Page 46 - Grapevine July-August 2019
P. 46
Around The Vineyard
Smoke Taint
By: Nan McCreary
W lem in recent years, with many occurring and release the now-volatile phenols into the wine,
ildfires have become an increasing prob-
making smoke-tainted flavors perceptible. This
in various wine-growing areas through-
in your mouth can break down any glycosides that
out the world. Aside from causing loss of life and process can even happen as you sip: the enzymes
extensive property damage, the wildfires pose a remain, releasing unpalatable compounds into
risk of smoke exposure to grapes in the vineyard, the wine. The flavors associated with smoke taint
which can lead to off-flavors in the wine. This con- have been described as “burnt rubber,” “ashtray,”
dition is known as smoke taint. “campfire,” or “smoked meat.”
Smoke taint is created by volatile phenols in While Australia, long plagued by wildfires, has
smoke that permeate the grape skin and bind with been researching smoke taint for many years, the
sugar in the grape to form organic compounds U.S. recently felt the impact when the California
called glycosides. This process, known as glyco- wildfires of 2017 swept through the state. “This
sylation, makes the phenols non-volatile, meaning is all new to us, and it has transformed the wine
you cannot smell or taste the smokiness. However, industry in California,” Tom Eddy, owner of Tom
during fermentation, the glycosides break apart Eddy Winery in Napa told The Grapevine Magazine.
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