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In The Winery
The unifying thread is that these wines prioritize
extended skin contact, regardless of the compo-
sition. In Georgia and Armenia — where ampho-
rae-based wine production has its origins — the
vessels are called “qvevri” and “karas,” respec-
tively. The amphorae are large, egg-shaped pots
and, for hygienic reasons, are lined with beeswax.
Ancient Romans used a large oval clay vessel called
a “dolium,” which had a large opening at the top
and a rounded body attached to a flat or rounded
bottom. The dolia, often six feet in height with a
2500-liter capacity, were kept underground with a
constant temperature all year. The Spanish used a
massive clay vessel called a “tinaja,” which tapers
at the top and the bottom like an egg. Tinaja are
used by some contemporary winemakers in La
Mancha, Valdepeñas and Montilla-Moriles. In
Portugal’s Alentejo region, many winemakers are
reviving the country’s tradition of fermenting in
amphorae called a “talha.” The talhas are massive
and can produce 1000 liters of wine. The region
even has the world’s only appellation dedicat-
ed to wines made in amphora, Vinho de Talha.
Italians use the terms “anfore,” “orci” or “giare” for
amphorae. Tuscany has been the center of clay ves-
sel production for generations.
The revival of amphorae is leading innovative
producers to experiment with improvements in
the vessels, specifically in the areas of oxygen
transfer rates, porosity, effects of different firing
temperatures,
testing of ele-
ments released
by amphorae,
durability and
ease of clean-
ing/improved
sanitation,
among other
areas. Many of
today’s ampho-
rae are far from
those used
6,000 years ago,
with producers
offering her-
metically-sealed
ceramic lids
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that minimize temperature fluctuations and add-
ons such as doors, drain holes, valves and sample
taps to facilitate fermenting, aging and cleaning.
Some have produced vessels with varying porosity,
within limits, due to high-temperature firing tech-
niques, amphorae that limit contact with yeast by
their design, and larger-sized amphorae that can
maintain original reliability performance. It’s also
possible to use vineyard soil in the clay to form an
amphora with a local footprint.
Today’s amphorae are not inexpensive: Generally,
prices begin at around $3,000. A stainless steel tank
starts at $1,000, and an oak barrel can range in
price from $900 to $2,000, depending on whether
it’s American or French Oak. Concrete tanks, which
offer benefits similar to amphorae, may cost as
much as $14,000 for a 470-gallon capacity vessel.
While amphora and concrete represent a significant
investment, those who use them say the benefits
are worth the expense. Not only do the vessels last
for decades, but they also yield competitive wines
of all varieties.
With amphorae technology continuing to evolve,
winemakers considering vinification with this meth-
od should research their options seriously. First of
all, confirm that the amphorae selected are specifi-
cally made for wine and have been tested and cer-
tified to ensure there is no risk of contamination.
Potential buyers should also consider how much
oxygen the wine needs, ease of sanitation and
cleaning, thermal insulation properties, the safety
of materials and durability of the vessel.
Amphorae are taking us back to the future.
Winemakers, who by nature are continually looking
for innovative ways to produce wines, are embrac-
ing this old technology with enthusiasm. For them,
opportunities with amphorae abound.
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