December 2021 | Page 2 of 2 | The Grapevine Magazine

How and Why to Use Biologicals and Organics in the Vineyard

December 28, 2021April 16, 2025 Cyndi

By: Alyssa Ochs

As interest in sustainability continues to grow in the wine industry, an increasing number of vineyard owners have become curious about transitioning their operations toward more organic, biodynamic and regenerative agriculture practices. Meanwhile, professionals looking to establish new vineyards or alter certain aspects of their techniques may be interested to learn about the benefits and challenges of taking this kind of approach to increase the vitality of their land and promote the natural health of grapevines.

It’s important to understand what the use of biologicals and organics means in a vineyard setting and new innovations that are making this approach feasible for vineyards of all types and sizes. Fortunately, there are experienced companies and consultants available to guide vineyards through this process to achieve greater long-term sustainability.

Understanding Organic-Biological Viticulture

There are a lot of different terms used loosely to describe sustainable and environmentally friendly viticulture. These terms are commonly misunderstood and misconstrued, overshadowing the overarching goal of being as gentle on nature as possible during the grape-growing process. “Biological” refers to the science of living organisms and applying natural sciences to certain structures and processes. “Ecological” is the study of living beings within their environment and is commonly used to describe environmental protection. “Biodynamics,” as it relates to vineyards, involves using natural means and taking cues from nature for growing practices, such as star constellations and phases of the moon. “Biodynamic viticulture” typically means only using organic fertilizers and applying the principles of Austrian anthroposophist Rudolf Steiner to view all aspects of the vineyard as whole entity with a holistic approach. The purpose “organic viticulture” is to eliminate manmade chemicals and additives from the winemaking process. However, the legal definition of what qualifies as “organic wine” varies from one country to another.

Ultimately, there are various types of products, treatments and strategies that fall under the umbrella of biologicals and organics for winemaking.

For example, BioSafe Systems provides sustainable products that improve quality and are safe on the environment. Taylor Vadon, technical sales representative for BioSafe, told The Grapevine Magazine that botrytis, powdery and downy mildew are some of the most economically concerning pathogens to treat in grapes because they affect quality and visual appeal. BioSafe Systems’ two most effective organic fungicides are OxiDate5.0 and PerCarb to kill and suppress a broad spectrum of fungal and bacterial pathogens, even ones that may have developed resistance to other fungicides.

“OxiDate5.0 is a liquid that utilizes peroxyacetic acid and hydrogen to oxidize the outer cell membrane of vegetative bacterial and fungal cells, endospores, making it an effective all microorganisms,” Vadon said. “PerCarb is a water-soluble granular that when put into solution releases 27 percent hydrogen peroxide by weight to oxidize organisms like OxiDate 5.0 but is much more alkaline and leaves a five-to-seven-day residual to inhibit growth. Both OxiDate 5.0 and PerCarb leave no lasting effects on the environment and allow workers to return to the vineyard after sprays have dried, increasing productivity.”

Meanwhile, Acadian Plant Health is a division of Acadian Seaplants Limited and world leader in biostimulant solutions that are sustainably sourced and scientifically proven to increase crop survivability, yield and quality. The company’s products are used in soil and foliar inputs on over 70 crops in more than 80 countries worldwide

Holly Little, PhD, the director of research and development for Acadian, told The Grapevine Magazine that her company has seen had many grape-growers gravitate to Acadian® Organic and Stella Maris® Organic products, which offer all the benefits of the conventional product with organic certification and enhanced compatibility with other inputs.

“Some of the key benefits for sustainable growers are improvements in plant health, including improved root growth and nutrient uptake, as well as abiotic stress tolerance,” Little said. “There are also additional benefits with improved bunch elongation, which helps with airflow within the bunch, which helps limit the environment that diseases like to grow in.”

Little also said that there are some really interesting things occurring with soil health and soil microbes with regard to sustainability.

“We’ve found that the use of Acadian seaweed extracts stimulates the beneficial microbial populations,” she said. “This is a really unique response. Many times, people advocate adding soil microbes, but often the soil environment isn’t right for what you add, so it is only a temporary benefit. By altering the natural populations, we believe that this can be a more long-term and sustainable option.”

Benefits of a Biological/Organic Approach

Now, perhaps more than ever before, it is a good idea for vineyards to start recognizing the importance of biological and organic approaches in their operations and being open to the potential benefits offered.

Natalie Winkler from Traditional & Biodynamic Vineyard Consulting told The Grapevine Magazine that conventional farming through the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and insecticides kills life in the soil. This can result in deep compaction and loss of structure in topsoil, water runoff, erosion and the loss of farmable land. This consulting company specializes in the conversion and establishment of vineyards to organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming systems, with services ranging from “a la carte” to all-inclusive for each vineyard’s unique needs.

“Simply put, conventional farming is not sustainable because it degrades the soil continuously,” Winkler said. “In opposition, organic and especially biodynamic methods regenerate the soil by increasing microbial life, therefore organic matter, water retention capacity and vine nutrient uptake. Organic, regenerative and biodynamic farming allow us to grow a premium crop every year, while replenishing the soil so it can continue to produce for generations to come.”

Little from Acadian said that newer and non-traditional products can address the many grape-growing challenges become more numerous every year, such as improving plant and soil health and also aiding in the long-term sustainability of the vineyard.

“Acadian Plant Health’s products are a good fit for grape-growers looking for a more organic/sustainable management program or conventional program,” Little said. “They offer a range of benefits with one product, and application programs that can be tailored to achieve different objectives in a vineyard, making it easily adaptable to different growing styles and environments. The healthier plants are less susceptible to stress, including disease, and are more productive.”

Vadon from BioSafe pointed out that even if a vineyard defines itself as “conventional,” organic products may still be best fit for certain applications.

“In many cases, it has been documented that botrytis, powdery and downy mildews are developing resistance to certain FRAC groups,” Vadon said. “Fungicide resistance management starts with rotating fungicides with different FRAC groups, but in some cases, that is not enough. Using an organic broad spectrum contact fungicide mixed with a conventional fungicide that has the potential to develop resistance, strengthens spray programs by killing resistant and nonresistant organisms, thus reducing the chance for further mutational resistance to develop.”

Challenges of Sustainability in the Vineyard

However, many vineyard owners are concerned about whether sustainability measures will require more ongoing maintenance and upkeep, if they will be more time-consuming and whether the payoff will really be worth it in the end.

Winkler from Traditional & Biodynamic Vineyard Consulting said that the biggest challenges in transitioning vineyards to organic, regenerative and biodynamic farming are bringing life back into the soil and subsoil and promoting vine roots to grow deeper to access nutrients and water.

“The transition period can be stressful on vines because conventional vineyards are often addicted to synthetic fertilizers,” Winkler said. “Weening plants off of fertilizers takes time. The vines must be reeducated into becoming more independent.”

Winkler said that establishing an organic and biodynamic vineyard from scratch is much easier because getting started in this way from the beginning allows the vines to thrive in their environment because they are adapted to this natural way of farming.

Vadon from BioSafe said, “Many organic pesticides require more frequent applications to stay ahead of common pests found in the vineyards. If a vineyard has high mildew pressure and has not been sprayed for an extended period, some organic fungicides might not be able to manage to an acceptable level where others could.”

Vadon also said that knowing a product’s strength, such as being broad spectrum, and limitations, such as no residuals, is important for knowing how it fits into your vineyard’s program.

Little from Acadian pointed out that there are so many products on the market now that make a lot of different claims, so it is nearly impossible to differentiate between products that are effective or not. To address this issue, she recommends looking for data from real and replicated research, peer-reviewed science and on-farm demonstrations.

“Consistency of biological products can be another challenge,” said Little. “Natural products have an inherent variability, and not all manufacturing methods account for this. Ideally, a manufacturer can show consistency in physical characteristics and bioefficacy over manufacturing times and years. Acadian® Organic and Stella Maris® Organic have been through rigorous quality assurance, and the consistency of our products is of the utmost importance to Acadian Plant Health™.”

Sustainability Tips and Advice for Vineyards

Experts in the fields of biodynamics, eco-friendly agriculture and organic viticulture have been devising new solutions to common challenges so that these approaches are more practical and profitable for vineyards. Meanwhile, the professionals we consulted about sustainable viticulture had many helpful ideas about how to choose the right solutions for a vineyard and additional ways to focus on responsible grape-growing.

For example, Winkler from Traditional & Biodynamic Vineyard Consulting said that farm machinery focused on weed management has developed significantly in recent years.

“One can now find a perfectly adapted implement to almost every vineyard’s soil,” Winkler said. “The combination of a uniquely adapted weed management plan and the introduction of animal grazing can help with timely weed control and increase organic matter. This allows vineyards to move away from herbicide use and build soil health.”

Vadon from BioSafe said that sustainability comes in many forms but that one of the most important ways to practice it in a vineyard is to rotate a pesticide’s mode of action or in the case of fungicides, FRAC groups.

“Fungicides have different ways they kill an organism, and continually using the same mode of action back-to-back greatly increases the chances for developing mutational resistance,” Vadon said. “Reducing the chances of mutational resistance developing is the key to keeping the fantastic products available to us in the grape world, viable for years to come.”

Little from Acadian said that some of the best advice comes from other growers, so learn about their successes and failures and then evaluate how to incorporate their best practices into your operation. She recommended reviewing different products with a critical eye and experimenting with new things while keeping track of what works and what doesn’t.

“We have a number of different application programs depending on what the key benefits someone is looking for,” Little said. “Soil applications throughout the season are beneficial in building soil microbial populations and with plant stress resistance. Soil applications during natural root flush times will increase root growth leading to enhanced nutrient and water uptake. Foliar applications will help improve stress resistance, but also increase bunch length early season and help with uniformity of growth. When it makes sense for the grower, I recommend a combination of foliar and soil applications of Acadian Organic® or Stella Maris® Organic to gain the most benefits.”

Is Your Wine Club Keeping Up With Modern Subscription Models?

December 28, 2021April 16, 2025 Cyndi

By: Gaynor Strachan Chun

If COVID taught us nothing, it is that re-occurring sales are key to survival, and that customers are surprisingly resilient and creative with changes in channel or delivery methods. The post-COVID conversations around alcohol distribution include the so-called “fourth tier” of instantaneous delivery (Instacart), and online options like buy online now and pick up in store later (BOPUIS).

At the same time as these channels evolve, the elasticity of the traditional Wine Club is stretched as well. It is now estimated that the average person is a member of two re-occurring subscriptions and 35% belong to three or more.

Why are we moving so swiftly into a subscription economy? For wine, it’s a perfect storm of three factors.

1. Our culture of consumerism is changing. The mindless and haphazard consumerism of old is giving way to thoughtful and curated purchases where the brand and its products add value to our lives. This significant change in consumer thinking and behavior has fueled, among other things, the rocketing growth of subscription models. Subscriptions meet the needs of concerns such as waste reduction and finding quality time with family. And, wine clubs need to catch up to remain relevant, resonant and competitive.

2. We’re curious. The primary consumers for subscriptions are young urbanites, 25-44 years old. What they have in common is a sense of discovery. They want to try new things and like being presented with options. Most subscriptions offer monthly mystery boxes, surprises, or trial sizes, giving customers a new product to try. This brings an additional level of excitement to the unboxing experience and gets consumers to expand their product knowledge and preferences.

3. We don’t value “saving” like our parents did.Our parents wanted the lowest price so they could show off the best quality brand they could afford. The new consumer is interested in saving time. The financial incentive is there, but you can’t just give a small discount to this group and expect to call it a day on your benefits alone.

Only a few years ago, the model was simple. You joined a club to gain exclusive access to products and VIP perks. These membership clubs were found in categories such as luxury apparel, food and wine.

However, with the onslaught of COVID, the dramatic increase in E-commerce, digitally native brands, and the growing influence of the Millennial mind-set and their expectations as consumers, the world of “clubs” has evolved. The consumer has moved on. Have you?

3 Subscription Models Have Emerged

A McKinsey Report lays out the current state of subscription models very clearly. What jumps out is that the traditional model of Subscribe for Access has been usurped by the newer models of Subscribe for Replenishment and Subscribe for Curation. And, while Subscribe for Replenishment accounts for a healthy one third of subscriptions, it is not a relevant category for wine clubs given its focus on essential household, wellness and grooming products. Which leaves the wine industry needing to evolve the traditional wine club model, beyond offering a choice here or there, to compete within Subscribe for Curation.

What does this mean? Successful Subscribe for Curation offerings have the following imperatives as the foundation of the subscription offered:

• Move from a focus on transactions to long-term relationships.

• Shift from acquisition focus to retention.

• Shift from selling products to selling experiences

• High levels of personalization, flexibility and surprises.

• A highly anticipated unboxing experience.

• Impeccable customer service.

In other words, focusing on delivering a great experience that puts the consumer in charge of what they order and keeps them coming back for more by including gifts, exclusive content, and other surprises.

Attracting New Subscribers and Keeping Them

Wineries traditionally relied on converting their tasting room visitors to club members. However, attracting members who will never visit your tasting room is an increasingly important consideration in any conversation around future revenue growth. We all know a subscription model is good for business – it delivers increased and predictable revenue, contributes to savings in customer acquisition spending, increases loyalty and lifetime value, and can reduce operational costs due to predictable demand. Therefore, understanding the triggers that cause a potential subscriber to sign-up and those that cause them to cancel is a critical component when evolving your current club model to a subscribe for curation model.

The initiation triggers point to consumers’ desire to discover new things and especially, new things someone else recommends. A strong social media presence and refer a friend incentives are key to this discovery process. Cancellation triggers hinge on the experience – either the overall experience or the perceived value for money vis-à-vis the experience. Given the need to elongate subscription lifetime values, every step of the experience offered needs to be executed at the highest level. Consumers not only expect it, but they also know what a great experience feels like. After all, the average consumer now has somewhere between 3 and 10 subscriptions (excluding media and entertainment.

Less is More

There is a reason most companies only offer 3 levels of subscription. Our brains think in threes. More choices are not better. They can cause confusion, delay the decision, or result in the potential member walking away.

Rather than thinking about the subscription levels from your product line-up perspective, structure the levels from the consumer’s perspective – I want you to curate this for me, I want the option to add from a defined list, I want to make all the choices for myself. This will help reduce the number of levels and increase conversion.

Looking Ahead

“The measure of intelligence is the ability to change”

-Albert Einstein

There’s never been a greater time than now to be open to evolving our business models. Changes in demographics and consumer trends have been coming for years and wineries who aren’t willing to look at adapting their Wine Club programs leave themselves open to becoming less relevant with consumers as the attitudes and behaviors continue to evolve. Gaynor Strachan Chun is the Director of Strategy at WineGlass Marketing, a full-service direct marketing firm working within the wine industry in Napa, California. www.wineglassmarketing.com.

Why Everyone is Talking About Organic Wine

December 28, 2021April 16, 2025 Cyndi

By: Hanifa Sekandi

Is organic wine a hangover cure? Could this be the answer you have been looking for to quell your day after Reisling’s woes? If it is possible to imbibe and wake up early without the thunderous plus of a headache to remind you of the night before, then surely everyone wants in on this vino du jour. Eating organic greens, grass-fed meat, and poultry and reading the labels of packaged or premade foods to see if they contain preservatives has become ever more pressing. Understanding the connection between what goes into our body and how this impacts one’s overall well-being is at the forefront of consumer goods. It is not just the food industry but also the beverage, wine, and spirits sectors. The scientific revolution ushered in a lot of excitement where increasing the shelf life of food with the use of additives seemed like a promising endeavor.

Sometimes novel ideas have a downside. In the case of preservative-laden consumer goods, things are not always as they seem. The zealous approach to preserve anything and everything did not take into account the impact such ingredients may have on individuals on a long-term basis. Yes, one could argue that not all additives are bad for you and are necessary. Particularly when one thinks of vintage wines that would indeed spoil without the use of sulfur dioxide (SO2). You are certainly not going to find an organic aged Bordeaux or Pinot Noir that is organic. Alas, most wine enthusiasts understand this and know when purchasing organic wines that the lifespan is short therefore, these wines are meant to be enjoyed upon purchase. The distinction of what constitutes an organic wine is not universal and differs from country to country. The United States has taken on a more stringent approach than Europe and Canada.

What is Organic Wine?

Since the designation of organic wine varies around the world, it is a case of it depends on where you live. This requires consumers to do their due diligence and research to understand that not all organic wines, although placed in the organic wine section, are made the same. Some organic wines may contain sulfites. If an allergy or sensitivity is a concern, then knowing how to read wine labels is essential. You might be wondering, what exactly are sulfites? Sulfites are preservatives used to maintain freshness and prevent bacteria growth, and in the case of wine, to reduce oxidation.

Sulfites also influence the taste and appearance of wine and increase shelf life. So that well-aged full-body vintage wine contains this preservative. For some people, sulfites are a sensitivity or allergen that may result in side effects. This ranges from a headache to a rash, hives, stomach pain, swelling, and in severe cases anaphylaxis. Wine free of added sulfites is favorable for individuals with this concern. Keep in mind that even organic wine contains a small amount of naturally occurring sulfites.

In the US, wines that are labeled organic must be made with organically grown grapes. Winemakers adhere to the rules and regulations of organic farming therefore, the use of fungicides, pesticides, chemical fertilizers, and herbicides is not allowed. The same standard used to evaluate organic foods by the United States Agriculture department is used to assess organic wines. There is no acceptance for simply using organic grapes. It also extends to how the wine is harvested and the yeast utilized for fermentation. Also, how the wine is stored must follow organic processing standards to receive a USDA organic certification. Before storage potassium metabisulfite is used to sterilize and sanitize non-organic wine barrels which would, in turn, impact an organic wine and hence is not permitted. Another rule is that additional sulfites cannot be added to organic wine and if so, it will not be deemed organic by the National Organic Program.

A wine bottle labeled as “Made with Organic Grapes” signifies that this vintner used organic grapes for their wine but there are added sulfites. Winemakers who choose to produce wines with preservatives are permitted to use non-native yeasts (yeast that is not organic) during fermentation. They may also use up to 100 parts per million additional sulfites. In Canada and Europe, sulfites are allowed and this distinction is made on wine labels. If you see a wine labeled “100% Organic” in Canada, this means that it is made with certified organic grapes and does not contain added sulfites. A regulation distinction that falls in line with the regulations found in the US. A wine with this certification would be permitted for sale in the US since it meets the strict requirements.

Not All Wines Are Made Equal

The European Union has allowed the terminology “organic wine” on wines made with organic grapes but contain sulfites. Whereas organic wine in the US must contain less than 20 parts per million of total sulfites to get an organic seal of approval. This departure in regulation has limited European wineries who consider their wine as organic to enter the US market and be designated as such. Vintners in France and Canada, for example, countries that both allow for some leniencies. Argue that additives permit stabilization and longevity of wines. No preservatives mean these wines have a short lifespan — only a few years after bottling.

The solution would be to pivot the same way the food industry has and look for organic preservatives to maintain the integrity of the wine. It is hard to change a processing practice that has proven fruitful and effective. Further, this niche wine selection is still in its infancy. Perhaps the growth in organic wine consumption in places like France, where the drinking of organic wine has seen a dramatic increase in the last few years and continues to grow. May usher in an innovative way to preserve wines. Germany is the leading organic wine-growing country. Vintners in Germany could take the helm and steer this aim in the right direction. If it can be done in the food industry, it is only a matter of time before an expert winemaker finds the solution or middle ground. So there can be a fair import and export of organic wine trade with European, Canadian, or other organic winemakers worldwide who have a strong desire to enter the robust organic wine market in the United States.

As more vineyards in France convert to organic they may take the lead as premier organic wine producers and surpass Germany who has the most amount of organic vineyards. With an increase of organic wine producers in France, which houses approximately ninety percent of the global organic wine-growing regions. France has a surplus of wine reserves more than the percentage of organic wine drinkers in its country could possibly drink. Hence, getting access to more consumers in this niche is essential. The US, with its strict regulations, has a high demand for this niche market. But, it lags considerably behind other organic wine-producing regions in production.

An Organic Viniful Future

By 2023 an estimated 1 billion bottles of organic wine will be consumed. Germany takes the lead with the consumption of the most organic wine consumed. But this might be due to availability more so than popularity; proximity and ease matter. And setting a high standard for quality and wine cultivation has been the norm for German vineyards for decades.

Whether or not wine-producing countries will agree on what makes a wine organic. The reality is there is a demand for wine producers to not only take on sustainable cultivation methods but also consider what goes into each barrel of wine they make. As trendy as hangover-free wine may be, it is more than just about staving off a headache it is about the food and beverage industry’s responsibility to their consumer. Understanding that there need to be options. There is a fine balance that can be met.

Further, organic wine enthusiasts are not necessarily bidding adieu to classically-made wines; they simply desire choice. If organic wines could be the answer to hangovers or possible side effects for some, it is worth exploring for those looking for an alternative. Of course, there is no direct evidence to support the notion that organic wine is the answer wine drinkers have been looking for to solve a dreaded hangover.

It cannot be argued that people are finding that organic wine does not have the same side effects as its older sibling wines that contain additional sulfites. This is why it has gained a lot of popularity among health-conscious consumers who tout this day-after pleasant effect. Another step that organic winemakers are moving towards is producing wine with lower sugar content. This coupled with no additional sulfites could be a winning strategy since high sugar content in alcohol is also responsible for the horrible day after feeling that many feel after one too many.

As the organic wine industry grows and consumers demand cleaner options. The old school way of making wine and the new school approach will need to find a happy medium. So, wine drinkers can continue to experience the rich history of a slowly-aged oak barrel wine while welcoming a fresh organic wine that compliments a modern lifestyle.

Notable Organic Wines

Dry Farm Wines: This vineyard goes a step further and calls its wines pure Natural Wines. They take on a purist approach when it comes to farming and harvest pure natural wines that are not only lower in sulfites but are sugar-free, vegan, biodynamic/organic, free of toxins, contain lower alcohol and keto, and paleo-friendly. Sounds like wine magic, right?! This winery offers a great selection of reds, whites, rose, and sparkling wine. They offer you an opportunity to try a box of different wines and if you would like monthly subscriptions.

Frey Vineyards: As the first US winemakers to be certified organic and biodynamic, Jonathan and Katrina Frey have been crafting organic wines for over forty years. A standout quality of the vineyards where their wines are made is that they use a biodynamic farming method which means that the natural habitat where their vines grow is cared for with consideration of the animals and plants that inhabit the land. The 2018 Biodynamic Chardonnay with a smooth vanilla creamy finish is a delightful organic selection.

How’s Your Mouth Feel?

December 28, 2021April 16, 2025 Cyndi

By: Tod Stewart

The latest vintage of Domaine de la Bon Bouche sets the lips tingling as if tickled by the eyelashes of an angel as it flits on gossamer caresses, coming to alight gently on the tongue. Resting its silky wings, it envelopes the palate in a cocoon of velvety, glycerol-induced unctuousness. Wrapped in a creamy, viscous robe, it perches supplely on the papillae, mustering the steely resolve required to resume an ultimately suicidal (though heart-arrestingly warm and generous) slink down…down…down. Without gritty tannin, without harsh heat, without even a suggestion of chalkiness, it bids, adieu mon amour to my spent taste muscle and departs in a gush of crisp, crunchy yet at once satiny tactile replay.”

Sick of this yet?

Me, too. So let’s get on with it.

Obviously Domaine de la Bon Bouche is not a real wine, winery, or marketing gimmick (okay, hold that last possibility). Nor is the “review” the product of a real “wine writer” (though considering some of the reviews I actually have had the displeasure of reading, it’s not much of a stretch to think it could be).

However, if you study that exercise in vinopomposity you’ll notice something interesting. Not once…once…were aromas and flavours ever mentioned. Coincidence? I think not (mostly because I wrote it that way on purpose).

The point, insofar as there is one, is that there’s a dimension to wine (and spirits and beer and all the other goodies that slide over your palate) that goes beyond smell and taste. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which….(Sorry, but I’ve been dying to shove the “Twilight Zone” intro into one of my bits.) Actually, it’s the dimension of the tactile and it is the zone where those elements that give wine textures roam. The things that make them “silky” or “furry.” “Gritty” or “velvety.” “Round” or “sharp.”

A highly extracted Alsace Gewurztraminer can come off as almost oily or “creamy” on the palate. A brisk, unoaked Chablis can be steely. A raw young Cabernet will be puckeringly astringent. These non-flavour components are responsible for what the cork dorks generally call “mouthfeel.” When a wine has a particularly noteworthy mouthfeel you tend to resist the urge to swallow it right away. Instead, you hold it in your mouth, roll it around, maybe even chew on it a bit before sending it on its way.

Some of you, perhaps a very few of you, might care to know where these textural elements originate. Given that I fall into the latter group, and I’m writing this, I’ll give it a brief once over then let the truly curious Google the night away.

Rumour has it (or maybe it’s actually the truth, who knows, but I’ve got a deadline pending and can’t waste too much time researching), that two French dudes named Semichon (which, translated, means “half chon” and shouldn’t be confused with Semicornichon, which, translated, means “half little pickle”) and Flanzy (whatever) suggested (to whom nobody is sure) that substances called pectins produced tactile sensations in the mouth. (Actually, a fellow named von Follenberg discovered these things in 1914, but it’s harder to riff on his name.)

Pectins fall into the larger phylum of polysaccharides, and within this party of “Ps” reside a few interesting members including Arabinogalactan proteins (AGP’s – originating in a galaxy far, far away populated – secretly – by those of Arabian descent), Type II Rhamnogalacturonas (RG-IIs; sung, albeit with difficulty, to the tune of The Knack’s My Sharona) and Mannoprotiens (MP’s; typically found dozing in Canadian parliament but also, apparently, found in wine – or into wine, as the case may be.) By the by, I’m not making this stuff up, at least not the names; the descriptors are, however, proudly my own.

I’ve never really been a “leg man” when it comes to wine (and let’s just call them “tears” instead of legs), but the thickness of those somewhat syrupy-looking trails that slither down the inside of the glass point to the presence of glycerol (and alcohol). The more glycerol the “oilier” or more viscous the wine will feel on the palate.

Anyway, numerous tests concluded that these fine thingamajigs do, in fact, combine to alter the textural nuances of a wine. And efforts have been made, usually by the pointy-heads, to analyze, categorize and compartmentalize tactile variants. The results, for good or for ill, being “texture wheels” (similar to the oft-cited UC Davis “aroma wheel”).

So now we know what creates texture in wine. But what causes textures to differ? The answer is found in both nature and nurture.

“But how is this going to impress my dinner guests/date/boss/Arabinogalactan-in-waiting?” you whine annoyingly. To which I answer, “All good things in time, grasshopper.” But seeing as there’s no time like the present, here we go.

If you think about it, texture factors largely in how a wine will tango with a particular morsel of food.

The zesty, electric acidity and mild sweetness of a kabinett level German Riesling offers the perfect foil for a creamy/salty dish, while the cleansing sparkle of a fine glass of fizz drums down the oily character of smoked salmon. The drying astringency of an austere young Bordeaux can be quelled by the proteins in a rare steak. And like the flavours and aromas of a wine, its texture can change with age.

Some feel that the texture of a wine is the most important aspect of the whole experience. David Ramey of Sonoma’s Ramey Wine Cellars is one of those types. How important is texture to him? “From my perspective, it’s huge. I don’t care if a wine smells like apples, peaches or whatever, but I really care that it feels good in my mouth. Focusing excessively on a wine’s aroma is like focusing on cologne while making love – it’s not the main event.” I’ll take his word for it.

Here’s something you can try at home (where else these days?) with minimal cash, fuss and planning that will show you how wine and food can both complement and contrast, and how important the textural aspect can be in making food and wine matches work.

Get yourself a brisk, zesty Sauvignon Blanc (Loire Valley, Niagara, California, New Zealand, etc.). Hit up the cheese monger for a creamy/crumbly young goat cheese, and the fish monger for a few fresh East Coast oysters. Don’t mess with the purity of the oyster by adding gloopy condiments; knock it back au naturel on the half-shell and follow it with a gulp of the wine. The bracing acidity of the wine marries nicely with the briny bivalve creating a sensation of textural lightness. Now try the same routine with the cheese instead of the oyster. The tang of the young cheese matches the zippy grapefruit zing of the wine, but its palate coating creaminess welcomes the wine’s cleansing quality. A great textual match, but on an entirely different level.

I recently (finally) got out of the house to celebrate the reopening of Chef Daniel Boulud’s Café Boulud in the swanky Four Seasons Hotel Toronto. Not only was I treated to a rather spectacular lunch (with some to-die-for duck), I also had the extreme pleasure of matching the various dishes with wines from one of my favourite Champagne houses: Ruinart. I asked the hotel’s Wine Director and Sommelier, Julie Garton, what her views were on the importance of textural elements in wines.

“Texture in wine can be very important for pairing,” she informed me, “especially with red wine as it tends to have higher tannin levels. Many factors contribute to the texture/tannin level of wine, including the thickness of the grape skins, ripeness of the grapes, length of maceration and the vessels used to age the wine. Together, these factors can create different textures which can be described as silky, firm, plush, or grippy. As a result of the texture, the wine can pair better with different foods and cooking methods. White wines aren’t without textures either. Certain wines are known for having a creamier or oily texture despite having tannins.”

She also mentioned that texture helps to balance the respective weights of both the wine and the food matches. Champagne, she assured, made for a fantastic food-pairing partner, notably due to its textural elements. I nodded in agreement (as it is rather bad manners to talk with your mouth stuffed).

“The bubbles can certainly help to add a creaminess to the texture of the wine. However, often the production method, for example, barrel fermented and aged, along with the dosage level and the type of grapes used tend to have the largest impact on the weight and texture of a Champagne. An Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs will often feel leaner on the palate than a Blanc de Noirs, or a Vintage Champagne, which with age will show more richness.”

Favourite matches? “A pairing I’ve always loved is Champagne with fried chicken,” she admits. “Champagne is great with fried foods because of its high acidity. The acidity and the bubbles help to cleanse the palate and cut through the fattiness and oiliness of the dish.” Which also confirmed another wine and food rule: simple wine with complex food; complex wine with simple food.

In the end, writing about wine textures can be a bit difficult, mostly because it’s writing about something we feel. And what we feel, as we all know, often goes beyond words.

Non-Fungible Tokens The Continued Evolution of Blockchain Use

December 13, 2021April 16, 2025 Cyndi

A non-fungible token (NFT) is an original, autochthonous asset of value that cannot be replaced with an identical asset. An NFT has a unique, traceable print that has the capability to take on disparate forms and fluctuating values based on market or other forces for trade in a monetary or financial transaction.

NFT’s are specific units of data stored in a digitized blockchain, usually for the purpose of covert exchange between parties. Because an NFT has a unique digitized signature, it is nigh impossible to replicate but easy to assign value as agreed upon between parties (buyer and seller) using a “smart contract” as the agreement vehicle.

For example, an artist may digitally create an image authenticating it using blockchain. However, when purchase of an NFT does not necessarily convey the bundle of legal rights generally associated with ownership of a physical or digital item – it instead conveys ownership of a unique token identifier associated with that NFT. The token identifier is unique but traceable and stored in a public database that serves as a ledger. Anyone can verify data regarding the image: who created it and when, ownership, tracing ownership, etc. This is a secure transaction because the authentication marker as part of the blockchain cannot be copied. It is digitally secure and digitally traceable to the source.

Digital art, a cartoon, a memory collage-like tokenized collectibles, a pair of gym shoes, an important tweet can be sold as NFT’s through the blockchain. The ability to use NFT’s as a method of payment and smart contracts as a contracting vehicle allows anyone who understands the technology or at least understands this digital process to buy and sell worldwide in a secure, traceable environment. The first NTF transaction happened in 2014 with a tradable blockchain marker affixed to the digital artwork. In the first quarter of 2021, over 200M was spent on NFT’s using online platforms.

Smart contracts, blockchain technology, and NFT’s are the trading blocks to be used in place of traditional contractual vehicles and hard currency. Understanding how this technology works will help clients avoid being taken advantage of by an unscrupulous contracting partner or running afoul of tax, ethics, and other regulatory compliance requirements. Blockchain and NFT’s are here to stay.