Page 63 - Grapevine May-June 2020
P. 63

International News


               his own winery. Instead, he works as a traditional   on both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grape vari-
               “micro-negocient,” purchasing grapes that he’s       etals. He worked creating multiple expressions
               handpicked from the top producers in Niagara and     of both grapes from different vineyard sites each
               from specific vineyard sites he deems the best. This  year and continued to sample them against each
               allows him to experiment with the vast growing       other. While he says Burgundy remains his favorite
               conditions within the area, focusing specifically on   expression of the grapes, he found that Niagara
               making chardonnay and pinot noir that express the    wine was what really interested people.
               unique terroir from numerous plots within Niagara.
                                                                      “We keep our licenses in both places…but for the
                 Originally from Quebec, Bachelder started his      past six years I’d go out, and everybody would want
               career as a wine journalist before moving to         the Niagara wines. What we are doing in Niagara
               Burgundy to study winemaking. He always had an       is more novel and different than just another
               interest in French culture and French wine, and,     Burgundy,” he said.
               combined with his interest in terroir, Burgundy
               was his ideal destination. At the time, Bachelder      Many restaurants already have a wine list full of
               dreamed of having his own small organic vineyard     Burgundy and Oregon pinot noir. Niagara wine is
               in Burgundy, but, ironically, by 1993, he was in     what most excites people because it’s different. It’s
               Oregon working as a winemaker at Ponzi Vineyards     up and coming. So three years ago, Bachelder made
               in Willamette Valley. Bachelder continued his        a decision.
               winemaking journey over the next 20 years, jump-
               ing between Burgundy, Oregon and Niagara. He           “We were hitting our heads against a wall and
               worked as a winemaker in Meursault and then as       spending so much money trying to do all three
               the founding winemaker at Le Clos Jordanne in the    [countries] when everybody wants Niagara. The
               Niagara Escarpment. Bachelder became known as        Niagara warehouse would always be empty.”
               a “Master of Elevage,” using minimal intervention
               to produce elegant, terroir-driven wines. It was this    He decided to start focusing more of his time and
               chapter of his life that inspired his “Three Terroirs   efforts in Ontario. He quickly realized that there
               Project.”                                            was no one in Niagara producing single-vineyard
                                                                    wines from sites that spanned across the Niagara
                 In 2009, Bachelder started producing and bottling   Peninsula, a 70km distance from Hamilton to
               chardonnay under his own label from all three        Niagara-on-the Lake. He already had a reputa-
               countries he had worked in over the years: France,   tion in the region as a founding winemaker at Le
               the U.S. and Canada. He wanted to study and          Clos Jordanne as well as Domaine Queylus in the
               compare the wines to one another and have other      Niagara Escarpment. People in the Niagara region
               critics do the same. The concept was for those who   knew him and liked what he was doing. It gave him
               discriminated against certain regions to be able to   the edge he needed to start his next project, and
               taste wine from the same grape made by the same      so, he began selecting the best fruit from the best
               hand from all three regions. This would allow peo-   plots in the Peninsula.
               ple to be able to taste distinctions in the wines that
               came from the terroir and other climactic factors      Bachelder now releases wine twice a year from
               versus a variation in winemaking style.              vineyards that span from east to west in Niagara.
                                                                    He still has no fixed address and does not own any
                 His intention at the start of the project was to   grapes of his own. He rents all the winemaking
               focus entirely on chardonnay, but, after commit-     space to produce, bottle and store his wine. You
               ting to producing Chardonnay in Burgundy, Oregon     can only taste his wines by appointment, in a tiny
               and Ontario, Bachelder was offered 800kg of Old      space he rents to store his barrels and lovingly
               Vine Pinot Noir grapes from Wilma Lowrey. The        refers to as “The Bat Cave,” but hours are irregular
               Lowrey vineyard is one of Bachelder’s favorite       and mostly take place once a week on Saturday
               sites in Niagara, located in the St. David’s Bench   afternoons. The entire operation remains Bachelder
               sub-appellation. Being a Pinot Noir lover at heart,   and his wife, Mary, who takes care of the business
               by 2011, Bachelder was growing Pinot Noir in all     side of the operation. The couple sells their wine
               three countries as well. It was then that Bachelder   through their website, https://bachelderniagara.
               was able to truly discover the impact of terroir     com/.

               877-892-5332                       The Grapevine • May - June 2020                               Page 61





          Grapevine Main Pages GV050620_Layout 1-1 .indd   61                                                       4/28/20   1:21 PM
   58   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68