Celebrating the 40th Anniversary of Oregon’s Willamette Valley AVA

rows and rows of vineyards in Oregon

By: Becky Garrison

This year marks the 40th anniversary of Oregon’s Willamette Valley AVA, which runs from Portland in the North to Eugene in the South. According to the Willamette Valley Wineries Association’s website this AVA consists of 931 vineyards and 736 wineries that represent a total 3,438,000 acres. Currently this AVA has 11 nested AVAs that contain two-thirds of the 1,110+ wineries in Oregon.

  While wine has been made in the Willamette Valley since the 1880s, initially this land was considered too cold and wet to grow great grapes even though it is close to the same latitude as Burgundy, France. In 1965, David and Diana Lett picked up on this distinction and planted 3,000 Pinot noir vines in 1965 at The Eyrie Vineyard near Dundee. Other early wine pioneers included Dick Erath, the Knudsens, and the Sokol Blossers.

  A key factor in the early development of the Willamette Valley was the passage in Oregon of the Land Conservation and Development Act (Senate Bill 100). Signed into law on May 29, 1973, this bill set aside land for future agricultural use.

  This AVA’s last recorded harvest resulted in 84,328 tons, which represents 73.5% of the state’s total crop. The majority of grapes planted are Pinot noir (70%) followed by Pinot gris (16%) and Chardonnay (7.5%). In recent years, some growers have been experimenting with other varietals like Pinot blanc, Riesling, Melon, Gewürztraminer, sparkling wine, Sauvignon blanc, Syrah, and Gamay..

  The region’s general attributes that make this valley ideal for growing cool climate grapes include the protection provided by the Coast Range mountains to the west, the Cascade Mountains to the East, and a series of lower hills at the extreme north of the valley. Drew Voit, Owner/Winemaker, Harper Voit Winery (McMinnville, OR) has been making wine for over twenty-five years, as well as consulting with other wineries situated throughout the Willamette Valley. In his estimation, the Willamette Valley represents the Goldilocks zone in terms of climate and latitude. “We have a particularly long growing season with a cool climate, mild winters, warm and dry summers.”

  Furthermore, the unique characteristics of each of the 11 nested AVAs allow for a surprising wide range of wine expressions. As Voit observes, “There’s diversity even within neighboring vineyards. You really have to listen to each vineyard and embrace the terroir of that particular site.”

  From 2005 to 2006, six sub-AVAs were formed: Dundee Hills, Yamhill-Carlton, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Chehalem Mountains and Eola-Amity Hills.

Dundee Hills AVA: The Dundee Hills AVA has the distinction of being where the first grapes in the Willamette Valley were planted, and it remains the most densely planted locale in Oregon. The region’s Jory soils are formed in colluvium derived from basic igneous rock resulting in well-drained very deep soils. This soil was named after Jory Hill, a town in Marion Country named after the Jory family who settled this area in 1852. Voit states how this AVA’s soil produces powerful red fruit with strong floral notes and a classic balance.

Ribbon Ridge AVA: With only 500 planted acres, this AVA nestled within the Chehalem Mountains AVA represents the smallest AVA in Oregon, as well as one of the most prestigious wine growing regions in the world. Most vineyards in this AVA are protected climatically by the larger landmasses surrounding it, and are dry farmed due to the lack of aquifers. The area is comprised primarily of the Willakenzie series of well-drained and moderately deep sedimentary soils that are ideal for growing complex Pinot noirs with earth notes of dark cherry and rose petal.

Yamhill-Carlton AVA: Situated at the foothills of the Coastal range, the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, contains around 60,000 acres centered around the hamlets of Carlton and Yamhill. This region was known for logging, nurseries, fruit tree orchards, wheat fields, and logging until 1974 when Pat and Joe Campbell and Roy and Betty Wahle planted Elk Cove Vineyard and Wahle Vineyard respectively. In Voit’s estimation, this region produces intense, dark and rich grapes similar to Ribbon Ridge, though he adds that the wines from Yamhill and Carlton may have similar marine sediments, but they possess different and distinctive aromatic tones.

McMinnville AVA: This AVA begins a few miles to the west of McMinnville and then extends approximately 20 miles south-southwest toward the mouth of the Van Duzer Corridor. This AVA’s most prominent geological feature is the Nestuca Formation, a 2,000-foot bedrock formation consisting of weathered volcanic and sedimentary soil that sits on top of marine bedrock. Pinot noir grapes harvested from this AVA tend to exhibit darker fruit flavors and a strong backbone of tannin rounded out by earth, spice, and mineral notes due to the AVA’s drier and cooler temperatures.

Chehalem Mountains AVA: This AVA’s history dates back to 1968 when Dick Erath purchased 49 acres on Dopp Road in Yamhill County that he named Chehalem Mountain Vineyard. He was joined by other pioneers in the 1970s, including the Adelsheim and Ponzi families. The Chehalem Mountains AVA was formally approved in 2006. The Chehalem Mountains are made up of several spurs, ridges, and hilltops with the tallest point Bald Peak, at 1,633-feet above sea level. These features shelter the vineyards from the high winds that blow south through the Columbia Gorge. The soils found throughout this AVA consist of marine sedimentary soils, volcanic soils, and a series of loess called Laurelwood, which is a a geologically younger windblown silty soil of glacial origin.

Eola-Amity Hills AVA: While this agricultural history of this area near Salem dates back to the mid-1850s, winemakers like Don Byard of Hidden Springs didn’t discover this region as an ideal place for growing high-quality wine grapes until the 1970s. The soils of the Eola-Amity Hills consist predominantly of volcanic basalt from ancient lava flows. This feature when combined with alluvial deposits and marine sedimentary rocks results in a rockier and shallower well-drained soils that result in small grapes that are highly concentrated. As Voit observes, this AVA, is impacted by the Pacific Ocean influence where the winds rapidly cool the valley at night, thus helping the grapes retain their acidity as they ripen. “This produces wines with lots of spicy, savory and other non-fruit characteristics that are very compelling and distinctive.”

  From 2019 to 2022, five additional nested AVAs were formed: Van Duzer Corridor, Tualatin Hills, Laurelwood District, Lower Tom AVA and Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon.

The Van Duzer Corridor AVA: This AVA, which went into effect in 2019, consists primarily of marine sediments is a natural break in the Coast Range results in afternoon winds that are 40 to 50 percent stronger when compared to other Willamette Valley AVAs. Voit works extensively with this AVA that he describes as the most Pacific Ocean influenced place in the Valley. “If a vineyard is in the windward blast zone of those strong breezes, there’s rapid cooling in the evening and howling winds. The winds are a little more delicate on leeward side of the hills.” This wind variability leads diverse wines that are both compelling and distinctive with an overall a cooling afternoon effect that dries out the vine canopy and degrees the presence of fungus, along with thickening the grape skins, which produces and abundance of tannin and anthocyanins (color).

The Tualatin Hills AVA: 2020 marked the approval of the Tualatin Hills AVA, a 15-mile stretch of land situated in the far Northwestern corner of the Willamette Valley that is is defined by the watershed of the Tualatin River with an elevation range between 200 and 1,000 feet. This AVA has a lower rainfall, cooler springtime temperatures and more temperate and drier weather during fall harvest as it’s sheltered by the Coast Range and Chehalem mountains. In addition, this AVA features the largest concentration in Oregon of Laurelwood soil, which is a windblown volcanic soil mixed with basalt (loess) deposited by the Missoula Floods at the end of the last ice age.

Laurelwood District AVA: In this same year the Laurelwood District AVA, which comprises more than 25 wineries and 70 vineyards, got approved as a result of petitioning by Ponzi Vineyards and Dion Vineyards. This AVA nested within the Chehalem Mountains AVA comprises more than 25 wineries and 70 vineyards with Laurelwood soil as the predominant soil found on the north- and east-facing slope of the Chehalem Mountains. The Laurelwood District AVA encompasses over 33,000 acres and includes the highest elevation in the Willamette Valley, at 1,633 feet. Laurelwood soil is composed of a 15-million-year-old basalt base with a loess (windblown freshwater silt) top layer accumulated over the past 200,000 years and at depths of 4’ to 0” depending on the elevation.

Lower Long Tom AVA: The next AVA to be approved was the Lower Long Tom AVA, which was established in November 2021 and is situated at the southern Willamette Valley. The AVA’s 24 vineyards are located on stream-cut ridge lines running east to west This AVA is situated within the west side of the Lower Long Tom Watershed and dominated by Bellpine soil. This term is used to describe moderately deep, well drained soils that are formed in the colluvium and residuum derived from sedimentary rocks. This region tends to have hotter days and cooler nights with more planting at higher evaluations. Voit observes how this combination tends to produce intense exotic wines that are unlike anything in the valley.

Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon:  The latest AVA is Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA established in June 2022. Located 15 miles west of Salem, Oregon, this AVA is defined by the rain shadow of Laurel Mountain to the west, a mild influence from the Van Duzer winds, and the warmth of the Willamette River. While this is the Valley’s second smallest AVA at 5,530 acres, it’s also one of the most densely planted AVAs was 584 acres planted with Willakenzie, Bellpine, and Jory, along with some Nekia soils.

The Future of Willamette Valley Wine

  Even though the number of wineries in the Willamette Valley has doubled since 2005, most wineries fall into the boutique category producing under 5,00 cases a year with many of the vineyards and wineries remaining family owned and operated. Prior to 1990 only two major Pinot noir clones represented the vast majority of Pinot noir grapes produced in the Willamette Valley Since then, these vineyards now plant over a dozen varieties of Pinot nor clones.

  As a testament to this region’s commitment to sustainability and regenerative agriculture, Oregon produces 1% of wine made in US but is home to 52% of Demtmer Certified Biodynamic wineries. Other similar initiatives include Salmon Safe, which promotes products made without pesticides or causing runoff that would harm salmon and LIVE (LoW Impact Viticulture and Enology) certification of sustainable practices.

  In Voit’s estimation, the quality of vineyard farming and winemaking has exponentially grown and expanded resulting in wines with fewer technical flaws. “This is partly because the industry is older. But also, climate change put us into a position where we need to understand how to deal with very difficult seasons,” Voit says.

  In celebration of this region’s bounty, the International Pinot Noir Celebration was launched in 1987 as an annual summer celebration held in July that brings together international Pinot Noir producers, Northwest chefs, and wine aficionados for a celebratory educational weekend. Also in 2000, a group of Oregon wineries launched Oregon Pinot Camp, a weekend of presentations, seminars, and tastings dedicated to Pinot Noir. While this event was designed as a one-time event but has since become an annual summer event.

  As a sign of the region’s push towards diversity, the Willamette Valley is host to the Asian American Pacific Islanders Food and Wine Fest in May, the Queer Wine Fest in June, and the Women in Wine: Fermenting Change in Oregon Conference in July. Other Willamette Valley wine events reported in earlier issues of The Grapevine Magazine include Women in Wine (May/June 2023) and Alt Wine Festival (March/April 2023) with upcoming events posted at the Willamette Valley Wine’s website at https://www.willamettewines.com/things-to-do/events

Effective Tools to Combat Vinyard Pests

mealybugs on grapevine

By: Cheryl Gray

No vineyard wants to watch its profits disappear. Yet, left undetected, pests can feed and multiply on the fruit, vine, leaf, root and even the soil of vineyard plants. While many of these threats are undetectable to the naked eye, the end result is all too visible. Pests multiply, spread disease and ultimately cost vineyards money through lost crops and vineyard plants.  

  Scientists have long considered what methods work best for grape growers who want to protect their crops without harming the environment. Multiple studies have been published, including those from the National Center for Biotechnical Information, which is under the umbrella of the National Institutes of Health. Those studies point to multiple defense strategies, specifically, ways to increase the populations of natural predators as well as the controlled use of biochemicals. These methods aim to destroy microorganisms and pests by targeting their ability to reproduce. The first and most important rule of engagement is knowing the enemy. 

  Among the most destructive pests for vineyards are mealybugs. Experts say these culprits can travel from vineyard to vineyard, sometimes on equipment, vineyard workers or by whatever means they can hitch a ride. The first stop for these pests is usually the vine trunk wood, where they set up during the winter. As early as spring, the mealybugs make their way onto the canopy. Before long, they wind up on the grapes, where they infect the fruit with egg sacs and larvae. Left uncontrolled, mealybug infestations can not only reduce crop yield but can also lead to plant stress and, ultimately, plant death.

  Scientists say that natural enemies of these vineyard wreckers include a predator beetle known as the “mealybug destroyer.” Its scientific moniker is Cryptolaemus Montrouzieri. Another natural predator is a parasite known as the Anagyrus wasp. Both are produced by the millions each year by a California cooperative, Associates Insectary, which specializes in integrated pest management systems.

  Associates Insectary, founded in 1928, brands itself as the only producer of the mealybug destroyer beetle in the United States. The co-op, headquartered in Santa Paula, California, says it has the capability to ship these and other beneficial insects not only to its regional customers but also to global markets throughout North America, Central America and Asia.

  How does IPM work in the vineyard using natural predators? For mealybug control, the battle is all about appetite. The mealybug destroyer beetle basically eats through an infestation of mealybugs, feasting on every stage, from egg sacs to larvae to fully grown pests. The female beetles lay more than 400 eggs, making for a ready army to combat mealybugs.

  Unlike the Anagyrus wasp, in which only the female wasps attack mealybugs (by laying eggs inside them), an entire “family” of mealybug destroyer beetles – male, female, juvenile and adult beetles—literally feed on these pests. Many IPM programs use a combination of the destroyer mealybug beetle and the parasitic wasp to fight mealybugs.

  Another benefit to deploying mealybug destroyer beetles in the vineyard is that they go undetected by ants, which have a symbiotic relationship with the mealybug. Again, it is about one insect feeding off another. Ants consume the honeydew that the mealybug secretes, the same honeydew that can destroy grapevines. In exchange for an unending food source, the ants defend mealybugs from other predators – all except the mealybug destroyer beetles. 

  Controlling the ant population that defends its mealybug “meal ticket” is a separate challenge for vineyards. Among the most destructive ant species to vineyards is the Argentine ant, which became more prevalent in California vineyards during the late 1980s. Containing an ant population in the vineyard usually requires a controlled chemical application, including bait systems and spray options.

  The Entomological Society of America (ESA) has published studies about the Argentine ant and its impact on vineyards, particularly in California. As the largest organization of its kind in the world, the ESA is focused on serving the professional and scientific needs of entomologists and individuals in related disciplines. This, of course, includes grape growers who need to know how to rid their vineyards of pests without harming the environment.

  In the case of Argentine ants, experts say it is important to recognize that ant colonies operate with a hierarchy all their own. While chemical sprays can kill or repel forager ants, the ones that go out for food, those ants are easily replaced with other foragers. Moreover, entomologists note that foraging ants comprise only a small number of ant colonies. This means that spray applications may be somewhat limited in that they are not likely to affect either the queen ants or larvae protected within the ant colonies. The other downside of sprays is that some chemicals can break down within 30 days and harm beneficial insects and the environment.

  Experts say that baits offer an alternative to sprays. Many contain a slow-acting insecticide with the idea that once an ant comes in contact with the bait, it will bring that bait back to the nest, expose it to other ants and, as a result, more ants die. The added plus is that the small amount of insecticide in baits is unlikely to impact either the environment or the natural predators that attack mealybugs and other pests. 

  Suterra is an Oregon-based company that specializes in providing a comprehensive IPM program that includes controlling ants in the vineyard with bait deployment. The type of bait and overall treatment is contingent upon the species of ant being treated and the location of the vineyard.

  Suterra produces hundreds of products that are used by its agricultural clients worldwide, including more than 400,000 acres just in the state of California. Part of its lineup includes products manufactured to disrupt the mating pattern of mealybugs by imitating chemicals known as pheromones. Pheromones are naturally occurring chemicals emitted by organisms that allow them to connect within the same species. The chemicals serve multiple functions, including searching for food sources, identifying potential dangers and finding a potential mate.

  Suterra’s Celada™ VMB vapor dispenser works by deploying a continuous synthetic pheromone release that is designed to disrupt the mating pattern among mealybugs. The idea is to confuse the males by keeping them away from the females of the species. The Celada™ VMB vapor dispenser lasts for a full year and is designed to blend into the vineyard with its unique color and shape. Suterra has other products designed to disrupt the mating patterns of mealybugs, such as CheckMate® VMB-F, a sprayable microencapsulated formula and CheckMate® VMB-XL, a membrane dispenser. The active ingredient in both products is a synthetic replica of the sexual reproduction pheromone of the mealybug.

  When vineyards consider what equipment to use to combat pests, multiple factors come into play, such as vineyard size, specific needs and, of course, how much of its budget is devoted to pest control. Spray Innovations has answers. The company,

headquartered in Grand Island, Nebraska, not only services the cattle industry but also other agricultural sectors, including grape growers. It has been

operating for some 40 years. Chris Whiting is the sales manager for the company and shares details about some of its popular products and how they save time and money for clients.

  “Our most popular sprayers for vineyards are our 10-nozzle dual volutes,” Whiting said. “This volute allows the grower to drive down the row and spray both sides with one pass, reducing time in the field. We have several models available in our Little Hercules engine-driven line (rope or electric start versions available) and our PTO-driven line.”

  He went on to share, “Our sprayers are all built in-house at our Grand Island, Nebraska location. We fabricate 90 percent of the parts that go into our sprayers, which cuts down on costs. We sell most of our sprayers directly, so there is no middleman, and we can keep the cost down. Our frames are powder-coated and include a 10-year warranty. Our volutes are all made with galvanized sheet metal, which is more rigid and can take more abuse than volutes made out of plastic.”

  Customers of Spray Innovations include Krista Hartman, co-owner of Red River Wines and Provisions at the Hartman Vineyard in Sadler, Texas. She gives the Spray Innovations P-D15-611 Mist Sprayer a “thumbs up” for performance. 

  “The fine mist and powerful fan system deliver uniform and thorough coverage with all my spray program products,” Hartman said. “I love how I can turn off either volute individually for end rows or a specific target area if needed. This was a big investment for my small vineyard operation, and well worth it. I save time, use less product, feel safer while spraying and keep my canopy as healthy as the elements allow, thanks to this terrific machine.”

  Whether using chemical applications or natural predators, grape growers can deploy an arsenal of weapons to fight vineyard pests from fruit to root. Understanding timing, weather, equipment use and appropriate application of either biochemicals or the release of natural enemies all affect results.

The Beaujolais “Nouvelle” Generation

man pouring wine in crowded place

By: Tod Stewart

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! Readers of a certain vintage may recall the pandemonium at the local wine purveyor upon the unleashing of that phrase. It was the official annual call for wine lovers to storm the shelves and grab as many bottles as possible (or cases) of the year’s first ferment.

  Beaujolais nouveau was never (and still isn’t) a particularly great wine, but then again, it wasn’t meant to be. The wine itself was simply “a means to an event,” for lack of a better way to state it. Originally meant to celebrate the vintage and slake the thirst of the French workers who’d been toiling in the vineyards, Beaujolais nouveau morphed into an international phenomenon, spawning a plethora of fun, fruity, fast-fermented wines around the globe – and also spawning global parties.

  A major bonus of the nouveau craze, insofar as the region’s winemakers were concerned, was the spreading of the word Beaujolais far and wide. The downside may have been that all Beaujolais started to become lumped together in the minds of consumers, leading to the incorrect assumption that, in spite of the wine’s (subtle) diversity, it was all fun, fruity, light and inconsequential.

  “I would agree on the fun and fruity description. Light, not so sure,” contends Phillippe Marx, commercial director for Vinescence, a 350-producer-strong cooperative established in 1929. With growers spread over 2,970 acres across the region, Vinescence is able to offer selections from every Beaujolais category. 

  “With the recent climate evolution, we have wines with 13 percent alcohol that I would not describe as light,” he suggests. (Indeed, I recently had one that was 14 percent.) “If you are speaking about the structure, yes, we have less structure and body than wines made from cabernet or zinfandel, but what we do have is elegance – something that a larger share of the consumers are looking for.”

  The profile of Beaujolais wines as being “elegant” rather than “opulent” stems from a couple of factors. The first is the grape variety used. The second has to do with what’s done with it.

  The Gamay grape (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, if you want to be precise) is the Beaujolais grape. Sure, there are plantings in other parts of France (notably the Loire Valley) and in pockets scattered around the globe (it does quite well in Ontario’s Niagara region). But in no other region is it as dominant as in Beaujolais. In fact, about 98 percent of all vines planted in the region are Gamay. Thin-skinned, early-ripening and moderately vigorous, Gamay, more often than not, yields red wines relatively high in acid, low in tannin and eminently fruity – both on the nose and in the mouth. The grape’s qualities are enhanced via a semi-carbontic fermentation process, where whole grape clusters (including stems) are, in the words of Jancis Robinson, MW, “…fermented whole, fast and relatively warm, with some pumping over and a high proportion of added press wine….” This can last for as little as three days (in the case of nouveau) and up to 16 for the more top-level cru Beaujolais.

  “The typical carbonic maceration of full grapes enables us to express all the aromatic potential of the Gamay grape,” Marx confirms. “In the last decade, we rediscovered the possibilities offered by using oak and some longer maceration time. For some of our crus like Morgon and Moulin à Vent, or some single vineyard wines, we are also working in a more Burgundian style of vinification, with destemming and longer skin contact. This adds more structure to the wine, and with soft oak aging, enables us to smooth the tannins and reveal the full depth of the wine. This approach enables us to take advantage of the versatility of Gamay, and give [it] the chance to show all [its] potential, from the soft juicy Chiroubles to the earthy Côte de Brouilly and the soft bodied Morgon,” he explains.

  Of course, the supple, easy-drinking nature of Beaujolais wines might have the “Napa cab crowd” dismissing them as less than “serious.” Marx responds to such criticism in a way that leaves me nodding (rather enthusiastically) in agreement. “Regarding serious, who said wine has to be serious? Wine is about sharing pleasure and good vibes. Serious is such an old way of approaching wine; a time when it was reserved for serious [air quotes] people. Beaujolais is a wine that speaks to all consumers – young and old – who are looking just to enjoy a nice glass or to discover the complexity that a mature Gamay wine can offer.”

  Delving a bit more deeply into what differentiates the styles of various Beaujolais wines – from Beaujolais to Beaujolais-Villages, to the ten crus de Beaujolais – Marx notes that a winemaker aims for different outcomes depending on the pedigree of the wine being produced.

  “We at Vinescence have the chance to produce all the wines from Beaujolais, from Beaujolais Nouveau to each of the single crus. When producing Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, you are trying to extract something different than when you produce, for example, a single vineyard Morgon. For the first ones, you look to keep the fruit and the freshness. For the other one, you are trying to have more extraction and reveal all the potential.

  This potential is the combination of the soil, the exposure and the altitude. So yes, nature gives you a different potential, and with your specific vinification style, you try to express the best of this potential. For instance, we age some of our crus in oak barrels to underline the structure, but we decided that this is not an option for our Beaujolais Villages. This is not what we are looking for in a villages-level wine. In Beaujolais we are fortunate to have a whole spectrum of different profiles due to that combination of natural elements – our role is to express them in the best possible way.”

Speaking of different profiles, there’s also been increased interest in Beaujolais Rosé and especially Beaujolais Blanc.

  “Beaujolais Rosé remains, in my opinion, a niche market. We are not competitive on prices because of our limited yield,” admits Cathy Lathuiliere, owner and winemaker for Domaine de Lathuiliere-Gravallon, an estate that dates back to 1875. “On the other hand, it is another story for Beaujolais Blanc, which is becoming more and more in demand. Indeed it is a chardonnay similar to Bourgogne wine, which is becoming more and more inaccessible in terms of price. Some customers who previously bought a generic white Burgundy at a reasonable price have switched to Beaujolais Blanc, which can be an excellent alternative.”

  In fact, one of the tenants of “Beaujolais Nouvelle Generation” – the ten-year roadmap developed by Inter Beaujolais (the Beaujolais wine council) is to diversify the region’s wine portfolio by placing additional emphasis on rosé (short-term goal) and white wines (mid- to long-term goal).

  Of course, one element the winemakers of Beaujolais have had to contend with (touched on earlier in the story) – and one with which they have no control over is the effect of climate change. Interestingly, winemakers in the region do not necessarily see this as a bad thing for them, understanding that it’s not the ideal situation globally.

  “We have observed during the decade a global warming, [that it] is totally beneficial for Beaujolais,” says Lathuiliere-Gravallon. “Now we make more balanced wines, with a little less acidity. Unfortunately, this warming has reduced the yield due to frost and hail, not to mention drought conditions.”

  Marx points out that when he came to Beaujolais 35 years ago, harvest started mid-to-late September. The past vintage harvest started in mid-August. While he concedes the extra warmth ultimately leads to wines with more structure, there are some new challenges to deal with. “We need to work harder during vinification to maintain the balance between freshness and body, fruit and structure,” he notes.

  While Beaujolais producers can’t directly alter the effects of climate change, they can work together to ensure the byproducts of their profession contribute as little environmental impact as possible. In fact, winemakers in the region have taken an active role in developing and encouraging sustainable practices on their own, initially with no government encouragement or support. Today, they are leaders in promoting positive environmental, economic and social aspects relating to their industry.

  Marx made some good points a few paragraphs back about the “serious” nature of wine. At the risk of going off on a personal opinion tangent (but since I’m the writer, why not?), when you consider the rather “serious” state of the world these days, maybe what we could all use is a large glass (or three) of a wine that has been fermented for one reason only: to bring pleasure. It’s not meant to be analyzed, collected, cellared or (shudder) scored. A few good, fruity gulps of Beaujolais Nouveau (slightly chilled) might be just what the doctor ordered. Of course, this year le Beaujolais Nouveau n’est pas arrivé! – at least here in Ontario (due to supply chain, inflation, Putin or COVID – pick one…or all). But thankfully, there are plenty of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages and crus de Beaujolais to keep the party rolling.