Page 77 - Grapevine JanFeb 2022
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International News
How’s Your Mouth Feel?
By: Tod Stewart
T he latest vintage of Domaine de la Bon Obviously Domaine de la Bon Bouche is not a real
wine, winery, or marketing gimmick (okay, hold
Bouche sets the lips tingling as if tickled
by the eyelashes of an angel as it flits on
gossamer caresses, coming to alight gently on the that last possibility). Nor is the “review” the prod-
uct of a real “wine writer” (though considering
tongue. Resting its silky wings, it envelopes the some of the reviews I actually have had the displea-
palate in a cocoon of velvety, glycerol-induced sure of reading, it’s not much of a stretch to think it
unctuousness. Wrapped in a creamy, viscous robe, could be).
it perches supplely on the papillae, mustering the
steely resolve required to resume an ultimately sui- However, if you study that exercise in vinopom-
cidal (though heart-arrestingly warm and generous) posity you’ll notice something interesting. Not
slink down…down...down. Without gritty tannin, once…once…were aromas and flavours ever men-
without harsh heat, without even a suggestion of tioned. Coincidence? I think not (mostly because I
chalkiness, it bids, adieu mon amour to my spent wrote it that way on purpose).
taste muscle and departs in a gush of crisp, crunchy
yet at once satiny tactile replay.” The point, insofar as there is one, is that there’s a
dimension to wine (and spirits and beer and all the
Sick of this yet? other goodies that slide over your palate) that goes
Me, too. So let’s get on with it. beyond smell and taste. It is the middle ground
between light and shadow, between science and
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