Month: January 2024

Biochemistry Offers a New Defense

Cyndi

Arming Vineyards with the Best Weapons Against Their Worst Enemies

By: Cheryl Gray

Left unchecked, an army of an invasive species as tiny as an eighth of an inch can destroy acres upon acres of vineyard grapes. We are talking about the dreaded mealybug.

  There are multiple species of this unwelcome guest, and the potential for each to wreck a grape crop is all too real. Some experts say that among the worst of the bunch is the vine mealybug. In the United States, some of the worst infestations are found in California and, more recently, in Oregon. However, this pest is a globe-trotter. According to the University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, the vine mealybug is found in grape-growing regions of the Mediterranean, Europe, Africa, the Middle East, South Africa, Pakistan, and Argentina. Researchers explain that the vine mealybug can infect every part of the grapevine, producing massive quantities of a clear, sugary secretion called honeydew, which destroys the grapes and the foliage all around it.

  Fortunately, there are companies who have the expertise in equipping vineyards with biological weapons to combat this threat. Pacific Biocontrol Corporation, headquartered in Vancouver, Washington, manufactures ISOMATE VMB for grape growers who are ready to upgrade their arsenal. The company, in business for nearly 40 years, considers itself one of the original pheromone corporations and a global leader in the science of manipulating naturally occurring chemicals known as pheromones. Pheromones are emitted by organisms that allow them to talk to each other within their own species. The chemicals serve multiple functions, such as locating sources of food, detecting likely dangers – and finding a potential mate. Pacific Biocontrol Corporation zeroes in on the latter.

  Jeannine Lowrimore is a technical sales representative for Pacific Biocontrol in the company’s Northern California sales region. She holds a Bachelor of Science degree in entomology from UC Davis and has more than 20 years of pheromone experience.

  Lowrimore breaks down the details of how treacherous the vine mealy bug can be to vineyards and how ISOMATE VMB works to virtually eliminate this pest.

  “This key pest is the most prolific in having more generations in a season, more eggs per female and producing copious amounts of honeydew. Not only do they reduce fruit quality and marketability, but, more importantly, they transmit devasting viruses, including grapevine leafroll-associated virus 3 (GLRaV-3). They are efficient vectors and can transmit viruses within one hour of feeding. VMB can be easily spread within blocks and moved by birds, crews, and equipment to neighboring vineyards.

  Once VMB is established in a vineyard, it is nearly impossible to eradicate due to its ability to live under bark and in the roots where insecticide treatments cannot always reach. For this reason, it’s best to take preventative measures to reduce VMB infestations from the start.”

  Lowrimore describes how ISOMATE VMB uses biochemistry to disrupt mating among the vine mealybugs, which is key, she says, to eradicating this cryptic pest from vineyards.

  “Pheromone mating disruption is a key component of IPM programs and fits with sustainability models and certifications. Pheromone mating disruption works best in low-moderate populations by preventing male VMB flyers from finding the females for mating. Growers are now open to incorporating pheromones in new plantings to implement this prevention program to ‘stay clean.’ Growers with light VMB pressure are also excellent candidates and should consider adding pheromone to their management program to maintain and reduce populations from spreading.”

  Lowrimore recommends that vineyards under attack from a high concentration of vine mealy bugs, should consider using ISOMATE VMB in combination with an aggressive insecticide program that will help in reducing VMB populations over multiple seasons.

  “Pheromones should be considered an additional tool to an insecticide program. ISOMATE VMB dispensers have proven longevity to last 200 plus days in cooler growing regions and fill in the ‘gaps’ between insecticide treatments. Having pheromone coverage into the large and critical fall flight is imperative and this is where ISOMATE VMB has excelled. When growers deploy dispensers in March or April, they can have a ‘set it and forget it’ pheromone program that covers them into November and won’t hinder harvest activities.”

  She explains how the product is dispensed throughout the typical vineyard and how it has earned a global reputation for its effectiveness.

  “ISOMATE VMB is deployed at a rate of 120 to 200 dispensers per acre depending upon VMB pressure. This variable rate allows growers to economically address VMB populations without compromising on efficacy.

  ISOMATE dispensers have been used for numerous pests worldwide for over 30 years. They are known for their consistent release of pheromones and ease of deployment. ISOMATE VMB longevity is supported by trap data, in-season gravimetric weighing and gas chromatography ionization detection (GC-FID). Understanding and monitoring the release rates of the dispenser is imperative in having a reliable product year after year.”

  Lowrimore says that the mission of Pacific Biocontrol is to increase the use of its products designed to disrupt the mating of vine mealy bugs by educating grape growers on how a pheromone program can impact production. Lowrimore adds that the company partners with academia, industry, and growers, establishing regional pest management programs where pheromone mating disruption can benefit whole communities.

  Clients of Pacific Biocontrol include fruit and nut growers ranging from small operations to large-capacity production farms.

Another company with expertise in deploying biological solutions to combat vineyard pests is BioSafe Systems, a family-owned and operated firm headquartered in East Hartford, Connecticut. The company has worked over 25 years innovating sustainable chemistry designed to supplement conventional methods in fighting vineyard organisms that threaten crops. 

  BioSafe Systems also considers itself a steward of the environment. Its line of products includes Oxidate 5.0 and PerCarb. Both focus on improving wine grape production. The GreenClean Alkaline Cleaner and Sanidate 5.0 are used in winery facilities.

  BioSafe Systems officials stress that the company conducts perpetual vineyard crop protection research throughout the nation to demonstrate the efficacy of its products. Its vineyard protection brands are formulated to guard and improve soil quality by creating an optimal ground environment in which grape plants can thrive. The company was recently awarded U.S. Patent Number 11439151 B2, entitled “Process for Treating an Agricultural Medium.” The patent acknowledges the company’s Restorative Soils Program™ (RSP) as a vital tool for the future of the industry.

  Company officials explain that the process begins with a soil treatment of aqueous peroxyacetic acid (PAA) to diminish the levels of soilborne plant pathogenic organisms. The next step is to apply complementary beneficial rhizobacteria and biostimulants to the soil to fortify a diverse soil ecosystem that supports and promotes optimal plant health.  The BioSafe Systems’ Restorative Soils Program™ is designed to rebalance and enhance soil’s microbiome to deliver a solid foundation to protect the investment that vineyards in planting grapes.

  Sarah Budde Rodriguez, Ph.D., is a field development specialist for BioSafe Systems. Her expertise is in plant pathology. Dr. Rodriguez explains why the Restorative Soils ProgramTM works to achieve optimal grape production.

  “The Restorative Soils Program is the ideal footing to build upon when replanting and establishing new vines. It begins with a soil treatment using TerraStart® HC or OxiDate® 5.0 to diminish soilborne plant pathogenic organisms. Next, an application TerraGrow® Liquid, a blend of beneficial rhizobacteria and biostimulants, is introduced to promote optimal plant health. The process is especially important in the first few seasons following new plantings to support the establishment of healthy new vines, while it can also be repeated during the vines’ lifespan, to bolster the health and quality of the vineyard through the years. The Restorative Soils Program™ (RSP) is the foundation of a comprehensive integrated pest management plan providing the tools needed to fight soilborne pathogens, improve rhizosphere dynamics and reinforce plant health.”

  One more company with an organic approach to helping growers is Live Earth Products, Inc., based in Utah. The family-run business mines and manufactures humic acid and fulvic acid-based products. Humate is a mined mineral that experts say is used to help improve nutrient retention and water conservation. Humates are used to reduce fertilizer loss and add organic matter to improve water conservation. 

  Live Earth Products started as a small operation but now has clients all over the world. Russell Taylor, whose father launched the company shortly after a deadly mining accident in 1984, is the company’s vice president. Taylor was recently awarded the 2023 CCA Conservationist of the Year Award. 

  “In the late ’80s and ’90s, promoting soil health and fertilizer reduction was not a common item discussed by farmers,” he said. “My father was a visionary far ahead of his time, and I can assure you that selling humate was not extremely profitable at the time. The good news is that we persevered. Our products are now sold internationally.”

  Taylor explains that Live Earth Products has three core offerings: Humate Soil Conditioner, Liquid 6 (humic acid) and LM-32 AG (fulvic acid). While all three products are used by conventional growers, they are also OMRI-listed for use in organic agriculture. Liquid 6 is popular among growers because humic acid helps to improve micronutrient availability. LM-32 is a liquid fulvic acid that is naturally pH 3.0 and is used not only in agriculture but also in other industries, such as cosmetics.

  The science of biochemistry plays a vital role in fighting on multiple fronts to protect grapes from harm. At the same time, there are companies that also focus on protecting the environment around vineyards and beyond.

The Producers’ Blind Spot

Cyndi

The Role of the Municipality and Local Ordinances and the Producers’ Operational Goals

picture entitled zoning ordinance zoning and land use planning

By:  Louis J. Terminello, Esq. and Bradley Berkman, Esq.

Let’s face it, many of us, likely including the writer(s) and readers alike, find the making of wine, beer, and spirits not only to be a labor of love that allows oneself to create artistic expressions in bottles, but we also find the trade and its finished products to be pretty darn exciting. It’s very much a lifestyle industry, that, simply put, is fun.

  Even in the arena that this writer operates in – that is, alcohol beverage law – the romance of the trade is far from lost. There is, however, one especially important regulatory area that is often overlooked by beverage alcohol producers and even legal practitioners in the field: the role of municipal ordinances and zoning regulations and its impact on beverage alcohol sales, service, and for the purposes of this article, production. It is doubtful that many winemakers, distillers, and brewers find this topic engrossing but without proper guidance and planning, a misstep at the local level could lead to disastrous consequences.

  Briefly, most in the trade understand the role of the federal and state governments, particularly those who produce beverages. Licensing schemes, reporting requirements, excise taxing structures, and trade practice issues (as in tied house) are all federal and state concerns. In fact, some local jurisdictions, namely cities and counties, do enforce local alcohol licensure and regulatory schemes that some readers may be aware of, but that is not the focus of this article. The issues that require parsing out in the limited space here are land use concerns and the various local administrative processes and procedures that affect all actors in the alcohol industry. Put another way, package stores, bars, restaurants, wineries, breweries, and distilleries alike must comport themselves and comply with local ordinances and zoning regulations.

Advent of Craft

  And along came the craft producer, and the spider sat down beside her. The rise of craft wineries, distilleries, and breweries has brought about a nuanced set of local challenges, encompassing aspects such as production facilities, warehousing for potential distribution, and the popular tasting room –often referred to as the bar. Not to be overlooked at the craft venue, are food sales in the various forms that they could take, including a restaurant on the premises or the ubiquitous food truck.

Zoning Districts-What are they?

  With the municipal jurisdiction in mind, i.e., a city or county, one must carefully analyze the zoning district within the city or county that is the site of the proposed operation, prior to commencing any real investment in building out the facility. Of course, an essential part of this process is having a detailed business plan that outlines all operational issues of the facility. A full understanding of the contemplated uses is essential. In land use terms, a use can be best described as the economic activity permitted in the zoning district. Sticking to our theme, as applied to a typical craft operation, “uses” may include activities such as “manufacturing” and “retail” operations, as examples.

  With the above in mind, many counties and cities are delineated into zoning districts. A zoning district, in simplified terms, is a local subdivision of a municipality where certain activities or uses are permitted within the subdivision, and by extension, some activities or uses may be precluded. Staying with the craft production analysis, some zoning districts may permit manufacturing uses and not retail, while in others, retail may be permitted but not manufacturing and, in some districts, neither may be permitted at all. By now, the prospective manufacturer should realize that aligning all desired operational uses with the zoning district is essential before build-out. Imagine investing significantly in a wine production facility where the contemplated revenue stream is to come from tasting room sampling and sales, only to discover late in the build-out process that the retail sales of alcohol are not permitted within the zoning district. Someone is about to lose their job!

  Other considerations that the readers are likely familiar with, as applied to alcohol, are distance requirements. Virtually every municipality and the zoning district within has distance separation requirements from alcohol businesses and certain other types of venues such as schools, religious establishments, and other alcohol beverage licensees. Being aware of these requirements is mandatory prior to commencing any construction on a sort of alcohol facility. As stated, lack of knowledge of the foregoing will lead to problems.

Available Remedies to Certain Land Use Problems

  In certain instances, contemplated producer operational uses are not permitted by right. That is to say, and using this as one example, the retail sales of alcohol from a tasting room may not be automatically permitted in a zoning district. However, certain administrative procedures may be available to the producer that will allow for specific uses within the zoning district only after process and approval.

  These exceptions generally take the form of conditional use permits or special exceptions. These administrative remedies may be available depending on local ordinances. These exceptions usually require an extensive application process and public hearings before zoning boards and city commissions where the public generally can attend and offer support, or criticism and objection, to a desired operation. These procedures are quasi-judicial in nature, where arguments are heard and made by the producer and the producer’s counsel to board members and the commission. As noted, the commission may approve the proposed operation and issue a conditional use permit. As the name suggests, these permits come with conditions affixed that must be complied with. If they are not, the holder then risks cancellation of the permit. Negotiating conditions is an integral part of the process between the local government and the producer. Clearly, the goal is to not include conditions that adversely affect operational objectives. It is worth noting that these are quasi-judicial proceedings. Records of the proceedings are established, and should the commission deny the issuance of a permit for a stated and unsubstantiated reason, the applicant has the ability to take the matter to state court and appeal the decision.

  Other remedies to zoning restrictions include perhaps the familiar “variance.” Back to our craft operation… imagine that you’ve located the perfect wine-making facility. All the stainless steel tanks fit nicely in the plant space, the layout allows for the contemplated bottling line, and just by chance, there’s a perfect space that can be the dedicated tasting room. The only problem is that the Church of the Sacred (pick your deity), is within 100 feet of the tasting room and as such, retail sales of alcohol are not ordinarily permitted. Well, if available, a variance could be the solution. In essence, a variance is a request to deviate from the specific zoning requirements within the zoning district. The process generally includes public notice and hearing but is a potential solution to all sorts of distance separation requirements.

  The above is merely a basic primer on zoning and land use issues that may affect wine, spirits, and beer production and sales issues. Municipal matters and zoning issues are complex areas of alcohol beverage law that are often overlooked by producers of beverage alcohol. In the contemporary production environment, particularly in the craft area with its complex and mixed-use environment, a producer would be well served by doing their land use homework or working with experienced counsel prior to groundbreaking. After all, the goal is to sell the drink produced, not to drink it to numb the pain of poor land use planning.

Greece: A Wine Odyssey 

Cyndi
Picture of a greek god statue drinking out of a bowl

By: Tod Stewart

It’s hot. I mean, it’s really (expletive) hot. Hades hot. The afternoon sun, with not a cloud to diffuse its merciless heat, beats down on the vines. And on me. I’m not sure if vines sweat, but I’m starting to get just a tad sticky under the collar. Luckily, the vineyard’s elevation, combined with a modest breeze blowing off the Kassandra Gulf, offers a modest respite from my discomfort. The promise that we’d soon be heading back to the cool tasting room of Domaine Porto Carras to sample the fruits of the vine’s labors was also enticing.

  Greece in mid-July is typically hot. This year is record-breaking, as it has been through most of Europe. It might have been a bit uncomfortable at times, but the awesome scenery, fantastic food and, of course, the huge variety of top-quality wines more than made up for any negatives. (At some point, I’ll submit a piece on the pros and cons of being a food/drink/travel journalist…sometimes it’s not as romantic as it sounds.)

  I’m here in the northern part of the country, in Thessaloniki, to be exact, on a junket hosted by Greece and the European Union. My job was to learn more about the protected designation of origin (PDO) Slopes of Meliton and the protected geographical indication (PGI) Sithonia. I was about to get a thorough introduction to one of the area’s most important wineries.

Where I’m at now is in the PDO Slopes of Meliton region, a roughly circular area around Mount Meliton (which is about 120 kilometers southeast, more or less, of Thessaloniki). It’s located on the second finger of a three-fingered peninsula that looks just like the prongs of Poseidon’s trident into the crystalline Aegean. Within its boundaries lie the impressive Porto Carras Grand Resort and the equally impressive Domaine Porto Carras winery. The latter is the place I’m here to check out.

  Concluding my walk through some of the Domaine’s 450 hectares of organic vineyards, I head into the recesses of the winery to taste a range of impressive wines. These include a trio of crisp, fresh, melon/peach/mineral Assyrtikos, two vintages of the ripe, tropical, baking spice and baked apple-tinged Chateau Porto Carras Le Grand Blanc (a blend of Malagousia, Assyrtiko and the red Limnio) and a lemony/cherry/stone fruit Blanc de Noir (100 percent) Limnio.

  Assyerti-what? Malagou-who? You won’t be taken to task if you’re not exactly literate in the vernacular of Greek grape-speak. After all, the land is planted with over 300 indigenous grape varieties, most of which (okay, practically all of which) will be unfamiliar to non-Greek wine consumers (and likely winemakers). Sure, there are non-indigenous varieties, like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier, that are likely familiar to most (and likely pronounceable). But native varieties like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Monemvasia, Avgoustiatis, and maybe Mavrotragano certainly aren’t (yet) household names in North America and don’t exactly roll off the tongue the way chardonnay and merlot do.

  Of course you’ll likely not be bombarded with several hundred difficult-to-pronounce varietals when you begin your exploration of Greek wines.

  As far as black-skinned varieties go, you’re most likely to encounter Agiorgitiko, Limnio, Xinomavro and possibly Mantilaria.

  For whites, you’ll probably meet Assyrtiko, Robola, Moschofilero, and Roditis (the latter two are technically pink-skinned but typically wind up as white wines. More frequently, you’ll also encounter Malagousia.

  “Malagousia has essentially been taking the place of Moschofilero over the past 20 years or so,” observes Steve Kriaris, president of Kolonaki Group of Companies, one of the leading importers of Greek wines into Ontario. “It’s a bit more well-rounded than Moschofilero and ultimately has a little more to offer the consumer.”

  I’m back in Toronto five months after my sojourn and still itching for a way to recreate the “Greece Experience.” In fact, it was the desire of tourists to relive the memories they had of their time in Greece that, in part, led to the popularity of Greek wines on this side of the pond, according to Kriaris.

  “As the popularity of Greece as a tourist destination grew,” he said, “those returning brought fond memories of the experience back with them…including fond memories of some terrific wines, and they wanted to relive the memories at home.”

  It’s Sunday night, and Kriaris, myself and Joy MacDonald, Kolonaki’s national sales manager of fine wines and spirits, are sipping our way through a selection of some of Kolonaki’s latest offerings, ensconced in the wine cellar of a (surprisingly) jam-packed Mesez restaurant.

  Greece is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, with historical records dating production back some 6,500 years. Historically, wine became an integral part of Greek society, interwoven into its culture as it spread through the Mediterranean world. However, it wasn’t until fairly recently (starting mostly in the ’80s) that the Greek wine “renaissance” firmly took hold, and the world began to discover the quality and variety of Greek wines. Why the delay? Kriaris cites a couple of reasons.

  “The ’80s saw the first influx of younger Greek winemakers who had received their training outside of Greece, typically in Bordeaux and, to a lesser extent, Burgundy,” Kriaris explains. “They were not only exposed to more international styles of wine, but came home with the knowledge of how to make them, and they started crafting some really amazing wines.”

  The other reason we’ve already alluded to: the challenge of dealing with multiple tongue-twisting grape varieties planted throughout multiple regions. “There was so much to learn, and consumers felt overwhelmed,” Kriaris concedes. Things have changed pretty drastically these days, both in terms of Greece as an international player in the wine game and with consumers themselves.

  For the number-lovers out there, here we go:

•   1,617 wineries

•   more than 7,500 brands

•   17th largest producer

•   26th largest exporter

•   wine styles = white, red, rose, sparkling, sweet

(source: O.I.V. (2021) / Greek Wine Federation

  Growing consumer interest has also led to them focusing not just on establishing a comfort level with Greece’s indigenous grapes, but making the connection between specific varieties grown in specific areas. “The regionality of Greek wines has just begun,” Kriaris maintains. “Now it’s not just Assyrtiko or Malagousia, it’s Assyrtiko from this area, or Malagousia from that area.”

  While consumer sophistication and curiosity have fueled an interest in high-quality, modern-style wines, it can’t be ignored that the wine that historically became most closely associated with Greece (for good or bad) was undoubtedly retsina. Essentially a wine made from grapes must be treated with pine resin, often so much resin that one got the feeling that they were drinking pine sap rather than wine. But this, too, is changing.

  “Retsina used to be made without much thought,” Kriaris explains. “The amount of resin legally permitted ranged from 0.5 parts to one part per 35 ounces or so of must. That’s quite a range.” Of course, a good dollop of resin can mask numerous wine flaws, and bulk producers of the style tended to go heavy on the pine and light on the wine, as it were. And unfortunately, it was this style of retsina that ultimately hit the export market. In Kriaris’ words, “The bad juice left the country. Ultimately, what happened is that every major producer had to have a retsina in its portfolio, and the huge increase in volume resulted in an equally huge decline in quality.”

  However, the fate (and reputation) of retsina is changing. As every winemaker reading this knows, wine (any wine) is effectively a “garbage in, garbage out” situation. You can’t craft great wine from substandard fruit. And you can’t make a respectable retsina with lousy juice as the base. Today, serious retsina producers start with high-quality wine, often made from a single varietal, and the resin used (sparingly) comes from a specific strain of pine tree grown in limited areas. I’ve tasted some of these “modern” retsinas and can assure you that they are nothing like what most of us have probably experienced. They are typically floral, fruity and fragrant, with subtle notes of pine being a team player rather than the captain of the flavor profile.

  Domaine Porto Carras’ tagline is “New Era,” and it was explained, over the course of my tasting by CEO Sergei Smirnov, that this stood for a “new approach to everything,” not just a new approach to Greek winemaking. “New Era starts with people,” he noted, adding that the “connection between grapes and people matters.”

  Indeed, the modern Greek wine industry is certainly about connecting grapes to people because it’s still a bit of an undiscovered treasure waiting to be uncovered.

  “What I would say about Greek wine is that, in the wine world where everything seems to be just the same, there’s one country creating a huge new identity, varietal over varietal, region over region,” Kriaris concludes. “And that’s Greece. So if you want to get back to the fun of the wine world, which is what got us all here in the first place, and start exploring again, I’d say that a new journey now starts in the Greek wine world.”