Page 61 - Grapevine March-April 2020

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Lincoln Lakeshore appellation has one of the lon-
gest and warmest growing seasons in the region.
The scarp acts as a shield from heavy winds, and
the lake provides insulation against cold tempera-
tures and traps moisture during hot, dry sum-
mers. The most notable characteristic of Lincoln
Lakeshore, though, is its terroir. The soil within this
appellation is extremely varied. Fifty-five percent
of the area is covered in light sand, but you will
also find pockets of deep red clay loam and alluvial
deposits from the ancient lake that once existed
here. Cabernet Franc seems to flourish in these
areas in a very classic expression of the varietal.
Big tannin, bold black fruit and a hint of crisp green
pepper are typical in these wines.

Meanwhile, along the sunny banks of the Niagara
Lakeshore appellation, light, sandy soils allow
for deep-rooted vines and later ripening grapes.
Here, you will find notably fuller-bodied wines Since moving to the region, I have had the plea-
with potential for maturing: big Bordeaux style sure of discovering numerous wine producers
blends with bold black fruits and ripe tannin. They who are doing remarkable things. Ridgepoint
are even growing Petit Verdot and Tannat in this Wines, located in the Twenty Mile Bench, is one
appellation. The simple geography and proximity of the wineries that impressed me. At Ridgepoint,
to the lake and Four Mile Creek ensure warm tem- they are producing everything from appassimen-
peratures and lots of sunlight year-round. In other to-style Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to single
words, when it comes to wine in Ontario, there’s varietal Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. The wine that
the opportunity to produce just about anything. I brought to the holiday tasting party was a 2012
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Ripasso-
The issue is you won’t necessarily find the best style Aglianico. Amongst the juicy California Cabs
Ontario wines in the local liquor store. Ontario vint- and concentrated Amarones on the table, it was
ners can’t even get most of them on the shelves in a delightful respite. Tasting thirty wines in one
their own LCBO stores. The process of getting wine night is no easy feat. Your palate can only handle
in the hands of consumers is not an easy one in so many Barolos in one evening. What my wine
Ontario. offered was a beautiful variation from the others,
starting with a complex nose of cherry and cassis,

Most Ontario wineries are opting for small-batch toast and cedar. The refreshingly bright acidity
wines that are only available in the winery tasting stood out amongst the other wines, and the body,
rooms. Recently, “virtual wineries” have started tannin and alcohol still held up against all of the
popping up with no physical storefront, just a prod- heavy hitters. The palate showed lots of plush fruit
uct packaged under a winery name—similar to the balanced with oak and developing notes of leather
Old World French tradition of “negociants.” and tobacco that lingered on the palate in a long,
complex finish. The crowd didn’t know what hit
The best way to find the best Ontario wine? Come them. At the end of the night, I put on my jacket
to Ontario. Let the locals tell you where to go. It and packed up my newly acquired bottle of Gamble
won’t necessarily be the big names like Wayne Mary Ann with a smug grin on my face. I proved to
Gretzky or Jackson-Triggs. Some of the best winer- myself, and the others at the party, that Ontario
ies are literally inside the winemaker’s house, and has something to offer the world of wine. Ontario
they’re all too happy to have you. wine is not just good—it’s great.

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