Page 29 - Grapevine Jan-Feb 2020

In The Winery

and wood, so the rules are changing.”

It is no coincidence that master coopers like
Karasch understand the language of winemakers
because both professions require a blend of art and
science. Another case in point is Kentucky-based
Canton Cooperage. Founded in 1933 and acquired
in 1998 by Chene & Cie (owners of Taransaud
Cooperage of Congac, France), the company ben-
efits from the experience of master coopers who,
with a cumulative total of more than 600 years in
the business, have a keen understanding of what
winemakers need and want. Canton Cooperage
operates from a platform of social responsibility,
sponsoring an apprentice program in local schools
and partnering with American Forests, a nonprofit
organization dedicated to reforestation.
Enologist Bruno Remy, Sales Manager and Vice
President at Canton Cooperage, explains why the
wood of choice for most cooperages is oak and why
most wineries prefer it.

“Oak wood is prevailing in the cooperage industry

Photos Courtesy of: Whispering Willow Photography

styles of barrels, including a patented HONEY
COMB® Barrel, which he invented. While most of
Black Swan’s clients are craft distilleries and brew-
eries, Karasch is a living library of the kind of knowl-
edge upon which coopers and winemakers thrive.
A vital part of that knowledge, Karasch says, is an
understanding of different kinds of wood, their ori-
gin and their impact in making multiple types and
varieties of wines.

“Quercus Petraea and Quercus Robur are
European Oak, French Oak, Hungarian Oak and
German Oak, as well as other countries. Quercus
Alba is the main American Oak. However, there are
many sub-species of Quercus Alba. It used to be
(that) most winemakers preferred French Oak but,
as we advance in technology and learn what the
wood does and doesn’t do, by toasting and treating
the wood in different ways, we are ending up with
some phenomenal wines using all the woods. It
used to be if you made red wine, you would use
this wood, or white wine you would use (that)
wood. We are advancing in knowledge in both wine

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