Page 62 - Grapevine SeptOct 2021

International News

VQA Ontario:

The Evolution of a Canadian Provincial Wine Law

By: Tod Stewart
I t’s more than a little ironic to learn that the generally done for nobler purposes - typically to

first known “wine law” was distinctly anti-
prevent wine fraud. Fakery became especially
wine. In an effort to increase the food supply,
phylloxera blight decimated vineyards and all but
Roman emperor Domitian (c. 92) issued a decree problematic in mid-19th century France as the
banning the planting of any more vines in Italy. dried up the flow of wine. These laws evolved into
The hope was that available growing land would the familiar (at least to wine buffs) Appellation
be given to planting cereal grains as opposed to d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system. Similar laws pro-
grapes. Guess how that all worked out. Though liferated in wine growing regions around the world.
largely ignored throughout the country, it nonethe- They aimed at establishing geographical origin, per-
less stayed in effect for close to 200 years before mitted grape varieties and yields, and production
being repealed by emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus methods, among other things.
(and much celebration ensued).
Generally speaking, wine laws are a good thing for
Wine laws enacted across Europe - starting with consumers. After all, if you’re spending big bucks
those conceived by the Reichstag in 1498 - were on an Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon with the term

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