Category: International

By Neal Johnston

The earliest recorded historical evidence of setllements in the countries of the new world, also known as the Americas were attempts at colonisation made by the Europeans in as far back as the tenth century. During long voyages of exploration, Scandanavian ‘Norse’ saiors built the very first settlements of the Americas, in Greenland and Canada. Chrsitopher Columbus expanded on the idea having sailed west when he established a new trade route to reach the far east. He inadvertantly landed in what came to be known to the Europeans as The New World.
Spanish speaking Peru is one of the countries that make up the Americas, or New World, and it is showing great potential to becoming one of the newest and emerging wine producing regions in the global wine market today. Wine makers are keeping their eyes and ears firmly planted on the ground in Peru as they stay on the lookout for available plots of land for new working vineyards. The Peruvian population is estimated at just over thirty one million as recorded in 2015. This includes American Indians, Europeans, Africans and Asians. A heady mixture that has resulted in a wide diversity of expressions in different fields including art, cuisine, literature, and music. A multi ethnic society like this means much greater diversification not only demographically, but both creatively and in terms of cultural influence as well. Building on these combined cultural influences is perhaps in many ways key to understanding and contemplating Peru’s future potential as a diverse, engaged and competitive breeding ground for viticulture on the international stage. Variety is after all the spice of life and this particular melting pot of cultures lends it self towards ingenuity and exploration. Viniculture in 2016 not only in Peru but in many other countries of the New World is becoming more inventive and innovative by the day.

One very beneficial feature Peru shares with another great wine producing country, Chile, is that it is set at the very same high altitude and therefore benefits well from the weather influences of the South Pacific Ocean. Peru’s vineyards are maintained throughout five different regions. The North, Central and South Coasts, the Andean Sierra, and the Selva. There are a grand total of eleven thousand hectares of vineyards throughout Peru, however this number will keep changing as viticulturalists continue to hone in on and explore more ambitiously the future prospects of some of the Central and South Coasts’ best known grape varieties. These include Tacama, Vista Alegre and Ocucaje.

This is good news for the future of wines of the new world and is both refreshing and encouraging, like a breath of fresh air for the industry. The Pacific coastal region of Peru is comprised mainly of desert. This barren and isolated landscape is undulated by a series of valleys flowing down from the Andes Mountains toward the sea. These fertile irrigated areas in valleys can hold cool currents of sea air which means that the balance between the humidity and temperatures can fluctuate significantly daily. This provides good enough weather for perfect growing conditions. The terrain is characterized by the natural diversity of its inner and outer landscapes.

While Peru’s shores are lapped by the Pacific Ocean the Altiplano High plateau sits at an average height of three thousand seven hundred and fifty metres above sea level, and then plunges downwards to meet the deep tropical rainforests of the Amazon. Peru has one of the world’s most complex river systems and it is in the Peruvian highlands that the great Amazon River begins.

Peruvian territory was once home to the ancient cultures from the Norte Chico civilization in Caral, one of the oldest in the world to the Inca Empire, the largest known state in Pre-Columbian America. The Spanish Empire successfully conquered the region in the 16th century. Peru’s independence was formally proclaimed some two hundred years later in 1821. The representative democratic republic of Peru today is divided into twenty five individual regions. This is an evolving country with a higher than average human development index score, and a poverty level of around twenty five percent. Some of its main economic activities include mining, manufacturing, agriculture and fishing.

Peru’s climate lies outside of the southern wine belt, the band of latitude that encircles the southern hemisphere of between thirty and forty five degrees in which quality viniculture is considered practicable. The wine belt theory was posited in an era when some parts of the New World were reliant almost entirely on their domestic consumption alone, with very little financial motivation for change and development. The altitude and maritime influences are not accounted for by the wine belt. More so the wine belt relies entirely on latitudinal information which does not take in to consideration Peru’s coastal plains. Yet it is precisely here that Peruvian viticulture has found a safe haven, between the cooling waters lapping in form the edge of the Pacific Ocean and the Andean peaks as they rise to heights of ten thousand feet or more within just a few miles of the coast itself.

On the coastal plains surrounding the city of Pisco we discover the heartland of Peruvian wine production. Just over one hundred and twenty five miles south of the capital, Lima, Pisco is at the centre of Peru’s Pacific coastline. On either side of this are the towns of Chincha, Ica, Moquegua and Tacna. These are Peru’s viticulture hot spots. Ica is known locally as the land of the sun, an oasis of fertile land on the northern edges of the Atacama Desert where a great abundance of vineyards are separated from barren desert by a matter of just yards. The grape varieties used in Peruvian winemaking are well adapted to warm-climate viticulture. Grenache and red-fleshed Alicante Bouschet are two very popular varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon is also become increasingly more popular along with Bordeaux Malbec, which has proved to be very successful in exports to Argentina. Light-skinned Torrontes is another esteemed white wine variety, which goes under the local name of Torontel.

Along with Sauvignon Blanc and various forms of Muscat these are some of the brands that define Peru at this point in time. These particular grape varieties are well known for their ability to thrive in open warmer climates. ‘Pisco’ is a grape brandy quite like Italy’s Grappa. It also happens to be Peru’s national drink of choice and is heavily contested as being the nation’s favourite beverage in neighbouring Chile as well. The clear grape brandy wine is exported from Peru and it is considerably more successful and popular than the country’s domestic wine to most Peruvians. The famous beverage also benefits from a reliable domestic consumer base.

As Peru’s wine makers are learning more about individual wines they are also gaining further recognition of their products outside of Latin America. Production is completed on a relatively small scale for the most part and Peru would like their finer wines to be able to compete more in the future of the international market. Santiago Queirolo Winery’s Intipalka, is one of few Peruvian wines which is exported to the U.S. Europe and China respectively. Ocucaje is another top producer which has gained wide recognition after it won a silver medal for its esteemed Cabernet Sauvignon at the 2012 Vinalies Internationales in France.

Peru’s winemaking legacy has its origins in the sixteenth century. Following the Spanish conquest Peru was the first South American country in which systematic viticulture, the technical term for the cultivation of the grapevine was actively encouraged. Vines were planted in coastal areas with the majority being placed around Ica, a region just south of Lima. Over the years, pests and politics have reduced the country’s vineyards from 125,000 acres in the nineteenth century, to little more than 2,500 acres by the 1980s. But as Llanos Goyena notes, once economic stability returned to Peru at the turn of the millennium so too did a renewed interest in winemaking.

Peru’s rich and varied cuisine includes a wide range of ingredients including maize, tomatoes, potatoes, avocado, and exotic fruits like the chirimoya, lúcuma and pineapple. A typical Peruvian dish is ‘Ceviche’ which is a combination of fish and shellfish marinated in citrus juices. Another popular dish is Pachamanca which is a combination of meat, tubers and beans cooked slowly to perfection in an enlarged stone oven. Peruvian food can be accompanied by typical drinks like the ‘chicha de jora’.

A unique type of beer made by germinating maize, extracting the malt sugars, boiling the wort, and fermenting it in large vessels, traditionally huge earthenware vats for several days. There are also chichas made from purple corn and peanuts. Since the 1980’s Peru has made a concerted effort at revamping its wine making business and expanding on its development. Productivity in 2016 is placed well within the realms of a country that could soon be in the running for best South American wine exporter.

With the unprecedented level of innovation and experimentation that the global wine industry has been experiencing in recent years the future course for development is looking good not only for Peru but for much of the rest of the new world as well. Hot on the heels of climate change meteorological expert opinion would tend to agree almost unanimously that the great variety of new, unexpected and dramatic shifts in today’s weather will more than likely significantly affect the global wine industry’s future course for development. While further scientific discoveries are being made in accordance with these changes these discoveries will help to pave the way for a better, brighter and even more prosperous future for the wines of the new world.

By Phillip Woolgar

Of all the things we find on the label of a bottle of wine, perhaps most important is the appellation. Getting down to the heart of the matter, the appellation is simply the wine’s address. It’s where the grapes were grown. This simple fact of where grapes were grown gives an oenophile a deep understanding of what’s inside the bottle or can. Yes, the bottle or can!

A can of wine on the store shelf cannot yet be called ubiquitous, but that day may be coming. More wine is found in cans every day. Barokes Wines of Australia claim to have been the first to can wine, inventing their own process in 1996. The Francis Ford Coppola Winery in California released their Sophia Blanc du Blanc in cans in 2004. Now, brothers Greg and Yannick Wertsch, owners of Ontario’s Between the Lines Winery, along with their partners Philip Chae and Lucian Cao, have just introduced their own wine in cans, the first in the region- Origin sparkling wine.

Greg and Yannick were 25 and 22 years old when they started Between the Lines in 2010. They were the youngest wine makers in the area, but between them they had attended wine making school in Germany and Ontario for ten years. They began their winery by renting a building on their parents’ family farm, and finding an investor who paid for tanks, labels, and glassware. The launch was in November 2011.

Early on, the brothers made the kinds of wine everyone knows, wines that originated, were developed, and became famous in other parts of the world. They soon felt disappointed with the results of trying to make a wine in Ontario that was better suited to another region. They decided to go change course. “We wanted to create something that would be “Ontario” for a long time,” explained Greg. Between the Lines’ appellation is 100 percent Niagara Peninsula.

For centuries, wine makers have recognized the influence of place on wine. Where grapes grow, the particular environment contributes to making those grapes unique to that very location. These conditions are often referred to as terroir, and the region as an appellation.

Canada now recognizes eight appellations or wine making regions: Ontario’s three- Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula, and Prince Edward County; and Nova Scotia, Okanagan, Similkameen, Naramata Bench, and Vancouver Island.

The Vintners Quality Alliance (VAQ) is the authority on appellations in Ontario. The VQA website (vqaontario.ca) discusses the importance of appellation. “The physical features of land and climate – the nuances of soil and sun; the minerality and taste characteristics of diverse landscapes – influence the choice of vine cultivars and viticultural practices across Ontario, and create unique conditions for the production of grapes and wine.

As wineries and winemakers cultivate, interpret and elaborate terroir through wine production, they in turn shape our tastes and interaction with the land.” Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula has more acreage devoted to wine than any other viticulture area of Canada. Forty-six varietals are grown on 13,600 acres. The terroir is dominated by fresh water, with the Niagara River to the east, the Welland River to the south, and Lake Ontario to the north. The area’s soil was shaped over 200,000 years by glacial and interglacial events that resulted in thick layers of clay, silt, and sand. The area has a cool climate, with wide shifts of temperature from day to night.
Winds extend the growing season into late fall by bathing vineyards in air that has warmed over the summer-heated lake. In the spring, air that has cooled over the winter-chilled water is blown over the vineyards slowing the warming, and delaying budding until after any late frosts.

This is the Niagara region where Greg and Yannick grew up on the family farm where their dad grew grapes for other vintners. As boys, both Greg and Yannick planned to leave the farm. Gregg enrolled in a few semesters of microbiology, and Yannick did the same with computer science, but their roots reached too deep into the Ontario soil. Sitting at a desk just didn’t satisfy either of them. They quickly realized that wine was their future.
The idea for offering wine in cans was Greg’s. “I studied wine making in Germany. They had sparkling wine in cans. The US has Sophia. There was nothing like it in Ontario.” He didn’t have to convince Yannick. Yannick’s a wine maker. He makes wine. He doesn’t argue about what his wine gets put into.

The process of going from “idea” to actually holding a can of Origin wine this past January took four years. It began with the most obvious question, what wine will we can?

Greg’s choice? “I wanted to use vidal.”
Vidal is a white hybrid that is tough enough to thrive in the cold weather of Canada. Vidal was developed by Frenchman Jean Louis Vidal for use in the production of cognac. The grape is now at home in Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia, and the northeastern United States. It is a primary choice for ice wine, and is so approved by Canada’s Vintner’s Quality Alliance.

As the canning project progressed, it grew. Greg soon found he needed partners. That’s when he called on his partners Lucian and Philip to join him. Lucian and Philip had been students of Greg while he was teaching at Niagara University. They were very enthusiastic about the idea and quickly signed on.

The team next considered the can. What about it?
Canning wine is still so uncommon that the issues, though simple, are not widely known. There are three considerations: don’t touch my wine with metal; keep the gas, lose the air; and don’t make vidal bombs. That is, contain the pressure!

First, aluminum flavored wine? Aluminum cans are now lined with materials that are the latest innovations in science. These new materials have revolutionized the canned beverage industry. Beer and soda cans are also now lined. Canned beer is quickly being recognized (and tasted) as every bit the equal of bottled. Enough canned wine has already been tasted, that wine lovers can be comfortable that this problem is solved. There’s no aluminum in canned wine.

Next, “contains no oxygen”. “We want our sparkling wine drunk as soon as it’s bought,” Greg says. “Origin” is not meant to age in the can. This means that oxygen slowly creeping into the can the way it does through a cork is not a major problem. Still, (no pun intended), sparkling wine is sparkling. You don’t want the sparkle escaping. A sparkling beverage in a leaky container will slowly but steadily become a still beverage. A can of wine is sealed air-tight. Nothing gets in, and nothing gets out.

This sealing is accomplished by a remarkable machine system. At Between the Lines they do the canning themselves. The system first cools the wine which then is poured into a can that has no top at all. The can is filled to overflow so that there is no air in it. The lid is put over the can and sealed. Nothing inside but wine.

What about the pressure? Relax. The can is fine. Between the Lines orders their cans from the Ball Corp. Ball, located in Broomfield, Colorado makes a lot of cans. Their 2014 sales totaled $8.6 billion US. Between the Lines cans were custom designed and tested by Ball. Although Origin is meant to be drunk within days of purchase, the can is designed to hold its contents for a couple of years. Ball also pointed out a happy bonus of canning. Cans are 100 percent recyclable.

Of all the containers used for beverages, the aluminum can is the most recyclable. Arriving at a can that works is just the can’s beginning. Next, there is the very important matter of how it looks. Greg was aware of the “ideas” about canned wine. Many people who love wine are still concerned about the quality of a wine that is distributed the same way soda and cheap beer are. “We needed a can that didn’t look like beer or soda,” Greg remembered.

The Origin can is narrow compared to the typical
beer or soda. It’s relatively tall and thin, much more graceful and elegant than the typical six pack. The colors are also not the typical bright blue, red, or green. The Origin can is white with gold detail. It’s much more in keeping with the image of the wine which is described on the Between the Lines website (betweenthelineswinery.com) as, “an aromatic sparkling wine crafted with a kiss of Vidal Icewine. Pale gold with aromas of bright stone fruit and citrus, a crisp acidity runs across the palate to give a lingering and refreshing finish. A fine balance of sweetness and perlage, the mouth feel is savoury, soft, and smooth. Tickling the palate with a sweet effervescence of peach, apricot, and honey and a clean citrus finish.” In a can!

In matters of wine, as much as anywhere else, talk is cheap. The test is the taste. The only way to know that canning wine is really working is to open a can and taste it. For that, you’ve got to go to Between the Lines in Ontario, or shop on their website, betweenthelineswinery.com.

By Phillip Woolgar

More than 55,000 wine professionals from all over the world attended the ProWein International Trade Fair for Wines and Spirits in Dusseldorf, Germany last March. This year for the first time, these enthusiasts were able to taste the wines from one of the newer wine making regions of the world, Nova Scotia.

Wine making in Nova Scotia can be traced back to the 1600s, but the modern industry is only 38 years old. It began in 1978 when Roger Dial created Grand Pre Winery which today is Hanspeter Stutz’s Domaine de Grand Pre. In the same year, Hans Jost planted vines on the Malagash Peninsula which eventually became the Devonian Coast winery. The Winery Association of Nova Scotia was created in 2002.

Though still small by old world standards, Nova Scotia’s wine industry is growing aggressively. A press release from the Nova Scotia premier’s office of March 29, 2016 stated, “There are 23 wineries and 94 grape producers in Nova Scotia, and the industry accounts for $7.3 million in wages annually.” The province is determined to see the industry grow into an international player. It is putting money behind the words.

That press release announced the funding of a research lab at Acadia University in Wolfville, N.S. Mr. Ray Ivany, president and vice-chancellor of Acadia University explained the intended purpose of the project. “This new lab,” said Mr. Ivany “will allow us to contribute even more to the award-winning wine and agri-food industries in our region.”

In announcing the lab’s funding, Nova Scotia Premier Stephen McNeil hinted at the vision of the future of NS wines’ international markets when he said, “Nova Scotia’s wine industry has potential for tremendous growth that will lead to more jobs and more exports and our goal is to assist it where we can. It’s important to have quality lab services, especially as we look to the future of export.”

President Scott Brison of the Treasury Board of Canada has also indicated he’s got his eye on markets beyond Nova Scotia’s Atlantic coast when he said, “Canada is an emerging player in the global wine market. This investment [in the new lab] will support the wine industry in Atlantic Canada.”

As part of the same growth effort, Nova Scotia joined Canada’s other significant provincial wine producers, British Columbia and Ontario on the nation’s ProWein team. The Canadian participation in ProWein was organized by the government of Canada, the Canadian Vintners’ Association, the Wine Marketing Association of Ontario, the British Columbia Wine Institute, and the Winery Association of Nova Scotia (WANS).

Gillian Mainguy, manager of WANS was heavily involved in the selection of Nova Scotia’s representatives. “The efforts to include Nova Scotia came early in the [national] planning cycle,” Ms. Mainguy remembered. “I reached out to the member wineries of WANS to ask if anyone was interested in taking part in ProWein under the Wines of Canada brand…[We] ended up with two: Benjamin Bridge and Domaine de Grand Pré.

Benjamin Bridge Winery (BB) is located in the Gaspereau Valley. It is described at winesofnovascotia.ca as, Nova Scotia’s ultra premium sparkling wine house. Ashley McConnell-Gordon, Benjamin Bridge’s vice president explained the origin of the description. “Since 2000, we have been working with a leading team of international winemakers to produce world-class Méthode Classique sparkling wines. These innovative sparkling wines display the hallmarks of classic prestige cuvées from Champagne with a Nova Scotia signature.”

When told about the ProWein opportunity, Ms. Gordon saw a perfect match to BB’s vision of their future.

“We have an export plan for our winery,” Ms. Gordon explained. “that is focused on our traditional method sparklings, as well as select still wines, namely Nova 7. These products are already available across Canada and Japan and we anticipate the United Kingdom and other Asian markets in 2016.”

Nova Scotia’s other ProWein participant, Domaine de Grand Pre is now in the hands of Hanspeter Stutz, a Swiss business man who bought the estate in 1993. Hanspeter’s son Jurg studied grape growing and wine making at the highly respected Technische Hochschule in Waedenswil, Switzerland, where he graduated with a degree as an Oenologist. Domaine de Grand Pre is now producing wines from 100 percent Nova Scotia grown grapes that represent the Nova Scotia terroir, the combination of soil, climate, and other factors that make every corner of the earth its own unique place.

Nova Scotia’s climate is strongly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. Spring temperatures range from 1°C/34°F to 17°C/63°F; in summer from 14°C/57°F to 28°C/82°F; in autumn about 5°C/41°F to 20°C/68°F; and in winter about −9°C/16°F to 0°C/32°F.

The growing season in Nova Scotia ranges from 100 to 200 days, with a well-distributed pattern of high rainfall of about 900mm/35in a year inland, and over 1500mm/59in a year on the coast. Typically in Nova Scotia, there is 400-500mm/15-20in of precipitation distributed evenly during the growing season. This high precipitation also means a higher frequency of storms than anywhere else in Canada. Precipitation is slightly greater in late fall and early winter because of the more frequent and intense storm activity.

These conditions combine with Atlantic coastal breezes to produce the wines of the Nova Scotia terroir, often described as fresh, crisp, and bright. They are unique enough that in 2012, the region’s wine makers developed a signature wine that was given its own appellation, Tidal Bay. Tidal Bay is the first appellation assigned to Nova Scotia. The wine is an aromatic, cool climate, white wine. It is currently being produced by twelve wineries in Nova Scotia. While each is distinct from the others, all meet the Tidal Bay standards created by a team of wine makers, sommeliers, and wine experts, and each is watched closely through every step of the winemaking process to insure that it maintains the standards

Tidal Bay wines can be any combination of the approved grape varieties, but must demonstrate the distinctive taste profile that reflects the classic Nova Scotia style: lively fresh green fruit, dynamic acidity and characteristic minerality. Tidal Bay wines must also be relatively low in alcohol, no more than 11 percent.

Benjamin Bridges’ Ms. Gordon discussed the creation of the NS appellation. “Our lead wine consultant, Peter Gamble, conceived of the white wine appellation for Nova Scotia. The wineries of Nova Scotia believed that it would help elevate the region as a serious cool-climate wine producer to create a premier white wine that would embody the quintessential characteristics of Nova Scotia terroir. A Tidal Bay wine must be a still, white wine that is fresh, crisp, dryish with a bright aromatic component. There are a set of standards with permissible grape varieties, approved processing techniques, etc. A tasting panel assesses the wines blind each year.” 

WANS’s Ms. Mainguy added, “The winemakers of the Winery Association of Nova Scotia formally developed the premium white wine appellation from the 2010 vintage. 

“The development of the appellation involved the creation of strict new grape-growing and winemaking standards on a par with the world’s toughest, and the creation of an independent tasting panel to assess all wines wishing to use the ‘Tidal Bay’ designation. 

“Stylistically, the wine is a white with a bright ‘signature Nova Scotia’ aromatic component. The wines show vibrant, expressive fruit on the nose, and a refreshingly crisp palate. Nova Scotia’s very cool-climate maritime terroir is unrivaled in the world for making this type of wine.”

Hanspeter Stutz of Domaine de Grand Pre agrees. Mr. Stutz is justifiably proud of the Nova Scotia roots of his Tidal Bay wines that were selected White Wine of the Year for the 2010 Tidal Bay at the 2011 Atlantic Canadian Wine Awards, and awarded a gold medal for the 2011 Tidal Bay at the 2012 All Canadian Wine Championships. Mr. Stutz proclaimed, “we believe Nova Scotia should develop its own varieties, styles, and vineyard procedures that will thrive with our local soil and oceanic climate.”

Mr. Stutz saw the ProWein festival as an opportunity to bring to the world his message of the excellence of Nova Scotia’s wines. Referring to the festival, Mr. Stutz said, “this show was a great success for us…ProWein Germany brought us into contact with some very interesting people around the world…Canada wines are definitely on the world’s radar screen…A lot of visitors and professionals were surprised at the high quality of Canadian wine…I am sure this will be the start of a healthy export market. Our special terroir for white and sparkling wines came up many times…I was impressed with the responses to our Riesling and Tidal Bay.”

Last December, the province announced the goal of reaching 1,000 acres of vines by 2020 up from the current 632. Way back in 1986, Nova Scotia’s wine pioneer Roger Dial speculated that it would take 3,000 to 5,000 acres of vines to secure Nova Scotia’s place among the world’s wine producing regions. The pioneer’s original vision appears to have been a bit clouded. As witnessed at ProWein, Nova Scotia’s wine makers have made their mark by relying not on quantity, but quality.

By Neal Johnston

Mexico appears on the horizon as one of the most important and relevant wine producing regions of the Americas, or countries of the New World. A fascinating example, Mexico has a rich and wonderful history. The ‘Rio Grande’ separates the USA and Mexico all the way to the Gulf. Immediately west of El Paso the boarder runs more or less in a straight line from east to west where it reaches the Pacific coast of San Diego. Some two thousand miles from Mexico’s northern border with Guatemala.

In past times Missionaries went to extraordinary lengths to carry their first discovered grapevines accompanied by ‘conquistadores’, or conquerors in a determined effort to reach Mexico. This was done over four hundred years ago. The present day wine industry in Mexico is around sixty years old. There has always been an underlying bone of contention between Mexico and Spain which has caused something of a hidden rivalry with bitter undertones. Their has of course been a degree of speculation throughout history as to why relations between the two countries have been frayed for so long. The Spaniards maintained a deeply rooted rivalry in view of a Mexican advance towards the growth and cultivation of some of the earliest discovered vines of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Spain in many ways felt the spark of jealousy as their wine industry forbade the planting of vines. While Mexico continued to make headway over Spain, the rivalry grew. Over the course of time and on down through the centuries there has been a certain amount of leeway given to the notion of dispersing such division and angst, amid a continuing advancement on the procurement and growth of wine and winemaking throughout much of Mexico in particular.

Mexico gained its independence in the latter part of the nineteenth century. By this stage the country had begun to move in with the times, and in the midst of a post-industrial climate, Mexico steadily began to grow more notably in stature and strength from independence. This was understandably liberating and good for Mexico, but deeply frustrating for the Spanish. The continuing change and progression of ideas stirred a sense of optimism as well as the imagination, and taste buds of many aspiring grape farmers across Mexico. It was at round this time that the first two wineries were built. ‘The Bodegas Ferrino’, at Cuatro Cieneges in Coahuila, and the ‘Bodegas de Santo’, in Baja California, both of which encouraged and sustained the tradition of growing two grape varieties in particular. The Criolla, and Mission grape traditions.

Further development came Mexico’s way when at the close of the nineteenth century. James Concannon, a Californian, successfully spearheaded a campaign which encouraged the President of Mexico at that time, Profiro Diaz, to take divisive action towards improving viticulture. The aim of the initiative was to show that it was indeed possible to develop Mexican wines to a much better commercial standard than was thought previously, by adopting and using specific v. vinfera- vines imported from Livermore, California. This realisation and striking piece of ingenuity led to the formation and immediate importing of several million individual handmade cuttings. These cuttings were then garnered and planted broadly throughout Mexico’s landscape. In anticipation of the two grape varieties imminent arrival, the next move was to ensure that at least one Bodega would be established in every state.

Unfortunately for Mexico this early, spirited, and challenging attempt at grapevine cultivation was overshadowed and oppressed by the inevitable turmoil that came with the upheaval, destruction and loss of life and land that ensued during the troubled and turbulent times of the Mexican revolution. A revolution which began in earnest in1910, and lasted a further ten years.

In the aftermath of the revolution Mexico’s vineyards were still very much regarded as being in a state of decline, and needing plenty of attention in order to come back more readily to fruition. A further, even greater concerted effort was brought underway by the ‘Association Nacional de Vitivinicultores’. In 1929 it was suggested that the destructive nature of warfare during the period of revolution caused Mexico to lose much of its viticulture history. A great number of fresh newly planted and carefully cared for vineyards now lay ravaged, ruined, and torn by the effects of warfare. For Mexico the established identity of grape cultivation had been all but severed and lost. Or so it would have seemed. The next step must have seemed like a mountain to climb for Mexico. To miraculously resurrect and negotiate a determined plan of action to reinvigorate growth was the way forward, and ultimately this is what led Mexico into the modern era. The dawn and birth of the very youngest wine industry in the Americas. Mexico’s wine industry was in its genesis stage.

Vineyards were developed in certain designated areas. Saltillo, Mexico City, Aguascalientes, Coahuila, Durango and Chihuahua. The Mexican Government gave an enormous stimulus boost to its wine industry at the end of the second world war. By raising duties and enforcing quota restrictions on imported wines, this meant that the prices of US, French and Spanish wines rose to five times that of Mexican wine. As a result of government intervention the reactivation of vineyards flourished to unprecedented new heights. Coming out of the cold, and a troubled past, the determination and sheer willpower of Mexico has shone through as a leading example. In essence they overcame a period of great adversity. Mexico has gained the respect it deserves and can be understood throughout the world wine map of today as an exemplary blueprint for hard work, grit and above all, determination. It is a symbol for for all of these.

Plotted acreages of vineyards subsequently catapulted from 4,000 to 175,000 acres over time, and these are still alive and growing in numbers today. The steadfast approach gives a superb real sense of time and place, and adds real flavour, character and zeal to the evolution of vines in Mexico.

Getting the Label Right

When we purchase a bottle of red, white, or rose hot of the shelf in supermarkets today the same sense of history can and should be applied to each and every label of every bottle. Giving not only its full contents description, but also in bringing us up to date historically of its greater significance. More attention to detail like this can surely catch the eye of the more discerning consumer amongst us. As well through word of mouth, the influence and measure of Mexico’s historical influence on the development of wines of the new world will surely catch on now even more. A developing wine country in many respects. If I was in charge of labelling all of Mexico’s wine I would make sure as a top priority that there was a well written indication on each label of the evocative heroism and strong work ethic of Mexico as not only a developing nation but as a surviving one too, and how this might bring us up to the present day. It is precisely this type of true to life, vivid background story that is so very appropriately befitting to Mexico. This is what makes Mexico’s wine so special, appealing, and unique. It is simply bursting with history and flavour. By law, and in this day and age, Mexico’s vineyards are denied single ownership. Their next best alternative is combined dual ownership between two families.

Further away form the east and west coasts we find the heartland of Mexican wine country today. The arid climate is more favourable here, weather conditions are temperate and generally good. The North western border of Mexico lies at an latitude of thirty two degrees North facing. This means that for the whole of Mexico, its landscape is situated within the hot sub-equatorial region. This can in more normal conditions be detrimental to producing good, healthy, successful vines. Mexico’s central plateau is on average some 1,500 metres above sea level. For every 300 metres of elevation there is a drop of 1.7 degrees Celcius in temperature. The altitude of the plateau therefore compensates nicely for an unfavourable latitude.

The days in fall see especially good growth take shape or Mexican grapes. While the days may be shorter and nearer to the equator, the drop in night time temperatures can be quite dramatic, and this presents the threat and danger of frost damage. These conditions can fluctuate and become erratic.

An unpredictability factor like this links into the greater looming effect and threat of climate change in the twenty first century, and indeed beyond that. Rainfall on the whole is not very consistent in Mexico. This means that some of their grapes will need more attention to detail than others in the form of irrigation from a further reduction in water supplies. Conversely, some areas can become overwhelmed by the heavy rainfall and even flooded out completely during the growing season. Interestingly around 90% of Mexico’s grapes are used for brandy production as the range of climate is generally suitable for this. They are also famous for their Tequila. There are primarily eight individual regions of vineyards throughout Mexico today. From north to south these are- Baja California, Hermosillo-Caborca, on the Sonora river. Delicias in Chihuahua. Laguna and Torreon on the border of Coahuila and Durango. Parras and Saltillo in Coahuila. The Fresnillo-Ojocaliente region in Zacatecas. Aguascalientes, and the San Juan de Rio, located north of Mexico City.

During the 1980’s there was a notable period of resurgence for winemaking in Mexico when production reached an output level of four million cases per year. The comparatively smaller scale of production to that of other wine producing countries meant that Mexico experienced something of a setback in profits. Baja, California is well known for producing ninety per cent of Mexican wine sells, and distributes one and a half million barrels per year today. The quality is different here and it is thought of as a considerably improved all rounder. A much better drink in the glass than many previous efforts.

Opinion on Mexico is divided, with some down grading the system, believing that the lower level production line is detrimental to their greater success. To compete on the world stage today, you need to be adept and quick thinking to follow and embrace change and to become more scientifically aware of these changes. Changes in technology for instance, never mind keeping up with changes in our global weather systems. Recent speculation suggests the ‘Valley of Guadalupe’, in Mexico to be the next big region, with comparisons in some quarters of the industry to that of the famous Napa Valley Region. Mexico is a developing wine country. What sets it apart in my opinion is the legacy of truly rich and romantic beginnings. It is set apart as a surviving wine country, having battled its way through upheaval and revolution and still coming through as strong. Today Mexico’s wine exports reach a total of thirty eight countries world wide, and many of their finest vintages have received the high standing accolade of international award.

Taxation at forty per cent per bottle makes it quite hard for wine to face up to the competition of beer and tequila for Mexico. The good news is that Mexicans are enjoying their wine more now than ever before. Their taste is steadily growing. More often than not imports on wine make their way into the Mexican market via countries like Chile, Australia and New Zealand. There is a lot to be said for not only supporting, but having faith in the underdog.

By April Ingram

Real Canadian Superstore South Surrey announces B.C. wine sales beginning today. (CNW Group/Loblaw Companies Limited)

A ‘Foreign’ Concept Hitting British Columbia Supermarkets

With changes to recent laws in some provinces, Canadians can now find local wines on their grocery store shelves. This is a relatively new concept for the country, although very common in other parts of the world. In fact, a recent report found that in the United States up to 70% of all wine is sold in grocery stores. In the beginning, the change in British Columbia (BC) legislation seemed like a sweet deal for grocers to share in profits generated by alcohol sales, for consumers to enjoy the convenience of one-stop shopping, and for Canadian wine producers to reach more of these consumers. However, once the confetti settled and all the rules and restrictions became apparent, many were left scratching their heads.

Although the actual policy changes, set by the BC government’s Liquor Control and Licensing Branch, went into effect on April 1, 2015, change has been slow due to the complexity and challenges of adhering to the rules. In addition to the change in provincial laws, each municipality also has restrictions, so sorting it all out can be tricky. The Vancouver city council voted 9-1 to ban grocers from selling wine, despite some grocery stores in the city moving ahead with store renovations to accommodate the new market. As of June 2017, there were still only 21 BC grocery stores with wine for sale on their shelves.

The most significant changes in the sales policy have to do with the required distance between stores, what type of stores could sell what kind of alcoholic beverages, and retailers getting their hands on the particular type of license required. These licenses restrict sales to exclusively BC wine that meets the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) standards. The BC VQA program is an “appellation of origin” system, similar to the AOC and DOC systems in France and Italy. The system guarantees the origin of the grapes and ensures that qualifying wines meet certain minimum quality requirements. The VQA wines are more expensive than many other foreign and domestic wines.

Limited Licenses

With only approximately 60 licenses available province-wide, the process is highly competitive, and grocers are using multiple approaches to get needed licenses.

Overwaitea is a large grocery chain, and their strategy has been to sign operating agreements with the BC Wine Institute, which owns 21 licenses that allow for sales of only 100% BC wine. Loblaw’s, the parent company of Real Canadian Superstore has been buying some of the provincial government’s 24 licenses, previously considered ‘dormant’ at provincial auctions.

Stores must meet specific criteria to bid on licenses. They must be at least 929 square meters (10,000 square feet) in size, not currently licensed to sell liquor, be more than one kilometer (0.62 miles) from a privately-owned liquor store, and have the accompanying deposit of $25,000. The government has stated that the rules and restrictions are in place to protect the financial viability of private liquor stores. Although the deposit doesn’t sound unrealistic for a large corporation, competition has driven the prices from the minimum bid of $125,000 to a whopping $6.9 million paid by Loblaw’s to buy its first six licenses in April and May 2016.

A Wine Shop Experience, with a Catch

The wine isn’t just appearing on store shelves, next to the crackers and soda. Stores are undergoing extensive reconfiguring and renovations to create a wine shop experience within the supermarket. Transformed from typical store aisles into inviting spaces with hardwood-looking floors, softer lighting and inviting displays, most are right in the center of the market, carry approximately 400 varieties of BC wine, and keeping wine experts on hand to providing tastings, recommendations and food pairing inspiration. Some locations invite local winery representatives and wine makers to come in and have pouring events.

The current legislation does make for some strange situations between wine producers and stores. If a winery representative wants to stage a tasting event at a grocery store, they cannot bring in bottles direct from the winery – as is permitted at non-grocery BC VQA wine markets – they must purchase the bottles at retail price from the store, a substantial markup that includes tax. The government has noted that they plan to look into these types of situations and see if more standardization of practices and pricing would level the playing field.

Underage Concerns

Initially, there were fears that wine on grocery shelves would lead to easier access for underage buyers. Stores within the Overwaitea group have put safeguards in place to prevent minors from walking out with a bottle. They have tight security and ever-present cameras in place and to their knowledge, having sold more than one million bottles out of 13 stores thus far, not a single theft has occurred. Store cashiers have to be at least 19 years of age, with their system login including a confirmation of age. If an underage employee attempts to scan a bottle of Pinot Gris for a high school friend, the scanner will fail, and the system requests manager approval. Standard practice for stores is to ask for two pieces of ID from any customer who looks younger than 40. These grocery stores already carry cigarettes and have pharmacies within their locations, and have systems in place to ensure that controlled substances don’t end up in the wrong hands.

Local Exposure

There are currently over 250 wineries in BC, so one could expect store shelves to be brimming with local options. The original intention for supermarkets only carrying locally produced wine was to showcase what was made nearby, however small and medium-sized wine producers have concerns. According to the group BC Alliance for Smart Liquor Retail Choices, with the licenses being snatched up by large chains, the concern is that most of the wine orders will be filled by a handful of big wineries with more extensive inventory and lower price points, leaving smaller producers on the sidelines. Not all small producers agree, however, and some have had excellent experiences with grocery managers reaching out to smaller wineries to invite product and event participation. Some smaller producers have made direct contact with the local managers to get their product in stores. The new law provides an excellent opportunity for small wineries that aren’t on shelves in government or private liquor stores and rely mainly on onsite winery sales.
International Concerns

Although the exposure of local wines to consumers was intended to be a tremendous opportunity, particularly for smaller producers, not everyone is happy about the change in the laws. Many of Canada’s trading partners believe the practice to be discriminatory. This past January, the United States launched trade-enforcement action against Canada at the World Trade Organization (WTO), and New Zealand and the European Union were quick to announce that they will join the action. Shortly after, Argentina and Australia also followed suit. Consumers also thought that the exclusivity was a bit strange, noting that if a retailer is going to sell wine, then sell a selection of all types of wine and let the customers choose what they want.

The local industry fears that if the international trade challenges succeed, then BC wine, which only has 17% of market share, will be displaced on the shelves by higher-volume, lower-priced products. What first appeared to be a promising prospect for both BC wineries and grocery stores, may now be a limited offering. If upheld, the trade challenge will require adding imported wines to Canadian grocery stores, or the government will abandon the initiative altogether.

The government continues to make attempts to modernize legislation around alcohol sales and support the local wine industry, an overall boon for the provincial economy. According to the BC Wine Institute, the BC wine and grape industry contributed $2.8 billion to the economy in 2015. Legislative adjustments continue to address current challenges, and recent changes are relaxing liquor laws, allowing any business that doesn’t serve children to apply for licenses, such as barbers, bookstores and art galleries.