Page 32 - Grapevine JanFeb 2022
P. 32

In The Winery



               they’ve planted, crop load, canopy management,       along with
               harvest time, and other winery practices will inform  Jory volcanic
               how each particular wine will turn out.              soils. In 2016,
                                                                    they launched
                 During his travels as a music executive, Boberg    their first
               had ample opportunities to connect with such lumi-   release, a 2014
               nary winemakers as Henri Jayer, who is considered    Willamette
               the “Godfather of Burgundy,” and known for the       Valley Pinot
               quality of his Pinot Noir. Also, Boberg continued his  Noir that was
               friendship with Méo. As owner and winemaker of       selected as
               the Côte d’Or’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Méo spent       one of Wine
               nearly 30 years making wines from vineyards like     Spectator
               Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet,     Magazine’s Top
               and Échezeaux.                                       100 Wines of
                                                                    the year.
                    Applying Burgundian Influences to
                          Willamette Valley Vines                     While their
                                                                    initial focus
                 Both Méo and Boberg became entranced by the        was on Pinot Noir, they expanded their offerings to
               potential and quality of Oregon’s Pinot Noirs. They   include limited releases of Chardonnay and Rosé.
               decided to combine their respective backgrounds in  In addition to the Bishop Creek vineyard, they
               winemaking and marketing to a new region replete     planted three acres of Pinot Noir on their Dundee
               with new vineyards, new soils, and a new climate.    Hills property. They will also plant vines that were
               In this quest, Boberg took the same approach to      imported from Méo-Camuzet, which need to be
               creating wine that he did when signing artists. “I   quarantined for a year. Eventually, they plan on
               never signed a band because I thought they were      having 25 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in
               going to be a big hit. I signed them because their   all. Also, they select grapes from other Willamette
               music touched me emotionally,” Bobeg reflected. In  Valley vineyards including Nysa, Momtazi, Hyland,
               the same vein, Boberg and Méo wanted to make a       and La Colina.
               wine they wanted to drink in the hopes there were
               enough people out there who had similar palates.           Applying Burgundian Winemaking
                                                                           Techniques to Oregon Pinot Noir
                 In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, they found the
               kind of balanced, terroir-driven wines they like to     Even though Méo is based in France, he communi-
               drink. In addition, they were drawn to the wine      cates with Associate Winemaker Tracy Kendall and
               community that considers other winemakers to be      Boberg to collaborate on all aspects of winemaking
               collaborators not competitors. Also, the economics   from harvest to elevage to bottling. In Kendall’s
               of Oregon enabled them to start a viable business    estimation the biggest difference between Nicolas-
               compared to launching a winery in California.        Jay and other wineries she’s worked with in New
                                                                    Zealand, Australia, Washington, and Oregon is
                 After visiting over two hundred Oregon wineries    Nicolas-Jay’s refusal to accept the status quo.
               over a two year span, they learned to recognize      “Because we’ve always done it that way is never
               the vineyards they loved, as well as the practices   an acceptable explanation for why we do what we
               in the vineyards and wineries that produced the      do,” Kendall notes. Also, another big difference she
               wines that best suited their palettes. In 2014 they   found is Nicolas-Jay’s focus on structure and tex-
               purchased Bishop Creek, an organic vineyard in       ture in the wines rather than flavor. As she states,
               the Yamhill-Carlton AVA planted in the 1980s. This   “The flavor of Pinot Noir develops if the grapes are
               north-facing site provides cooler temperatures that   picked for texture and weight and if fermentation is
               allow for later ripening Pinot Noir and Chardonnay   handled in such a way as to create the desired tex-

               Page 30                         The Grapevine • January - February 2022                         877-892-5332





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