “serious” nature of wine. At the risk of going off on a personal opinion tangent (but since I’m the writer, why not?), when you consider the rather “serious” state of the world these days, maybe what we could all use is a large glass (or three) of a wine that has been fermented for one reason only: to bring pleasure. It’s not meant to be analyzed, collected, cellared or (shudder) scored. A few good, fruity gulps of Beaujolais Nouveau (slightly chilled) might be just what the doctor ordered. Of course, this year le Beaujolais Nouveau n’est pas arrivé! – at least here in Ontario (due to supply chain, inflation, Putin or COVID – pick one…or all). But thankfully, there are plenty of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages and crus de Beaujolais to keep the party rolling.

Brunello di Montalcino 2019-Great Material & Spirited Character Animate a Lustrous Vintage

Cyndi
vineyard under blue sky

By: Raffaele Vecchione (Founder and Editor of WinesCritic.com)

An in-depth analysis of a rich, sunny vintage with over 150 Brunello di Montalcino 2019 tasted.

  2019 is assuredly a vintage that will be remembered over the years thanks to the perfect amalgam of technological and phenolic maturity and the sheer quantity of grapes the producers took to the winery.

  This extraordinary year,  at a historically difficult time, which raised many doubts about climate change and the seasonal trends it brings, arrived like Manna from heaven for National and International producers and wine merchants.

The waiting was over, Brunello di Montalcino finally signed its name on the register and it did it in grand style.

  The 2019 followed two difficult vintages; the 2017 was decisive, vibrant and distinguished itself with a solid acidic impression and some slightly herbaceous matrices. (https://www.winescritic.com/brunello-di-montalcino-2017-la-maestria-dei-produttori-viene-fuori-nel-difficile-millesimo/)

  The rainy 2018 which was difficult to manage cultivation wise was pleasant with great harmony albeit unstable and rather fragile in some expressions.

  2019 was everything producers look for in a vintage. A sunny year, sometimes hot, dynamic and rich, solid and layered, complex and territorial. The right amount of well distributed rain contributed to the maturity of the grape without ever being cause for alarm. The harvest, which went smoothly during a window of time when the weather was mild and dry, framed an almost perfect picture for the winemakers.

  In 2019 the most memorable event was the exceptional absence of storms (hail, frosts, drought or excess rain) which we have unfortunately become more accustomed to over the last few years.

  A few rain showers, perfect for lowering the temperature and reinvigorating the grapes, arrived in the middle of July and August without doubt contributed to making this a great year.

  In the glass the vintage is distinguished by notable material in the sip, thanks to a perfectly centred grape harvest; lively tannins, rigid at times but noble and fine nonetheless thanks to the quality of the fruit and the producer’s interpretation of the right amount of refinement in barrels of different dimensions.

  The finale is always fresh, harmonic and balanced, highly appreciated from the start.

  Over the last few years we are witnessing wines being bottled earlier than the classic time during which the major part of producers usually bottle. They are trying to bottle before the classic month of September, bringing it forward to July or even March or April in order to benefit from the longer period in the bottle before the new vintage is released onto the market,at the same time this keeps the freshness and character of Sangiovese more fragrant and tasty.

  New containers are arriving in the wineries, there’s a crazy search for wooden barrels which are taller rather than wider (refinement vats), these are useful because they increase the contact surface of the wine to the most noble part of the wood.

  The production is also helped by the  great enthusiasm and willingness to work on expressions which are born from the territory, in particular from single vineyards.

  The ever more expert merchants are looking for territorial wines which are easily to recognise and trace back to the vineyard. This concept of the vineyard allows us to take some prerogatives in order to understand the evolution of a single parcel over time which is rigorously vinified whilst carefully maintaining maximum attention towards truly bringing out its unique particularities.

  The primary analysis during the tastings of 150 Brunello di Montalcino allowed us to place it alongside the great vintages of 2010, 2015 and 2016. Maybe the right mix between the different vintages would bring us something new and unexpected in the structure of the 2010, the power and astringent character of the 2015 and the class and elegance of the 2016.

  It has an agile and sinuous movement and is immediately striking to the taster by showing the right amount of material and freshness.

  About ten wines would have been on the podium to contend for the title of best wine of the vintage.

  In the end the one to win the highest recognition and take home a perfect score was Giodo, a union of balance, class, elegance and quality of material.

  Demonstrating the right concentration and the right determination in the alternation between fruit and citrus which always distinguishes the great Sangiovese. It will continue to grow over time and will give the best of itself from 2025 onwards.

  The painstaking work done by Bianca Ferrini and Riccardo Ferrari, respectively owner and agronomist/oenologist of the winery was perfectly directed by Carlo Ferrini, the World famous consultant oenologist.

  Behind him the fantastic competitive challenge between three Titans. Renieri and Fuligni are incredible wines which tell the story of the greatness of the vintage in different manners. Renieri is spicy and decisive, creating remarkable salivation which makes the expression absolutely gastronomic and pleasing with the edgy traces which distinguish a thoroughbred Sangiovese.

  Fuligni has an auster character, composed and rigid at times, a wine that we need to understand and read in an introspective manner to truly appreciate the quality which distinguishes it. There’s no need to shout and in the 2019 vintage the symphony is regal and dashing.

  Pietroso is exciting in the deep traces which alternate between the fruity character of cherries and sour cherries mixed with candid notes reminiscent of the freshness and elegance of magnolias, gardenias and hawthorn.

  In the Olympus of expressions which are more unique than rare is Madonna delle Grazie, produced by Il Marroneto it steals the scene with captivating nuances and the mastery of a select few. It’s the tannins profile which is exciting, dense and compact, absolutely integrated from the start.

  On the same footing we find Vignavecchia di San Polo, it’s the best expression ever made in the winery, the method and the Venetian rigour have born great fruit and given satisfaction with a wine which is precise and essential with character to sell.

  Still tying on points (98) are different profiles and different visions from producers who have their fingers on the pulse of great wine production.

  Piero, Vigna del Suolo, Giovanni Neri and Vecchie Vigne respectively, then Talenti, Argiano, Casanova di Neri and Siro Pacenti are all incredible wines which border on perfection of execution and underline the depth of the vintage.

  A heartfelt thanks to all the producers who participated in our tasting and who welcomed us during the harvest period.

History in a Glass 

Cyndi
3 wine glasses different colors of wine 3rd glass being filled by pouring wine from bottle

By: Tod Stewart

As with everything, wine is not immune to the whims and vagaries of tastes and trends. In fact, some of the most historically popular (and important) wines have practically fallen off the modern wine aficionado’s radar. Yes, sherry, m’dear, I’m talking to you. The good news is that your moment in the spotlight may be returning.

  Sherry sports the distinction of being an incredibly significant yet incredibly misunderstood player in the wine game at the same time. This is likely due to a double whammy of being unfairly associated with “grandma’s wine” and erroneously associated with something sweet. The sweet stuff your (probably British) grandmother once drank (or maybe still does) isn’t what most Spaniards would regard as sherry. In fact, sweet, or “cream,” sherry is a decidedly English concoction developed to satisfy a certain palate. Most “true” sherries are really quite dry (fino sherry is perhaps the driest wine commercially made). But let’s back up a bit. What exactly is sherry?

  Sherry is the product of a demarcated area of southern Spain’s Andalusia, close to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s important to stress that authentic sherry is Spanish. Period. Full stop. Sure, “sherry style” wines are produced around the world, but the real deal comes from Spain. Yet considering the influence of the British on the development of the sherry trade and with sherry firms sporting names like Duff Gordon, Osborne, Williams & Humbert and John Harvey & Sons, you might be tempted to think it’s made in England. Andalusia is a hot region with little rain. The chalky albariza soil plays host to the white Palomino Fino grape variety (along with some Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel planted in the less favorable barros and arenas soils).

  While unique soils and grape varieties are the cornerstones of sherry’s character, the production methods and maturation process really give the wine its character.

  Sherry begins life as a dry white wine, which is then lightly fortified (usually to about 15 percent alcohol via the addition of a grape spirit and wine mixture) and is left in barrels filled only two-thirds full. A typical table wine would oxidize under these conditions. But the damp sherry cellars filled with oxygen-rich Atlantic air create ideal conditions for the development of flor – a yeast blanket that covers the surface of the wine and both protects it from deterioration and eliminates harmful, vinegar-producing bacteria.

  The wines designated as fino, the lightest and driest style of sherry, go on to mature for a year or so. The flor allows finos and sherries based on the fino style, like amontillado and palo cortado, to mature, for the most part, biologically since the flor does the aging. Barrels with little or no flor are given additional fortification and designated as oloroso. These wines are given an extra dose of alcohol and allowed to age oxidatively, as oxygen does the aging.

  After the cellar master determines which barrels are going to result in what, the wines are introduced to soleras for final blending and maturation.

  A solera is basically a series of barrels. Each contains the same style of wine but of differing stages of aging. Fully mature wine is tapped off the bottom barrel. This barrel is topped up with slightly younger wine from the barrel above, which is topped up with even younger wine from the barrel above it. New wine is introduced to the first barrel in the chain. (Then it tells two friends, and they tell two friends and so on. Sorry, but that paragraph just set itself up.)

  This constant blending, referred to as “dynamic maturation” (as opposed to “distressing maturation,” which is what I’m personally experiencing), results in a supply of fully mature wine that is always consistent. Stylistically speaking, finos and their ilk tend to be lighter and more delicate, while olorosos are darker and nuttier. Cream sherries (e.g., Harvey’s Bristol Cream) are typically blends of sweet wine with drier wine before being sold to old people in the UK. Serve finos cool, the others less cool. Also, don’t forget they are wines, so treat them like wine and not like, well, not like whatever stuff you keep sitting open in a dusty decanter on the mantle for eternity.

  Even if you understand sherry’s complex creation cycle, you still aren’t out of the woods when it comes to fully comprehending the stuff. And honestly, the industry itself is partially to blame for a lot of the confusion.

  I mean, just as you are getting the concept of “dynamic” aging and how it results in uniformity of the finished (and non-vintage, I should add) wine, you run smack into sherries proclaiming to be a 20-year-old or a 30-year-old. Having made peace with the claim that fino sherries are light, fresh and delicate and should be consumed within six months, you are hit with something called a “very old fino.” This happens right after you’ve been told that an amontillado is, more or less, an aged fino. Huh? Oh, yeah, and don’t forget manzanilla, which is a fino aged near the sea (And how “near” counts for near?). What’s a palo cortado (and why are there three levels of the stuff)? The verdict seems to be constantly out. And what is PX? Sounds like a virus. Is “amoroso” a sherry or an aphrodisiac? Is cream sherry a dairy product? And what are we to make of a “Palo Cortado ‘Almacenista’ Solara Matured by Vides 1/50”? Did Torquemada use this stuff to extract confessions? “Cardinal Fang, make the heretic learn about sherry!”

  Luckily, developing a taste for sherry is a fair bit easier and more pleasurable than actually understanding it on a technical level. But, for some, it might not be the smoothest ride.

  Sherry is a bit of an acquired taste. In my university years, I had read about the wonders of dry fino sherry long before I ever had the opportunity to taste it. And when I did, I couldn’t believe people actually drank it, let alone waxed rhapsodic about it. It can indeed have floral overtones, but in general, fino sherry is an oxidized, high-alcohol number that smells not of a particular vinifera but, depending on the style, of sea spray, bitter almond and green olive. Darker styles like oloroso and amontillado lean toward notes of walnut, sultana raisin, fruitcake and yes, varnish. In other words, not pinot grigio. Thank God. Sherry remains staunchly traditional and demands that you conform to it rather than vice versa. Like other complex forms of art, you often don’t fully appreciate it until you’ve looked at it, listened to it or tasted it a number of times. You mature; so does your palate.

  So, what’s the future looking like for a wine as complex and traditional as sherry? For some answers, I spoke to Victoria González-Gordon López de Carrizosa, from the historic González Byass, a legendary sherry bodega (and creator of the now legendary Tio Pepe brand) with roots stretching back into the 1800s. 

  “Since the sherry ‘glory days’ of the 1970s and 80s, producers have adapted significantly to the changing demands of international markets,” she emphasized, noting that while volume sales are still important in traditional markets like the UK and Holland, González Byass has focused efforts on moving away from volume production, aiming instead at high quality, premium sherries. “Much emphasis has been put on education,” she notes, as sherry is a wine that needs to be understood: its particular production methods, styles and versatility.”

  She reveals that “change has been constant since the turn of the century, as sherry producers have looked to establish sherry as quality, world-class fortified wine. As a result, the Consejo Regular Jerez, the governing body for sherry, is initiating changes across the board in order to prepare the region for the future. This includes expanding the production areas for sherry, which will allow more wineries to promote their wines as sherry. In addition, new grape varietals are being approved for production, responding to the demand for native varietals and those that can adapt to the changing climate – and to allow for more innovation in the future. Another important factor is a change in regulations so that different wines and styles are more easily understood by the end consumer.”

  Creative bartenders, it would seem, may be the engine driving sherry’s future popularity.

  “It is clear that mixology is helping us reach new, younger consumers,” González-Gordon López de Carrizosa confirms. “We believe this is an important way to communicate the versatility of sherry. In markets like the USA and Canada, it is great to have our sherry ‘name called’ or specifically mentioned as an essential ingredient in a well-made cocktail. We are proud to have González Byass sherries featured in cocktails on top mixology lists and in the very best bars in major, trend-setting cities around the world. Often, this experience can be the first and very important step to introducing our wines to consumers and giving them a chance to learn about this fascinating drink.”

  As they say, what goes around comes around, and it seems the time is now for a bit of a sherry renaissance.

Greece: A Wine Odyssey 

Cyndi
Picture of a greek god statue drinking out of a bowl

By: Tod Stewart

It’s hot. I mean, it’s really (expletive) hot. Hades hot. The afternoon sun, with not a cloud to diffuse its merciless heat, beats down on the vines. And on me. I’m not sure if vines sweat, but I’m starting to get just a tad sticky under the collar. Luckily, the vineyard’s elevation, combined with a modest breeze blowing off the Kassandra Gulf, offers a modest respite from my discomfort. The promise that we’d soon be heading back to the cool tasting room of Domaine Porto Carras to sample the fruits of the vine’s labors was also enticing.

  Greece in mid-July is typically hot. This year is record-breaking, as it has been through most of Europe. It might have been a bit uncomfortable at times, but the awesome scenery, fantastic food and, of course, the huge variety of top-quality wines more than made up for any negatives. (At some point, I’ll submit a piece on the pros and cons of being a food/drink/travel journalist…sometimes it’s not as romantic as it sounds.)

  I’m here in the northern part of the country, in Thessaloniki, to be exact, on a junket hosted by Greece and the European Union. My job was to learn more about the protected designation of origin (PDO) Slopes of Meliton and the protected geographical indication (PGI) Sithonia. I was about to get a thorough introduction to one of the area’s most important wineries.

Where I’m at now is in the PDO Slopes of Meliton region, a roughly circular area around Mount Meliton (which is about 120 kilometers southeast, more or less, of Thessaloniki). It’s located on the second finger of a three-fingered peninsula that looks just like the prongs of Poseidon’s trident into the crystalline Aegean. Within its boundaries lie the impressive Porto Carras Grand Resort and the equally impressive Domaine Porto Carras winery. The latter is the place I’m here to check out.

  Concluding my walk through some of the Domaine’s 450 hectares of organic vineyards, I head into the recesses of the winery to taste a range of impressive wines. These include a trio of crisp, fresh, melon/peach/mineral Assyrtikos, two vintages of the ripe, tropical, baking spice and baked apple-tinged Chateau Porto Carras Le Grand Blanc (a blend of Malagousia, Assyrtiko and the red Limnio) and a lemony/cherry/stone fruit Blanc de Noir (100 percent) Limnio.

  Assyerti-what? Malagou-who? You won’t be taken to task if you’re not exactly literate in the vernacular of Greek grape-speak. After all, the land is planted with over 300 indigenous grape varieties, most of which (okay, practically all of which) will be unfamiliar to non-Greek wine consumers (and likely winemakers). Sure, there are non-indigenous varieties, like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier, that are likely familiar to most (and likely pronounceable). But native varieties like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Monemvasia, Avgoustiatis, and maybe Mavrotragano certainly aren’t (yet) household names in North America and don’t exactly roll off the tongue the way chardonnay and merlot do.

  Of course you’ll likely not be bombarded with several hundred difficult-to-pronounce varietals when you begin your exploration of Greek wines.

  As far as black-skinned varieties go, you’re most likely to encounter Agiorgitiko, Limnio, Xinomavro and possibly Mantilaria.

  For whites, you’ll probably meet Assyrtiko, Robola, Moschofilero, and Roditis (the latter two are technically pink-skinned but typically wind up as white wines. More frequently, you’ll also encounter Malagousia.

  “Malagousia has essentially been taking the place of Moschofilero over the past 20 years or so,” observes Steve Kriaris, president of Kolonaki Group of Companies, one of the leading importers of Greek wines into Ontario. “It’s a bit more well-rounded than Moschofilero and ultimately has a little more to offer the consumer.”

  I’m back in Toronto five months after my sojourn and still itching for a way to recreate the “Greece Experience.” In fact, it was the desire of tourists to relive the memories they had of their time in Greece that, in part, led to the popularity of Greek wines on this side of the pond, according to Kriaris.

  “As the popularity of Greece as a tourist destination grew,” he said, “those returning brought fond memories of the experience back with them…including fond memories of some terrific wines, and they wanted to relive the memories at home.”

  It’s Sunday night, and Kriaris, myself and Joy MacDonald, Kolonaki’s national sales manager of fine wines and spirits, are sipping our way through a selection of some of Kolonaki’s latest offerings, ensconced in the wine cellar of a (surprisingly) jam-packed Mesez restaurant.

  Greece is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, with historical records dating production back some 6,500 years. Historically, wine became an integral part of Greek society, interwoven into its culture as it spread through the Mediterranean world. However, it wasn’t until fairly recently (starting mostly in the ’80s) that the Greek wine “renaissance” firmly took hold, and the world began to discover the quality and variety of Greek wines. Why the delay? Kriaris cites a couple of reasons.

  “The ’80s saw the first influx of younger Greek winemakers who had received their training outside of Greece, typically in Bordeaux and, to a lesser extent, Burgundy,” Kriaris explains. “They were not only exposed to more international styles of wine, but came home with the knowledge of how to make them, and they started crafting some really amazing wines.”

  The other reason we’ve already alluded to: the challenge of dealing with multiple tongue-twisting grape varieties planted throughout multiple regions. “There was so much to learn, and consumers felt overwhelmed,” Kriaris concedes. Things have changed pretty drastically these days, both in terms of Greece as an international player in the wine game and with consumers themselves.

  For the number-lovers out there, here we go:

•   1,617 wineries

•   more than 7,500 brands

•   17th largest producer

•   26th largest exporter

•   wine styles = white, red, rose, sparkling, sweet

(source: O.I.V. (2021) / Greek Wine Federation

  Growing consumer interest has also led to them focusing not just on establishing a comfort level with Greece’s indigenous grapes, but making the connection between specific varieties grown in specific areas. “The regionality of Greek wines has just begun,” Kriaris maintains. “Now it’s not just Assyrtiko or Malagousia, it’s Assyrtiko from this area, or Malagousia from that area.”

  While consumer sophistication and curiosity have fueled an interest in high-quality, modern-style wines, it can’t be ignored that the wine that historically became most closely associated with Greece (for good or bad) was undoubtedly retsina. Essentially a wine made from grapes must be treated with pine resin, often so much resin that one got the feeling that they were drinking pine sap rather than wine. But this, too, is changing.

  “Retsina used to be made without much thought,” Kriaris explains. “The amount of resin legally permitted ranged from 0.5 parts to one part per 35 ounces or so of must. That’s quite a range.” Of course, a good dollop of resin can mask numerous wine flaws, and bulk producers of the style tended to go heavy on the pine and light on the wine, as it were. And unfortunately, it was this style of retsina that ultimately hit the export market. In Kriaris’ words, “The bad juice left the country. Ultimately, what happened is that every major producer had to have a retsina in its portfolio, and the huge increase in volume resulted in an equally huge decline in quality.”

  However, the fate (and reputation) of retsina is changing. As every winemaker reading this knows, wine (any wine) is effectively a “garbage in, garbage out” situation. You can’t craft great wine from substandard fruit. And you can’t make a respectable retsina with lousy juice as the base. Today, serious retsina producers start with high-quality wine, often made from a single varietal, and the resin used (sparingly) comes from a specific strain of pine tree grown in limited areas. I’ve tasted some of these “modern” retsinas and can assure you that they are nothing like what most of us have probably experienced. They are typically floral, fruity and fragrant, with subtle notes of pine being a team player rather than the captain of the flavor profile.

  Domaine Porto Carras’ tagline is “New Era,” and it was explained, over the course of my tasting by CEO Sergei Smirnov, that this stood for a “new approach to everything,” not just a new approach to Greek winemaking. “New Era starts with people,” he noted, adding that the “connection between grapes and people matters.”

  Indeed, the modern Greek wine industry is certainly about connecting grapes to people because it’s still a bit of an undiscovered treasure waiting to be uncovered.

  “What I would say about Greek wine is that, in the wine world where everything seems to be just the same, there’s one country creating a huge new identity, varietal over varietal, region over region,” Kriaris concludes. “And that’s Greece. So if you want to get back to the fun of the wine world, which is what got us all here in the first place, and start exploring again, I’d say that a new journey now starts in the Greek wine world.”

Wines of Argentina

Cyndi
charcuterie board with wine

 By: Tod Stewart

Bonnie and Clyde. Jekyll and Hyde. Bread and butter. Salt and pepper. Some things are so synonymous with something else that it’s almost impossible to mention one without the other. In the oenophilic world, it’s hard to mention Argentina without mentioning (or at least thinking about) malbec.

  Personally, I can’t think of any other country whose vinous history is so inexorably linked to a single grape variety. (Okay, New Zealand and sauvignon blanc; I’ll give you that.) So important is malbec to Argentina’s wine industry that it accounts for almost 40 percent of all Argentine wine sold. And each year, April 17 is celebrated as Malbec World Day, a global initiative created by Wines Of Argentina (the organization responsible for, among other things, promoting the country’s wines) that seeks to position Argentine malbec as one of the most prominent varieties in the world. 

  First introduced in the mid-19th century, malbec vineyards in Argentina continue to expand, with close to 110,000 acres in the ground today.

When I visited Argentina a few years ago, I got a first-hand look at what progressive winemakers were doing in terms of technological improvements, vineyard site selection and viticultural and vinicultural practices. In other words, serious winemaking practices by dedicated, quality-oriented vintners. It wasn’t always like this.

“Until the late 1980s, Argentina was probably the worst wine producing country in the world,” admitted California vintner Paul Hobbs during an interview (and being careful not to mince words).” Having established a number of successful partnerships in California, Hobbs set out to prove to himself and the rest of the world that, when treated with respect, Argentine malbec could yield wines as good (and in the case of those from his Argentinian venture Viña Cabos, often better) than the best any country has to offer. The reason for the poor quality was simple: nobody really wanted to make anything better.

“Wine was strictly for consuming, not selling in bottle,” Hobbs maintained, “and for the most part it was all oxidized. There was really no concept of how to make good wine.”

  Thanks in large part to the pioneering efforts of local winemaker Nicolás Catena, whose epiphany came while in Napa Valley (and who took inspiration from Robert Mondavi’s contribution to the wine scene there), the scene began to change. Hobbs experienced a similar epiphany on a road trip from Santiago, Chile, to Mendoza, Argentina, at about the same time that Argentina’s winemakers were starting to get serious.

  “I saw what was possible,” he recounted. “There was a strong culture of wine, but a lack of practical knowledge. The vineyards were poorly farmed. The vines, especially for malbec, were over-irrigated, and in an effort to mitigate the threat of hail, trained far too low to the ground.”

  However, he saw a strong work ethic in the people and the potential in the land to support a world-class wine industry. “What I saw,” he says, “was an unpainted canvas.” Transforming this canvas into a vinous Rembrandt has been, essentially, what Hobbs has been able to do.

  While controlling yields and bringing more modern winemaking equipment and techniques to bear has certainly led to the continuing improvement in the overall quality of Argentina’s wines, perhaps the most significant factor behind the positive developments in the country’s wine industry hasn’t been so much about how to treat the fruit, but rather, where to plant the fruit. And as winemakers began to explore grape varieties beyond malbec, it has become apparent that they behave quite differently depending on where they are planted.

  “In our case [site selection] is the most important thing,” admitted Germán di Césare, winemaker at Bodega Trivento. “The vineyard selection is critical because it is where the whole process begins. Each site provides different characteristics to the wine, so we plant according to the wine we want to produce.”

  I also asked Gonzalo Bertelsen, general manager and chief winemaker at Mendoza’s Finca el Origen, who elaborated further:

  “Every vineyard suits a particular vine and wine,” he told me. “And even within the same vineyard, we see big differences in how the vines behave depending on weather, grape variety, soil, rootstock, irrigation, canopy management, hang time, and so on.” He notes that merlot wines made from fruit grown in the eastern part of Mendoza are typically very different than those sourced from the region’s western part, which is 600 meters higher.”

  In fact, elevation has turned out to be one of the most critical considerations in the critical process of vineyard location. The vines for Hobbs Viña Cobos wines are planted in numerous high-elevation vineyards throughout the Uco Valley and the department of Luján de Cuyo. The soils in these vineyards tend to be poor in organic material and blessed with deep layers of rock and mineral, as well as good drainage, resulting in fruit with concentration, structure and complexity.

  “High-altitude vineyards provide a wide temperature range,” Di Césare confirmed, going on to explain that “low temperatures at night and higher temperatures during the day make for perfect conditions for the harvesting of perfectly ripened fruit.” 

  As alluded to a few paragraphs back, malbec might be the preferred weapon in most Argentinian winemakers’ arsenal. Still, plenty of other red and white varieties are being used with generally favorable results.

  “We are sure that we can show there is much more Argentina can offer than just malbec,” Julián Iñarra Iraegui, commercial director for Proemio wines, told me. “The region we are in, Maipú, from my understanding, is the best region for growing cabernet sauvignon. We also make wines from petit verdot, syrah, grenache and cabernet franc.” Iraegui said that Proemio is looking to “deconstruct and reconstruct” classic French blends to craft wines that are both single varietal expressions and blends featuring those same grapes. He stated the winery’s style is “more French.”

  “We avoid over-extraction and the heavy use of oak,” he said. “We import our barrels from France, and we are also using some barrels that are made from tree branches rather than trunks. We are the first winery to use these in Argentina.”

  Tasting through a range of Proemio wines with Iraegui, I was impressed by the complexity, poise 

and refinement of the wines crafted by French-thinking (though of Italian descent) Marcelo Bocardo. “Marcelo loves blends,” Iraegui revealed when asked whether malbec might be better as part of a blend than as a single varietal.

  Though the winery makes a couple of 100 percent malbec wines, Iraegui said that the winery “loves cabernets.”

  Indeed, the Proemio cabernet sauvignon “Reserve” 2016, with its aromas of tobacco, black currant, mint, pepper and dark plum, more than adequately showed the potential of this grape variety. Juicy and dense, it was nonetheless perfectly balanced and elegant, with a hint of spice intermingling with the chewy cassis fruit.

  Just as Argentina isn’t solely about malbec, it’s also not strictly about vino tinto. Most of the main international white varietals (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier, semillon, chenin blanc and muscat) have taken root in the country’s soil. But the most interesting white variety is something unique to Argentina.

  A cross between the Listán Prieto and Muscat of Alexandria varieties, Torrontés (or more precisely, Torrontés Riojano (there are three variations of the grape), gives white wines with intense aromatics and lively flavors (very much like a dry muscat…not surprisingly).

  “Torrontés is a magnificent variety, with a high oenological value and [versatility] to obtain different wine types,” Susana Balbo of the Eponymous Winery explained to me. “In our case, we produce low-alcohol wines, natural sweet wines, dry wines, barrel fermented wines and late harvest wines from Torrontés grapes. Due to its great aromatic richness and its adaptability to diverse types of climate, Torrontés provides an interesting range of aromas that makes each wine unique.”

  I’m not sure if the situation is different in the United States, but in Canada, the wines of Argentina have generally been relegated to the “cheap and cheerful” category, which isn’t really fair and certainly doesn’t allow consumers to experience what the country really has to offer, wine-wise. Sure, you can get perfectly acceptable wines for under $20 (that’s CDN, so apply the current conversion factor for USD). But I highly recommend springing for something a bit more upmarket. You’ll likely find that the flavor profile will increase dramatically even though the price will still be below that of wines from more recognized countries and regions.